EP2050845A1 - Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Stoffes aus extradünnem Garn aus hoch qualitativen Fasern, der ansonsten nicht industriell hergestellt werden könnte - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Stoffes aus extradünnem Garn aus hoch qualitativen Fasern, der ansonsten nicht industriell hergestellt werden könnte Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2050845A1
EP2050845A1 EP08166318A EP08166318A EP2050845A1 EP 2050845 A1 EP2050845 A1 EP 2050845A1 EP 08166318 A EP08166318 A EP 08166318A EP 08166318 A EP08166318 A EP 08166318A EP 2050845 A1 EP2050845 A1 EP 2050845A1
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Prior art keywords
extra
yarns
fine
fibres
water
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EP08166318A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2050845B1 (de
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Jacopo Geraldini
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
    • D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
    • D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for the production of a fabric made of super-extra-fine yarns of high-quality fibres, which may not otherwise be produced industrially.
  • a fabric made of extra-fine yarns of high-quality animal fibres such as, for example, pure cashmere yarns or an intimate blend of cashmere and silk or extra-fine wool, vicuna, angora, alpaca etc., may be produced with a yarn count that may reach a maximum fineness of about 100 dtex / 83 dtex.
  • the object of the present invention is now to provide a process which allows to produce fabrics made of high-quality animal fibre yarns which are super-extra-fine, i.e. yarns having a higher degree of fineness, not currently available commercially, able to reach a yarn count of 33 dtex and finer.
  • the process according to the present invention includes the following steps:
  • the starting extra-fine yarns may consist of an intimate blend of very-high-quality animal fibres (e.g. pure cashmere or an intimate blend of 80% cashmere and 20% silk) and water-soluble fibres, not necessarily with an extra-fine yarn count, the latter in a varying percentage between a minimum of 5% and a maximum of 95% depending on the final yarn count of the desired super-extra-fine yarn, as well as on the specific characteristics of the desired type of fabric (particularly in terms of "feel").
  • the above-mentioned super-extra-fine yarns may be single ply or double ply.
  • water-soluble yarns refers to synthetic-fibre yarns that may dissolve in a slightly acidic aqueous solution brought to the temperature required for the dissolution. They preferably, but not necessarily, have the same yarn count as the extra-fine yarns.
  • Doubling may be achieved through two different procedures concerning the direction of twist to be performed during the step of coupling, with the main reference direction being that of the extra-fine yarn having animal fibres.
  • the direction of twist of the yarn entirely made of water-soluble material is actually completely uninfluential and irrelevant.
  • an extra-fine yarn made of a blend of fibres in the proportions of 50% cashmere (WS) and 50% water-soluble yarn (PVA) is considered, with a yarn count of 111 dtex, which is doubled with a yarn entirely made of PVA, with the same yarn count as the extra-fine yarn.
  • a doubled yarn with a yarn count of 111 dtex multiplied by 2 and an overall composition of 25%WS - 75%PVA is thus obtained, which will be employed in the normal step of weaving to create a coarse fabric.
  • the coarse fabric is then subjected to a step of scouring dyeing, which includes an operation of dissolving or melting the water-soluble fibres (based on the procedures required by/provided for the specific type of PVA), in order to be able to obtain a final fabric entirely made of 100% WS, with a final super-extra-fine yarn count of 55 dtex, which it is absolutely impossible to be achieved through the currently known techniques.
  • scouring dyeing includes an operation of dissolving or melting the water-soluble fibres (based on the procedures required by/provided for the specific type of PVA), in order to be able to obtain a final fabric entirely made of 100% WS, with a final super-extra-fine yarn count of 55 dtex, which it is absolutely impossible to be achieved through the currently known techniques.
  • the above-mentioned super-extra-fine yarn count may be simply calculated beforehand from the step of composing the starting extra-fine yarn blend; in the above described case, since the starting yarn count of 111 dtex and the fibre blend compound of 50% WS and 50% PVA are known, once the said 50% PVA aliquot has dissolved, the final yarn count for the fabric (100%WS) will be twice the initial yarn count, i.e. 55 dtex, which is well beyond the fineness parameters which are currently possible or imaginable.
  • the variability of the parameters concerning the percentage of PVA and animal fibres in the starting extra-fine yarn may also be detected for specific needs, such as those of 'feel'.
  • a hypothetical yarn count of 55 dtex may be achieved either by exactly applying the fineness parameters and/or composition percentages described above, or by means of a similar procedure involving however the use of a lower extra-fine yarn count, equivalent to 222 dtex, along with a composition of 25% WS and 75% PVA.
  • the product thus obtained although it also has a yarn count of 55 dtex, might display a slightly different "feel", naturally as desired result.
  • the starting yarn count thereof might also be well below the levels which are considered fine and/or extra-fine.
  • the starting extra-fine yarn was created by traditional spinning with a Z-twist, preferably with 850 turns per linear metre.
  • the yarn 1 is then doubled with a yarn 2 having substantially the same yarn count, also having a Z-twist, preferably with 850 turns per linear metre, consisting of the so-called 'water-soluble' synthetic fibres, i.e. fibres which may dissolve in a slightly acidic aqueous solution at the appropriate temperature, specifically polyvinyl material (PVA).
  • the yarn 2 may be made of fibres woven with a cotton-type cut (thus having a discontinuous nature).
  • Doubling is carried out with an S-twist, preferably with 340 turns per linear metre, so as to obtain a correct final balancing of the doubled yarn, indicated by numeral 3 in figure 1 .
  • an appropriate number of doubled yarns 3 is then subjected to a traditional warp and weft weaving (or on a circular Jersey-type machine), in which the polyvinyl yarns 2 serve as a support to allow the extra-fine yarns 1 to be woven, which may not otherwise be woven industrially.
  • the coarse fabric thus obtained which may have any cloth-, twill- or jacquard-type weave, clearly has the same composition as the doubled yarn 3.
  • Such a coarse fabric is then subjected to a step of scouring dyeing, whrein it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 litres per 1 kg of polyvinyl with a slightly acidic pH (about 4.5) at a dissolution temperature in the range between 30°C and 100°C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
  • the PVA yarn 2 and any similar water-soluble fibres present in the yarn 1 are thus eliminated by dissolving or melting, leaving a final fabric ( fig. 3 ) exclusively consisting of yarns 1' with a super-extra-fine yarn count (even up to 33 dtex) made of high-quality animal fibres only (pure cashmere or cashmere and silk), which would otherwise have been impossible to be achieved by means of traditional techniques.
  • the remaining yarn 1' has a twist equivalent to the algebraic sum of the spinning (850 Z) and doubling (340 S) twists, i.e. in the example shown equivalent to 510 Z.
  • the resulting fabric is therefore extremely soft, as well as with an extra-fine yarn count.
  • the doubling operation may be carried out by a doubling Z-twist, i.e. in the same direction as that of the yarns 1, as shown in figures 4 and 5 .
  • the remaining yarn 1' has a twist equivalent to the sum of the spinning and doubling twists, i.e. in the example shown equivalent to 1190 Z, but this is still low enough to make the final fabric soft, while considerably reducing the "peeling" effect.
  • a water-soluble yarn 2 may be doubled (in a clockwise or anticlockwise direction) with two extra-fine yarns or a two-ply yarn 1.
  • a coarse fabric made of three-ply warp and weft yarns is obtained ,which, once the water-soluble yarns have been dissolved, will become a finished fabric with super-extra-fine yarns completely identical to that shown in figures 3 and 6 , but with two-ply yarns.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
EP08166318A 2007-10-19 2008-10-10 Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Stoffes aus extradünnem Garn aus hoch qualitativen Fasern, der ansonsten nicht industriell hergestellt werden könnte Active EP2050845B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT002029A ITMI20072029A1 (it) 2007-10-19 2007-10-19 "processo per la produzione di un tessuto composto da filati superextrafini in fibre pregiate, altrimenti non realizzabili industrialmente"

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2050845A1 true EP2050845A1 (de) 2009-04-22
EP2050845B1 EP2050845B1 (de) 2011-01-12

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP08166318A Active EP2050845B1 (de) 2007-10-19 2008-10-10 Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Stoffes aus extradünnem Garn aus hoch qualitativen Fasern, der ansonsten nicht industriell hergestellt werden könnte

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2050845B1 (de)
AT (1) ATE495292T1 (de)
DE (1) DE602008004393D1 (de)
IT (1) ITMI20072029A1 (de)

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
ITMI20121433A1 (it) * 2012-08-13 2014-02-14 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
ITMI20132090A1 (it) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-14 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la produzione di un filato con caratteristiche di idoneità alla tessitura e relativo procedimento di tessitura di tale filato
IT201800001698A1 (it) * 2018-01-23 2019-07-23 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
IT201800005476A1 (it) * 2018-05-17 2019-11-17 Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato
CN112725959A (zh) * 2020-12-03 2021-04-30 广东职业技术学院 一种低密度、蓬松的混纺纱线及其制备方法和应用
IT202100017822A1 (it) * 2021-07-06 2023-01-06 Mantero Seta S P A Tessuto ultraleggero di seta e metodo per la sua realizzazione

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB775387A (en) * 1954-06-04 1957-05-22 Kanegafuchi Spinning Co Ltd Process for manufacturing spun yarn
EP0636716A1 (de) * 1993-07-29 1995-02-01 Kuraray Co., Ltd. Wasserlösliche Polyvinylalkoholfaser
CN1259596A (zh) * 1999-01-07 2000-07-12 上海恒源祥绒线有限公司 超短纤维纱、其织物及制备方法
EP1061162A1 (de) * 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1245706A1 (de) * 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Verfahren zur Herstellung von sehr feinem Wollgewebe mit Einzelfäden in dem Schuss mit verbesserten Webeigenschaften
CN1431345A (zh) * 2003-01-23 2003-07-23 凯诺科技股份有限公司 低温水溶聚乙烯醇与羊毛混纺或与棉、麻、丝、毛纱交并生产高支精纺毛织物的技术

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB775387A (en) * 1954-06-04 1957-05-22 Kanegafuchi Spinning Co Ltd Process for manufacturing spun yarn
EP0636716A1 (de) * 1993-07-29 1995-02-01 Kuraray Co., Ltd. Wasserlösliche Polyvinylalkoholfaser
CN1259596A (zh) * 1999-01-07 2000-07-12 上海恒源祥绒线有限公司 超短纤维纱、其织物及制备方法
EP1061162A1 (de) * 1999-06-15 2000-12-20 Jacopo Geraldini Verfahren zum Herstellen eines reinen Kaschmirtextilartikels
EP1245706A1 (de) * 2001-03-26 2002-10-02 Polgat Textiles Co. (1960) Ltd. Verfahren zur Herstellung von sehr feinem Wollgewebe mit Einzelfäden in dem Schuss mit verbesserten Webeigenschaften
CN1431345A (zh) * 2003-01-23 2003-07-23 凯诺科技股份有限公司 低温水溶聚乙烯醇与羊毛混纺或与棉、麻、丝、毛纱交并生产高支精纺毛织物的技术

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ITMI20101404A1 (it) * 2010-07-28 2012-01-29 Citterio Flli Spa Procedimento di produzione di un tessuto in fibre tessili naturali animali, particolarmente fibre tessili naturali di tipo pregiato
ITMI20121433A1 (it) * 2012-08-13 2014-02-14 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
ITMI20131647A1 (it) * 2013-10-04 2015-04-05 Ermes Ardizzone Procedimento per la realizzazione di tessuti ortogonali ed in maglia molto leggeri, antipiega ed elastici naturali con fibre proteiche.
ITMI20132090A1 (it) * 2013-12-13 2015-06-14 Canepa S P A Procedimento per la produzione di un filato con caratteristiche di idoneità alla tessitura e relativo procedimento di tessitura di tale filato
WO2015087306A1 (en) 2013-12-13 2015-06-18 Canepa S.P.A. A process of making a yarn having weavability features and a process of weaving such yarn
IT201800001698A1 (it) * 2018-01-23 2019-07-23 Gruppo Tessile Ind S P A Procedimento per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile
IT201800005476A1 (it) * 2018-05-17 2019-11-17 Procedimento per la fabbricazione di un filato a base di una fibra naturale e un tessuto realizzato con tale filato
CN112725959A (zh) * 2020-12-03 2021-04-30 广东职业技术学院 一种低密度、蓬松的混纺纱线及其制备方法和应用
IT202100017822A1 (it) * 2021-07-06 2023-01-06 Mantero Seta S P A Tessuto ultraleggero di seta e metodo per la sua realizzazione
EP4116474A1 (de) * 2021-07-06 2023-01-11 MANTERO Seta S.p.a. Ultraleichtes seidengewebe und herstellverfahren dafür

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE495292T1 (de) 2011-01-15
DE602008004393D1 (de) 2011-02-24
ITMI20072029A1 (it) 2009-04-20
EP2050845B1 (de) 2011-01-12

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