EP3638203A1 - Kosmetische zusammensetzungen mit natürlichen extrakten und verwendungen dafür - Google Patents

Kosmetische zusammensetzungen mit natürlichen extrakten und verwendungen dafür

Info

Publication number
EP3638203A1
EP3638203A1 EP18735672.0A EP18735672A EP3638203A1 EP 3638203 A1 EP3638203 A1 EP 3638203A1 EP 18735672 A EP18735672 A EP 18735672A EP 3638203 A1 EP3638203 A1 EP 3638203A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pinus
abies
extract
composition
branch portion
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18735672.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Arnaud Sinan Karaboga
Michel Souchet
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Harmonic Pharma
Original Assignee
Harmonic Pharma
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Harmonic Pharma filed Critical Harmonic Pharma
Publication of EP3638203A1 publication Critical patent/EP3638203A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9755—Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/347—Phenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9755—Gymnosperms [Coniferophyta]
    • A61K8/9767—Pinaceae [Pine family], e.g. pine or cedar
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the field of natural extracts and in particular extracts of branch part. More particularly, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such extracts and their uses for combating the signs of skin aging and / or for reinforcing the cutaneous barrier.
  • Skin aging is determined by genetic and environmental factors.
  • intrinsic aging or chronological, which affects the skin and corresponds to the inevitable modifications of the latter related to the age.
  • extrinsic aging which corresponds to clinical, histological and functional changes characteristic of the skin linked to environmental factors such as exposure to the sun, pollution, tobacco, etc., and which thus occupies more especially on exposed areas.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • Oxidative stress is similar to an excess of free radicals present in the body and excessively produced by various physiological mechanisms or exogenous toxic phenomena such as tobacco, pollution or exposure to UV.
  • ROS and free radicals can thus be generated in particular by cellular metabolism, such as mitochondrial respiration, xenobiotic detoxification and solar radiation.
  • oxidative stress plays a vital role in aging skin. Indeed, the degradation of lipids and cutaneous proteins under the effect of oxidative stress causes sagging skin, the formation of wrinkles and pigment spots, and a loss of elasticity of the skin and radiance of the complexion. In addition, it was observed that nitric oxide produced in excess during an imbalance of the redox balance, that is to say during a state of oxidative stress, inhibited the synthesis of the proteins necessary for corneification of the epidermis and thus disrupted the barrier function of the skin.
  • WO 2007/096089 provides cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising hydroxymatairsinol for lightening the skin of age spots or for the prevention of tanning of the skin caused especially by UV rays.
  • the inventors have developed new cosmetic compositions comprising a branch portion extract enriched in polyphenols, which have interesting antioxidant properties to fight against the signs of skin aging and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier.
  • the inventors have demonstrated by different methods that the branch portion extract included in the compositions of the invention has antioxidant and antiradical activities superior to the activities of the reference compounds such as pycnogenol, ⁇ -tocopherol (Vitamin E), but also the activities of its main metabolites such as enterolactone and enterodiol.
  • the subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, in particular for combating the signs of skin aging and / or for reinforcing the cutaneous barrier, comprising a branch portion extract in a cosmetically acceptable medium, in which said part extract of branch comprises at least about 50% by weight of polyphenols and less than about 10% by weight of terpenes, based on the total weight of the extract.
  • the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of such a composition for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure to UV, tobacco and or the pollution and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention.
  • Figure 1 Evaluation of the antiradical activity of the extract according to the invention (natural extract), hydroxymatairsinol (HMR), enterodiol, enterolactone, and pycnogenol by the DPPH method.
  • Figure 2 Evaluation of the antioxidant activity of the extract according to the invention (natural extract) and its main metabolites (enterodiol and enterolactone), expressed in trolox equivalent (square units) and vitamin E (dotted line).
  • FIG. 3 Evaluation of the total antioxidant capacity of the extract according to the invention (natural extract), of pycnogenol, and of hydroxymatairsinol (HMR), expressed in millimoles of total antioxidant per gram of product, by PAOT technology. POT ® .
  • FIG. 4 Evaluation of the total antioxidant efficacy of the extract according to the invention (natural extract) and of its main metabolites (enterodiol and enterolactone), expressed in millimoles of total antioxidant per gram of product, using PAOT / POT ® .
  • the inventors have developed and identified novel compositions comprising a branch portion extract in a cosmetically acceptable medium, wherein said branch portion extract comprises at least about 50% by weight of polyphenols and less than about 10% by weight of terpenes, based on the total weight of the extract.
  • the cosmetic composition comprising such a branch portion extract has a high antioxidant and antiradical power and can thus be used in cosmetic applications, in particular to fight against the signs of skin aging and / or to reinforce the barrier skin.
  • polyphenols present in the branch portion extract of the invention have an antioxidant and antiradical potency superior to their metabolites, thus illustrating an improved efficacy of the topical route for combating the signs of skin aging and / or strengthening the cutaneous barrier compared to an oral route that metabolizes these polyphenols.
  • the branch portion extract according to the invention is obtained by a standard extraction method of a branch portion of the trees, preferably softwoods comprising the following steps: (a) extraction, (b) liquid / solid separation (filtration), (c) concentration, and (d) drying.
  • the branch portion extract is a dry extract.
  • the term "branch portion” refers to that portion of the tree excluding the trunk.
  • Part of a branch includes, for example, leaves, bark, stems, buds, and knots of wood.
  • the "branch part” excludes the nodes of the wood.
  • the "branch part” comprises the leaves, the bark, the stems and the buds, and is in particular devoid of knots of the wood.
  • the branch portion extract of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprises at least about 50%, 60%, 70%, preferably 80%, more preferably at least about 90% by weight of polyphenols and less than about 10%, 8%, 6%, preferably less than about 5% by weight of terpenes, based on the total weight of the extract.
  • Polyphenols are a structural class of chemical compounds characterized by the presence of large numbers of phenol structural units. Polyphenols can also be called "lignan” when they are present in plants. As an example of polyphenol or lignane present in softwoods, the following can be mentioned:
  • HMR hydroxymatairsinol
  • the polyphenols of the branch portion extract according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of hydroxymatairsinol (HMR), lariciresinol, secoisolariciresinol and their epimers.
  • HMR hydroxymatairsinol
  • lariciresinol lariciresinol
  • secoisolariciresinol epimers
  • epimer refers to diastereoisomers which differ in configuration by a single stereogenic center.
  • diastereoisomer refers to a class of non-superimposable stereoisomers without a mirror image of another.
  • epimeres of hydroxymatairsinol denote the diastereoisomers 7S, 8R, 8'R and 7R, 8R, 8'R as illustrated in the following formula:
  • the branch portion extract according to the invention comprises:
  • the branch portion extract of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention having an improved antioxidant effect is enriched in polyphenols compared to terpenes, and in particular comprises less than about 10% by weight of terpenes, based on the total weight of the terpenes. 'extract.
  • Terpenes are a large, diverse class of organic compounds, produced by various plants, especially softwoods.
  • the terpenes are derived by biosynthesis from isoprene units of molecular formula represented by the following formula:
  • terpenes present in softwoods o-guaicol, terpin hydrate, vanillin, 2,5-dimethylbenzenebutanoic acid, conifeyl alcohol, tumérone, juvabione, dehydrojuvabione, manol, and eucalyptol (1,8-cineol) can be mentioned.
  • the branch portion extract of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise any other compound present in softwoods in a small amount such as the terpenes as mentioned above, and, typically, eucalyptol (1,8- cineol).
  • eucalyptol is known for its toxicity, it is preferably present in small amounts, preferably less than about 10% by weight, more preferably less than about 2, and more preferably less than about 1% by weight. relative to the total weight of the extract.
  • the branch portion extract comprises less than 1% by weight of eucalyptol, based on the total weight of the extract.
  • the branch portion extract of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a tree extract selected from Abies alba, Picea abies, Betula pendula, Pinus sylvestris, Abies sibirica, Pinus sibirica, Abies balsamea , Thuja occidentalis, Northern white-cedar, Pinus cembra, Pseudotsuga menziesii, Larix decidua, Picea glauca, Picea mariana, Picea pingens, Abies pectinata, Abies lasiocarpa, Pinus banksiana, Pinus nigra, Pinus pinaster, Pinus resinosa, Larix lariciana, Larix sibirica , Thuja plicata, Fagus sylvatica, Populus alba, Populus nigra, Populus tremula, Populus tremulus, Tsuga hetewphylla, Pinus cont
  • the branch portion extract is derived from at least one softwood, preferably selected from Abies alba, Picea abies, Pinus sylvestris, Abies sibirica, Pinus sibirica, Abies balsamea, Thuja occidentalis, Northern white- cedar, Pinus cembra, Pseudotsuga menziesii, Larix decidua, Picea glauca, Picea mariana, Picea pingens, Abies pectinata, Abies lasiocarpa, Pinus banksiana, Pinus nigra, Pinus pinaster, Pinus resinosa, Larix lariciana, Larix sibirica, Thuja plicata, Tsuga hetewphylla, Pinus contorta, Juniperus virginiana, and their mixtures. More preferably, the branch portion extract is a branch portion to Abies alba and / or Picea abies.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises a branch portion extract as described above in a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • This composition comprising such an extract is therefore particularly suitable for combating the signs of cutaneous aging and / or reinforcing the cutaneous barrier.
  • the branch portion extract as described in the present application is an active ingredient of the cosmetic composition.
  • the branch portion extract as described in the present application is the sole active ingredient of the cosmetic composition.
  • the branch portion extract is therefore not used in the cosmetic composition as a simple excipient, for example by playing a possible role of stabilizer of the cosmetic composition by virtue of its antioxidant properties.
  • the branch part extract plays a role of principle or active ingredient in the cosmetic composition by providing it with the antioxidant and antiradical properties useful for combating the signs of skin aging and / or to strengthen the skin barrier.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least about 0.1, preferably at least about 1, at least about 5, at least about 10, and even more preferably between about 10% and 50%. weight of the branch portion extract as described above with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium compatible with the skin and the mucous membranes, that is to say a non-toxic medium tolerated by the subject which, for example, does not generate tingling, irritation, allergic response or redness inconsistent with cosmetic use.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium of a composition according to the invention may comprise any excipient known to those skilled in the art and adapted to the type of application of the composition.
  • quaternary ammoniums such as benzalkonium chloride; phenoxyethanol; benzyl alcohol; diazolidinylurea; parabens, such as methylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben; benzoic acid and its sodium or potassium salts such as sodium benzoate; sorbic acid and its sodium or potassium salts such as potassium sorbate; mercurial derivatives such as phenylmercury salts (acetate, borate or nitrate) or thiomersal; or their mixtures.
  • humectants mention may in particular be made of glycerine and sorbitol.
  • propenetrating agents mention may in particular be made of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol dipelargonate, lauroglycol and ethoxydiglycol.
  • oils in particular mineral oils (vaseline oil), oils of vegetable origin (avocado oil, soybean), oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), silicone oils (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers).
  • mineral oils vaseline oil
  • oils of vegetable origin oils of vegetable origin
  • lanolin oils of animal origin
  • synthetic oils perhydrosqualene
  • silicone oils cyclomethicone
  • fluorinated oils perfluoropolyethers
  • fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, fatty acids, waxes and gums, in particular silicone gums, as fatty substances.
  • emulsifiers and coemulsifiers examples include fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid esters of polyol such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60, for example; and their mixtures.
  • gelling agents mention may be made of the family of polyacrylamides, such as the mixture Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80 sold under the name Simulgel TM 600 by the company Seppic TM, the polyacrylamide / isoparaffin mixture C13-14 / laureth-7, for example for example, the product sold under the name Sepigel 305 TM by the company Seppic TM, the family of acrylic polymers coupled to hydrophobic chains, such as the PEG-150 / decyl / SMDI copolymer sold under the name Aculyn 44 TM (polycondensate comprising less as elements, a polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture (39%) and water (26)), the family of modified starches such as modified
  • thickening agent mention may be made of polysaccharides such as xanthan gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenans such as ⁇ -carrageenan, ⁇ -carrageenan or i-carrageenan, galactomannans such as locust bean seed meal, guar seed meal or tara seed meal, gellan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, pectin, starch and its derivatives obtained by esterification or etherification, and tamarind; cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, ethylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose; and carboxyvinyl polymers of Carbopol ® type.
  • carrageenans such as ⁇ -carrageenan, ⁇ -carrageenan or i-carrageenan
  • galactomannans such as loc
  • the administration of the cosmetic composition may be carried out orally, topically, parenterally, subcutaneously, epicutaneously, intradermally, transdermally, intramuscularly, enterally, intranasally, intrasfinctively or by nasal inhalation, preferably topically.
  • the cosmetic composition is a topical or dermatological composition.
  • the composition according to the invention can also be called a dermo-cosmetic composition.
  • This topical composition can therefore be in any form suitable for topical application to the skin. It is thus envisaged compositions in the form of solutions, lotions, gels, ointments, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (H / E) or conversely (W / O), or powders, soaked swabs, sprays, suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-liquid or solid consistency of the cream, ointment or micro-emulsion, micro-capsule type , microparticles or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. It can also be in the form of microspheres or nanospheres or lipid or polymeric vesicles or in the form of polymeric patches and hydrogel
  • the topical cosmetic composition is in the form of a gel, a lotion, or a cream.
  • the cosmetic composition further comprises an anti-aging active ingredient.
  • anti-aging active agents include: ascorbic acid, its salts, its ethers and its esters, especially ascorbyl glucoside; adenosine; ribose; honey extracts; proteins and glycoproteins, extracted in particular from sweet almonds; hydrolysed vegetable proteins, in particular derived from rice, hibiscus seeds or lupine; polypeptides and dipeptide such as carcinine hydrochloride, pentapeptide-4 palmitoyl (Pal-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser) and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 sold for example by Sederma under the trade names Matrixyl ® 3000 and Matrixyl ® Synthe'6, respectively, the palmitoyl tripeptide-8 marketed by LUCAS MEYER under
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one tensor polymer, that is to say able to stretch the skin by mechanical action and thus reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
  • tensor polymer may be a synthetic or natural polymer, in particular a polysaccharide, especially an extract of seaweed or marine plankton or a vegetable gum.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is adapted to fight against the signs of skin aging and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier.
  • the signs of skin aging result, for example, in the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin, loss of radiance of the complexion. These signs may be due to factors intrinsic to age but also by extrinsic factors such as UV exposure, tobacco, and pollution.
  • the present invention therefore also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure to UV, tobacco and / or pollution and / or to reinforce the skin barrier.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for combating the signs of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles, sagging skin and loss of radiance of the complexion, due in particular to exposure to UV, tobacco and / or to pollution and / or to reinforce the cutaneous barrier, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition as defined above.
  • This composition can be applied one or more times a day, for example morning and / or evening on the areas to be treated.
  • the branch part extract obtained above is formulated in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention by any method known to those skilled in the art for formulating cosmetic compositions.
  • those skilled in the art will be able to adapt the cosmetically acceptable medium in which the branch part extract will be added in order to obtain the type of formulation desired.
  • the free radical DPPH has a violet color which becomes yellow when it is reduced in the presence of radical compounds.
  • the intensity of the color is inversely proportional to the antiradical activity of the compounds tested.
  • Various dilutions of bee samples dissolved in methanol were added to 3.9 ml of a methanolic solution of DPPH-6, 1x10 -5 M.
  • the initial true DPPH concentration (C DPPH) in the medium of The reaction was calculated using a standard curve and the bleaching of DPPH was monitored at 517 nm (spectrophotometer) for 30 minutes against a blank sample consisting of all reagents except DPPH.
  • HMR hydroxymatairsinol
  • enterodiol enterolactone
  • pycnogenol® extract of French maritime pine bark, reference antioxidant compound
  • the antiradical activity is expressed as an EC50 value (the EC50 value most s small corresponds to the strongest antioxidant activity).
  • the antioxidant activity of the branch portion extract according to the invention is greater than that of HMR, enterodiol, enterolactone, and pycnogenol.
  • the total antioxidant activity of the extract according to the invention derives from its capacity to inhibit the radical ABTS + , obtained from ABTS (ammonium salt of 2,2'-azinobis acid). ethylbenzothiazolin-6-ulfonic)) compared to a reference antioxidant compound (pycnogenol®, ⁇ -tocopherol, Trolox) and its metabolites (enterodiol and enterolactone).
  • the ABTS cationic radical (ABTS + ) was produced by reacting a stock solution of 7 mM ABTS with 2.45 mM potassium persulfate and allowing the mixture to stand in dim light at room temperature for 12 minutes. h before use.
  • the ABTS ⁇ + solution was then diluted with PBS (phosphate buffered saline) (pH 7.4) to an absorbance of 0.5 at 734 nm and equilibrated at 30 ° C.
  • the natural extract according to the invention shows the smallest EC50 value (concentration effective to eliminate 50% of ABTS at equilibrium) with a value of 0.020 mg / ml in this test, as indicated in the Table. 1 below.
  • Table 1 EC50 values obtained in the TEAC test
  • Figure 2 highlights the striking divergence in antioxidant efficacy between the branch part extract and its major metabolites.
  • the antioxidant activity of 1 g of the natural extract is equivalent to 1.07 g of trolox (square units) and 1.53 g of vitamin E (dotted line) while the antioxidant activity of 1 g of of enterolactone is equivalent to 0.13 g of trolox (square units) and 0.19 g of vitamin E (dotted), and the antioxidant activity of 1 g of enterodiol is equivalent to 0.15 g of trolox ( square patterns) and 0.22 g of vitamin E (dotted line).
  • Measurement of antioxidant capacity by the ORAC method is based on the detection of the fluorescence of a fluorescein drop (FL) by its reaction with the peroxyl ROO * radical, in a food matrix containing antioxidant compounds.
  • the fluorescence was read at an excitation wavelength of 485 nm and at an emission filter of 528 nm.
  • the AAPH solution and FL were prepared in a 75 mM phosphate buffer solution, pH 7.4.
  • the control of this reaction is trolox which is also prepared in the same buffer.
  • Six different amounts (10, 20, 35, 50, 70, 80 ⁇ ) of product at a concentration of 0.5 mg / L were placed in the wells of a microplate with the FL and adjusted to the same volume with the solution. buffer (80 ⁇ ).
  • the antioxidant activity of 1 gram of the branch part extract is respectively equivalent to the total antioxidant power of 2,400 ⁇ of trolox, 1,300 ⁇ of vitamin C, 1,200 ⁇ of vit. E (tocopherol), and 310 ⁇ of ⁇ -carotene.
  • the antioxidant activity of the branch part extract is much greater than the antioxidant activity of 1 g of pycnogenol, 1 g of hydroxymatairsinol (HMR) and 1 g of the metabolites of the natural extract (enterodiol and enterolactone).
  • PAOT / POT® Total Antioxidant / Total Oxidative Power
  • the overall antioxidant efficacy of the natural extract according to the invention (10.31 mmol / g in antioxidant equivalents) is, against all odds, better than that of pycnogenol (8.82 mmol / g in equivalents antioxidant), and HMR (4.99 mmol / g in antioxidant equivalents).
  • Table 3 summarizes the antioxidant activity values of the natural extract, pycnogenol, and HMR compared to reference antioxidant compounds, namely, vitamin E (tocopherol), trolox, and ⁇ -carotene.
  • the branch part extract shows the best antioxidant activity among the products tested. Indeed, 1 gram of branch part extract according to the invention is the equivalent in terms of antioxidant efficacy of 2.2 g of vitamin E, 1.29 g of trolox, and 5.53 g of ⁇ -carotene.
  • FIG. 4 underlines the divergence in terms of effectiveness between the branch part extract according to the invention and its main metabolites in this test, expressed in millimoles of total antioxidant per gram of product (measurement of the overall antioxidant characteristic of products tested, the highest value corresponds to the best antioxidant efficacy).
  • the inventors have unexpectedly shown that the total antioxidant efficacy of the branch part extract (10.31 mmol / g in antioxidant equivalents) was at least ten times greater than the antioxidant efficacy of its metabolites ( enterodiol (1.07 mmol / g antioxidant equivalents) and enterolactone (1.06 mmol / g antioxidant equivalents)).
  • the inventors have demonstrated that the branch part extract according to the invention has a higher antioxidant activity compared to the activities of the reference compounds such as pycnogenol, -tocopherol (Vitamin E), and trolox (analog of Vitamin E), thus demonstrating improved cosmetic efficacy for treating the signs of skin aging and / or for reinforcing the cutaneous barrier.
  • the reference compounds such as pycnogenol, -tocopherol (Vitamin E), and trolox (analog of Vitamin E)
  • the branch portion extract according to the invention has superior antioxidant activity compared to of its main metabolites (enterolactone and enterodiol), thus demonstrating improved efficacy for topical administration of the cosmetic composition that avoids the processes of metabolizing the active ingredients.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP18735672.0A 2017-06-13 2018-06-12 Kosmetische zusammensetzungen mit natürlichen extrakten und verwendungen dafür Withdrawn EP3638203A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1755261A FR3067249B1 (fr) 2017-06-13 2017-06-13 Compositions cosmetiques comprenant des extraits naturels et leurs utilisations
PCT/FR2018/051360 WO2018229410A1 (fr) 2017-06-13 2018-06-12 Compositions cosmetiques comprenant des extraits naturels et leurs utilisations

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3638203A1 true EP3638203A1 (de) 2020-04-22

Family

ID=59859219

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18735672.0A Withdrawn EP3638203A1 (de) 2017-06-13 2018-06-12 Kosmetische zusammensetzungen mit natürlichen extrakten und verwendungen dafür

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3638203A1 (de)
FR (1) FR3067249B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2018229410A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115590809A (zh) * 2022-10-20 2023-01-13 山东元裕生物科技有限公司（Cn） 一种修复问题肌肤的组合物、制备方法及应用
CN117224452B (zh) * 2023-11-15 2024-03-22 露乐健康科技股份有限公司 含有植物芽提取物的温和护肤组合物及其在守护皮肤屏障上的应用

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10218476A1 (de) * 2002-04-25 2003-11-06 Beiersdorf Ag Zubereitungen mit Lignanen
FI20021184A7 (fi) * 2002-06-19 2003-12-20 Hormos Medical Ltd Lignaanivalmisteita
FI116727B (sv) * 2003-11-12 2006-02-15 Arbonova Ab Oy Ny användning för kvistnötsextrakt
DE102006008769A1 (de) 2006-02-22 2007-08-23 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Hydroxymatairesinol zur Hautaufhellung von Altersflecken bzw. zur Verhinderung der Hautbräunung, insbesondere der durch UV-Strahlung hervorgerufenen Hautbräunung

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3067249A1 (fr) 2018-12-14
WO2018229410A1 (fr) 2018-12-20
FR3067249B1 (fr) 2020-07-31

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1820492B1 (de) Schützende und regenerierende Zusammensetzung
JP2021147335A (ja) ニトロ化タンパク質分解剤
EP2170358A2 (de) Age-deglykierung
LU100904B1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait de passiflore et des cellules d'edelweiss et utilisations
EP2170307A2 (de) Hemmung von age-bildung
WO2021156104A1 (fr) Procédé d'obtention d'un extrait aqueux de lavande, compositions comprenant un tel extrait et leurs utilisations cosmétiques
FR2928263A1 (fr) Procede de traitement cosmetique a base de polyphenols de fruits ou de legumes
WO2001087254A1 (fr) Utilisation de l'acide ellagique comme agent cosmetique anti-pollution
FR2779645A1 (fr) Compositions a usage cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique contenant un melange d'extrait de cafe vert et de beurre de karite
EP3478368A1 (de) Zusammensetzung zur bekämpfung der anzeichen der alterung der haut und haare und nägel
EP3579929B1 (de) Marsdenia cundurango
EP3269426B1 (de) Rosskastanienextrakt
EP3638203A1 (de) Kosmetische zusammensetzungen mit natürlichen extrakten und verwendungen dafür
FR3051369B1 (fr) Extraits de faine de hetre, compositions et utilisations
EP2431356B1 (de) Peptidomimetischen Derivaten vom Methionin sowie ihre Verwendung zur Schützung von den Hautzellen
WO2019077268A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique de prévention active des signes de l'âge
EP0946140A1 (de) Verwendung von cordia dichotoma extrakten
FR3076461A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique de prévention active des signes de l’âge.
EP3826725B1 (de) Verwendung eines etherischen öls von weissen fir-baumzweigen zur bekämpfung der anzeichen der hautalterung
FR3066118A1 (fr) Extrait de sechium edule pour lutter contre les effets nocifs des rayonnements ultraviolets
JP2023128847A (ja) 活性酸素消去剤、糖化抑制剤、カルボニル化抑制剤、ニトロ化抑制剤、ＡＧＥｓ分解剤、カルボニル化タンパク質分解剤、ニトロ化タンパク質分解剤。
EP3229923A1 (de) Kosmetische verwendung eines extrakts aus eschscholtzia californica
EP2039341B1 (de) Thiazolidinderivate enthaltende Zusammensetzungen zur Vewendung gegen die Effekte von Oxidationstress der Haut
MC200110A1 (fr) Utilisation topique de dérivés thiazolidines contre les conséquences du stress oxydatif de la peau

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: UNKNOWN

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATION HAS BEEN MADE

PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION WAS MADE

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20191213

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

DAV Request for validation of the european patent (deleted)
DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: EXAMINATION IS IN PROGRESS

17Q First examination report despatched

Effective date: 20220114

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN

18D Application deemed to be withdrawn

Effective date: 20220525