EP1111111A2 - Kettenwirkware und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung - Google Patents

Kettenwirkware und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1111111A2
EP1111111A2 EP00127744A EP00127744A EP1111111A2 EP 1111111 A2 EP1111111 A2 EP 1111111A2 EP 00127744 A EP00127744 A EP 00127744A EP 00127744 A EP00127744 A EP 00127744A EP 1111111 A2 EP1111111 A2 EP 1111111A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pattern
yarn
forming
thickness
knitted
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP00127744A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1111111A3 (de
Inventor
Yasuhiko Motoya
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sakae Lace Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Sakae Lace Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Sakae Lace Co Ltd filed Critical Sakae Lace Co Ltd
Publication of EP1111111A2 publication Critical patent/EP1111111A2/de
Publication of EP1111111A3 publication Critical patent/EP1111111A3/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a warp knit complising a plurality of warp yarns chain-stitched to form a plurality of wales for forming a ground weave and at least one pattern-forming yarn knitted into the ground weave, with the pattern-forming yarn having a course-wise knitted portion extending between the wales and relates also to a method of knitting the same.
  • the invention relates, more particularly, to art for improving quality of a raschel lace knit.
  • a lace knit is considered of superior quality if it has a small thickness at its area in the form of a net where ornamental holes are provided and at the same time it has a large thickness at its area where an ornamental pattern is provided.
  • the raschel lace as an example of warp knit is generally considered to be inferior in terms of quality to the so-called leaver lace since the latter allows formation of thicker ornamental pattern thereon.
  • the raschel lace has an advantage over the leaver lace in that the former is easier to manufacture than the latter.
  • a primary object of the present invention is to provide a warp knit which readily allows increase of the thickness of its pattern-forming area and also a method of knitting the same.
  • a warp knit comprises: a plurality of warp yarns chain-stitched to form a plurality of wales for forming a ground weave, and; at least one pattern-forming yarn knitted into the ground weave, with the pattern-forming yarn having a course-wise knitted portion extending between the wales; wherein the warp knit further comprises a thickness-increasing overlay yarn knitted to be laid over the back side of the pattern-forming yam at least over a portion of the course-wise knitted portion thereof, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn having a greater elasticity than the pattern-forming yarn.
  • the thickness of the pattern-forming portion of the knit is increased by means of the physical presence of this additional yam.
  • the knitting operation will take place with the thickness-increasing overlay yarn being elastically stretched, so that after completion of the knitting operation and upon subsequent release of the knit from the knitting machine, the stretched thickness-increasing overlay yarn will be elastically contracted thereby to bend the pattern-forming yarn adjacent thereto to project proud from the knit surface.
  • the thickness of the pattern forming portion is further increased.
  • the elastic thickness-increasing overlay yarn is disposed along and adjacent the pattern-forming yarn, when a user touches the pattern-forming area of the knit, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn therein will be elastically stretched in association with the resultant deformation of the bent pattern-forming yarn. Therefore, this warp knit provides good feel also.
  • the method comprises the steps of: chain-stitching a plurality of warp yarns to form a plurality of wales for forming a ground weave, and; knitting at least one pattern-forming yarn into the ground weave, with the pattern-forming yarn having a course-wise knitted portion extending between the wales; wherein the method further comprises the step of knitting a thickness-increasing overlay yarn knitted to be laid over the back side of the pattern-forming yarn at least over a portion of the course-wise knitted portion thereof, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn having a greater elasticity than the pattern-forming yarn.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is knitted under a greater tension than that applied to the pattern-forming yarn.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn will provide a distinctly strong force of elastic contraction to the pattern-forming yarn. As a result, the thickness of the pattern-forming area of the knit will be further increased.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is knitted on a back side of an entire pattern-forming area of the knit where the pattern-forming yarn is knitted two-dimensionally to form an ornamental pattern.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is provided on the back side of the entire pattern-forming area, the thickness of this entire pattern-forming area may be increased.
  • the entire pattern-forming area may be increased in its thickness easily.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is knitted on a back side of a predetermined portion of a pattern-forming area of the knit where the pattern-forming yarn is knitted two-dimensionally to form an ornamental pattern.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is provided a back side of a predetermined portion of a pattern-forming area of the knit where the pattern-forming yarn is knitted two-dimensionally to form an ornamental pattern, the thickness of the predetermined portion of the pattern-forming area may be selectively increased as desired.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn is knitted along the course direction to be laid over the entire course-wise knitted portion of the pattern-forming yarn.
  • the pattern-forming yarn comprises a liner yarn ranging from 200 denier to 300 denier.
  • a plurality of pattern-forming yarns may be knitted two-dimensionally to form a pattern-forming area on a front side of the knit, and said thickness-increasing overlay yarn is knitted to be laid over a back side of at least one or some of the plurality of pattern-forming yarns.
  • the pattern-forming area will be formed with using a plurality of pattern-forming yarns. Then, by selecting using yarns of different properties at different locations, the art disclosed by the invention relating to the use of the thickness-increasing overlay yarn may be applied to one or some of these pattern-forming yarns for causing them to bulge proud. Consequently, with use of significantly bulging pattern-forming yarn(s) and no so significantly bulging pattern-forming yarn(s), advantageous variation may be achieved in the ornamental pattern in the knit.
  • a plurality of warp yarns 1 e.g. nylon yarns
  • a plurality of weft yarns 2 are knitted to interconnect the adjacent wales X so as to form a ground weave having a number of ornamental holes 4 formed between the wales X and the weft yarns 2.
  • a desired number of pattern-forming yarns 3 are knitted along the course direction over a required wale-wise distance so as to complete a raschel lace knit L having an ornamental pattern formed two-dimensionally on the surface thereof.
  • This raschel lace knit L is an example of a warp knit to which the present invention relates.
  • the pattern-forming yarns 3 are knitted simultaneously with the warp yarns 1 and the weft yarns 2 respectively (that is, simultaneously with the formation of the ground weave) so as to form the two-dimensional ornamental pattern-forming area A thereon.
  • This pattern-forming area A forms an ornamental design pattern exemplified by a floral pattern shown in the outview of Fig. 1.
  • the warp yarns 1 are knitted in the form of chain stitches including a plurality of needle loops 1n and a plurality of sinker loops 1s.
  • each weft yarn 2 inserted into a sinker loop 1s of a predetermined wale X is shifted wale-wise by a predetermined distance over a predetermined number of courses and then inserted into a sinker loop 1s of an adjacent wale X.
  • this weft yarn 2 is shifted wale-wise and again inserted into the sinker loop 1s of the first wale X and then shifted wale-wise by a predetermined distance over a predetermined number of courses.
  • the ground weave is formed.
  • each pattern-forming yarn 3 is knitted along the same course between the wales to be inserted course-wise into the sinker loop 1s by a required length and then turned before reaching the next course and then knitted in this new course between the wales to be inserted into the sinker loop 1s again by a required length.
  • an ornamental pattern-forming area A of a desired shape is formed two-dimensionally in the ground weave (see Figs. 6, 7 and 8; in Figs. 7 and 8, only some of the wales are illustrated with being denoted with dashed lines).
  • the pattern-forming yarn 3 is disposed parallel with the weft yarn 2 (not shown).
  • the pattern-forming yarn 3 is not limited to a nylon yarn, but can be any type of yarn suitable for forming a desired ornamental pattern.
  • this pattern-forming yarn 3 comprises a liner yarn of 200 denier to 300 denier approximately. Instead, this can be a thick yarn of about 100 denier or a thin yarn of about 50 denier or a glossy yarn of about 150 denier, also.
  • the raschel lace knit L according to the essential spirit of the present invention further comprises a thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 which is knitted along the course direction to be laid over the back side of a portion of or entire pattern-forming yarn 3 (see Figs. 5 and 6), so as to increase the thickness of the pattern-forming area A by elastic contraction of this thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5. More particularly, as shown in Fig. 4, this thickness-increasing yarn 5 is formed of a strand 5b of cotton, nylon, etc., wound spirally about a core 5a comprising a monofilament of polyurethane.
  • this thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 is provided with a greater elasticity than the pattern-forming yarn 3 (greater also than the warp yarn 1 and the weft yarn 2).
  • this yarn 5 it is preferred that this yarn 5 be knitted under a greater tension than that applied to the pattern-forming yarn 3.
  • substantially same desired effect may be achieved when the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 and the pattern-forming yarn 3 are knitted under an equal tension as well.
  • the raschel lace L in embodying the raschel lace L as a commercial product, three modes of embodiments are conceivable. Namely, it may be desired to increase the thickness of the entire pattern-forming area A. Or, it may be desired to increase the thickness of only a selected portion of the pattern-forming area A so as to provide variation in the three-dimensional effect of this area A. Further alternatively, it may be desired not to increase the thickness of the area A at all, but desired to cause the peripheral edge of the pattern-forming area to appear in clear contrast to the rest of the knit.
  • the "pattern-forming area A” refers to an area of the knit where the pattern-forming yarns 3 are knitted along a common course between the wales (i.e. knitted weft-wise) such that the ground weave is covered with a relatively large number of pattern-forming yarns 3 together forming an ornamental pattern.
  • the other portion not covered with the pattern-forming yarns 3 includes ornamental holes of the lace.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 is provided along and on the back side of only one of the two pattern-forming yarns 3 (in this, if desired, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 may be laid over only a selected longitudinal portion of the one pattern-forming yarn 3 rather than over the entire yam 3), and in a further pattern-forming area A3 which does not require any thickness increase, as shown in Fig. 8 but requires enhanced visual contrast of the peripheral edge of the pattern-forming area, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 is disposed outside and along the outer periphery of the pattern-forming area A3.
  • the peripheral area i.e. a portion of the ground weave, knitted with this yarn 5 will be elastically contracted to "highlight" the pattern-forming area A3 surrounded therein in terms of visual impression and tactile sensation. That is to say, the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 need not necessarily be overlapped with the pattern-forming area A, but may be disposed any desired area or portion other than the pattern-forming area A.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 in the finished raschel lace knit L, its area where the ornamental holes 4 are present is formed thin as only the warp yarns 1 and the weft yarns 2 are present therein, thereby to provide superior visual cosmetic impression of the lace pattern.
  • its pattern-forming area A is formed thick because of the presence of the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 laid over the pattern-forming yarn 3 Moreover, this elastic overlay yarn 5 constantly provides a contraction or compression force to the pattern-forming yarn 3 adjacent thereto for bending it to the outside, so that the pattern-forming yarn 3 will be bulged proud over the front side thereof.
  • the thickness of the pattern-forming area A formed with the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 may be further increased.
  • the pattern-forming yarn 3 is bulged by means of the elastic urging force, it, due to this elasticity, can give soft pleasant feel to a user touching it. And, the increased thickness can contribute also to greater softness and flexibility.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 is provided only at a limited portion of the ornamental pattern-forming area A as described above, even with using pattern-forming yarn(s) of an equal diameter, depending on presence or absence of the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 adjacent thereto, only a portion of the area A incorporating this overlay yarn 5 can be selectively increased in its thickness. In this manner, not only the thickness of the pattern-forming area A, but also its voluminousness, touch-feel, three-dimensional effect and visual impression thereof can be freely set as desired.
  • the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 comprises a polyurethane yarn of monofilament.
  • this yarn 5 can be a multi-filament or yarn of any other material such as isoprene rubber, chloroprene rubber, etc.
  • the warp yam 1 and the weft yarn 2 both comprise nylon yarns. Instead, one or both of them can be a polyester yarn, silk yarn, cotton yarn, etc.
  • the pattern-forming yarn 3 can be a thick yarn, thin yarn or a glossy yarn, etc. And, its thickness or diameter can be freely selected depending on the necessity or desirability.
  • the pattern-forming yarn 3 and the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 are knitted along the same knitting pattern for mutual overlap. According to the spirit of the invention, such overlap is essential for the pattern-forming area A alone. Needless to say, in other areas, any knitting-pattern relationship between the pattern-forming yarn 3 and the thickness-increasing overlay yarn 5 may be appropriately or freely selected.. That is, the overlap arrangement should be considered in the unit of this pattern-forming area A. Such overlap need not necessarily be provided over the entire area of the knit.
  • the ground weave includes the warp yarns and weft yarns.
  • the weft yarn is not essential for the present invention.
  • the ground weave may be formed, without using the weft yarns, by traversing, in a selected course, the warp yarn forming a wale to a wale adjacent thereto.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
EP00127744A 1999-12-22 2000-12-19 Kettenwirkware und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung Withdrawn EP1111111A3 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP36440699A JP3393099B2 (ja) 1999-12-22 1999-12-22 ラッセルレース地
JP36440699 1999-12-22

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1111111A2 true EP1111111A2 (de) 2001-06-27
EP1111111A3 EP1111111A3 (de) 2002-05-22

Family

ID=18481733

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00127744A Withdrawn EP1111111A3 (de) 1999-12-22 2000-12-19 Kettenwirkware und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung

Country Status (3)

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US (1) US20010005994A1 (de)
EP (1) EP1111111A3 (de)
JP (1) JP3393099B2 (de)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013023264A1 (pt) * 2011-08-15 2013-02-21 Schmitz Luiz Carlos Disposição introduzida em fios para trabalhos manuais com agulhas de tricô, croché ou similares
WO2013181725A1 (pt) * 2012-06-05 2013-12-12 Schmitz Luiz Carlos Disposição introduzida em fitas de materiais têxteis ou tiras de materiais alternativos para trabalhos manuais com a ulhas de tricô ou similares.
EP3138944A1 (de) * 2015-09-07 2017-03-08 Miyagi Lace Co., Ltd. Spitzenstoff und verfahren zum stricken von spitzenstoff
CN109505054A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-03-22 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 一种非热熔材质的任意裁蕾丝花边织物

Families Citing this family (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100609772B1 (ko) 2005-02-15 2006-08-08 주식회사 운수레스 스트레치 레이스 샤링병(柄) 편물의 제조방법
US20120150204A1 (en) * 2008-12-15 2012-06-14 Allergan, Inc. Implantable silk prosthetic device and uses thereof
JP6068769B1 (ja) * 2016-07-29 2017-01-25 マスターズプランナー株式会社 フルウィッグ用のウィッグベース
JP6578314B2 (ja) * 2017-03-10 2019-09-18 株式会社Ｙｏｓｈｉｔａ Ｔｅｘ レース編地
JP6295358B1 (ja) * 2017-04-24 2018-03-14 宮城レース株式会社 ラッセルレース編地の製造方法
JP6293965B1 (ja) * 2017-09-06 2018-03-14 株式会社Yoshita Tex 編レース
JP2019151944A (ja) * 2018-03-01 2019-09-12 株式会社グローウィング かつら
US11535960B2 (en) * 2020-04-17 2022-12-27 Jhih Huei Trading Co., Ltd. Textile for shoe upper and shoe body including the same
JP7454245B2 (ja) * 2021-02-15 2024-03-22 株式会社クロダレース 編レース、及び製造方法
CN113718418A (zh) * 2021-09-30 2021-11-30 绍兴柯桥佳隆针纺有限公司 一种经编底版的编织方法

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3999407A (en) * 1975-04-01 1976-12-28 Stedman Corporation Embossed striped elastic warp knit fabric and method of making same
GB2106153B (en) * 1981-09-03 1985-04-11 Ici Plc Elastomeric knitted pile fabrics
GB8333425D0 (en) * 1983-12-15 1984-01-25 Moore R V A Fabric material
ATE142719T1 (de) * 1993-11-16 1996-09-15 Sakae Lace Kk Gewirkte spitze und verfahren zu deren herstellung
JPH09119046A (ja) * 1995-10-26 1997-05-06 Sakae Lace Kk レース編物
US5899095A (en) * 1998-01-21 1999-05-04 Liberty Fabrics Jacquard fabric and method of manufacturing

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2013023264A1 (pt) * 2011-08-15 2013-02-21 Schmitz Luiz Carlos Disposição introduzida em fios para trabalhos manuais com agulhas de tricô, croché ou similares
WO2013181725A1 (pt) * 2012-06-05 2013-12-12 Schmitz Luiz Carlos Disposição introduzida em fitas de materiais têxteis ou tiras de materiais alternativos para trabalhos manuais com a ulhas de tricô ou similares.
EP3138944A1 (de) * 2015-09-07 2017-03-08 Miyagi Lace Co., Ltd. Spitzenstoff und verfahren zum stricken von spitzenstoff
CN106498617A (zh) * 2015-09-07 2017-03-15 宫城花边株式会社 蕾丝面料及蕾丝面料的织造方法
CN106498617B (zh) * 2015-09-07 2020-03-31 宫城花边株式会社 蕾丝面料及蕾丝面料的织造方法
CN109505054A (zh) * 2018-12-27 2019-03-22 东莞超盈纺织有限公司 一种非热熔材质的任意裁蕾丝花边织物
EP3916141A4 (de) * 2018-12-27 2022-12-07 Dongguan Best Pacific Textile Ltd. Willkürlich geschnittenes schnürband aus nicht-heissschmelzendem material

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP3393099B2 (ja) 2003-04-07
US20010005994A1 (en) 2001-07-05
JP2001181946A (ja) 2001-07-03
EP1111111A3 (de) 2002-05-22

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