ES2339307T3 - LITTLE VISCOSE COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL PREPARATIONS OF THE WATER-IN-OIL TYPE. - Google Patents

Abstract

A mobile liquid cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil preparation, having an electrolyte-containing aqueous phase of high ionic strength, contains at least two (poly)oxyalkylene or (poly)glycerol diether or diester surfactant emulsifiers. A mobile liquid cosmetic or dermatological water-in-oil preparation comprises: (1) an oil phase containing one or more oils, fats and/or waxes; (2) an aqueous phase containing one or more dissolved electrolytes and having an ionic strength of at least 0.075 M; (3) an emulsifier system consisting of at least two emulsifiers selected from surfactants of formula (I); and (4) optionally further cosmetic or pharmaceutical auxiliaries, additives and/or active agents, which correspondingly reduce the content of component (2). a = 1-100 (preferably 2-60, especially 5-40): R1, R2 = H or Me; X = direct bond or -CH(OR3)-; R3 = H or 1-20 C saturated or unsaturated alkyl or acyl; A, A' = 10-30 C saturated or unsaturated alkyl, acyl or hydroxyacyl; or a polyester residue of formula -ÄCO-R"-CHR'-OÜb-H; R' = 1-20 C alkyl; R" = 1-20 C alkylene; b = 2-202.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations little viscous type water-in-oil.

The present invention relates to preparations cosmetic and dermatological type water-in-oil, to processes for its elaboration and its use for cosmetic and medicinal purposes.

Human skin, as a major body organ extension, exerts various functions of vital importance. With some 2 m 2 of surface area in adults corresponds to a role predominant as a protective and sensory organ. Your mission is to do of defensive barrier against mechanical, thermal aggressions, Actinic, chemical and biological. It also has a role significant as a regulatory and metabolic receptor organ human.

As cosmetic skin care you have to understand first of all the reinforcement or restoration of its function natural barrier against external agents (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of body substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes), as well as the protection of the natural power of regeneration of its layer Cornea when damaged.

When the barrier properties of the skin can produce a greater resorption of toxic substances or allergens or the attack of microorganisms and therefore reactions toxic or allergic skin.

The skin hygiene also for the purpose of compensating the loss of fat and water caused by daily skin washing, which is important precisely when the power of natural regeneration Also, skin hygiene products they must protect the skin from external agents, especially from the sun and of the wind, and delay its aging.

Topical medicinal compositions They usually contain one or several medications in effective concentration.  For the sake of simplicity, to clearly distinguish between use cosmetic and medicinal use, and the corresponding products, are refers to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg cosmetic regulation, product law food and pharmaceutical).

As emulsions you have to understand in a way general heterogeneous systems formed by two liquids immiscible or poorly miscible with each other, usually called phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine drops in the other liquid.

When both liquids are water and oil and there are oil droplets finely dispersed in water, this is a oil-in-water emulsion (emulsion O / W, p. ex. milk). The fundamental character of an O / W emulsion It is marked by water. In the case of an emulsion water-in-oil (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, and therefore here the fundamental character is marked by oil.

Regarding the maintenance of substances in the skin, for example UV absorbers and moisturizers, Cosmetic and dermatological products in the form of W / O formulations They have advantages over O / W formulations.

Naturally the specialist knows many alternatives to formulate stable W / O preparations for cosmetic use or dermatological, for example in the form of creams and ointments, applicable at a temperature between environmental and the skin, or in the form of lotions and milks, which are more fluid in This temperature range. However, in the technical state it they know few formulations that are sufficiently fluid as to spray them, for example.

In addition, low viscosity preparations known in the technical state often have the disadvantage of be unstable and be limited to a narrow range of application or to a restricted selection of substances. Therefore not today there are low viscosity products on the market that contain, for example, very polar oils - like oils vegetables frequently used in commercial products- sufficiently stabilized

W / O emulsions of low viscosity and stable at storage as current market products require They can only be formulated very laboriously. Therefore the offer of such formulations is extremely low. However, until date, these formulations have not been able to offer the user the known cosmetic benefits.

A serious inconvenience of the emulsions of the technical status is often its lack of stability against high concentrations of electrolytes, which results in separation of phases. But it is often preferable to use certain electrolytes, such as water-soluble UV filters, to be able to take advantage of its special physical, chemical or physiological Although in many cases this can be remedied in a certain way. measure by choosing the appropriate emulsifying system, then also Other disadvantages arise.

Such disadvantages may be due for example to that emulsifiers, as after all substance chemical, can cause allergy or hypersensitivity reactions in the user, although of course the use of emulsifiers Usual in cosmetics is generally harmless.

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The concentrations of all the ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation is usually indicated in units as% by weight,% molar, etc. Due to its dissociation more or less strong in cations and anions - often in several stages of dissociation - in the case of the present invention it seems more appropriate from the ionic strength of a given electrolyte in its dissolution.

The ionic strength I of an electrolyte solution is defined as

one

where c 1 represents the concentration of each ionic species (in moles / l) and z 1 its charge index. The physical unit of the ionic force is that of a concentration (moles / l).

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For example, a 1% solution of sodium chloride (i.e. 0.17-molar) therefore has an ionic strength of I = 0.17 mol / l.

In the literature (eg Seife, Öle, Fette, Wachse [Soaps, oils, fats, waxes], volume 110 (15), p. 427 et seq.) Cosmetic preparations of the type are described water-in-oil containing a organic phase, an aqueous phase whose ionic strength is 1.7 and a emulsifying system

US 5162378 discloses preparations water-in-oil type cosmetics, whose aqueous phase carries 8-20% electrolytes and the emulsifying system an ester of polyglycerin and fatty acid.

WO 9817232 discloses a preparation water-in-oil type cosmetic, which comprises a mixture of several W / O emulsifiers and contains organic salts in the aqueous phase.

EP 834306 describes preparations water-in-oil type cosmetics, whose aqueous phase contains at least 2% by weight of electrolytes and the emulsifying system comprises an ester of polyglycerin and acid fatty.

DE 4126969 describes preparations water-in-oil type cosmetics, whose aqueous phase contains at least 2% by weight of electrolytes and the emulsifying system carries copolyol cetyl dimethicone, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate and hexyl laurate

DE 4243119 describes preparations water-in-oil type cosmetics, containing an emulsifying combination of three components in the what's up polyglyceryl-3-diiso-stearate.

Patent DE 4420516 discloses the use of polyglycerin-polyhydroxystearates as W / O emulsifiers for cosmetic preparations.

An objective of the present invention was prepare type preparations water-in-oil that had very low  viscosity, but without the disadvantages of the technical state. Other objective of the present invention was to reveal solution paths for least viscous cosmetic or dermatological W / O emulsions possible, that they were stable against large concentrations of electrolyte - or high ionic forces.

These goals are surprisingly resolved with cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the type water-in-oil, low viscosity, that contain

(one)

a organic phase that carries one or more oils, fats and / or waxes;

(2)

 a aqueous phase that has dissolved one or more electrolytes, the ionic strength of the aqueous phase of at least 0.075 mol / l, Y

(3)

 a emulsifying system, consisting of at least two emulsifiers chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3-diisoestearate, polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxy stearate, PEG-30-dipolihydroxystearate and, yes desired, auxiliary substances, additives and / or active ingredients usual cosmetic or dermatological.

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The viscosity of the preparations is less than 2,000 mPa \ cdots.

For the specialist it was unpredictable that prepared according to the present invention

-

were easier to formulate,

-

they had greater stability against a decomposition in the organic and aqueous phases, and

-

better sensory properties, such as for example ease of application on the skin or ability to insight into it, that state preparations technical.

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The preparations of the present invention assume therefore an enrichment of the technical state as emulsions Low viscosity W / O stable against electrolytes.

Both German patent 44 09 569 and the German patent application 44 20 516 already describe emulsifiers W / O in the form of polyglycerinpolyricinoleates or polyol polyhydroxy stearates, which give emulsions equally stable of low viscosity with various oils. Do not However, in the examples mentioned therein it turns out that "low viscosity" formulations have a minimum viscosity of 8,000 mPa \ cdots. In general the viscosity of such examples is even clearly exceeding a value of 10,000 mPa \ cdots.

As regards the incorporation of electrolytes, the technical status according to the two documents DE 44 09 569 C1 and DE 44 20 516 A1 also does not go in the way of the present invention. According to the descriptions and examples these prepared They may also contain salts. However in the place cited only magnesium sulfate is indicated as electrolyte for this use.

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Emulsifiers

According to the present invention they have resulted especially advantageous emulsifying systems in which at least one of both emulsifiers is polyglyceryl-3-diisoestearate.

These isostearic acid esters can acquired, for example, under the product designation "Lameform TGI" by Henkel KGaA.

According to the present invention they have resulted especially advantageous emulsifying systems in which at least one of both emulsifiers is "polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxystearate", which is registered with the numbers 156531-21-4 and 144470-58-6 in the "Chemical Abstracts "and that can be obtained with the trademark DEHYMULS® PGPH by Henkel KGaA.

According to the present invention it is very especially advantageous that one of both emulsifiers is PEG-30-dipolihydroxy stearate, sold by the company ICI Surfactants with the trademark ARLACEL® P135.

The condition for the use of emulsifiers described above, according to the purposes of the present invention, is naturally, the substances used are safe from cosmetic and dermatological point of view.

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Electrolytes

According to the present invention, the one or more electrolytes are advantageously chosen from the following groups (1) to (3):

(1) Certain UV filter substances, almost always in the form of alkaline salts, especially those that carry its molecular structure one or more sulfonic acid groups or sulphonate As examples we can mention in this case: the acid 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethylammonium

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2

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sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably acid 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonic and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or tri-ethylammonium:

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3

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sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene-camphor, as p. ex. the acid 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) -benzene sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethylammonium:

4

the acid 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) -benzene sulfonic acid and its salts, for example sodium, potassium or triethylammonium:

5

he 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl) -benzene and its salts (the respective 10-sulfate compounds, for example sodium, potassium or triethylammonium), also called acid 1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) -10-sulfonic:

6

(2) Amino acids and their salts or anions.

Amino acids are part of the natural factor. of hydration (the so-called "Natural Moisturizing Factor"): The Hydrolipid mantle is the outermost layer that regulates the content of moisture in the corneal layer. Inside the cornea layer, that is, from the epidermis alive to the surface, there is a sharp fall in humidity. The water-soluble components constitute the mixture known as "Natural Moisturizing Factor" (NMF), which is hydrophilic and weakly hygroscopic and has important functions.

Therefore the addition of amino acids, especially essential amino acids, should be considered advantageous, because hydration processes can be set moisture in the skin

Amino acids of cosmetic or dermatological effect Particularly advantageous are glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, proline, hydroxyproline, serine, Threonine, cysteine, methionine, tryptophan, arginine.

(3) Acids α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic and cosmetic? -hydroxycarboxylic or dermatologically relevant, and especially its salts, whose cations can be selected from the group consisting of ions ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, metal alkaline earth, magnesium, iron and zinc.

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Acids cosmetic α-hydroxycarboxylic or dermatologically relevant follow the general formula

7

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Acids cosmetic? -hydroxycarboxylic or dermatologically relevant follow the general formula

8

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Acids α-ketocarboxylic cosmetics or dermatologically relevant follow the general formula

9

where R 'and R' 'are chosen respectively and independently of each other from the following groups (a) until (and)

(a) H-,

(b) alkyl C_ {1-25} -branched or linear,

(c) alkyl C_ {1-25} -branched or linear substituted with one or more carboxyl and / or hydroxyl and / or aldehyde groups and / or oxo (ketone groups),

(d) phenyl-,

(e) phenyl-substituted with one or more carboxyl and / or hydroxyl and / or alkyl groups C 1-25 branched and / or linear, or forming the α-carbon atom and the β-carbon atom of the acid β-hydroxycarboxylic together with R 'and R' '

(f) a cycloalkyl or aryl group not substituted, with a ring of 3 to 7 atoms, or

(g) a cycloalkyl or aryl group, with a ring of 3 to 7 atoms, substituted with one or more carboxyl groups and / or hydroxyl and / or oxo (ketone groups) and / or alkyl C 1-25 branched and / or linear,

and where acids α-hydroxycarboxylic or β-hydroxycarboxylic or α-ketocarboxylic acids can be in the form of its physiologically compatible salts.

Acids α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic and α-ketocarboxylic used according to the present invention are advantageously chosen from the following kinds of substances, which are also listed on behalf of their salts or anions:

Salicylic acid (also acidic 2-hydroxybenzoic, spiric acid), characterized by the structure

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10

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As is known, salicylic acid has an action antibacterial and keratolytic and is part of some preparations Cosmetics or pharmaceuticals.

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Acids α-hydroxycarboxylic acids used according to The present invention is advantageously chosen from the following classes of substances (h) to (k):

(h) fatty acids α-hydroxylates, which in turn are chosen advantageously of the acid group C10-18 alkylcarboxylic acids,

(i) acids α-hydroxysaccharics and acids aliphatic α-hydroxyfrutals,

(j) acids non-aromatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids substituted (eg mandelic acid) or

(k) acids aromatic α-hydroxycarboxylic acids replaced.

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Fatty acids α-hydroxylates of point (h) are chosen very advantageously of the group of

- acids α-hydroxycarboxylic according to the formula

eleven

I

- acids α-hydroxy-isocarboxylic according to the formula

12

I

- acids α-hydroxy-anteisocarboxylic according to the formula

13

where n is respectively a number from 7 to 31.

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Mixtures may also be advantageously used. of such α-hydroxycarboxylic acids aliphatic, especially in the form of mixtures of lanolinic acids whose content of α-hydroxycarboxylic is from 20-30% by weight with respect to the total composition of the mixture.

Acids α-hydroxysaccharics of item (i) are chosen very advantageously of the group of

-

acids aldonic, p. ex. gluconic acid, galactonic acid

-

aldaric acids, e.g. ex. glucaric acid, galactaric acid (but also tartaric fruit acid, which also falls within the definition of aldaric acids)

-

acids uronic, p. ex. glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid

-

acid glyceric

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Acids α-hydroxyfrutals of point (i) are chosen very advantageously of the group consisting of malic, lactic acids, citrus, tartaric.

Malic acid (hydroxysuccinic) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

14

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Lactic acid (2-hydroxypropanoic acid) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

fifteen

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Citric acid (2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanotrioic) It is characterized by the following chemical structure:

16

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As is known, citric acid is used to buffer cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, but also as synergistic agent for antioxidants in skin cosmetics and The hair.

Tartaric acid (dihydroxysuccinic) is characterized by the following chemical structure:

17

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As acid α-ketocarboxylic acid is preferred pyruvic (α-oxopropanoic), which characterized by the following structure:

18

The maximum amount of usable electrolytes it ultimately depends on its solubility in the aqueous phase. The The present invention basically establishes models, but no ceilings of maximum amount, because for any reason you can even it is advantageous to incorporate a cosmetic preparation or dermatological of an additional amount of electrolyte greater than its solubility, for example as an undissolved solid.

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Organic phase

The organic phase of the W / O emulsions according to the The present invention is advantageously chosen from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, specifically of triglycerinesters of saturated alkanocarboxylic acids and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear, with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C atoms. fatty acid triglycerides can be chosen advantageously, by example, from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural, such as p. ex. those of olive, sunflower, soy, peanut, rapeseed, almond, palm, coconut, castor, wheat germ, nugget Grape, thistle, evening primrose and other analogues.

In the present invention, oils are also advantageously choose from the group consisting of petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil and polyolefins. Preferred substances among Polyolefins are polydecenes.

According to the present invention the organic phase it can also be advantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched alkanocarboxylic acids and / or linear 3 to 30 C atoms of chain length with saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear alcohols of 3 up to 30 C atoms of chain length, as well as the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids with alcohols saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or linear from 3 to 30 atoms of C chain length. These steric oils can choose conveniently from the group consisting of myristate of isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, laurate of n-hexyl, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononanoate isononyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate 2-ethyl-hexyl stearate 2-hexyldecyl palmitate 2-octyl dodecyl heptane stearyl, oleyl oleate, oily erucate, erucilo oleate, belching erucate, as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural esters of said esters, such as p. ex. the oil of jojoba

In addition the organic phase can be chosen advantageously of the group of hydrocarbons and waxes of branched and linear hydrocarbon, of silicone oils, of dialkyl ethers, from the group of saturated alcohols or unsaturated, branched or linear.

According to the present invention it can also any mixture of said components is advantageously used Oily and waxy. If necessary, it may also be advantageous to use of waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole component lipid of the organic phase.

Among the hydrocarbons can be used advantageously, according to the present invention, paraffin oil, Squalane and Squalane.

Also the organic phase may contain advantageously cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist totally of them, although anyway it is preferable that, in addition of silicone oil or oils, carry an additional content of Other oil components.

How silicone oil is used advantageously according to the present invention cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane). But according to the present invention the use of other silicone oils may also be advantageous, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methyl-phenylsiloxane).

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Auxiliary substances and cosmetic additives and dermatological

The aqueous phase of the preparations of the present invention advantageously contains, where appropriate, alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl- or -butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl-, -monoethyl- or -monobutylether, diethylene glycolmonomethyl- or -monoethyl ether and similar products; also alcohols of low C number, p. ex. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin, as well as especially one or more thickeners, which can be advantageously chosen from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, e.g. ex. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, and especially advantageously of the polyacrylate group, preferably a poly-acrylate of the group of so-called Carbopoles, for example Carbopoles of the types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or ETD types (Easy-to-disperse [ easily dispersible ]), either alone in any combination with each other.

Special preparations are also obtained. advantageous using antioxidants as additives or principles assets. According to the present invention, the preparations carry advantageously one or more antioxidants. As antioxidants propitious, although optional, all those who are appropriate or usual for cosmetic applications and / or dermatological

Antioxidants are advantageously chosen from group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and its derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and its derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carno-sina, L-carnosine and its derivatives (eg anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (eg? -carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and its derivatives, acid liponic and its derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and its esters of glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl) as well as its salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionate distearyl, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), as well as sulfoximin compounds (eg butioninsulfoximin, homocysteinesulfoximin, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptationinsulfoximin) in very low compatible dosages (e.g. ex. from pmol to umol / kg), also chelants (from metals) (p. ex. α-hydroxylated fatty acids, acid palmitic acid, phytinic acid, lactoferrin), acids α-hydroxylates (eg citric acid, acid lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, extracts bile, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg acid γ-linolenic, linolic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl-phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), as well as benzoate benzoin coniferyl, rutinic acid and its derivatives, acid ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxy-anisole, nordihydroguayaconic acid, nordihydroguayretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium-methionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. ex. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the suitable derivatives according to the present invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active principles.

Especially advantageous according to the present invention fat soluble antioxidants can be used.

An amazing property of the preparations of the present invention is that they constitute a very good vehicle for the skin penetration of cosmetic active ingredients or dermatological, with antioxidants being preferred as such to protect the skin against oxidative aggressions. In this case Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives, as well like vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or several compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially 0.05-20% by weight, especially 1-10% by weight, based on total weight of the preparation

Provided that the antioxidant (s) are Vitamin E and / or its derivatives should be their respective concentrations are in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Provided that the antioxidant (s) are vitamin A or its derivatives, or carotene or its derivatives, it is appropriate that their respective concentrations be included in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on weight Total formulation.

Naturally the specialist already knows that in the most cases cosmetic preparations are unimaginable without the auxiliary substances and the usual additives. Therefore the cosmetic and dermatological preparations of the present invention they can also carry normally used auxiliary components in cosmetics, for example additives to give consistency, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, defoamers, dyes, pigments, thickeners, surfactants, emulsifiers, emollient agents, moisturizers and / or humectants, anti-inflammatory substances, other active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, photoprotective agents, repellents of insects, bactericides, virucidal, water, salts, substances of action antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic, medications or other usual ingredients in a cosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or other electrolytes.

The latter can be chosen, for example, from group of salts with the following anions: chlorides, also Oxo-Element inorganic anions, including all, sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates. Anion-based electrolytes are also advantageous organic, such as p. ex. lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates, amino acids, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and Your salts and others. As cations of the salts, the ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, metal ions alkaline earth, magnesium, iron and zinc. Needless to say, in Only physiologically safe electrolytes should be used. Especially preferred is potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures of same.

Mutatis mutandis are worth the same requirements for medicinal preparations.

W / O emulsions according to the present invention they can be the basis of cosmetic or dermatological formulations that they can have the usual composition and serve, for example, for treatment and care of the skin and / or hair, as a protector lipstick, as a deodorant and as a makeup product and makeup removal in decorative cosmetics, or as prepared photoprotector For use, cosmetic preparations and Dermatological of the present invention are applied in quantity enough on the skin and / or hair, as it is done usually with cosmetic products.

According to their composition the corresponding cosmetic or dermatological formulations for topical use according to the present invention can be used, for example, as a cream of skin protection, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nourishing cream, day or night cream, etc. If necessary, also It is possible and advantageous to use the compositions herein invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

The cosmetic or dermatological products of low viscosity according to the present invention may be in shape of sprays prepared by aerosol containers, bottles squeezers or pumping devices, or in the form of a composition liquid applicable with ball devices, but also as a Applicable emulsion packaged in normal bottles and containers.

To spray the cosmetic compositions or dermatological according to the present invention by means of containers of aerosol are suitable highly volatile liquefied propellants, normally known, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or mixed together. Too compressed air can be used advantageously.

Naturally the specialist knows that there are gases basically suitable propellants for the execution of this invention in the form of aerosol preparations, but of the which should be dispensed with for its harmful effect on the environment environment or for other circumstances, specifically hydrocarbons fluorocarbons or fluorochlorocarbons (CFC).

The preparations are also advantageous Cosmetic and dermatological in the form of sunscreens, which, in addition to the combinations of active ingredients of the present invention, contain at least one filter substance of UV-A and / or at least one filter substance of UV-B and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However according to the present invention also It is advantageous to prepare cosmetic preparations and dermatological whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, even if they carry UV protective substances. So, p. For example, filter substances of UV-A or UV-B to day creams. UV protective substances, as well as antioxidants and optionally preservatives, effectively protect prepared against rot.

In addition the preparations of the present invention they can advantageously carry radiation absorbing substances UV in the UV-B region, so that the total amount of filtering substances, e.g. for example, from 0.1% by weight to 30% in weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, especially 1.0 to 10 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for provide cosmetic preparations that protect hair or skin against the entire spectrum of ultraviolet radiation. Too They can serve as sunscreens for hair or skin.

When the emulsions of the present invention contain UV-B filter substances, they can be fat-soluble or water-soluble. As fat-soluble UV-B filter substances are advantageous according to the present invention.
p. ex .:

-

the 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor;

-

the 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoate 2-ethylhexyl, 4- (dimethylamino) -amyl benzoate;

-

the esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate;

-

the esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylate of 2-ethylhexyl salicylate 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate homomentyl;

-

the benzophenone derivatives, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

-

the esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonate di (2-ethylhexyl);

-

2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

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Naturally the list of the aforementioned filters of UVB that can be used in combination with the mixtures of principles assets according to the present invention should not be exclusive.

It may also be advantageous to formulate the lipodispersions of the present invention with UVA filters that up to Now they usually contain cosmetic preparations. In the case of these substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, especially from the 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and of the 1-phenyl-3- (4'-iso-propylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to The present invention can also carry inorganic pigments, which in cosmetics are often used to protect the skin from UV rays. In this case it is titanium oxides, zinc, iron, Zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures of themselves, as well as modifications in which the oxides are active agents. With special preference it is pigments based on titanium dioxide.

As additional ingredients can be used:

-

fats, waxes and other solid lipids natural and synthetic, preferably fatty acid esters with low C alcohols, p. ex. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with acids alkanocarboxylic of low C number or with fatty acids;

-

low alcohols, diols or polyols C number, as well as its ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl- or -butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl-, -monoethyl- or -monobutylether, diethylene glycol monomethyl- or -monoethyl ether and products Similar.

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The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention, but without limiting it. In them the values Numeric are indicated in percentages by weight with respect to weight Total of the corresponding preparations.

Example 1

19

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Example 2

twenty-one

Example 3

22

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Example 4

24

Example 5

25

Example 6

27

Example 7

28

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Example 8

30

Example 9

31

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Example 10

33

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(Continuation)

3. 4

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Example 11

35

Example 12

36

Claims (7)

1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations of water-in-oil type, low viscosity, which contain

(one)

a organic phase that carries one or more oils, fats and / or waxes,

(2)

a aqueous phase that has dissolved one or more electrolytes, the ionic strength of the aqueous phase of at least 0.075 mol / l, Y

(3)

a emulsifying system, consisting of at least two emulsifiers chosen from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3-diisoestearate, polyglyceryl-2-polyhydroxy stearate, PEG-30-dipolihydroxystearate,

characterized in that its viscosity is less than 2,000 mPa.cots.

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2. Prepared according to claim 1, characterized in that it also contains other auxiliary substances, additives and / or active ingredients of cosmetic or dermatological type that correspondingly decrease the content of (2). 3. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that their viscosity is less than 1,500 mPa · dots. 4. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the electrolytes are chosen from the group of water-soluble UV filter substances that carry one or more sulfonic acid or sulphonate groups in their molecular structure. 5. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the electrolytes are chosen from the group of amino acids and their salts. 6. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the electrolytes are chosen from the group of α-hydroxycarboxylic, α-ketocarboxylic and β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their cosmetically or dermatologically relevant salts. 7. Use of the preparations according to claim 1 as a vehicle for the transport of principles active to the skin.