EP3959366B1 - Tricot en velours bidimensionnel - Google Patents

Tricot en velours bidimensionnel Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3959366B1
EP3959366B1 EP20712513.9A EP20712513A EP3959366B1 EP 3959366 B1 EP3959366 B1 EP 3959366B1 EP 20712513 A EP20712513 A EP 20712513A EP 3959366 B1 EP3959366 B1 EP 3959366B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pile
lapping
yarn
knitted fabric
dtex
Prior art date
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EP20712513.9A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3959366A1 (fr
EP3959366C0 (fr
Inventor
Matthias ESCHLER
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Schoeller Textil AG
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Schoeller Textil AG
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Publication date
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Publication of EP3959366A1 publication Critical patent/EP3959366A1/fr
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Publication of EP3959366B1 publication Critical patent/EP3959366B1/fr
Publication of EP3959366C0 publication Critical patent/EP3959366C0/fr
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B21/04Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/202Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration warp knitted yarns
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14Dyeability
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/012Alike front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0121Two hairy surfaces, e.g. napped or raised

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of velor goods, in particular imitations of suede, as well as the production of flat velor goods.
  • Alcantara ® which is referred to as Ultrasuede ® in the USA and Ecsaine ® in Japan.
  • This is a fleece-based microfiber fabric based on polyester and polyurethane, which was already in use at the beginning of the 1970s Japan was developed.
  • Alcantara ® approximately 50 mm long bicomponent staple fibers (polyester with polystyrene in the sheath) are used as the starting material.
  • the fiber bales are prepared in the bale openers and fed to a nonwoven card. These sort the fibers and place them on a conveyor belt. Several layers are then created in the layer.
  • a multi-stage, mechanical needling creates the solidified base nonwoven.
  • the polystyrene jacket is now separated from the polyester filament in a chemical/thermal process. This process step in particular represents a major burden on the environment. Without the polystyrene jacket, the PES filament breaks down into thin individual fibrils, which form a very dense and breathable surface.
  • the nonwoven fabric is impregnated with polyurethane in an immersion bath.
  • the nonwoven material is split into several layers (top, middle and bottom layer). The middle layer later represents the premium quality.
  • the surface is roughened, which ensures the typical velvety-soft or suede-like feel. Due to the complex production, Alcantara ® has no cost advantage compared to the production of natural leather. However, the industrial production of imitation suede has the advantage over natural leather in that a uniform and reproducible quality can be achieved.
  • Imitation suede is also known as so-called “Sea-Island fleeces”.
  • a starting material consisting of a sea component and an island component is used.
  • the imitation suede is achieved by selectively releasing the sea component using alkaline solutions.
  • the remaining Icelandic component ultimately forms the pile of the imitation suede.
  • Sea-Island fleeces are relatively complex to produce. Furthermore, the alkaline nature of the sea component limits the choice of material for the island component significant, as it must not be attacked, dissolved, modified and/or damaged by the alkaline solution. For example, certain polyesters are not suitable as an island component because they hydrolyze relatively quickly under basic conditions.
  • Flat velor knitwear for example, is used in US 5 91 6 273 A , CN 108 004 667 A and JP 201 1 069031 A disclosed.
  • a flat velor knit fabric for imitation suede is provided that can be produced in a time- and cost-efficient manner.
  • a flat velor knitted fabric for imitation suede is provided, which can be produced in a more environmentally friendly manner than has previously been possible using conventional methods.
  • a flat velor knitted fabric is provided for imitation suede that is soft to the touch, antistatic, durable, easy to clean and/or allergy-neutral.
  • a flat velor knitted fabric for imitation suede which has high tear resistance and/or good fastness properties, in particular fastness to rubbing, color, light, perspiration and washing.
  • the general object is achieved by a flat velor knitted fabric according to claim 1.
  • the flat velor knitted fabric has a top and a bottom, with the top having a Flor includes.
  • the underside comprises a knitted fabric made of at least one pile material and a base material.
  • the underside can also consist of a knitted fabric made of exactly one pile material and one base material.
  • the at least one pile material in the knitted fabric is a pile yarn and the base material formed in the knitted fabric as a base yarn.
  • the pile has the at least one pile material.
  • the pile can also consist of at least one pile material.
  • the pile material of the pile also has individual fibrils with a fineness of a maximum of 2 dtex per fibril.
  • a fineness of a maximum of 2 dtex in the fiber pile ensures a good surface quality of the velor knitted fabric.
  • the proportion of individual fibrils based on the total proportion of fibrils can be at least 50%, in particular at least 80%, preferably at least 90%.
  • the pile material can typically be arranged both in the pile and in the knitted fabric of the flat velor knitted fabric.
  • the knitted underside of the flat velor knitted fabric ensures that the individual fibrils of the pile cannot be released from the velor knitted fabric and are firmly anchored in the velor knitted fabric by the stitches in the knitted fabric. This means that there is no need for an additional adhesive, such as an additional polyurethane coating on the underside, as is usual in the prior art.
  • the knitted fabric is significantly more stable and tear-resistant.
  • the flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention achieves either comparable or even better values (look, feel, residual shrinkage, heat shrinkage, sweat, friction and water fastness, tensile strength, elongation at break) with the same weight, thickness and width ).
  • the flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention achieves a wet rubbing fastness of 4 in accordance with DIN EN ISO 11640 or DIN EN ISO 105-X12, while the comparison product only achieves a value of 3.
  • the flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention also has a softer feel and increased air permeability compared to Alcantara® .
  • the base yarn and the pile yarn are preferably not identical.
  • the base yarn can have a different fineness than the pile yarn or the base material can be different from the pile material.
  • the at least one base yarn may comprise or consist of a plain yarn and/or the at least one pile yarn may comprise or consist of a textured yarn.
  • knitted fabric refers to a textile fabric in which a loop formed by a yarn is looped into another loop.
  • the essentially regularly distributed stitches created in this way can be formed using a single yarn or multiple yarns.
  • a knitted fabric differs from a fleece, in which a loose collection of fibers is solidified, in particular by heat, chemical or water needling, and therefore does not have any regular entanglements like a knitted fabric.
  • the individual fibrils of the pile are fibrils that are separated from each other. These are therefore relatively movable independently of each other.
  • tex or decitex in accordance with the ISO 1144 and DIN 60905 standards.
  • One dtex corresponds to 0.1 tex or 1 g per 10,000 meters.
  • the at least one base yarn has a fineness of a maximum of 5 dtex, in particular 3 dtex, preferably 2 to 2.5 dtex per fibril.
  • the pile yarn can have a fineness of a maximum of 1 dtex, preferably a maximum of 0.3 dtex per individual fibril.
  • a particularly good surface quality of the pile is achieved using a pile yarn with a maximum fineness of 0.3 dtex.
  • the coordinated fineness of the base yarn and the pile yarn results in a particularly high quality Velor knitwear is achieved, which has a similar velvety surface compared to the velor goods known in the prior art, in particular fleece-based velor goods.
  • the production of the velor knitted fabric according to the invention is significantly more time and cost efficient.
  • the knitted fabric has a combined laying.
  • the combined laying includes at least one laying of the base yarn and one laying of the pile yarn.
  • the combined lay comprises at least two lays of the base yarn and one lay of the pile yarn.
  • at least two layers of the base yarn are different from each other, which means that a particularly dense knitted fabric can be achieved, which anchors the individual fibrils of the pile particularly firmly. This makes such velor knitted fabric particularly stable and durable.
  • At least one layer of the base yarn consists of a satin layer and/or at least one layer of the base yarn consists of a fringe layer.
  • one lay of the base yarn consists of a satin lay and one lay of the base yarn consists of a fringe lay.
  • the fringing can block the laying of the pile yarn so that the pile yarn does not move away when it is roughened to form the pile and the pile can therefore be produced particularly effectively.
  • the lay of the pile yarn is a satin lay or a velvet lay.
  • the satin laying results in a pile with shorter individual fibrils and the velvet laying leads to a pile with slightly longer individual fibrils.
  • the combined laying consists of a satin-fringe-satin laying or a satin-fringe-velvet laying.
  • a satin-fringe-satin laying or a satin-fringe-velvet laying Such an essentially layered structure with a fringe arrangement enables a very high stitch strength and thus a velor knitted fabric with a higher resistance and tear resistance than a fleece-based velor.
  • the flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention delivers a significantly increased tearing force (ISO 3341: 2000-05) in the transverse direction (1026 N compared to 360 N).
  • a closed fringe lay as can preferably be used in the present invention, has a 1 -0/0-1 lay.
  • a satin lay in the closed form has a 1 -0/3-4 lay.
  • a velvet laying has a 1 -0/4-5 laying in the closed form.
  • Velvet laying and/or satin laying is preferably used in the closed form.
  • the knitted fabric has a stitch density of 400 to 800 stitches/cm 2 , preferably 400 to 600 stitches/cm 2 .
  • the knitted fabric can have 5 to 20, preferably 10 to 15, particularly preferably 13 wales/cm and/or 30 to 40, preferably 30 to 35, particularly preferably 33 courses of stitches/cm.
  • the pile may have between 250,000 and 350,000 individual fibrils per cm 2 .
  • the at least one base material and the at least one pile material consist of polyester.
  • polyamide or other synthetic fiber materials are also possible.
  • the base yarn has 30 to 35 dtex and 15 fibrils and the pile yarn has 70 to 80 dtex and 300 fibrils.
  • the use of such a yarn combination enables the provision of a very tight knitted fabric with a very high density of the individual fibrils.
  • the velor knitted fabric has a weight of 180 to 300 g/m 2 , preferably 220 to 280 g/m 2 .
  • the advantage of such a process over the prior art is, among other things, that the total number of process steps is significantly reduced compared to the production of nonwoven-based velor goods.
  • All common knitting machines can be used as knitting machines.
  • warp knitting machines in particular tricot warp knitting machines, are preferred.
  • the top which essentially comprises pile yarn
  • the surface of the top side of the raw knitted fabric can be formed from pile yarn, or consist of pile yarn or at least comprise pile yarn.
  • the pile can be set up using a second or several roughening processes.
  • the pile can also be set up at least partially during step c). Step d) can therefore take place together and/or after step c).
  • the at least one base yarn has a fineness of a maximum of 5 dtex, in particular 3 dtex, preferably of 2 to 2.5 dtex per fibril and/or the pile yarn has a fineness of a maximum of 1 dtex, preferably a maximum of 0.3 dtex per fibril on.
  • the knitting in step b) takes place with a combined laying with at least two laying of the base yarn and one laying of the pile yarn.
  • the raw knitted fabric is dyed using strand dyeing before the pile is erected and optionally then dried.
  • the knitting in step b) is carried out with a knitting machine with a set fineness of E20 to E32, i.e. 20 to 32 needles per inch (8 to 1 2.6 needles per centimeter).
  • a fineness of E28 is preferred. Such a close effect has proven to be particularly beneficial for the surface quality and stability of the pile.
  • the knitting in step b) takes place with a combined lay, whereby the lay(s) of the base yarn is superimposed on the lay of the pile yarn. It can thus be ensured that the surface of the top side of the raw knitted fabric essentially consists of pile yarn, whereby only the pile yarn is severed during the subsequent roughening and the formed pile thus essentially consists of pile material.
  • the pile typically consists of the pile material, which can optionally be additionally colored with dyes.
  • the combined lay has one lay of the pile yarn and at least two lays of the base yarn.
  • At least one lay of the base yarn is a satin lay and/or at least one lay of the base yarn is a fringe lay and/or the lay of the pile yarn is a satin lay or velvet lay.
  • the combined laying consists of a satin-fringe-satin laying or a satin-fringe-velvet laying.
  • satin fringe satin laying The knitting takes place using a first laying rail with a 1 -0/3-4 laying of the base material, a second laying rail with a 0-1/1 -0 laying of the base material and a third laying rail with a 3-4/1 -0 laying of the pile material.
  • the first and second laying rails are identical to the satin-fringe-satin laying, but the third laying rail works with a 4-5/1-0 laying of the pile material.
  • a further aspect of the invention relates to the use of a flat velor knitted fabric according to one of the embodiments described here for the production of imitation leather.
  • FIG. 1a a combined laying of a flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention with two layings of the base yarn 1a, 1b and 2a, 2b and one laying of the pile yarn 3a, 3b is shown. 5 individual yarns are shown per individual laying.
  • the combined laying consists of a satin-fringe-satin laying.
  • the first laying rail creates a closed satin laying (see 1a, 1b)
  • the second laying rail creates an open fringe laying (see 2a, 2b)
  • the third laying rail in turn creates a closed satin laying (see 3a, 3b).
  • the open fringing of the base yarn blocks the satin laying of the pile yarn, which means that the pile yarn cannot escape during the subsequent roughening and thus an optimal surface quality of the pile can be provided with high effectiveness.
  • a combined laying of a flat velor knitted fabric according to the invention with two layings of the base yarn 1a, 1b and 2a, 2b is shown.
  • the combined laying includes a further laying of the pile yarn 3a, 3b. 5 individual yarns are shown per individual laying.
  • the combined laying is in contrast to that in the Figures 1a and 1b shown combined laying made of a satin-fringe-velvet laying.
  • the Figure 2b shows the combined laying of the Figure 2a , however, only one individual yarn 1a, 2a and 3a is shown per lay.
  • the Figure 3 shows a top view of the underside 11 of a velor knitted fabric 10 according to the invention.
  • the underside 11 comprises a knitted fabric made of a pile material, which is designed as a pile yarn 3, and of a base material, which is designed as a first base yarn 1 and a second base yarn 2. Due to the very tight effect, the pile yarn 3 is firmly anchored in the knitted fabric, so that the individual fibrils of the pile on the opposite top side of the velor knitted fabric are firmly anchored in the knitted fabric and do not detach themselves from the velor knitted fabric, even without additional adhesive.
  • a polyester yarn dtex 33F15 can be used as the base yarn and a polyester yarn dtex 78F300 can be used as the pile yarn.
  • top 12 of a raw knitted fabric is shown according to an embodiment of the invention.
  • the surface of the top 12 essentially consists of pile yarn 3 or is formed by it. Since the raw knitted fabric has not yet been roughened and therefore the pile yarn on the top has not yet been cut, the pile has not yet been formed.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10), le tissu à mailles velours (10) comprenant une face supérieure et une face inférieure (11), la face supérieure comprenant un poil et la face inférieure (11) comprenant un tricot constitué d'au moins un matériau de poil et d'un matériau de base, la face inférieure étant exempte d'agent adhésif, ledit au moins un matériau de poil dans le tricot étant réalisé sous la forme d'au moins un fil de poil (3) et le matériau de base dans le tricot étant réalisé sous la forme d'au moins un fil de base (1, 2) et le poil présentant ledit au moins un matériau de poil, ledit au moins un matériau de poil du poil présentant des fibrilles individuelles d'une finesse de 2 dtex maximum par fibrille, caractérisé en ce que le tricot présente une densité de mailles de 400 à 800 mailles/cm2.
  2. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10) selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le au moins un fil de base (1, 2) présente une finesse de 5 dtex maximum, en particulier de 3 dtex, de préférence de 2 à 2,5 dtex par fibrille et/ou le fil de poil (3) présente une finesse de 1 dtex maximum, de préférence de 0,3 dtex maximum par fibrille.
  3. Tissu à mailles velours (10) selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le tricot présente un pli combiné avec au moins un pli du fil de base (1, 2) et un pli du fil de poil (3), le pli combiné présentant de préférence au moins deux plis du fil de base (1, 2) et un pli du fil de poil (3) ; et/ou dans lequel, de préférence, au moins une couche du fil de base (1, 2) est constituée d'un pli de satin et/ou dans lequel au moins une couche du fil de base (1, 2) est constituée d'un pli de franges.
  4. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10) selon la revendication 3, dans lequel le pli du fil à poil (3) est constitué d'un pli de satin ou d'un pli de velours, le pli combiné étant de préférence constitué d'un pli de satin-franges-velours ou d'un pli de satin-franges-velours.
  5. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10) selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le tricot présente une densité de mailles de 400 à 600 mailles/cm2 ; et/ou dans lequel le tissu à mailles velours (10) présente un poids de 180 à 300 g/m2, de préférence de 220 à 280 g/m2.
  6. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ledit au moins un matériau de base et ledit au moins un matériau de poil sont en polyester.
  7. Tissu à mailles velours plat (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le fil de base (1, 2) présente 33 dtex et 15 fibrilles et le fil de poil (3) présente 78 dtex et 300 fibrilles.
  8. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à mailles velours plat ayant une densité de mailles comprise entre 400 et 800 mailles/cm2 et une face inférieure exempte d'agent adhésif selon l'une des revendications précédentes, comprenant les étapes suivantes :
    a) fournir au moins un fil de poil constitué d'un matériau de poil présentant des fibrilles individuelles d'une finesse maximale de 2 dtex par fibrille, et au moins un fil de base constitué d'un matériau de base ;
    b) tricoter le fil de poil et le fil de base avec un métier à tricoter pour obtenir un tissu à mailles écru composé de fil de poil et de fil de base, le tissu à mailles écru ayant une face supérieure et une face inférieure, la face supérieure comprenant essentiellement du fil de poil ;
    c) lainer la face supérieure du tissu à mailles écru, le fil de poil étant coupé sur la face supérieure du tissu à mailles et un poil étant formé ;
    d) mise en place du poil.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel ledit au moins un fil de base présente une finesse maximale de 5 dtex, notamment de 3 dtex, de préférence de 2 à 2,5 dtex par fibrille et/ou ledit fil de poil présente une finesse maximale de 1 dtex, de préférence de 0,3 dtex parfibrille.
  10. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 8 ou 9, dans lequel le tricotage à l'étape b) est réalisé avec un pli combiné comprenant au moins deux plis du fil de base et un pli du fil de poil.
  11. 11 - Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 10, dans lequel le tissu à mailles écru est coloré par teinture en brin avant la mise en place du poil.
  12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 11, dans lequel le tricotage à l'étape b) est réalisé avec un métier à tricoter ayant une finesse de 28 aiguilles par 2,54 cm (E28).
  13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 12, dans lequel le tricotage à l'étape b) est réalisé avec un pli combiné, et dans lequel de préférence le ou les plis du fil de base sont superposés au pli du fil de poil, de préférence le pli combiné comprend un pli du fil de poil et au moins deux plis du fil de base ; et/ou dans lequel, de préférence, au moins une pli de fil de base est constituée d'une pli de satin et/ou dans lequel au moins une pli de fil de base est constituée d'une pli de franges et/ou dans lequel la pli de fil de poil est constituée d'une pli de satin ou d'une pli de velours.
  14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 8 à 13, dans lequel le pli combiné est constitué d'un pli de satin-franges-velours ou d'un pli de satin-franges-velours.
  15. Utilisation d'un tissu à mailles velours en plat selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 pour la fabrication d'un similicuir.
EP20712513.9A 2019-04-24 2020-03-17 Tricot en velours bidimensionnel Active EP3959366B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH00552/19A CH716114A1 (de) 2019-04-24 2019-04-24 Flächige Velourmaschenware.
PCT/EP2020/057175 WO2020216532A1 (fr) 2019-04-24 2020-03-17 Tricot en velours bidimensionnel

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3959366A1 EP3959366A1 (fr) 2022-03-02
EP3959366B1 true EP3959366B1 (fr) 2023-12-20
EP3959366C0 EP3959366C0 (fr) 2023-12-20

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EP20712513.9A Active EP3959366B1 (fr) 2019-04-24 2020-03-17 Tricot en velours bidimensionnel

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US (2) US12291803B2 (fr)
EP (1) EP3959366B1 (fr)
CH (1) CH716114A1 (fr)
TW (1) TWI870400B (fr)
WO (1) WO2020216532A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20240173950A1 (en) * 2022-11-30 2024-05-30 Lear Corporation 100% polyester mono-material providing suede-like a-surface with 100% recyclability at end of life

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EP3959366A1 (fr) 2022-03-02
US20250230588A1 (en) 2025-07-17
TW202106940A (zh) 2021-02-16
US20220213626A1 (en) 2022-07-07
TWI870400B (zh) 2025-01-21
US12291803B2 (en) 2025-05-06
EP3959366C0 (fr) 2023-12-20
CH716114A1 (de) 2020-10-30
WO2020216532A1 (fr) 2020-10-29

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