EP0477525A1 - Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation - Google Patents

Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0477525A1
EP0477525A1 EP91113730A EP91113730A EP0477525A1 EP 0477525 A1 EP0477525 A1 EP 0477525A1 EP 91113730 A EP91113730 A EP 91113730A EP 91113730 A EP91113730 A EP 91113730A EP 0477525 A1 EP0477525 A1 EP 0477525A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
thread
soluble
elastic
embroidery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP91113730A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0477525B1 (fr
Inventor
Richard Dipl.-Ing. Klaus
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Original Assignee
GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH filed Critical GVW Garnveredlungswerke GmbH
Publication of EP0477525A1 publication Critical patent/EP0477525A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0477525B1 publication Critical patent/EP0477525B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/322Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using hollow spindles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/024Moisture-responsive characteristics soluble

Definitions

  • the invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination embroidery threads based on practically undrawn, highly elastic core filament threads (e.g. based on elastane), wound with an inner enveloping thread made of soluble threads (e.g. PVA hot water soluble) and an outer covering thread made of textile threads or threads (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns made of eg viscose, polyamides or polyesters).
  • highly elastic core filament threads e.g. based on elastane
  • an inner enveloping thread made of soluble threads (e.g. PVA hot water soluble)
  • an outer covering thread made of textile threads or threads (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns made of eg viscose, polyamides or polyesters).
  • Such a temporarily inelastic combination thread is used as embroidery thread for embroidery application (ornaments / patterns) on elastic base fabrics / knitted fabrics with subsequent removal of the soluble inner sheath thread (e.g. PVA) with the release of a certain elastic mobility of the embroidery thread, which after this removal (e.g. in aqueous finishing process) has such a stretch that the embroidery applications can follow the elastic strains of the base fabric / knitted fabric.
  • the soluble inner sheath thread e.g. PVA
  • Elastans or rubber threads are often incorporated to produce elastic textiles. In the case of knitwear, it is technically possible to process these yarns naked. In other techniques such as Weaving, their elasticity must be limited in order to process these elastic threads.
  • combination yarns are made that consist of the elastic core and one or more envelope yarn components. Such combination yarns are preferably produced by placing the sheath threads in turns around the pre-stretched elastane thread. Wrapping machines with hollow spindle devices are used here. One or two-stage wrapping yarns with different properties can be produced.
  • the elastic extensibility desired in textile fabrics is produced by keeping the elastic thread under high elongation (100 to 600% elongation) during the winding process. The elasticity is triggered by a recess or shrinking process after the fabric has been manufactured.
  • the elastic thread core e.g. elastane filament thread
  • the desired elastic extensibility of the articles produced therefrom is predominantly achieved by the elastic recess process in the fabric.
  • the combination thread jumps in only by the amount of its substance shrinkage (substance loss) (possibly including substance shrinkage of the other two components).
  • This substance shrinkage should preferably be ⁇ 10%, but in no case should it be> 20%.
  • the elastic total extensibility starting from the test length reached by the material shrinkage to the unclamped state, can be set between 0.1 and approx. 100% depending on the number of turns of the outer and inner turns and the volume of the inner turn that has become free. However, it may be sufficient or advantageous to limit the elastic elongation to 10 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%.
  • core threads As highly elastic core threads (core threads) (A), highly elastic threads with elastic elongations> 250%, e.g. based on segmented copolyesters, segmented copolyester ethers or preferably segmented polyurethanes or polyurethane ureas (elastanes) are used. Their titer is approximately 10 to 160 dtex, preferably 20 to 80 dtex.
  • Soluble filaments or yarns preferably hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads or threads soluble in alcohols, ketones, esters or hydrocarbons made of e.g. Modacrylene or the like used.
  • water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads are preferred, which can be dissolved out in the aqueous finishing baths.
  • Their titers are from about 50 to 300 dtex, preferably from about 100 to 300 dtex.
  • the outer, non-soluble textile sheath thread (C) are threads (including yarns) made of, for example, polyamides, polyesters, cellulose, preferably viscose and polyamides. Their titers are from 10 to 200 dtex, preferably from 50 to 200 dtex.
  • the combination embroidery thread according to the invention is produced as follows: (see FIG. 1).
  • the elastic core thread (A) is fed into the process of a crosswise (2-stage) winding with virtually no stretching. Either the thread is fed in a rolling manner (item 1) or the thread is pulled off the bobbin overhead without any additional stretching set (item 1 ').
  • the total stretch of the elastic thread in the hollow spindle should be ⁇ 10% and should only be given by the inevitable thread pull tension from the bobbin.
  • the disc reel 2 On the first hollow spindle, the disc reel 2 is seated with the Vonat of soluble yarn (B), which is the first sheath component to be wound in an S-turn around the elastic core.
  • the number of turns to be applied can be from 300 to 2,000 turns / m. With the height of this number of turns, the extensibility to be achieved after removing this component can be influenced.
  • the titer of this soluble component is said to be many times coarser than the titer of the elastic soul. The titer is preferably more than three times greater.
  • This winding thread of the first stage passes through a second hollow spindle with the disc bobbin 3, which carries the supply of the textile covering thread (C).
  • the second hollow spindle runs in Z-rotation and thus in the opposite direction to the first winding stage.
  • the combination yarn is made essentially twist-neutral and, in addition, the extensibility of the combination yarn after the soluble component has been removed is influenced even more than in the first stage. It applies here that the extensibility to be achieved increases with an increasing number of turns.
  • the 3-component yarn (D) is drawn off from the delivery unit 4, which determines the throughput speed of the yarn through both hollow spindles.
  • the necessary number of turns in both stages are regulated via appropriate spindle speeds.
  • the 3-component yarn is fed to take-up point 5 and wound into a finished bobbin.
  • the gloss can be largely obtained if the enveloping yarn has previously been twisted in a separate process against the direction of winding to be applied.
  • the yarns according to the invention can be used for applications on elastic basic goods (elastic spout / woven goods, e.g. for corsetry). While embroidery applications made of conventional inelastic embroidery threads permanently and disruptively blocked the elastic extensibility of the base in the expansion area of the application, it is possible with the temporarily inelastic embroidery threads according to the invention to produce completely new types of embroidery goods which can also be stretched elastically in the area of the embroidery pattern. They are used in embroidery designs on elastic corsetry or elastic textiles.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Automatic Embroidering For Embroidered Or Tufted Products (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
EP91113730A 1990-08-29 1991-08-16 Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation Expired - Lifetime EP0477525B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4027279A DE4027279A1 (de) 1990-08-29 1990-08-29 Temporaer unelastische kombinations-stickgarne, verfahren zu ihrer herstellung und ihre verwendung
DE4027279 1990-08-29

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0477525A1 true EP0477525A1 (fr) 1992-04-01
EP0477525B1 EP0477525B1 (fr) 1994-10-19

Family

ID=6413132

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP91113730A Expired - Lifetime EP0477525B1 (fr) 1990-08-29 1991-08-16 Fil à broder temporairement non élastique, procédé pour sa fabrication et son utilisation

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0477525B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE113082T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE4027279A1 (fr)

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002012602A1 (fr) * 2000-08-10 2002-02-14 Dollfus Mieg & Cie - Dmc Fil a ame centrale et utilisation de ce fil
EP1245706A1 (fr) * 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Procédé de fabrication de tissu en laine très fine avec un fil simple dans la chaine ayant propriétés de tissage ameliorées
FR2829510A1 (fr) * 2001-09-13 2003-03-14 Dim Sa Fil bi-composant et article a couture utilisant ce fil
WO2005056896A1 (fr) * 2003-12-03 2005-06-23 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Fils composites encolles et leur procede de production
US20130017747A1 (en) * 2011-07-15 2013-01-17 Tamicare Ltd. Method and apparatus to temporarily restrain stretchable non-woven fabric
CN103255527A (zh) * 2013-05-23 2013-08-21 南通双弘纺织有限公司 一种超柔高导湿聚酯纱线的纺纱方法
CN103938321A (zh) * 2014-05-04 2014-07-23 苏州市叶绣工艺厂 一种刺绣用高性能染色绣花线
EP3626873A1 (fr) * 2018-09-20 2020-03-25 Kam Cheung Koo Fil extensible creux
CN113463249A (zh) * 2021-08-05 2021-10-01 丹阳市丹盛纺织有限公司 一种高弹丝不加捻交织面料及加工工艺方法

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19755788C2 (de) * 1997-12-16 2001-11-29 Titv Greiz Verfahren zur Herstellung elastischer Luftspitzenerzeugnisse
AT411365B (de) * 2002-03-07 2003-12-29 Wolford Ag Hochelastisches gestrick
DE102013107660A1 (de) * 2013-07-18 2015-01-22 Ofa Bamberg Gmbh Elastischer Faden mit Wollfäden als Bestandteil der Umwindung

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3492707A (en) * 1967-02-16 1970-02-03 Kuraray Co Method of producing elastic fabrics
FR2631636A1 (fr) * 1988-05-20 1989-11-24 Verel De Belval Tissages Fil complexe comportant une ame de fil elastique assemblee a des fils ou files de fibres et son procede de fabrication

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3492707A (en) * 1967-02-16 1970-02-03 Kuraray Co Method of producing elastic fabrics
FR2631636A1 (fr) * 1988-05-20 1989-11-24 Verel De Belval Tissages Fil complexe comportant une ame de fil elastique assemblee a des fils ou files de fibres et son procede de fabrication

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 14, no. 143 (C-703)(4086) 19. März 1990 & JP-A-2 014 061 ( CHUETSU LACE KOGYO K.K. ) 18. Januar 1990 *
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 14, no. 180 (C-708)(4123) 11. April 1990 & JP-A-2 026 945 ( TORAY IND INC ) 29. Januar 1990 *

Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002012602A1 (fr) * 2000-08-10 2002-02-14 Dollfus Mieg & Cie - Dmc Fil a ame centrale et utilisation de ce fil
EP1245706A1 (fr) * 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Procédé de fabrication de tissu en laine très fine avec un fil simple dans la chaine ayant propriétés de tissage ameliorées
WO2002077357A3 (fr) * 2001-03-26 2003-01-23 Polgat Textiles Co 1960 Ltd Nouveau procede de production d'un tissu de laine a tissage ultrafin avec un seul fil dans la chaine presentant une meilleure tissabilite
US6823569B2 (en) * 2001-03-26 2004-11-30 Polgat Textiles Co. Process for the manufacture of super fine woven wool fabric with single yarn in the warp having improved weavability
FR2829510A1 (fr) * 2001-09-13 2003-03-14 Dim Sa Fil bi-composant et article a couture utilisant ce fil
AU2004297554B2 (en) * 2003-12-03 2010-09-16 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Size-covered composite yarns and method for making same
WO2005056896A1 (fr) * 2003-12-03 2005-06-23 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Fils composites encolles et leur procede de production
US20130017747A1 (en) * 2011-07-15 2013-01-17 Tamicare Ltd. Method and apparatus to temporarily restrain stretchable non-woven fabric
US9517165B2 (en) * 2011-07-15 2016-12-13 Tamicare Ltd. Method and apparatus to temporarily restrain stretchable non-woven fabric
CN103255527A (zh) * 2013-05-23 2013-08-21 南通双弘纺织有限公司 一种超柔高导湿聚酯纱线的纺纱方法
CN103938321A (zh) * 2014-05-04 2014-07-23 苏州市叶绣工艺厂 一种刺绣用高性能染色绣花线
EP3626873A1 (fr) * 2018-09-20 2020-03-25 Kam Cheung Koo Fil extensible creux
CN113463249A (zh) * 2021-08-05 2021-10-01 丹阳市丹盛纺织有限公司 一种高弹丝不加捻交织面料及加工工艺方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE4027279A1 (de) 1992-03-05
DE59103278D1 (de) 1994-11-24
EP0477525B1 (fr) 1994-10-19
ATE113082T1 (de) 1994-11-15

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