EP4442152A1 - Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz - Google Patents

Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4442152A1
EP4442152A1 EP23166956.5A EP23166956A EP4442152A1 EP 4442152 A1 EP4442152 A1 EP 4442152A1 EP 23166956 A EP23166956 A EP 23166956A EP 4442152 A1 EP4442152 A1 EP 4442152A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
support
crimping
decorative insert
crimped
decorative
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP23166956.5A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
désignation de l'inventeur n'a pas encore été déposée La
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Rolex SA
Original Assignee
Rolex SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Rolex SA filed Critical Rolex SA
Priority to EP23166956.5A priority Critical patent/EP4442152A1/de
Priority to JP2024059255A priority patent/JP7763288B2/ja
Priority to EP24168120.4A priority patent/EP4442153A1/de
Priority to US18/627,215 priority patent/US20240335013A1/en
Priority to CN202410409142.7A priority patent/CN118766203A/zh
Publication of EP4442152A1 publication Critical patent/EP4442152A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates generally to watchmaking or jewelry, and in particular the present invention relates to supports for watchmaking or jewelry pieces and intended to receive a decorative element such as a decorative insert, a precious, semi-precious, fine stone, a gem or any other decorative piece added.
  • a decorative element such as a decorative insert, a precious, semi-precious, fine stone, a gem or any other decorative piece added.
  • Such a support may be called a bezel and the decorative element may be set on the support.
  • An aim of the present invention is to address the drawbacks of the prior art mentioned above and in particular, first of all, to propose a support for a decorative insert which is easy to manufacture, and/or which affects the shine of the decorative insert as little as possible, and/or which ensures optimum repeatability of the position and orientation of the decorative insert within the support, and/or which ensures high quality crimping, i.e. with a robust and/or aesthetic fixing of the decorative insert on the support.
  • the portion to be crimped is intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert, i.e. irreversibly, so that the fixing of the decorative insert on the support is reliable and robust: there is no risk of relative movements between the support and the decorative insert. It can also be noted that the portion to be crimped is arranged on the side of the rear face, so that the user will not see it, and the appearance of the front face is independent of the portion to be crimped and the crimping carried out, which offers great freedom of designs and/or decorations.
  • the crimping portion may be arranged between the exposure opening and the insertion opening. According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may be arranged between the exposure opening and the insertion opening. realization, the portion to be crimped can be arranged on the periphery or around the bearing surface and/or the decorative insert.
  • the support may comprise a support surface arranged on the side of the rear face and intended to provide end-of-crimping support to a crimping tool intended to deform the portion to be crimped on the decorative insert.
  • the support surface may thus serve as a crimping end-of-stroke stop, which makes it possible to better control the forces applied to the decorative insert. Indeed, at the end of the stroke, it is the support itself which directly absorbs the forces applied by the crimping tool, via the support surface, and these forces do not pass through the decorative insert.
  • Such an implementation also makes it possible to properly guarantee the dimension chains, by reducing geometric dispersions, since the support surface and the portion to be crimped are provided on a single and unique part, namely the support.
  • the support surface can be arranged to be hidden from the user.
  • the support surface is advantageously designed to be invisible to the user.
  • the crimping tool does not come into contact with the front face. The latter therefore does not undergo any deformation or matting.
  • the support surface can be arranged on the periphery of the portion to be crimped, and preferably around the portion to be crimped.
  • the portion to be crimped may comprise a lip comprising a central face, preferably cylindrical, and an external face, preferably conical or frustoconical, adjacent to the bearing surface.
  • the support surface can be arranged on the rear face.
  • the front face may include a decorated surface intended to be visible to the user and may include a decorative finish or decorative termination such as a surface coating, or diamond plating, or polishing, or engraving.
  • the decorated surface is thus located opposite the insertion opening and the portion to be crimped, the decorated surface is not exposed to the crimping tool, and specific terminations may be provided and/or the appearance of the decorated surface may be ensured not to be affected by the crimping of the portion to be crimped. In any event, once crimping has been performed, it is not necessary to provide a termination operation on the front face.
  • the setting of the decorative insert may be a closed setting.
  • Such a setting completely surrounds the decorative insert with a lip or a thin thickness of material, without hiding or concealing any the rear part of the decorative insert (e.g. the pavilion of a gem) is significantly affected, so that the shine is little affected.
  • the crimping portion may comprise a lip arranged at the periphery of the bearing surface and intended to be folded down in whole or in part on the decorative insert.
  • a folding lip allows a simple crimping method with a simple crimping tool.
  • the lip may comprise recesses or notches.
  • Such an implementation provides great freedom of design and/or manufacturing. The crimping forces can be reduced.
  • the crimping portion may comprise a plurality of deformable petal-shaped portions, arranged on the periphery of the bearing surface and designed to be folded over the decorative insert. The crimping forces may be reduced.
  • At least two adjacent deformable portions (e.g. petals) of the plurality of deformable portions may be at least partially joined.
  • the appearance at the end of crimping is of high quality.
  • the portion to be crimped may comprise at least a portion of the side wall of the through-housing to be pushed back and/or sheared by the crimping tool.
  • the crimping tool may shear and/or incise material of the through-housing to press it and/or fold it over the decorative insert.
  • the decorative insert may comprise a rear undercut portion intended to be arranged on the rear face side, and the crimping portion may be intended to be crimped against the rear undercut portion.
  • the support may comprise at least one centering surface provided for centering the decorative insert on the opening. display.
  • a centering surface improves the perceived quality by providing precise positioning between the support (its decorated surface, its external periphery) and the decorative insert (the crown or table of a cut gem).
  • the decorative insert may comprise a flank, for example cylindrical, such as a foliate or a roundel, and the centering surface may be provided to receive the flank.
  • the crimping portion may be arranged between the bearing surface and the insertion opening and/or the rear face.
  • the bearing surface may comprise a contact surface with the decorative insert which is continuous.
  • the contact surface may be flat or even conical or truncated.
  • a shape complementary to that of the decorative insert may be provided in order to have surface contact between the support and the decorative insert, in order to avoid any concentration of stresses on the decorative insert.
  • the span may comprise a contact surface with the decorative insert which is discontinuous. Slots or clearances may be provided, for example to free the decorative insert from the support in order to maximize the passage of light, visibility or even exposure of the decorative insert.
  • the step of plastically deforming the portion to be crimped may be performed by introducing a crimping tool into the through-housing through the insertion opening, the crimping tool possibly comprising a crimping interface provided to come into contact with the portion to be crimped and to plastically deform the portion to be crimped.
  • the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped can end with a mechanical stop of the crimping tool on the support.
  • the crimping tool may comprise a contact interface intended to cooperate with the decorative insert
  • the manufacturing method may comprise a step consisting of positioning the decorative insert relative to the support with the contact interface, at least before or during the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped.
  • the contact interface may be floating relative to a working portion (the crimping interface) of the tool intended to fold down the portion to be crimped.
  • the contact interface may come into contact with the decorative element before the rest of the crimping tool in order to properly center the decorative element, and the contact interface may then slide relative to the rest of the crimping tool, during the crimping operation.
  • the contact interface may be provided to grip the decorative insert
  • the manufacturing method comprising a step of gripping the decorative insert by the crimping tool, and the step of inserting the decorative insert into the through-housing may be performed by the crimping tool. It is even possible to provide to position the decorative insert on the contact interface, by holding it in place for example by suction, to then insert it into the support automatically.
  • the manufacturing method may comprise a step of relative movement between the contact interface and the crimping interface, at least during the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped.
  • the crimping tool can follow a linear movement, preferably coaxial with an axial direction of the through housing.
  • the step of deforming the portion to be crimped can be carried out in a single action and/or a single movement of the crimping tool.
  • the crimping interface may include recesses, clearances or portions out of reach of the portion to be crimped, and the step of plastically deforming the portion to be crimped may effect, along the portion to be crimped, a heterogeneous or discontinuous deformation of the portion to be crimped.
  • the crimping tool may comprise a contact interface provided to cooperate with the decorative insert and position the latter relative to the support at least during the plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped, and in which the contact interface may be movable, for example sliding, relative to the crimping interface.
  • the present invention provides a support 20 ( figure 1 ) designed to receive a decorative insert 10 ( figure 2 ), in order to form a decorative assembly that can be integrated into a timepiece or piece of jewelry.
  • the decorative insert 10 is preferably a gem 10 or a cut precious stone 10 that can be of any shape.
  • the support 20 can be a setting, a bezel, a dial, a case middle, a metal bracelet link or any other jewelry or watch component capable of receiving a stone.
  • the support 20 is preferably made of a ductile material such as gold, platinum, brass or steel.
  • figure 1 represents a sectional view of a support 20 provided for receiving and fixing a decorative insert 10 shown figure 2 .
  • the front face 22 intended to be visible to an observer or a user, is provided with a decorative finish, such as a polish (a mirror polish), decorative engravings, decorative chamfers or rays constituting a sunburst.
  • a decorative finish such as a polish (a mirror polish), decorative engravings, decorative chamfers or rays constituting a sunburst.
  • the front face 22 adopts a geometry comprising, for example, chamfers or facets making it possible to highlight the decorative insert 10.
  • the finish or finish of the front face 22 may advantageously be in particular a diamond finish, a black polish or a mirror polish.
  • Finishes or finishes such as a satin finish, a sunburst, a snail finish, a guilloche finish or any other watchmaking finish may also be applied independently to the different surfaces of the front face 22.
  • markings or engravings for example made by laser, may also be applied thereto.
  • Colored deposits can also be applied such as ink, enamel, ceramic or luminescent material.
  • the rear face 23 may be intended to be hidden from the observer or the end user, but the opposite is possible, i.e. the rear face 23 may be left visible.
  • the span 24 is therefore arranged between the display opening 211 and the insertion opening 212, and has a conical or truncated surface, to properly center the decorative insert 10.
  • the span 24 has an opening with a diameter D2, which is the smallest passage diameter of the through housing 21.
  • the crimping portion 25 overhangs the bearing surface 24 on the side of the insertion opening 212, and forms in this example a lip having a cylindrical central recess and a conical or truncated external face which opens onto a bearing surface 26 (in other words, the crimping lip or at least its external surface is adjacent to the bearing surface 26).
  • the bearing surface 26 forms the bottom of the clearance 27.
  • the clearance 27 opens directly onto the rear face 23, and can provide a passage for a crimping tool as will be described below.
  • the crimping portion 25 has a cross section which decreases towards its free end.
  • the bearing surface 24 and/or at the level of the portion can be crimped 25 shapes or counter-shapes to angularly orient the decorative insert 10.
  • the bare decorative insert 10 has, when viewed from above, a non-circular size, silhouette or shape (oval, pear-shaped, baguette-shaped, polygonal size, shape or silhouette, etc.)
  • the bearing surface 24 and/or the portion to be crimped can have a suitable receiving counter-shape to guarantee precise and reliable angular orientation.
  • the support 20 has a central axis A2, which here forms an axis of symmetry of the through housing 21.
  • the decorative insert 10 may be a gemstone that includes a crown 12 defined by the lower portion (with reference to the figure 2 ) of the stone and a culet 13 defined by the upper part (with reference to the figure 2 ). The two parts are separated by a sheet 11 of diameter D1 and which defines the outline or peripheral edge of the stone.
  • the stone comprises a table 14 defined by the wide lower facet of the stone, at the center of the crown 12.
  • the decorative insert 10 finally has an axis A1 passing through its center and perpendicular to the table 14.
  • FIG 3 represents the decorative insert 10 of the figure 2 received in support 20 of the figure 1 .
  • the crown 12 is the front or visible part of the decorative insert 10
  • the cylinder head 13 is the rear or hidden part of the decorative insert 10.
  • the decorative insert 10 is intended to be placed within the support 20 in order to form an aesthetic and high-quality decorative assembly. More particularly, the decorative insert 10 is intended to be placed within the through-housing 21 by being inserted from the rear of the support 20, in a direction substantially coaxial with the axis A2 of the support 20.
  • the axis A2 is longitudinal to the through-housing 21 and passes through the center of the latter.
  • the through housing 21 is machined so as to fit the sheet 11 of the decorative insert 10 and allow optimal positioning of the latter.
  • the bearing surface 24 is provided with an opening with a dimension D2 smaller than the dimension, in particular the diameter D1, of the sheet 11, to properly retain the decorative insert 10.
  • the bearing surface 24 of the through housing 21 is designed to cooperate or fit with the crown 12, so as to define an axial stop and precise positioning of the decorative insert 10. More particularly, the bearing surface 24 is defined so as to position the table 14 along the axis A2 with great precision, and to orient the table 14 so that the axis A1 of the decorative insert 10 and the axis A2 of the support 20 are as perfectly coaxial as possible.
  • the opening defined by the span 24 is provided so as to reveal the table 14 and a major portion of the crown 12 on the visible side of the decorative assembly. Indeed, only a small portion located on the outer periphery of the crown 12 is, preferably, intended to cooperate with the span 24, to leave the largest possible part of the decorative insert 10 visible.
  • the decorative insert 10 may be mounted and crimped into the support 20 “in the other direction” relative to the representation of the figure 3 . Indeed, it can be provided that the cylinder head 13 of the decorative insert 10 is positioned against the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be crimped 25 would fit the crown 12. Consequently, it would therefore be the cylinder head 13 which would be on the visible side of the decorative assembly.
  • the support 20 comprises a crimping portion 25 arranged on the rear side of the support 20, intended to provide the crimping function of the decorative insert 10.
  • the figure 4 represents the whole of the figure 3 positioned in a crimping tool, before a crimping operation to fix the decorative insert 10 of the figure 2 received in support 20 of the figure 1 .
  • the crimping tool essentially comprises a fixture 110 which receives the support 20 (with the decorative insert 10 placed in the support 20), and a crimping tool 120, opposite the portion to be crimped 25 of the support 20.
  • the mounting 110 may comprise a bore 111 for properly centering the support 20, and a base surface 112 which receives the front face 22 of the support 20.
  • a recess or a step may be provided on the base surface 112 opposite the table 14, to avoid any interference.
  • it may be provided that the base surface 112 perfectly matches the front face 22.
  • the crimping tool 120 has a punch shape with a hollowed-out cylinder 121 with a crimping interface 125, an internal clearance 127 into which a through passage 128 opens.
  • the crimping interface 125 is directly opposite the portion to be crimped 25, and ends with a terminal surface 126 (itself opposite the bearing surface 26 of the support 20), at the lower level of the crimping tool 120.
  • the decorative ensemble of the figure 4 is ready to be crimped, and for this purpose, the crimping tool 120 can perform an axial movement downwards to go into an end-of-stroke position, or end of crimping as shown in figure 5 .
  • the crimping tool 120 during its downward movement came into contact with the portion to be crimped 25, so that the crimping interface 125 folded down the portion to be crimped. 25 against the decorative insert 10.
  • the portion to be crimped 25 is folded over a peripheral part of the cylinder head 13, so that a closed crimping of the decorative insert 10 is carried out from the rear of the support 20.
  • the internal clearance 127 and the through passage 128 of the crimping tool 120 prevent any interference with the decorative insert 10. It may also be noted that the terminal surface 126 of the crimping tool 120 is likely to be in contact with the support surface 26, so that the deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 is well controlled, and that any untimely crimping force passes directly from the crimping tool 120 to the support 20, and not via the decorative insert 10, which preserves the latter.
  • the front face 22 in contact with the fitting 110 has a much larger contact area than the bearing surface 26, and/or that the cross section of the portion to be crimped 25 is plastically deformed.
  • the front face 22 in contact with the fitting 110 does not undergo any irreversible deformation, nor any marks related to the crimping: the visible appearance of the support 20 and its perceived quality are not affected by the crimping.
  • the closed setting provides excellent mechanical hold of the stone within the support 20.
  • this type of setting only covers the perimeter of the pavilion 13, thus allowing a maximum amount of light to pass through and thus maximizing the brilliance of a transparent stone.
  • the crimping interface 125 and/or the portion to be crimped 25 advantageously have a conical or truncated shape or, more generally, a cross section with an inclined plane.
  • this conformation means that the axial force applied to the crimping tool 120 generates a deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 with a mainly radial component relative to the axes A1, A2, so as to fit the yoke 13 and crimp the decorative insert 10 on the support 20.
  • the axial force applied to the crimping tool 120 is not directly transmitted to the decorative insert 10, but is converted into an essentially radial deformation of the lip.
  • the force applied to the crimping tool 120 is not directly transmitted to the decorative insert 10 with a component mainly normal to the latter, and it does not generate a mainly axial force on the decorative insert 10. This advantageously makes it possible to avoid damaging or moving the decorative insert 10 or even generating an unwanted deformation of the support 20, or more particularly, of the bearing surface 24.
  • the crimping tool 120 comprises an outer portion 121 which adjoins the crimping interface 125 from the outside.
  • the dimensions of the outer portion 121 are provided so as to allow the insertion of the crimping tool 120 into the clearance 27 of the support 20.
  • the crimping tool 120 is preferably assembled on a bracket allowing it to be guided axially.
  • the crimping tool 120 can be servo-controlled in position and/or force, and be automatic, semi-automatic or manually operated by a user.
  • the crimping is carried out in a single action of the crimping tool 120, or in a single axial movement of the crimping tool 120 against the portion to be crimped 25.
  • the action allowing the shaping of the portion to be crimped 25 may comprise a succession of axial movements and stops, and may or may not comprise back-and-forth movements of the crimping tool 120.
  • this movement of the crimping tool 120 in the support 20 may be used to provide automatic insertion of the decorative insert 10 into the support.
  • a contact or gripping interface can be provided on the crimping tool 120 (movable relative to the crimping interface 125) which can receive and hold the decorative insert 10 on the crimping tool 120 in the rest position.
  • the decorative insert 10 is transported towards the bearing surface 24 and positioned against the latter, and the portion to be crimped 25 is then deformed.
  • An axial stop and/or the control of the crimping tool 120 advantageously make it possible to limit the axial movement of the latter during crimping and to prevent excessive deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 and/or of the bearing surface 24 which could in particular degrade the positioning or the holding of the decorative insert 10 within the through housing 21.
  • the support 20 or at least the different parts of the support 20 intended to position, orient and hold the stone are designed so as to be able to be machined with high-precision manufacturing means allowing mass production such as milling or turning. More particularly, it is provided that at least the through housing 21, the bearing surface 24, the opening defined by the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be set 25 are machined with said manufacturing means. Consequently, it is advantageously possible to orient and position the table 14 along the axis A2 in a precise and repeatable manner.
  • the accuracy and repeatability offered by the disclosed solution are particularly advantageous when multiple decorative inserts 10 and/or decorative assemblies are assembled side by side, as the solution allows to have all of the tables 14 positioned substantially at the same height and to have all of them substantially oriented along the same plane with great precision and/or low dispersion. This results in a reflection and shimmering in unison of all of the decorative inserts 10, as if all of the tables 14 had come from the same stone.
  • the solution presented therefore allows crimping on the rear or hidden side of the decorative assembly. Consequently, the aesthetics or the termination of the visible side of the decorative assembly is advantageously not dependent on the quality of the implementation of the crimping. Indeed, the solution proposed here makes it possible to dissociate the crimping function which is carried out on the rear side of the decorative assembly, from the aesthetic function which is carried out on the front or visible side of the latter.
  • the solution makes it possible to simplify the crimping while guaranteeing high mechanical strength or resistance, precise orientation and positioning of the decorative insert 10 within the through-housing 21 of the support 20.
  • figure 6 represents the whole of the figure 3 after the crimping operation of the figure 5 . It can be noted that the portion to be crimped 25 is well folded over the peripheral part of the cylinder head 13, with the table 14 perfectly aligned with the front face 22 of the support 20.
  • FIG 7 represents a perspective view from the front of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation, to clearly show that the support 20 leaves a large part of the decorative insert 10 visible. It can be noted that the front face 22, having a large contact area with the installation 110 of the figure 4 or 5 , is free of marks.
  • FIG 8 represents a perspective view from behind of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation, to clearly show the portion to be crimped 26 folded all around the decorative insert 10, thus forming a closed crimping.
  • the user who would look at the decorative assembly from the front face 22, as shown in the figure 7 , could consider that the decorative insert 10 is fixed on the support 20 by a closed setting or a mass setting made from the front face 22.
  • the latter having an appearance which is not altered by the setting, the notion of perceived quality is very high.
  • a support and/or a decorative assembly according to the present invention, and its manufacture, are capable of industrial application.
  • the span 24 is provided so as to benefit from support over the entire circumference or the periphery of the decorative insert 10.
  • the span 24 could also have portions without support, so as to have portions of partial support on the periphery of the decorative insert 10.
  • the closed setting is provided over the entire circumference or the periphery of the decorative insert 10.
  • the portion to be set 25 could comprise portions without a lip, so as to obtain a partially closed setting or a closed setting only on certain portions of the periphery of the stone.
  • deformable portions to be set may be provided, for example in the form of petals.
  • the crimping interface 125 of the crimping tool 120 could include recesses, clearances, or out-of-reach portions of the crimping portion 25, such that the crimping interface 125 can fold back only certain portions of the crimping portion 25 and obtain a partially closed crimp or a closed crimp only on certain portions of the perimeter of the decorative insert 10.
  • the support 20 may not include a machined setting portion 25. Therefore, the decorative insert 10 could be set to the support 20 by a material upset by work hardening around the stone or by a lip sheared by the setting tool 120 during setting.
  • the internal clearance 127 of the crimping tool 120 could participate in the positioning of the decorative insert 10 during crimping, by guiding it by contact with the yoke 13.
  • the guidance by the yoke could comprise an additional means, for example a guide means or a contact interface having a degree of freedom in the axial direction relative to the crimping tool 120.
  • the internal clearance 127 could take up and match the geometry of the cylinder head 13 so as to angularly orient the decorative insert 10 during crimping.
  • the angular orientation of the decorative insert 10 opposite the support 20 could be controlled or assisted by a vision means.
  • the bearing surface 24 or the portion to be crimped 25 can be used to guarantee the angular orientation of the decorative insert 10, for example by providing a counterform at the bearing surface 24 or the portion to be crimped 25 which matches an external contour of the decorative insert 10.
  • the decorative insert 10 could be housed or carried by the crimping tool 120 so that, during crimping, the latter can insert the decorative insert 10 into the through-housing 21 of the support 20 and crimp it in a single action.
  • the crimping tool 120 could comprise a means for gripping or holding the decorative insert 10.
  • the crimping could be carried out by a relative movement of the crimping tool 120 opposite the support 20 or vice versa from top to bottom or from bottom to top. During this relative movement, the decorative insert 10 can be carried and placed within the support 20 by the crimping tool 120 during crimping.
  • a support 20 could comprise several housings 21 to be able to accommodate several decorative inserts 10.
  • the decorative insert 10 is set “upside down”.
  • the yoke 13 of the decorative insert 10 would be positioned against the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be set 25 would fit the crown 12. Consequently, it would therefore be the yoke 13 which would be on the visible side of the decorative assembly.
  • the decorative assembly It is also possible to plan to manufacture the decorative assembly with a process that provides for positioning of the support by a coating or temporary overmolding. For example, it is possible to plan to machine several supports 20 in the same metal plate, starting at the level of the front face 22 and the accessible parts of the through-housing 21. Once the front faces have been formed and exposed, they can be embedded in a synthetic material which forms a coating or a protective envelope around the support blanks 20. Then, the rear face 23 as well as the remainder of the through-housing 21 (in particular the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be crimped 25) can be machined. Machining the rear face 23 may require turning the plate over to gain access to it.
  • crimping can be carried out from the rear face, using the synthetic material as a support, which further reduces the risks of inadvertent marking of the front face 22 (the latter being embedded and protected by the synthetic material).
  • the synthetic material can be removed (by dissolving for example) and the finished supports 20 released.

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  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP23166956.5A 2023-04-06 2023-04-06 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz Pending EP4442152A1 (de)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP23166956.5A EP4442152A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2023-04-06 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz
JP2024059255A JP7763288B2 (ja) 2023-04-06 2024-04-01 支持体及び装飾インサートを備える時計又は宝飾品アイテムのための支持体
EP24168120.4A EP4442153A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2024-04-02 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz
US18/627,215 US20240335013A1 (en) 2023-04-06 2024-04-04 Support for a timepiece or item of jewellery comprising the support and a decorative insert
CN202410409142.7A CN118766203A (zh) 2023-04-06 2024-04-07 包括支承件和装饰嵌件的钟表或珠宝件的支承件

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP23166956.5A EP4442152A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2023-04-06 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz

Publications (1)

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EP4442152A1 true EP4442152A1 (de) 2024-10-09

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EP23166956.5A Pending EP4442152A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2023-04-06 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz
EP24168120.4A Pending EP4442153A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2024-04-02 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz

Family Applications After (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP24168120.4A Pending EP4442153A1 (de) 2023-04-06 2024-04-02 Halterung für ein uhr- oder schmuckstück mit der halterung und einem dekorativen einsatz

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20240335013A1 (de)
EP (2) EP4442152A1 (de)
JP (1) JP7763288B2 (de)
CN (1) CN118766203A (de)

Citations (5)

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US1092587A (en) 1913-08-12 1914-04-07 Harry H Meyers Gem-setting.
GB821446A (en) * 1956-07-04 1959-10-07 Wyvern Fountain Pen Co Ltd Costume or fashion jewellery
FR2004228A1 (de) * 1968-03-19 1969-11-21 Gisiger Lusa Armin
EP1143822A1 (de) * 1998-12-31 2001-10-17 Meang Chia Dekoratives schmuckstück
EP1825773A1 (de) * 2006-02-28 2007-08-29 Blancpain S. A. Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement

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US837615A (en) * 1906-05-16 1906-12-04 George W Dover Setting.
US4566294B1 (en) * 1984-02-02 1994-08-09 Jan Brzozowski Method for the mounting of gems and resulting product
US4538430A (en) * 1984-04-26 1985-09-03 Parks Armond O Ring sizing insert
JPH02228904A (ja) * 1989-03-01 1990-09-11 Chino Tokeiten:Kk 宝石類の固定方法と装置
US20040103689A1 (en) * 1998-12-31 2004-06-03 Chia Meang K. Decorative jewelry article
US6634184B2 (en) * 2001-12-03 2003-10-21 Hord Crystal Corporation Prongless gemstone setting
US7325416B2 (en) * 2004-03-10 2008-02-05 Bernsen Roger M Gem setting
EP3067150B1 (de) * 2015-03-13 2018-05-16 Rolex Sa Dekorationsverfahren eines uhrelements, und anhand eines solchen verfahrens hergestelltes uhrelement
CN206836434U (zh) * 2017-06-12 2018-01-05 杨云 一种宝石便装式的镶嵌装置
US10602814B1 (en) * 2018-11-05 2020-03-31 H. K. Designs Inc. Precious stone setting

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1092587A (en) 1913-08-12 1914-04-07 Harry H Meyers Gem-setting.
GB821446A (en) * 1956-07-04 1959-10-07 Wyvern Fountain Pen Co Ltd Costume or fashion jewellery
FR2004228A1 (de) * 1968-03-19 1969-11-21 Gisiger Lusa Armin
EP1143822A1 (de) * 1998-12-31 2001-10-17 Meang Chia Dekoratives schmuckstück
EP1825773A1 (de) * 2006-02-28 2007-08-29 Blancpain S. A. Verfahren zum Einfassen von Steinen in einem Trägerelement

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JP7763288B2 (ja) 2025-10-31
EP4442153A1 (de) 2024-10-09
US20240335013A1 (en) 2024-10-10
JP2024150416A (ja) 2024-10-23
CN118766203A (zh) 2024-10-15

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