EP2717840A1 - Haarreinigungszusammensetzung - Google Patents

Haarreinigungszusammensetzung

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Publication number
EP2717840A1
EP2717840A1 EP12721562.2A EP12721562A EP2717840A1 EP 2717840 A1 EP2717840 A1 EP 2717840A1 EP 12721562 A EP12721562 A EP 12721562A EP 2717840 A1 EP2717840 A1 EP 2717840A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sodium
composition according
surfactant
polyquaternium
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP12721562.2A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2717840B1 (de
Inventor
Michael Molenda
Normen Lipinski
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kao Germany GmbH
Original Assignee
Kao Germany GmbH
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Filing date
Publication date
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Priority to EP12721562.2A priority Critical patent/EP2717840B1/de
Publication of EP2717840A1 publication Critical patent/EP2717840A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2717840B1 publication Critical patent/EP2717840B1/de
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • Present invention relates to an aqueous cleansing composition for keratin fibres, especially human hair, comprising at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, at least one anionic amide surfactant and at least one amphoteric amide surfactant.
  • Cleansing compositions have been known for many years. Many patent applications and scientific publications deal with such compositions aiming at cleansing, especially improved conditioning effects after cleansing. Cleansing compositions wash out dirt on the hair and at the same time dyestuffs deposited onto or into hair are also washed out, which leads to shorter colour durability after coloration services and is not economical in terms of frequent hair dressing need and also health of hair. Attempts have been made to reduce colour wash out from coloured hair with various ways. One of them is so called colour sealing which requires application of an additional mostly hydrophobic composition right after colouring hair so that the dyes are not easily solubilised by the high surfactant content of cleansing compositions. The other approach has been to use a special surfactant combination which interacts with dyestuff molecules and also with hair in a lesser extent. None of the approaches are optimal for variably coloured hair and, therefore, there is a great need for further improvements in the field.
  • Aim of the present invention is to provide an aqueous cleansing composition having optimal benefits of foam properties in terms of its volume and creaminess as well as improved conditioning effects on keratin fibres, especially human hair, in terms of combability, smoothness, elasticity, softness, volume and body and at the same time washes out artificial hair colour in a lesser extend so that the coloured hair keeps its colour and therefore shine and healthy appearance.
  • an aqueous cleansing composition comprising at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, at least one anionic amide surfactant and at least one amphoteric amide surfactant provides excellent foam and conditioning properties and also washes out less colour from hair so that long lasting colours are achieved.
  • the first object of the present invention is an aqueous cleansing composition comprising at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, at least one anionic amide surfactant and at least one amphoteric amide surfactant.
  • anionic amide surfactant it is meant that the anionic surfactant comprise at least one amide group in its molecule and especially those surfactants are meant derived from taurate, glutamate, alanin or alaninate, sarcosinate and aspartate.
  • amphoteric amide surfactant it is meant that the surfactant is amphoteric in the composition it is comprised and it includes at least one amide group in its molecule.
  • Second object of the present invention is the use of cleansing composition comprising at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, at least one anionic amide acid surfactant and at least one amphoteric amide surfactant for cleansing and conditioning hair.
  • Third objective of the present invention is the use of cleansing composition comprising at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, at least one anionic amide acid surfactant and at least one amphoteric amide surfactant for reducing colour fading and/or wash out from artificially coloured hair.
  • kits for treating hair wherein it comprises two or more compositions wherein at least one of the compositions is a composition according to present invention.
  • Still further object of the present invention is a process for treating hair wherein hair is artificially coloured in a first step and washed with a cleansing composition of the present invention.
  • compositions of the present invention comprises surfactant at a total concentration of 5 to 50%, preferably 7.5 to 40%, more preferably 8 to 30% and most preferably 10 to 25% and particularly 10 to 20% by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.
  • Cleansing composition of the present invention comprises at least one mono ester anionic surfactant, which is preferably according to the general structure wherein R 30 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 9 to 17 C atoms, R 31 is a methyl or straight or branched alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms and M is ammonium or an alkali metal, preferably sodium.
  • Suitable non-limiting examples are sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl isethionate, sodium oleoyl methyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl methyl isethionate and ammonium cocoyl isethionate.
  • Preferred are sodium cocoyl isethionate and ammonium cocoyl isethionate.
  • Concentration of at least one mono ester anionic surfactant is in the range of 1 to 15%, preferably 2 to 1 2%, more preferably 3 to 10% and most preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight calculated to the total content of the composition.
  • concentrations mentioned here are total concentration ranges in case more than one mono ester anionic surfactant is present.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic amino acid surfactant of the following structure
  • R 2 is H or a methyl
  • R 3 is H, COO " M + , CH 2 COO " M or COOH
  • n is 0 to 2
  • X is COO " or S0 3 " and M is independent from each other H, sodium, potassium or ammonium.
  • alkyi chain includes also mixture of various alkyi groups as present especially in plant triglyceride derived alkyi chains such as cocoyl chain.
  • Cleansing composition of the present invention comprises at least one anionic amino acid surfactant according to the general formula of above at a concentration of 1 to 15%, preferably 2 to 1 2%, more preferably 3 to 10% and most preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight calculated to the total content of the composition.
  • concentrations mentioned here are total concentration ranges in case more than one amino acid surfactant is present.
  • amino acid surfactant types are taurate, glutamate, alanin or alaninate, sarcosinate, aspartate surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred are taurate, glutamate and sarcosinate surfactants and mixtures thereof. More preferred are taurates and glutamates and most preferred is glutamate type surfactants.
  • R 2 is H or methyl
  • M is H, sodium or potassium.
  • Suitable examples are potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, and sodium methyl stearoyl taurate and mixtures thereof.
  • potassium cocoyi taurate potassium methyl cocoyi taurate, sodium caproyi methyl taurate, sodium cocoyi taurate, sodium lauroyi taurate, sodium methyl cocoyi taurate and sodium methyl lauroyi taurate and mixtures thereof. More preferred are potassium cocoyi taurate, potassium methyl cocoyi taurate, sodium cocoyi taurate, sodium lauroyi taurate, sodium methyl cocoyi taurate and sodium methyl lauroyi taurate and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable glutamate surfactants are according to the general formula
  • R — C— N— C — (CH 2 ) 2 — COO M + wherein is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 7 to 17 C atoms, and more preferably 9 to 13 C atoms, and M is independent from each other H, sodium or potassium.
  • Suitable examples are dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyi glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyi glutamate, disodium lauroyi glutamate, disodium stearoyi glutamate, disodium undecylenoyi glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyi glutamate, potassium lauroyi glutamate, potassium myristoyi glutamate, potassium stearoyi glutamate, potassium undecylenoyi glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyi glutamate, sodium lauroyi glutamate, sodium myristoyi glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyi glutamate, and sodium undecylenoyi glutamate and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable alanine or alaninate surfactants are according to the general formula
  • R 2 is H or methyl and M is H, sodium or potassium.
  • Suitable examples are cocoyi methyl ⁇ -alanine, lauroyi ⁇ - alanine, lauroyi methyl ⁇ -alanine, myristoyi ⁇ -alanine, potassium lauroyi methyl ⁇ - alanine, sodium cocoyi alaninate, sodium cocoyi methyl ⁇ -alanine and sodium myristoyi methyl ⁇ - alanine and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable glycine surfactants are according to the general formula O H
  • M is H, sodium or potassium.
  • Suitable examples are palmitoyl glycine, sodium lauroyi glycine, sodium cocoyi glycine, sodium myristoyi glycine, potassium lauroyi glycine, and potassium cocoyi glycine and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable sarcosinate surfactants are according to the general formula
  • Suitable examples are potassium lauroyi sarcosinate, potassium cocoyi sarcosinate, sodium cocoyi sarcosinate, sodium lauroyi sarcosinate, sodium myristoyi sarcosinate, and sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred are potassium lauroyi sarcosinate, potassium cocoyi sarcosinate, sodium cocoyi sarcosinate, and sodium lauroyi sarcosinate and mixtures thereof. More preferred are sodium cocoyi sarcosinate, and sodium lauroyi sarcosinate and mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable aspartate surfactants are according to the general formula
  • Suitable examples are sodium lauroyi aspartate, sodium myristoyi aspartate, sodium cocoyi aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyi aspartate, disodium myristoyi aspartate, disodium cocoyi aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyi aspartate, potassium myristoyi aspartate, potassium cocoyi aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyi aspartate, dipotassium myristoyi aspartate, dipotassium cocoyi aspartate, and dipotassium caproyl aspartate and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred are sodium lauroyi aspartate, sodium myristoyi aspartate, sodium cocoyi aspartate, and sodium caproyl aspartate and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions of the present invention can also comprise mixture of several type of amino acid surfactants such as mixture of glutamate and taurate surfactants, or mixture of taurate, glutamate and sarcosinate surfactants etc.
  • Composition of the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric amide surfactant.
  • Suitable and preferred one are alkyi amido alkyi betaines according to the general structure
  • R 10 is a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 2 2-alkyl group, preferably Ci 0 -Ci 8 -alkyl group and more preferably Ci 0 -Ci 4 -alkyl group and n is 1 to 3.
  • Suitable amide amphoteric surfactants are alkylamidoalkyletaines such as lauramidopropyl betaine, decylamidopropyl betaine, myristylamidopropyl betaine behenamidopropyl betaine, lauramidoethyl betaine, oleylamidopropyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine and cocamidopropylbetaine which is the most preferred amide amphoteric surfactant.
  • alkylamidoalkyletaines such as lauramidopropyl betaine, decylamidopropyl betaine, myristylamidopropyl betaine behenamidopropyl betaine, lauramidoethyl betaine, oleylamidopropyl betaine, palmitamidopropyl betaine and cocamidopropylbetaine which is the most preferred amide amphoteric surfactant.
  • Concentration of at least one amide amphoteric surfactant is in the range of 1 to 15%, preferably 2 to 1 2%, more preferably 3 to 10% and most preferably 3 to 7.5% by weight calculated to the total content of the composition.
  • concentrations mentioned here are total concentration ranges in case more than one amide amphoteric surfactant is present.
  • Composition of the present invention comprises additionally at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • Nonionic surfactants are comprised at a concentration of 1 % to 15 %, preferably from 1 % to 10 % by weight, calculated to the total composition.
  • Nonionic surfactants preferred in the cleansing compositions according to the invention are alkyl polyglucosides of the general formula
  • R 8 -0-(R 9 0) n -Z x wherein R 8 is an alkyl group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R 9 is an ethylene or propylene group, Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms, n is a number from 0 to 10 and x is a number between 1 and 5.
  • R 8 is an alkyl group with 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 9 is an ethylene or propylene group
  • Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • n is a number from 0 to 10
  • x is a number between 1 and 5.
  • decyl polyglucoside cocoyl polyglucoside and lauryl polyglucoside.
  • nonionic surfactants are long-chain fatty acid dialkanolamides, such as coco fatty acid diethanolamide and myristic fatty acid diethanolamide.
  • Further additionally useful nonionic surfactants are, for example, the various sorbitan esters, such as polyethylene glycol sorbitan stearic acid ester, fatty acid polyglycol esters or poly-condensates of ethyleneoxide and propyleneoxide, as they are on the market, for example, under the trade name "Pluronics R ", as well as fatty alcohol ethoxylates.
  • Nonionic surfactants are amineoxides.
  • amineoxides are state of the art, for example Ci 2 -Ci 8 - alkyl dimethyl amineoxides such as lauryl dimethyl amineoxide, Ci 2 -Ci 8 - alkyl amidopropyl or -ethyl amineoxides, Ci 2 -Ci 8 -alkyl di(hydroxyethyl) or (hydroxypropyl) amineoxides, or also amineoxides with
  • amineoxides are on the market, for example, under the trade names "Ammonyx ® ", "Aromox ® “ or “Genaminox ® ".
  • Nonionic surfactants useful in the compositions according to invention are Ci 0 -C 22 -fatty alcohol ethoxylate.
  • Ci 0 -C 22 -fatty alcohol ethers the alkyl polyglycol ethers known by the generic terms "Laureth”, “Myristeth”, “Oleth”, “Ceteth”, “Deceth”, “Steareth” and “Ceteareth” according to the CTFA nomenclature, including addition of the number of ethylene oxide molecules, e.g., "Laureth-16":
  • the average degree of ethoxylation thereby ranges between about 2.5 and about 25, preferably about 10 and about 20.
  • the more preferred non-ionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides such as decyl, cocoyl polyglucoside and ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as laureth-16. Especially preferred are alkyl polyglucosides such as decyl, cocoyl polyglucoside.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise additional anionic and
  • amphoteric surfactants In principal any anionic surfactant other than mentioned above is suitable within the meaning of the present invention.
  • anionic surfactants of the sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate and alkyl phosphate type especially, of course, those customarily used in shampoo compositions, for example, the known C 10 -C 18 -alkyl sulfates, and in particular the respective ether sulfates, for example, Ci 2 -Ci 4 -alkyl ether sulfate, lauryl ether sulfate, especially with 1 to 4 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide sulfates obtained by ethoxylation and subsequent sulfatation of fatty acid alkanolamides, and the alkali salts thereof, as well as the salts of long-chain mono- and dialkyl phosphates constituting mild, skin-compatible detergents.
  • Additional anionic surfactants useful within the scope of the invention are a-olefin sulfonates or the salts thereof, and in particular alkali salts of sulfosuccinic acid semiesters, for example, the disodium salt of monooctyl sulfosuccinate and alkali salts of long-chain monoalkyl ethoxysulfosuccinates.
  • Suitable surfactants of the carboxylate type are alkyl polyether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof of the formula
  • R 7 (C 2 H 4 0) n - O - CH2COOX, wherein R 7 is a C 8 -C 2 o-alkyl group, preferably a Ci 2 -Ci 4 -alkyl group, n is a number from 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 1 7, and X is H or preferably a cation of the group sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium, which can optionally be
  • n is in particular a number from 1 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 5.
  • alkyl ether sulphates such as lauryl ether sulphate sodium salt.
  • Suitable additional amphoteric surfactants are as such are in particular the various known betaines such as alkyl betaines, and sulfobetaines, for example, lauryl hydroxysulfobetaine; long-chain alkyl amino acids, such as cocoaminoacetate, cocoaminopropionate and sodium cocoamphopropionate and -acetate have also proven suitable.
  • cleansing composition of the present invention comprises hair-conditioning agents.
  • Conditioning agents can be selected from oily substances, non-ionic substances, cationic amphiphilic ingredients, cationic polymers other than the one described above or their mixtures.
  • Oily substances are selected from such as silicone oils, either volatile or non-volatile, natural and synthetic oils.
  • silicone oils those can be added to the compositions include dimethicone, dimethiconol, polydimethylsiloxane, DC fluid ranges from Dow Corning, arylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicone or any other silicone with up to 5 aryl, preferably phenyl, group in its molecule such as trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, natural oils such as olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, wheatgerm oil, ricinus oil and the synthetic oils, such as mineral oil, isopropyl my- ristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate and oleyl erucate.
  • Non-ionic conditioning agents can be polyols such as glycerin, glycol and derivatives, polyethyleneglycoles known with trade names Carbowax PEG from Union Carbide and Polyox WSR range from Amerchol, polyglycerin, polyethyleneglycol mono or di fatty acid esters having general formula
  • cleansing compositions comprise at least one additional cationic polymer as a conditioning agent.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are those of best known with their CTFA category name
  • Polyquaternium Typical examples of those are Polyquaternium 1 , Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 4, Polyquaternium 5, Polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium 7,
  • Polyquaternium 8 Polyquaternium 9, Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 1 1 , Polyquaternium 12, Polyquaternium 13, Polyquaternium 14, Polyquaternium 15, Polyquaternium 16, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium 19, Polyquaternium 20, Polyquaternium 22, Polyquaternium 24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquaternium 28, Polyquaternium 29, Polyquaternium 30, Polyquaternium 31 , Polyquaternium 32, Polyquaternium 33, Polyquaternium 34, Polyquaternium 35 and Polyquaternium 36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium 39, Polyquaternium 42, Polyquaternium 43, Polyquaternium 44, Polyquaternium 45, Polyquaternium 46, Polyquaternium 47, Polyquaternium 48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium 50, Polyquaternium 51 , Polyquaternium 52, Polyquaternium 53, Polyquaternium 54, Polyquaternium 55, Polyquaternium 56, Polyquaternium 57, Polyquaternium 58,
  • cationic cellulose type polymers known as Polymer JR type from Amerchol such as Polyquaternium 10 or cationic galactomannans such as cationic guar gum known with trade name Jaguar from Rhone-Poulenc which are chemically for example Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride and cationic tara gum an its derivatives known with I NCI name Caesalpinia spinosa hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, are preferred ones.
  • chitosan and chitin can also be included in the compositions as cationic natural polymers. In this context reference is also made to the cationic polymers disclosed in DE
  • cationic polymers are those of cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, cationic Caesalpinia spinosa gum derivatives, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 67 and polyquaternium 70.
  • the cationic polymers also include the quaternized products of graft polymers from organopolysiloxanes and polyethyl oxazolines described in EP-A 524 612 and EP-A 640 643.
  • Composition of the present invention comprises cationic polymer at a concentration of 0.01 to 5%, preferably 0.02 to 4%, more preferably 0.05 to 3% and most preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • cleansing compositions of the present invention may comprise additionally one or more cationic surfactant(s) as conditioner according to the general formula
  • R 13 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 8-24 C atoms or
  • R 17 is saturated or unsaturated, branched or non-branched alkyl chain with 7-
  • n has value of 1 - 4,
  • Ri5 and R 16 are lower alkyl chain with 1 to 4 carbon atoms which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and X is anion such as chloride, bromide, methosulfate.
  • Typical examples of those ingredients are cetyl trimethly ammonium chloride, stear trimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimonuim chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise further conditioning substances such as protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides, e.g., keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type “Nutrilan R " or elastin hydrolyzates, as well as also in particular plant protein hydrolyzates, optionally, cationized protein hydrolyzates, e.g., "Gluadin R ".
  • protein hydrolyzates and polypeptides e.g., keratin hydrolyzates, collagen hydrolyzates of the type "Nutrilan R " or elastin hydrolyzates
  • plant protein hydrolyzates e.g., cationized protein hydrolyzates, e.g., "Gluadin R ".
  • aqueous cleansing composition comprises at least one organic solvent such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, alkylene carbonates such as ethylene carbonate and propylene carbonate, phenoxyethanol, butanol, isobutanol, cyclohexane, cyclohexanol, hexyleneglycol, ethylenecarbonate, propylene-glycol, polypropyleneglycols, ethyleneglycol monoethylether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, 1 -phenylethylalcohol, 2-phenylethylalcohol, o-methoxyphenol.
  • organic solvent such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol, alkylene carbonates such as ethylene carbonate and prop
  • Total concentration of organic solvents in the shampoo composition should not exceed 5% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.1 to 3%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • Aqueous cleansing composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one fatty alcohol of the following formula
  • Re - OH wherein R 6 is straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 8 to 24, preferably 10 to 22, more preferably 12 to 18 and most preferably 12 to 16C atoms at a concentration of 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 4% and more preferably 0.25 to 3% and most preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • Suitable non-limiting preferred examples are decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures. More preferred are decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and stearyl alcohol. Most preferred are decyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol, and their mixtures.
  • concentration of those can typically be from 0.1 to 3%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
  • concentration of those can typically be from 0.1 to 3%, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
  • These compounds are preferably added to the compositions in admixture with anionic, nonionic and/or amphoteric
  • surfactants Such kinds of mixtures are available commercially. Solubilizers may be added to the compositions especially when oily substances are chosen as conditioning agents and fragrance oils with highly lipophilic properties.
  • Typical solubilizers may be hydrogenated castor oil known with the trade mark Cremophor CO series from BASF. It should be noted that as well the surfactant mixture can be a good solubilizer for fragrance oils.
  • Typical concentration of the solubilizers can be in the range of 0.01 - 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 1 % by weight, calculated to total composition.
  • the cleansing composition may contain active ingredients selected from UV filters, moisturisers, sequestering agents, and natural ingredients.
  • the moisturizing agents are selected from panthenol, polyols, such as glycerol, polyethylene glycols with molecular weight 200 to 20,000.
  • the moisturizing ingredients can be included in the conditioner compositions at a concentration range of 0.01 - 2.5% by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • the sequestering agents are preferably selected from polycarboxy acids.
  • the preferred one is ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid, EDTA. Typical useful
  • concentration range for sequestering agents is of 0.01 - 2.5% by weight calculated to the total composition.
  • the UV filters are that oil and water soluble ones for the purpose of protecting hair and hair colour.
  • anionic and non-ionic, oily, UV filters are suitably used in the compositions of the present invention.
  • Suitable UV-absorbing substances is are: 4-Aminobenzoic acid and the esters and salts thereof, 2-phenyl
  • benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and the alkali and amine salts thereof 4-dimethyl aminobenzoic acid and the esters and salts thereof, cinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof, 4-methoxycinnamic acid and the esters and salts thereof, salicylic acid and the esters and salts thereof, 2.4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2.2'.4.4'-tetrahydroxy- benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and its 5-sulfonic acid or the sodium salt thereof, 2.2'-dihydroxy-4.4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-5- chlorobenzophenone, 2.2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2.2'-dihydroxy-4.4'- dimethoxy-5.5'-disulfobenzo-phenone or the sodium salt thereof, 2-hydroxy-4- octyloxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenz
  • Natural plant extracts are incorporated usually in an amount of about 0.01 % to about 10 %, preferably 0.05 % to 7.5 %, in particular 0.1 % to 5 % by weight, calculated as dry residue thereof to the total composition.
  • Suitable aqueous e.g.
  • alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic plant extracts known per se are in particular extracts from leaves, fruits, blossoms, roots, rinds or stems of aloe, pineapple, artichoke, arnica, avocado, valerian, bamboo, henbane, birch, stinging nettle, echinacea, ivy, wild angelica, gentian, ferns, pine needles, silver weed, ginseng, broom, oat, rose hip, hamamelis, hay flowers, elderberry, hop, coltsfoot, currants, chamomile, carrots, chestnuts, clover, burr root, cocoanut, cornflower, lime blossom, lily of the valley, marine algae, balm, mistletoe, passion flower, ratanhia, marigold, rosemary, horse chestnut, pink hawthorn, sage, horsetail, yarrow, primrose, nettle, thyme, walnut, wine leaves, white hawthorn, etc.
  • compositions of the present invention may comprise further at least one compound according to the formula
  • n is a number from 1 to 1 0.
  • compositions of the present invention can certainly comprise more than one ubichinone.
  • Preferred ubichinones are the ones where n is a number between 6 and 10 and especially preferred is Ubichinone 50 where n is 10, also known as Coenzyme Q10.
  • Concentration ubichinone of the above formula in the compositions is from 0.0001 to 1 %, preferably from 0.0002 to 0.75%, more preferably from 0.0002 to 0.5% and most preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to total composition.
  • Cleansing compositions of the present invention can also comprise synthetic mica as a further shine enhancer.
  • Suitable metal oxide or oxides for coating synthetic mica are titanium dioxide, chromium oxide, ferric oxide or mixtures thereof.
  • the preferred is synthetic mice coated with titanium dioxide.
  • Such materials are commercially available from Sun Chemical Corporation and known with their I NCI names Synthetic Fluorphologopite.
  • Concentration of synthetic mica coated with at least metal oxide or oxides is from 0.001 to 10%, preferably 0.05 to 7.5%, more preferably 0.1 to 5% and most preferably 0.20 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • compositions comprise at least one direct dye and as well deposit dyestuffs onto hair.
  • Suitable direct dyes are of cationic, anionic and neutral nitro dyes. It should be noted that they can also be used in combination with each other.
  • a composition according to present invention can comprise an anionic and a cationic dye as well as an anionic and a nitro dye or a cationic and a nitro dye. Certainly the combination of all three dyestuff categories is also possible.
  • Any cationic direct dye is in principal suitable for the compositions.
  • Examples are Basic Blue 6, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 9, Basic Blue 26, Basic Blue 41 , Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 4, Basic Brown 1 6, Basic Brown 17, Natural Brown 7, Basic Green 1 , Basic Orange 31 , Basic Red 2, Basic Red 12 Basic Red 22, Basic Red 51 , Basic Red 76, Basic Violet 1 , Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 1 0, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57 and Basic Yellow 87, and mixtures thereof
  • Any anionic dye is in principal suitable for the compositions. Suitable examples are such as Acid Black 1 , Acid Blue 1 , Acid Blue 3, Food Blue 5, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 74, Acid Orange 3, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Red 1 , Acid Red 14, Acid Red 1 8, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 50, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 88, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 155, Acid Red 180, Acid Violet 9, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Yellow 1 , Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 3, Food Yellow No. 8, D&C Brown No. 1 , D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 8, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 1 1 , D&C Red No.
  • the preferred anionic dyestuffs are Acid Red 52, Acid Violet 2, Acid Red 33, Acid Orange 4, Acid Red 27 and Acid Yellow 10 and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the most preferred anionic dyes are Acid Red 52, Acid Violet 2, Acid Red 33, Acid Orange 4 and Acid Yellow 1 0, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Neutral dyes so called nitro dyes for shading purposes are also optionally contained in the compositions. Suitable ones are HC Blue No.2, HC Blue No.4, HC Blue No.5, HC Blue No.6, HC Blue No.7, HC Blue No.8, HC Blue No.9, HC Blue No.10, HC Blue No.1 1 , HC Blue No.12, HC Blue No.13, HC Brown No.1 , HC Brown No.2, HC Green No.1 , HC Orange No.1 , HC Orange No.2, HC Orange No.3, HC Orange No.5, HC Red BN, HC Red No.1 , HC Red No.3, HC Red No.7, HC Red No.8, HC Red No.9, HC Red No.10, HC Red No.1 1 , HC Red No.13, HC Red No.54, HC Red No.14, HC Violet BS, HC Violet No.1 , HC Violet No.2, HC Yellow No.2, HC
  • Concentration of one or more direct dyes in total is in the range of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 4% more preferably 0.05 to 3% and most preferably 0.1 to 2.5% by weight calculated to total composition.
  • the most preferred among the direct dyes is cationic direct dyes.
  • the shampoos according to the invention may comprise other substances customarily used in such compositions such as preservatives, fragrances.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the present invention is suitably between 2 and 8.0, preferably in the range of 2.5 to 7.0, more preferably 3 to 6.5 and most preferably 4 to 5.5 measured at ambient temperature with a suitable pH meter. pH of the compositions is adjusted with acidic and alkaline compounds.
  • Acidic compounds can be inorganic and organic acid or their mixtures. Nonlimiting suitable examples are citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, hydroxyacrylic acid, glyceric acid, malic acid and tartaric acid and of the dicarboxylic acids are malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid and phtalic acid.
  • Alkaline compounds such as sodium hydroxide can be used to adjust the pH of the compositions.
  • Aqueous cleansing composition of the present invention preferably comprises one or more thickeners. Suitable ones are ethoxylated polyglyceryl esters with total ethoxy units in the range of 50 to 200 and fatty acyl chain length of 8 to 22 C atoms such as PEG-80 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-120 glyceryl stearate, PEG-200 glyceryl stearate, PEG-80 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-82 glyceryl tallowate, PEG-130 glyceryl tallowate, and PEG-200 glyceryl tallowate, gylceryl oleate/cocoate and inorganic salt in particular sodium chloride when especially composition comprise alkyl ether sulphate type of surfactants.
  • Cleansing compositions of the present invention preferably has a viscosity in the range of 500 to 20,000 mPa.s, more preferably 1 ,000 to 15,000 mPa.s and most preferably 1 ,500 to 10,000 mPa.s measured at 20 °C with a Brookfield viscosimetre using fro example Spindle 5 at appropriate rotation speed.
  • the following examples are to illustrate the invention, but not to limit.
  • the products according to the invention are prepared by mixing the individual components in water, whereby it is also possible to use pre-mixtures of various ingredients.
  • Shampoo compositions A and C to E are according to the invention and B represents a comparative composition.
  • Hair tresses were coloured with a commercially available oxidative colouring composition comprising oxidative and direct dyes.
  • the tresses so coloured were washed 10 times with above compositions and before starting the test and afterwards L, a and b values were measured. With the help of the known equation ⁇ values were calculated to present colour difference numerically.
  • the above composition has excellent creamy rich foam and conditions hair excellently in terms of combability and soft hair feeling.
  • the above composition gives hair a red shine, and additionally delivers excellent conditioning effect in terms of more elasticity, combability, shine and soft hair feeling in addition to the excellent creamy rich foam.
  • the composition foams very quickly.
  • Synthetic fluorphologopite used is commercially available from Sun Chemical Corporation under the trade name SunShine Glitter White with a particle size distribution in the range of 20 to 95 ⁇ .
  • the above composition delivered excellent volume and shine to dark blonde fine hair. Foam characteristics were found to be excellent in terms of volume, speed and creaminess in a monadic test.

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EP12721562.2A 2011-06-10 2012-05-22 Haarreinigungsmittelzusammensetzung Not-in-force EP2717840B1 (de)

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EP12721562.2A EP2717840B1 (de) 2011-06-10 2012-05-22 Haarreinigungsmittelzusammensetzung
PCT/EP2012/059430 WO2012168060A1 (en) 2011-06-10 2012-05-22 Hair cleansing composition

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