EP1052962A1 - Emulsions huile/eau cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a teneur lipidique reduite - Google Patents

Emulsions huile/eau cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a teneur lipidique reduite

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Publication number
EP1052962A1
EP1052962A1 EP99908833A EP99908833A EP1052962A1 EP 1052962 A1 EP1052962 A1 EP 1052962A1 EP 99908833 A EP99908833 A EP 99908833A EP 99908833 A EP99908833 A EP 99908833A EP 1052962 A1 EP1052962 A1 EP 1052962A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
preparations
cosmetic
saturated
fatty acids
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP99908833A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gunhild Hamer
Kerstin Heike
Waltraud Kaden
Rainer Kröpke
Ghita LANZENDÖRFER
Günther Schneider
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1052962A1 publication Critical patent/EP1052962A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular those of the oil-in-water type, processes for their preparation and their use for cosmetic and medical purposes.
  • the human skin performs numerous vital functions. With an average surface area of around 2 m 2 in adults, it plays an outstanding role as a protective and sensory organ. The task of this organ is to convey and ward off mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. It also has an important role as a regulatory and target organ in human metabolism.
  • Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as L'nie, to strengthen or strengthen the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) restore as well as to support their horny layer in their natural regenerative capacity in the event of damage.
  • environmental influences e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms
  • body's own substances e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient.
  • skin care products should Protect world influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay skin aging.
  • Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another to a limited extent and are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids is dispersed in the other liquid in the form of very fine droplets.
  • the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.
  • An object of the present invention was to provide preparations which have a very low lipid content and do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • Cosmetic gels are extremely popular with consumers. Since they are mostly transparent, often colored, but should also be colorlessly clear, they offer the cosmetic developer additional design options, some of which have a functional character, but some of which only serve to improve the external appearance. For example, the product, which is then usually presented to the viewer in transparent packaging, can be worked color pigments, gas bubbles and the like, or even larger objects, interesting optical effects are given.
  • the incorporated object (s) may be recognizable as such with the naked eye as such, they may be visible in microscopic dimensions, but in an interesting arrangement - for example in the form of artificially created streaks of color Form, it is nevertheless desirable that these objects remain stationary in the gel formulation and do not sink to the bottom or in any way make other unpleasant migrations in the formulations.
  • Liquids can be distinguished in terms of their rheological properties by their flow and deformation behavior. Ideally elastic bodies suffer an elastic deformation due to external forces, which causes a spontaneous, complete reduction of the deformation when the external force is removed. Ideal viscous bodies are irreversibly changed in shape by external forces. The increasing deformation is called flow. Most liquids are neither ideally viscous nor ideally elastic, but show both viscous and elastic properties and are therefore referred to as viscoelastic substances.
  • Carbopolgels are cross-linked acrylic acid polymers that carry a high number of carboxyl groups. These structures bind water in dissolved form. The neutralization of the carboxyl groups leads to an expansion and thus swelling of the polymer chains due to their electrostatic repulsion. In this state, the Carbopol gels achieve their typical rheological properties, e.g. the formation of a yield point. It is disadvantageous that the formulation of corresponding preparations soon reaches its limits when a surfactant content is to be processed.
  • the preparations according to the invention act better than moisturizing preparations, are easier to formulate, better promote skin smoothing, are better cared for, and better serve as vehicles for cosmetic and medical-dermatological active ingredients better sensory properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, would have greater stability against decay in oil and water phases and would be better biocompatible than the preparations of the prior art.
  • the lipid content of the preparations obtainable according to the invention can advantageously be varied from 0% by weight to 5% by weight, with equally favorable results being achieved.
  • freedom from lipids there is no emulsion but a system which should best be referred to as an emulsifier gel.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished by a low lipid content or can also be lipid-free.
  • Preparations according to the invention preferably contain up to 3% by weight of a lipid phase and then represent O / W emulsions. Particularly advantageously, preparations according to the invention contain up to 2.5% by weight of a lipid phase, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • alkyl glucosides are preferably selected from the group of alkyl glucosides, which are characterized by the structural formula
  • R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 4 to 24 carbon atoms
  • DP means an average degree of glucosylation of up to 2.
  • R is advantageously selected from the group of the unbranched alkyl radicals, the myristyl radical, the cetyl radical, the stearyl radical, the eicosyl radical, the arachidyl radical and the behenyl radical being preferred.
  • Alkyl glucosides used according to the invention can be obtained by processes such as are described, for example, in DE-OS 40 40 655 and other documents. They are commercially available from various manufacturers.
  • Alkyl glucosides which come under the invention are, for example, Emulgade PL 68/50 (Henkel), Tego Care SG 90 (Goldschmidt), Montanov 68 (Seppic) contain cetylstearylglucoside + cetylstearyl alcohol, Montanov 82 (Seppic) cetylstearyl alcohol + cocoylovolucoside (Montylov) Arachidylgucoside + arychidyl alcohol + behenyl alcohol.
  • Such mixtures are commercially available, for example, under the trade name Tego® Care SG 90 from the company Th. Goldschmidt KG.
  • the total amount of one or more alkyl glucosides used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Sugar esters preferred according to the invention are esters of fatty acids and sucrose (sometimes also called “sucrose” in this document), simply to completely esterified, and commercially available cosmetic raw materials containing the same.
  • Sucrose has the following structure:
  • esters which can advantageously be used according to the invention, are characterized by the structure
  • R 1 -R 8 can advantageously be selected independently of one another from the group consisting of hydrogen atoms and branched and unbranched alkanoyl groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous if up to seven of the radicals R 1 - R 8 are hydrogen atoms and up to eight of the R 1 - R 8 is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkanoyl groups having 8 - 20 carbon atoms, of which especially the lauroyl and the myristoyl residue. 8th
  • Sugar esters made from sucrose and fatty acids are available, for example, from Grillo Cosmetics [e.g. Grilloten LSE 65 K (esters from sucrose and coconut fatty acids), Grilloten LSE 65 K soft (esters from sucrose and coconut fatty acids), Grilloten LSE 87 K (esters from sucrose and coconut fatty acids), Grilloten LSE 87 K soft (esters from sucrose and coconut fatty acids) ) or grilled meat PSE 141 G (esters from sucrose and palmitic acid / stearic acid)], stearinerie Dubois [eg Distearate de sucrose (sucrose distearate), Palmitate de sucrose (sucrose palmitate)], Sisterna [e.g.
  • Ryoto Sugar Ester L 1695 (sucrose laurate), Ryoto Sugar Ester M 1695 (sucrose myristate), Ryoto Sugar Ester M 595 (mixture of sucrose mono-, di- and trimyristate), Ryoto Sugar Ester P 1570 (sucrose palmitate), Ryoto Sugar Ester S -570 (sucrose distearate), Ryoto Sugar Ester S-370 (sucrose tristearate), Ryoto Sugar Ester S-270 (sucrose tetrastearate), Ryoto Sugar Ester S-170 (sucrose pentastearate), Ryoto Sugar Ester S-1170 (mixture of sucrose mono -, di- and tristearate)].
  • the total amount of one or more sucrose esters used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the glycerol ester (s) of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids can advantageously be selected from the group of glyceryl monoesters of monobasic fatty acids with an average of 8-30 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous to use glycerol esters which are either selected from the group of glycerol esters of wool wax acids or from the group of glycerol esters of palmitic or stearic acid.
  • Glycerol esters of wool wax acids and their use as W / O emulsifiers are known per se.
  • the German patent 20 23 786 describes such glycerol esters, their preparation and their use.
  • Wool wax or wool fat is the fat-to-wax-like component of raw sheep's wool that arises during raw wool washing.
  • the wool wax consists of a mixture of fatty acid esters of higher alcohols and free fatty acids.
  • the main components of wool wax acids are
  • N usually takes values from 7 - 31.
  • Representative compositions of the wool wax acids are e.g. in "Perfumery and Cosmetics", 59th year, No. 12/78, pages 429, 430 and in the "Lexicon of auxiliary substances for pharmacy, cosmetics and related areas" by HPFiedler, 1989, 3rd edition, Editio Cantor Aulendorf, described.
  • Raw wool wax acids are generally not suitable for cosmetic purposes, instead distilled wool wax acids are usually used. This fact and corresponding processes for refining the raw wool wax acids are known to the person skilled in the art.
  • wool wax acids consist of approx. 60% saturated, unsubstituted carboxylic acids, approx. 30% ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids and approx. 5% ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, the remainder of approx. 5% being essentially formed by the other aforementioned carboxylic acid types.
  • the total amount of one or more glycerol esters of saturated fatty acids used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • glycol ester (s) of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids can advantageously be selected from the group of glycol monoesters of monobasic fatty acids with an average of 8-30 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous to use glycol esters from the group of the glycol esters of palmitic or stearic acid.
  • the preferred fatty alcohol used according to the invention is cetyl-stearyl alcohol (a mixture of hexadecanol-1 and octadecanol-1 in approximately equal proportions).
  • the total amount of one or more fatty alcohols used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the weight ratio of the sum of the constituents of one or more partially neutralized esters of monoglycerides and / or diglycerides of saturated fatty acids with citric acid and fatty alcohols to the oil phase is selected according to the invention from the range from 20: 1 to 1: 5, advantageously from the range from 20 : 1 to 1: 2, particularly preferably about 1: 1.
  • the oil phase of the O / W emulsions according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms .
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil and the like.
  • oils according to the invention are also advantageously selected from the group consisting of petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil and polyolefins.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can furthermore advantageously be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a ketle length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain 12
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl palmitate Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate
  • oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, and the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols.
  • any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - 13
  • monobutyl ether propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, as well as low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose,
  • the preparations according to the invention are also particularly advantageous. Gel-like preparations. Thickeners based on acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers have therefore proven to be advantageous. These thickeners are selected particularly advantageously from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol®: actually registered trademark of the company BFGoodrich Company).
  • carbomers or carbopols Carbopol®: actually registered trademark of the company BFGoodrich Company.
  • the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers to be used advantageously according to the invention are distinguished by a structure as follows:
  • R ' represents a long-chain alkyl radical
  • x and y represent numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers.
  • products such as Carbopol® 1382 from the company BFGoodrich Company, but also carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also types ETD (easy-to-di-) can advantageously be used as acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • sperse 2001, 2020, 2050, each individually or in any combination with each other. Combination.
  • the total amount of one or more surface-active acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers advantageously used according to the invention in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight. -% selected, based on the total weight of the preparations. 14
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Camosin and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ß-carotene, ⁇ -lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine
  • thioredoxin glutathione , Cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilarylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta- in, hexa- sulfin, hepimine very low tolerable dosages (e.g.
  • chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactofferin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.
  • ascorbyl palmitate Mg - Ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A - palmitate) as well as konyferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisol, nordarzydroguane Nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g.
  • Water-soluble but also oil-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.
  • Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation .
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to use their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example consistency agents, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, thickeners, Surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, additional active substances such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytically or keratolytically active substances, medicines or other common components of one cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or electrolytes.
  • the latter can be selected, for example, from the group of salts with the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo-element anions, of which in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates.
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions are also advantageous, e.g. Lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts and others.
  • Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts.
  • Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
  • the preparations according to the invention can serve as the basis for cosmetic or dermatological formulations.
  • These can be composed as usual and can be used, for example, for the treatment and care of the skin and / or hair, as a lip care product, as a demo product and as a make-up or make-up removal product in decorative cosmetics or as a light protection preparation.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics or dermatics.
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions in the sense of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceuticals Use wording.
  • the low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention can be present, for example, as preparations sprayable from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or by means of a pump device, or in the form of a roll-on device 17
  • liquid composition that can be applied, but also in the form of an emulsion that can be applied from normal bottles and containers.
  • Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic or dermatological preparations which can be sprayed from aerosol containers for the purposes of the present invention are the customary known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.
  • UV protection substances like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, is cosmetic 18th
  • the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • 1,3,5-triazine preferably 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.
  • UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations.
  • These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular l - ⁇ '- tert-butylpheny -S - ⁇ ' - methoxypheny propane-I .S-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as 19
  • the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.
  • Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
  • Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products .
  • Sucrose tetrastearate 1, 00 sucrose ester S-270

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant (I) une ou plusieurs substances tensioactives choisies dans le groupe (Ia) des alkylglucosides et (Ib) des disaccharides estérifiés avec un ou plusieurs esters d'acide gras, (II) une ou plusieurs substances tensioactives choisies dans le groupe (IIa) des esters glycériques d'acides gras saturés ou insaturés, (IIb) des esters de glycol d'acides gras saturés ou insaturés, et (IIc) un ou plusieurs alcools gras choisis dans le groupe des alkylalcools ramifiés et non ramifiés, avec 12 à 40 atomes de carbone, (III) une phase aqueuse, et (IV) entre 0 et 5 % en poids d'une phase lipidique, par rapport au poids total des préparations.
EP99908833A 1998-02-13 1999-01-29 Emulsions huile/eau cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a teneur lipidique reduite Withdrawn EP1052962A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19805918A DE19805918A1 (de) 1998-02-13 1998-02-13 Lipidreduzierte Zubereitungen
DE19805918 1998-02-13
PCT/EP1999/000581 WO1999040886A1 (fr) 1998-02-13 1999-01-29 Emulsions huile/eau cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a teneur lipidique reduite

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EP1052962A1 true EP1052962A1 (fr) 2000-11-22

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EP (1) EP1052962A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2002502866A (fr)
DE (1) DE19805918A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1999040886A1 (fr)

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JP2002502866A (ja) 2002-01-29
WO1999040886A1 (fr) 1999-08-19
US20040037795A1 (en) 2004-02-26
DE19805918A1 (de) 1999-08-19
US7235251B2 (en) 2007-06-26

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