EP0442226A1 - Kettengewirk mit gewebtem Aspekt und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung - Google Patents

Kettengewirk mit gewebtem Aspekt und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0442226A1
EP0442226A1 EP90400406A EP90400406A EP0442226A1 EP 0442226 A1 EP0442226 A1 EP 0442226A1 EP 90400406 A EP90400406 A EP 90400406A EP 90400406 A EP90400406 A EP 90400406A EP 0442226 A1 EP0442226 A1 EP 0442226A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
loop
thread
yarn
polyester
knit
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP90400406A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Luc Watisse
Christian Plaskowski
Jean-Francois Forest
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Le Textile Delcer SA
Original Assignee
Le Textile Delcer SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Le Textile Delcer SA filed Critical Le Textile Delcer SA
Publication of EP0442226A1 publication Critical patent/EP0442226A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to knitted fabrics knitted also called "chain” knits, for which the stitches formed by the same thread do not belong to the same row. It relates more particularly to chain knitwear presenting a thread having a loop effect on the right side.
  • Jetées knitted fabrics are made either on so-called “chain” looms or on so-called “Rachel” looms.
  • the present invention relates to knits obtained on warp looms.
  • the loop-forming yarn makes it possible to modify the visual appearance of the knitting, in proportions which are a function of the yarn constituting the effect, the method of binding retained, etc.
  • a warp knit which, on the right side, has the appearance of a woven fabric, that is to say which has a very raised slightly marked, similar to that of an interlacing of warp and weft threads.
  • knitting chain presents on the right side a thread forming a loop effect.
  • the loop forming yarn is a textured yarn whose titration is between 40 and 80 dtex, knitted with a high density of stitches; the length of the absorbed wire for the loop forming wire is greater than that which the same wire would have without loop formation by 25 to 40%; the loops are flattened and at least partially hide the mesh columns.
  • the loops formed by the textured effect yarn are dense, regular and of reduced height; due to the fact that they are flattened and that they at least partially hide the columns of mesh, the juxtaposition of these flattened loops creates the desired visual effect of the woven fabric.
  • the fabric of the invention has the properties of stretch and comfort of knitting, and the appearance of a fabric.
  • the high mesh density of the loop forming wire is variable depending on its titration. It is for example from 26 to 30 stitches / cm for a 50 dtex thread; it is 19 to 22 stitches / cm for a 76 dtex thread.
  • the loop forming yarn is a polyester textured yarn 54 dtex 40 strands, with a density of 28 meshes / cm and a rack greenhouse of the order of 3100 mm; this greenhouse being approximately one third higher than that of the same wire without loop formation.
  • the knitting according to the invention can have different weaves.
  • the digital representation of this weave, relative to the loop-forming thread is as follows: where x is 2.3 or 4 and y is x + 1.
  • the warp knit is a double-sided knit, comprising three threads: the first place side achieves the loop effect, the second side rear realizes the reverse side of the knitting and the third constitutes the background thread; the first and third threads are made of the same material made of continuous threads, for example polyester, while the second thread is made of the same or another material made of yarns of fibers, for example cotton.
  • the thread or threads constituting the reverse side comprise fibers visible on the outer surface of the knitted fabric.
  • the invention consists in making a knitted fabric on the warp side on a warp knitting effect, the thread forming the loop being a textured thread whose titration is between 40 and 80 dtex, the looping effect being obtained by overfeeding said thread by 25 to 40%, and the loop forming yarn being knitted with a high density of stitches, to reveal the bulging of the loops by stirring the knitted fabric in a humid environment and then flattening the loops by applying pressure.
  • the overfeeding of the wire forming the loop is obtained by an appropriate adjustment of the members for forming the mesh.
  • it is obtained by an abnormal adjustment of the positioning of the plate relative to the needle during the cycle of formation of the mesh, with, in consideration of the optimal adjustment for a flat knitting, an increased depth of felling and a picking decreases .
  • the felling depth will be increased by a third compared to the normal setting, the picking reduced by 40 to 50%; the loop bar of the loop thread will be adjusted with respect to the needles so that the head of the needle is aligned with the upper part of the eyelet of the passette, an adjustment which is usually translated by a person skilled in the art by 1 eye.
  • the bulging of the loops is revealed, in particular when dyeing the knitting on a closed circulation equipment of the jet type. Then the loops are flattened, in particular by calendering the knitting between two cylinders, one of which, corresponding to the right side, has a grooved engraving, the grooves of which are related to the knitting mesh.
  • the process may include a mechanical finishing of scraping or scraping the reverse side of the knitted fabric.
  • the settings of the warp loom were modified under the following conditions.
  • the felling depth (h) is defined by the distance between the top 1 of the hook 2 of the needle 3 during felling and the bottom 4 of the groove 5 of the plate 6. In the adjustment normal recommended by the manufacturer, the felling depth is around 1.5 mm; in the setting of the invention, it is of the order of 2 mm.
  • picking is defined as the distance (c) between the back of the needle 3 when picking and the bottom 7 of the groove 5. In the normal setting, picking is of the order of 1.5 1.8 mm; in the setting of the invention, it is of the order of 0.9 to 1 mm.
  • the knitting is done on a three bar warp.
  • the digital representation of the armor is as follows:
  • the yarn from bar I is the yarn producing the loop side effect (mesh side).
  • the yarn from bar II is the bridle thread, constituting the back of the knitted fabric.
  • the bar wire III is the bottom wire.
  • the yarns of bars I and III are textured yarns of polyester 54 dtex 40 strands
  • the yarns of bar II are yarns of cotton or polyester.
  • the adjustment of the three guide bars with respect to the needles, during their intersection, is shown in FIG. 3.
  • the bar I has an adjustment with one eye, that is to say that the apex 1 of the hook 2 of the needle 3 is aligned with the upper edge 8 of the eyelet 9 of the passette 10.
  • the bars II and III have an adjustment of a half-eye, that is to say that the apex 1 of the hook 2 of the needle 3 is approximately centered relative to the eyelet 9 of the passette 10.
  • the greenhouse in the rack is 3100 mm.
  • the mesh density for the looped yarn is 28 mesh / cm.
  • the warp knit obtained, dropped from the trade, under the conditions which have just been described, is then dyed according to a conventional procedure and without pretreatment, but in a material of the jet type.
  • the knitting is propelled in a closed circuit in the dye bath; it undergoes strong agitation in a humid environment which has the effect of developing the texturing of the loop-forming thread, of revealing the bulk of the effect obtained.
  • the curls are, due to the agitation during the dyeing, oriented in all directions.
  • the knitted fabric is calendered using two cylinders, one of which is in contact with the place of the knitting, is in fluted steel: engraving 10/45, with 10 oblique lines / mm at an angle of 45 °.
  • the calendering temperature is from 160 ° C to 170 ° C; the pressure exerted is 50 to 60 tonnes; calendering speed of 10m / min. Calendering has the effect of flattening the loops, regularizing the surface appearance and giving shine to the knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric undergoes a fixing treatment by impregnation in a scarf of an elastomer solution or of silicone products, for example ELASTOFIX® at 40 g / l, before being dried.
  • a fixing treatment by impregnation in a scarf of an elastomer solution or of silicone products, for example ELASTOFIX® at 40 g / l, before being dried.
  • the warp knit obtained is a double-sided knit, the reverse side being in cotton or polyester and the right side in polyester.
  • the right side has the visual appearance of a woven fabric.
  • We have produced a range of knits of this type making between 160 and 260 g / m2, for example a polyester / cotton 75/25 of 200 g / m2, with on the first bar a textured polyester yarn 54 dtex 40 strands, whose breaking strength was of the order of 35 cN / tex, the elongation at break of the order of 24%, the crimping of the order of 40% and having a shrinkage at 200 ° C of the order of 7%.
  • the invention is not limited to the example which has just been described, but covers all its variants.
  • the armor given above can be modified, in particular for the wire of the bar I it can be for example the following:

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP90400406A 1988-09-27 1990-02-14 Kettengewirk mit gewebtem Aspekt und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung Withdrawn EP0442226A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8813058A FR2636982B1 (fr) 1988-09-27 1988-09-27 Tricot chaine a aspect tisse et son procede de fabrication

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0442226A1 true EP0442226A1 (de) 1991-08-21

Family

ID=9370719

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP90400406A Withdrawn EP0442226A1 (de) 1988-09-27 1990-02-14 Kettengewirk mit gewebtem Aspekt und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0442226A1 (de)
FR (1) FR2636982B1 (de)

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1121573A (en) * 1965-10-24 1968-07-31 Stevens & Co Inc J P Knitted fabric and method for making the same
GB1162985A (en) * 1965-09-11 1969-09-04 Magnus & Co As Process for Producing Knitted Articles
GB1172502A (en) * 1965-12-15 1969-12-03 Rokana Textilwerz Ges Mit Besc Method for the Manufacture of a Knitted Fabric Web
US3861175A (en) * 1973-06-11 1975-01-21 Du Pont Process for knitting two-bar fabrics from three warp thread sets
EP0111409A1 (de) * 1982-12-03 1984-06-20 Guilford Kapwood Limited Kaschmirimitation und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB1162985A (en) * 1965-09-11 1969-09-04 Magnus & Co As Process for Producing Knitted Articles
GB1121573A (en) * 1965-10-24 1968-07-31 Stevens & Co Inc J P Knitted fabric and method for making the same
GB1172502A (en) * 1965-12-15 1969-12-03 Rokana Textilwerz Ges Mit Besc Method for the Manufacture of a Knitted Fabric Web
US3861175A (en) * 1973-06-11 1975-01-21 Du Pont Process for knitting two-bar fabrics from three warp thread sets
EP0111409A1 (de) * 1982-12-03 1984-06-20 Guilford Kapwood Limited Kaschmirimitation und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2636982A1 (fr) 1990-03-30
FR2636982B1 (fr) 1990-12-28

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