JP2000248461A - Method for producing stretch woven / knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) Abstract: A woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber which contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state is subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state, followed by high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment or alkali. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers, characterized by being treated, and a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers, and then subjected to a non-tension state or a slightly tension state. With liquid ammonia,
Thereafter, a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers, which is followed by high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment, or alkali treatment. [Effect] An excellent stretch property can be imparted to a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers while maintaining the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fibers.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretch woven / knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers capable of imparting excellent stretch performance to a woven / knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, the following method is known as a method for imparting stretchability to a woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers.

(1) A woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn of an elastic yarn such as polyurethane and a cellulosic fiber, and a woven or knitted fabric obtained by cross-weaving or knitting a yarn, a woven fabric or a knitted fabric while the elastic yarn is stretched. And a method utilizing the extensibility and shrinkage of the elastic yarn. (2) A woven or knitted fabric using a composite yarn of a synthetic fiber and a cellulosic fiber, which is a method utilizing the crimping and torque of the synthetic fiber. A method using false twisted yarn and conjugate yarn. (3) A woven or knitted fabric using a yarn composed of strong twisted yarn of cellulosic fiber such as cotton.
A method that utilizes the property that the torque of a strong twist yarn is developed and the yarn takes a spiral shape. (4) A method called slack mercerize (commonly called chemical stretch) that utilizes the property that cellulose fibers swell and shrink when a woven or knitted fabric using a yarn composed of cellulosic fibers such as cotton is treated with caustic soda. By way.

[0004]

However, a woven or knitted fabric using the above-mentioned (1) composite yarn of an elastic yarn such as polyurethane and cellulosic fiber, and the composite of the above-mentioned (2) synthetic fiber and cellulosic fiber. In woven and knitted fabric using yarn,
There is a problem that it is difficult to obtain the unique touch and physical properties of cellulosic fibers such as cotton.

The stretch woven / knitted fabric of cellulosic fibers obtained by the above methods (3) and (4) has stretchability and shrinkage, but has poor stretchback force (kickback force) and low market evaluation. There is a problem.

That is, according to the above methods (3) and (4), stretchability and shrinkage are imparted to the woven or knitted cellulosic fiber, but these have a low recovery rate after elongation and a low commercial value. In order to solve this drawback, in the state where the yarn is contracted, or in the state where torque is developed and in a spiral shape, heat treatment under high temperature and high pressure, or processing of glyoxal resin is performed. Although the shapes are fixed, there is a problem that none of them is sufficient.

The method of imparting stretchability by the slack mercerizing method (4) is to perform caustic soda treatment without tension in the weft direction, but caustic soda is an aqueous solution and permeates cellulose-based fibers. Is bad,
In addition, there is a problem that the swelling effect of the cellulosic fiber is small and sufficient shrinkage cannot be imparted.

[0008] The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned problems, and provides a woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers with excellent stretchability while maintaining the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fibers. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber that can be provided.

[0009]

Means for Solving the Problems and Embodiments of the Invention As a result of diligent studies to achieve the above object, the present inventor has found that 20% by liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state.
The woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers that contracts as described above is subjected to liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tension state, so that the ammonia swells into the cellulosic fibers at the same time as the crystal transformation, the fibers swell, and the diameter of the fibers increases, The fibers shrink in the length direction, and as a result, the woven or knitted fabric shrinks greatly, and excellent stretchability can be imparted. In addition, high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment is applied to the cellulose fibers in such a shrunk state. Or by performing an alkali treatment,
The contracted state is fixed as a more stable shape, and the property (recovery force) of returning to the contracted shape even when stress is applied to the woven or knitted fabric works effectively, and a high elongation rate and a high recovery rate after elongation The present inventors have found that a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulose-based fiber having excellent stretch performance and having excellent durability can be obtained, and the present invention has been accomplished.

[0010] Accordingly, the present invention is characterized in that, firstly, a cellulose-based woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulose-based fiber which contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state is subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of fibers. Secondly, a woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber that contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state is subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state, followed by high-temperature water treatment Thirdly, a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers, which is characterized by steam treatment, and thirdly, a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers that contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state, without tension. Cellulosic fiber characterized by being treated with liquid ammonia in this state and then treated with alkali Made to provide a method of manufacturing a stretch woven or knitted fabric.

In this case, it is preferable that the tensionless state in the liquid ammonia treatment of the first to third inventions is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of improving productivity.

Further, as a result of further intensive studies, the present inventor has found that similarly excellent stretch performance can be imparted by another method.

That is, by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers, the twisting of the strong twisted yarn is loosened and a torque is developed, and the yarn tends to change into a spiral shape. A torque force is generated, and the woven or knitted fabric is strongly contracted by the torque force, and the woven or knitted fabric in a contracted state (a state in which the yarn has a spiral shape) is subjected to liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state or a slightly tensioned state. By applying high temperature water treatment, steam treatment or alkali treatment to the liquid ammonia-treated woven or knitted fabric in such a contracted state, the contracted state can be more firmly fixed. It is possible to extend by the contracted length, and the property (recovery force) of returning to the contracted shape even if the woven or knitted fabric is stretched by applying stress. It has been found that a stretch woven / knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers that work effectively, have a high elongation rate and a high recovery rate after elongation, and are durable and have unprecedented superior stretch performance can be obtained. Invented the invention.

Accordingly, the present invention is characterized in that the woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers is relaxed, and then subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state or a slightly tensioned state. Fifth, after relaxing or weaving a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of cellulose fiber, liquid ammonia is produced in a non-tensioned state or a slightly tensioned state. Processing, followed by high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment, a method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers, and sixthly, a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting strong twisted yarn composed of cellulosic fibers. After the treatment, the cellulose is treated with liquid ammonia in a non-strained state or a slightly strained state, and then alkali-treated. To provide a method of manufacturing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of the system fiber.

In this case, it is preferable that the tensionless state or the slight tension state in the liquid ammonia treatment of the fourth to sixth inventions is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric from the viewpoint of improving productivity.

Further, the inventor of the present invention performs any one of the production methods of the first to sixth aspects of the present invention, and performs a resin process on a woven or knitted material having excellent stretchability, thereby obtaining a more excellent process. It has been found that stretchability can be imparted.

Accordingly, a seventh aspect of the present invention is to provide a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulosic fiber, characterized by performing the method according to any one of the first to sixth aspects of the present invention, and thereafter subjecting the method to resin processing. And a method for producing the same.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
The method for producing a stretch-woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers according to the first to third inventions of the present invention is a method for producing a woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers which shrinks by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state. Liquid ammonia treatment, or high-temperature water treatment or steam treatment or alkali treatment thereafter.

Here, as the cellulosic fiber, cotton,
Examples include natural fibers such as hemp, regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon, cupra, and lyocell, and semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate. These may be used alone or in combination. In this case, the cellulosic fiber is usually 50% cotton fiber.
Or more, more preferably 70% or more, still more preferably cotton 1
00% is preferred from the viewpoint of providing excellent stretchability. It is to be noted that other fibers such as synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyamide may be mixed with these natural or regenerated cellulose fibers or semi-synthetic fibers as long as the object of the present invention is not impaired.

The above-mentioned cellulose fiber is twisted by a usual spinning method to form a yarn, and the yarn is woven or knitted by a usual method to obtain a woven or knitted product comprising the cellulose fiber.
The cellulose fiber yarn may be a normal twist yarn or a strong twist yarn, but a strong twist yarn is preferred from the viewpoint of imparting stretchability.

The woven or knitted fabric composed of the cellulosic fibers used in the first to third inventions of the present invention is subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state as described later, whereby ammonia quickly penetrates into the cellulosic fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric. The fiber swells to increase the diameter of the fiber and shrink in the length direction of the fiber. As a result, the woven or knitted fabric shrinks by 20% or more. When the shrinkage ratio is less than 20%, since the shrinkage due to the liquid ammonia treatment in a non-strain state is small, the expression of the stretch property becomes insufficient. In this case, the shrinkage of the woven or knitted fabric can be achieved by appropriately adjusting the woven density, woven structure, and the like.

First, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers according to the first invention of the present invention comprises the steps of: Treat with liquid ammonia under tension.

This liquid ammonia treatment is carried out in a tensionless state, but it is particularly preferable that the tensionless state is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. This is because the woven or knitted fabric is treated with no tension in the weft direction and with ammonia in the warp direction. This is because productivity can be improved.

For the liquid ammonia treatment, for example, a method of impregnating the woven or knitted material with liquid ammonia maintained at a temperature of -33 ° C. or lower, a method of spraying or coating liquid ammonia, and the like can be adopted. In this case, the impregnation time of the liquid ammonia is appropriately selected, but is usually preferably about 5 to 40 seconds.

In the liquid ammonia treatment, liquid ammonia is most commonly used, but in some cases, lower alkylamines such as methylamine and ethylamine may be used. The woven or knitted fabric subjected to the liquid ammonia treatment removes the attached ammonia by heating.

As described above, by performing the liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tension state, the woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fiber is contracted by 20% or more, and excellent stretchability is imparted.

Next, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers according to the second and third inventions of the present invention comprises: High-temperature water treatment, steam treatment, or alkali treatment is performed.

The high-temperature water treatment or the steam treatment comprises:
A woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers is usually 90 to 150 ° C.
Immersion in high-temperature water, or in a steam atmosphere with tension or no tension. Note that the tension state here is preferably a slight tension state that is strong enough to maintain the contracted shape of the woven or knitted fabric as much as possible.

Specifically, in the case of high-temperature water treatment, a device such as a high-pressure beam dyeing machine or a high-pressure Jigger dyeing machine can be used in a tensioned state. In the case of the steam treatment, it can be performed using a device such as a continuous high-temperature and high-pressure steamer.

On the other hand, in the case of high-temperature water treatment, a device such as a high-pressure jet dyeing machine, a high-pressure drum dyeing machine, a high-pressure paddle dyeing machine or the like can be used in the case of high-temperature water treatment. In the case of steam processing, it can be performed using a device such as a batch type steamer.

In this case, the time of the high-temperature water treatment or the steam treatment varies depending on the temperature of the high-temperature water or the steam and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 5 minutes to 5 hours.

Further, more specific conditions of the high-temperature water treatment or the steam treatment are preferably as follows.

<High Temperature Water Treatment> (a) 90 ° C. or more and less than 98 ° C .: 2 hours or more, preferably 2 to 5 hours (b) 98 ° C. or more and less than 105 ° C .: 1.5 hours or more, preferably 2 to 5 hours 5 hours (c) 105 ° C or more and less than 115 ° C: 1 hour or more, preferably 1.5 to 5 hours (d) 115 ° C or more and less than 125 ° C: 40 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours (e) 125 ° C or more Less than 135 ° C: 30 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours (f) 135 ° C or more and less than 150 ° C: 20 minutes or more, preferably 1 to 5 hours

<Steam Treatment> (a) 90 ° C. to less than 98 ° C .: 1.5 hours or more, preferably 1.5 to 5 hours (b) 98 ° C. to less than 105 ° C .: 1 hour or more, preferably 1 hour (C) 105 ° C or more and less than 115 ° C: 40 minutes or more, preferably 40 minutes to 4 hours (d) 115 ° C or more and less than 125 ° C: 25 minutes or more, preferably 25 minutes to 2.5 hours (e) 125 ° C or more and less than 135 ° C: 15 minutes or more, preferably 15 minutes to 1.5 hours (f) 135 ° C or more and less than 150 ° C: 5 minutes or more, preferably 5 minutes to 1 hour

The alkali treatment is carried out under tension or non-tension in a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers. As an alkali agent, a strong alkali agent such as lithium hydroxide, caustic soda, caustic potash, or a sodium carbonate or bicarbonate is used. Although a weak alkaline agent can be used, caustic soda is preferred in terms of workability and cost. In addition, you may use another alkaline chemical as needed.

In the present invention, an alkaline agent is used as an aqueous solution or the like. As the alkaline aqueous solution, an alkali concentration of 0.1 to
It can be carried out by using a material of 40% by weight and immersing at a temperature of -10 ° C to 150 ° C for 20 seconds to 24 hours.

Further, the specific conditions of the alkali treatment are different between the case where a strong alkali such as caustic soda is used and the case where a weak alkali such as sodium carbonate is used, and the respective conditions are preferably as follows.

<When a Strong Alkaline Agent is Used> (a) When the alkali concentration is 0.1 to less than 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, the treatment temperature is 90 ° C.
The temperature is 150C, preferably 98C to 150C, and more preferably 110C to 140C. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent to be used, the treatment temperature and the like, and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 1 minute to 5 hours, preferably 10 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably 20 minutes to 3 hours. is there. (B) an alkali concentration of 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 1
In the case of 5 to 30% by weight, the processing temperature is -10C to 90C.
° C, preferably 10 ° C to 40 ° C. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent to be used, the treatment temperature, and the like, and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 20 seconds to 24 hours, preferably 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably 3 minutes to
5 hours.

<When a weak alkali agent is used> The alkali concentration is 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10% by weight.
In the case of the above, the processing temperature is 90 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably 9 ° C.
8 ° C to 150 ° C, more preferably 110 ° C to 140 ° C. The treatment time varies depending on the concentration of the alkaline agent to be used, the treatment temperature and the like and cannot be specified unconditionally, but is usually 10 minutes to 5 hours, preferably 20 minutes to 3 hours.

In any of the above alkali treatments, if the alkali concentration is too low, the effect of the alkali treatment may not be sufficiently obtained. On the other hand, if the alkali concentration is too high, the effect may be further improved. In some cases, it may take time and cost to remove the alkali by the neutralization treatment in the subsequent step.

The alkali treatment can be performed on a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers in a tensioned or non-tensioned state. Note that the tension state here is preferably a slight tension state that is strong enough to maintain the shape of the contracted woven or knitted fabric as much as possible.

When the alkali treatment is carried out under tension, as a specific apparatus, when the treatment temperature is 90 ° C. or higher, a high-pressure beam dyeing machine, a high-pressure Jigger dyeing machine, or the like can be used. When the processing temperature is lower than 90 ° C.,
It can be performed using a device such as a mercerizing machine, a usual beam dyeing machine, or a jigger dyeing machine, but usually a mercerizing machine is preferable.

On the other hand, when the alkali treatment is carried out without tension, and when the treatment temperature is 90 ° C. or higher, a high-pressure jet dyeing machine is used.
Devices such as a high-pressure drum dyeing machine and a high-pressure paddle dyeing machine can be used. When the processing temperature is lower than 90 ° C.,
It can be carried out using an apparatus such as a conventional jet dyeing machine, a drum dyeing machine, and a paddle dyeing machine.

The alkali-treated woven or knitted fabric is neutralized and washed with water. The neutralization treatment can be performed using an inorganic acid such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid, or an organic acid such as acetic acid or formic acid.

By performing high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment, or alkali treatment after the liquid ammonia treatment in this manner, the shape of the woven or knitted fabric contracted by the liquid ammonia treatment is more firmly fixed, and a high elongation rate and elongation are achieved. Excellent stretch performance with a high recovery rate later.

Next, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers according to the fourth to sixth inventions of the present invention comprises the steps of: Liquid ammonia treatment with no tension or slight tension, or high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment or alkali treatment.

Here, as the cellulosic fiber, those similar to the above-mentioned first to third inventions can be used, and the cellulosic fiber is twisted by an ordinary spinning method to form a strongly twisted yarn. As a spinning method, ring spinning, open-end spinning, or the like can be used. Here, the count of the high-twisted yarn is appropriately set depending on the application.
And the twist coefficient is preferably 4 to 9, and more preferably 6 to 8. If the twist coefficient is less than 4, the torque may not be sufficiently developed during the relaxation process. on the other hand,
When the twist coefficient exceeds 9, a problem that the yarn twisting torque is too strong may occur. The cellulosic fiber may be subjected to a pretreatment such as calcining, refining, bleaching, mercerizing, etc., if necessary, and the yarn may be dyed or printed.

The strong twist yarn made of the above-mentioned cellulosic fiber is woven or knitted by an ordinary method to obtain a woven or knitted article made of cellulosic fiber.

In the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers according to the fourth invention of the present invention, first, a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers is relaxed. This relaxation treatment is a treatment in which the woven or knitted fabric using strong twisted yarn is loosened in high-temperature water without tension, thereby expressing the torque of the strongly twisted yarn and causing the woven or knitted fabric to sufficiently contract (to have a spiral shape). Regardless of the direction, the tensionless state in the relaxation process is preferably a tensionless state in any of the weft direction and the meridian direction. In this case, the conditions for the relaxation treatment are not particularly limited, but the temperature is usually 80 to 100 ° C., and the treatment time is usually about 1 to 30 minutes.

By performing the above-described relaxation treatment, the strong twisted yarn is loosened, and the liquid ammonia is applied to the woven or knitted fabric in a state in which the strongly twisted yarn has a spiral shape (a state in which the woven or knitted fabric is sufficiently contracted) in a non-tensioned state or in a slightly tensioned state. Perform processing. In addition,
Here, the slight tension state refers to a tension state that is strong enough to maintain the shape of the contracted woven or knitted fabric.

In this case, it is preferable that the tensionless state or the slight tension state in the liquid ammonia treatment is in the weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. By treating the woven or knitted fabric with no tension in the weft direction or in a slightly tensioned state, it is possible to continuously perform a large amount of treatment and improve productivity. The conditions for the liquid ammonia treatment are the same as in the first to third aspects.

After the above-mentioned relaxing treatment, the liquid ammonia treatment is carried out in a tensionless state or a slightly tensioned state,
Excellent stretchability is imparted to a woven or knitted fabric composed of cellulosic fibers.

Next, the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulosic fibers according to the fifth and sixth inventions of the present invention comprises the steps of: Perform steam treatment or alkali treatment. The conditions of these high-temperature water treatment, steam treatment, or alkali treatment are the same as those in the first to third aspects.

The woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fibers obtained by the production methods of the first to sixth aspects of the present invention has a high elongation and a high recovery after elongation, and has excellent stretchability. Although the method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric composed of the cellulosic fiber according to the seventh invention of the present invention, after performing any one of these production methods selected from the first invention to the sixth invention, Furthermore, by performing resin processing, the resin composition has a high elongation rate, a higher recovery rate after elongation, and has excellent stretchability.

In this case, the resin used for the resin processing can be used without any limitation as long as it is capable of cross-linking cellulosic fibers such as a cellulose-reactive N-methylol compound and imparting the property of maintaining the form. . For example, formaldehyde, glyoxal, aldehydes such as glutaraldehyde, epoxy compounds such as diglycidyl ether, polycarboxylic acids such as tetrabutanecarboxylic acid, fibers such as dimethylol urea, trimethylol melamine, dimethylol ethylene urea, dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea, etc. Element-reactive N-methylol compounds. Among these, glyoxal resins such as dimethylol ethylene urea and dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea are preferred. In addition, the conditions and methods of resin processing can employ the methods and conditions usually performed in resin processing.

The woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fiber thus obtained can be subjected to a final finishing process of a silicone or the like, if necessary, for the purpose of tentering and adjusting the feeling.

The woven or knitted fabric made of the cellulosic fiber obtained by the production method of the present invention has not only the unique texture and feel of the cellulosic fiber, but also excellent stretchability, particularly high elongation and high elongation after elongation. It has a recovery rate and a high market reputation.

[0058]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to the following Examples.

Example 1 A warp and a weft were made of 100% cotton 60-count single yarn (twist coefficient 3.4), and the weaving density was 82.
After performing ordinary refining and bleaching on a woven fabric having a woven structure of plain woven fabric with a weave of 80 pcs / inch × 80 wefts / inch, it was immersed in liquid ammonia at −34 ° C. in the weft direction for 15 seconds without tension, It contracted in the weft direction. Thereafter, glyoxal-based resin processing of the following formulation was performed, and silicone-based finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage ratio and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured by the following methods. Table 1 shows the results.

Glyoxal resin composition LNB20 * 1 10 g / 100 ml Aqueous zinc borofluoride solution * 2 1 g / 100 ml FW * 3 2 g / 100 ml PE-140 * 4 1 g / 100 ml PEG200 * 5 3 g / 100 ml * 1: Riken resin LNB20 (Glyoxal) * 2: Aqueous zinc borofluoride solution (concentration: 45%, manufactured by Morita Chemical) * 3: Sumitex buffer FW (formalin catcher, manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical) * 4: Maycatex PE-140 (polyethylene-based softener, manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry) * 5: PEG200 (polyethylene glycol, manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries) The resin processing agent was prepared by adding water to the above agent to make 100 ml.

[0061] The shrinkage following formula to calculate the shrinkage rate.

(Equation 1) Weft stretch performance Measured according to JIS L 1095 method.

[Comparative Example 1] The same fabric as in Example 1 was refined,
After bleaching, it was shrunk in the weft direction by a slack mercerizing method without tension in the weft direction. Thereafter, glyoxal resin processing (same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the results.

[0063]

[Table 1]

Example 2 Weft-dyed cotton yarn 60 count double yarn (twist coefficient 3.5), density warp 86 yarns / inch, width 138 cm After bleaching, it was immersed in liquid ammonia at −34 ° C. in the weft direction without tension for 15 seconds, and mercerized with caustic soda (20% by weight) at 20 ° C. for 40 seconds,
A neutralization treatment was performed. Next, glyoxal-based resin processing (same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone-based finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the results.

[Comparative Example 2] The same yarn as in Example 2 was used in the yarn-dyed cotton yarn 60-count double yarn (twist coefficient 3.5), density warp 86 /
Dobby cotton 1 woven to inch, 138 cm wide
The 00% woven fabric was treated in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the liquid ammonia treatment was not performed and the mercerizing treatment was performed by a slack mercerizing technique in a tensionless state in the weft direction. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the results.

[Comparative Example 3] The same yarn as in Example 2 was used for yarn-dyed cotton yarn 60 count double yarn (twist coefficient 3.5), density warp 86 /
Dobby cotton 1 woven to inch, 138 cm wide
The 00% fabric was treated in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the liquid ammonia treatment was performed. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 2 shows the results.

[0067]

[Table 2]

From the results shown in Table 2, Comparative Example 2 is inferior in the contraction rate and the recovery rate after elongation as compared with Example 2, and Comparative Example 3 is significantly inferior in both the contraction rate and the elongation rate, and It was recognized that there was no recovery and no stretchability was imparted. On the other hand, in Example 2, the contraction rate, elongation rate, and recovery rate were all high, and especially the recovery rate after elongation was extremely high at 82%. When it was slightly low (75%), the evaluation as a stretch fabric was low, and from this viewpoint, it was confirmed that Example 2 was an excellent stretch fabric.

Example 3 Weaving density was set to 64 yarns / inch × 70 yarns / inch using a 100% cotton strong twist 105-count double yarn (twist coefficient 7.0) as the warp and weft. Was subjected to ordinary refining and bleaching, and then immersed in liquid ammonia at −34 ° C. for 15 seconds without tension in the weft direction to shrink in the weft direction. Thereafter, glyoxal resin processing (same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage ratio and weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured by the same methods as in Example 1. Table 3 shows the results.

[Comparative Example 4] The same woven fabric as in Example 3 was refined.
After bleaching, it was shrunk in the weft direction by a slack mercerizing method without tension in the weft direction. Thereafter, glyoxal resin processing (same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone finishing processing was performed. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 3 shows the results.

[0071]

[Table 3]

[Example 4] Warp cotton spinning strong twisted and twisted 50th single yarn (twist coefficient 7.5), density warp 69 / inch / weft 70 /
100 inch cotton with a flat texture woven to 160 inch width
% Fabric was subjected to a relaxing treatment for 5 minutes in high-temperature water at 90 ° C., and then subjected to ordinary refining and bleaching. Then -34 ° C
Was immersed in liquid ammonia for 15 seconds with no tension in the weft direction, and subjected to a mercerizing treatment with caustic soda at 20 ° C. (20% by weight) for 40 seconds to perform a neutralization treatment. Next, glyoxal-based resin processing (the same as in Example 1) was performed, and silicone-based finishing processing was performed. Shrinkage of the obtained fabric,
Weft stretch performance was measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 4 shows the results.

[Comparative Example 5] The same process as in Example 4 was carried out to obtain a cotton spun strong twisted and twisted 50th single yarn (coefficient of twist 7.5), density warp 69 / inch / weft 70 / inch, width 160 cm. The same treatment as in Example 4 was carried out except that a 100% cotton woven fabric of a flat structure woven according to the standard was subjected to a slack mercerizing method without tension treatment in the weft direction without performing a relaxation treatment and a liquid ammonia treatment, and a mercenary treatment. gave. The shrinkage and the weft stretch performance of the obtained woven fabric were measured in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 4 shows the results.

[0074]

[Table 4] From the results in Table 4, the shrinkage rate of Example 4 was lower than that of Comparative Example 5,
Both the elongation rate and the recovery rate were high, and it was confirmed that they had excellent stretchability.

[0075]

According to the present invention, excellent stretchability can be imparted to a woven or knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers while maintaining the unique feel and feel of the cellulosic fibers.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D06M 101: 06 (72) Inventor Hiroyuki Uchiyama 2-4-2 Kitakuhoji-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka Nisshinbo Industries Osaka Branch Co., Ltd. (72) Inventor Masayoshi Oba 45 characters in Miai-cho, Okazaki-shi, Aichi F-term in Nisshinbo Industries, Ltd. Miai Factory (Reference) 4L002 AA02 AB01 AB03 AC01 DA01 DA03 DA05 EA06 4L031 AA02 AB01 AB24 AB32 AB33 BA16 CA01 CA06 CA07 DA00 DA01 4L048 AA08 AB01 AB14 BA01 BA02 CA04 CA15 EB05

Claims (9)

[Claims] 1. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulose fibers, wherein a woven or knitted fabric comprising cellulose fibers which contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state is subjected to liquid ammonia treatment in a tensionless state. Method. 2. Cellulose characterized in that a woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulose-based fiber which contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state is subjected to liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state, followed by high temperature water treatment or steam treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising a base fiber. 3. A woven or knitted fabric made of a cellulose-based fiber that contracts by 20% or more by liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state, comprising a liquid ammonia treatment in a tension-free state, followed by an alkali treatment. A method for manufacturing a stretch woven or knitted fabric. 4. The method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the tensionless state in the liquid ammonia treatment is in a weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. 5. A stretch made of cellulosic fibers, characterized in that a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers is subjected to a relaxation treatment and then subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state or a slightly tensioned state. Manufacturing method of woven or knitted fabric. 6. A woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber, followed by a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned or slightly tensioned state, followed by a high-temperature water treatment or a steam treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising a cellulosic fiber. 7. A cellulose characterized in that a woven or knitted fabric obtained by weaving or knitting a strong twisted yarn made of a cellulosic fiber is subjected to a relaxation treatment, then subjected to a liquid ammonia treatment in a non-tensioned state or a slightly tensioned state, and then to an alkali treatment. A method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric comprising a base fiber. 8. The method for producing a stretch woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein the tensionless state or slight tensioned state in the liquid ammonia treatment is in a weft direction with respect to the woven or knitted fabric. 9. A method for producing a stretch woven / knitted fabric made of cellulosic fibers, wherein the method according to claim 1 is performed, followed by resin processing.