JPH0114321B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for attaching the collar of Japanese clothes that can be worn beautifully without wrinkles or lines on the front or back of the shoulders.

[Conventional technology]

Generally, the collar of Japanese clothes is curved from the center of the back to the left and right based on the measurement around the neck or the base of the neck, and then a collar is added to the neckline that flows from the neck to the upper front and lower front. For example, there is a conventional method disclosed in Utility Model Publication No. 55-20724.
In other words, as shown in FIG.
Cut parallel to the edging seam line 3 and so that the tip reaches the shoulder mountain line 1, and add the edging seam allowance d.
It is configured so that the width of is constant.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

According to this invention, since the width of the seam allowance d is constant, when a collar is added, the seam allowance d is inevitably pulled and the seam allowance does not fit into the collar, resulting in wrinkles in the finished collar and a tight collar. Attachment becomes impossible. Therefore, in order to prevent this, it is necessary to make cuts g from the collar shoulder bleed line 2 to the collar sewing line 3 at multiple locations.
If you do this, there is a risk that the fabric will become frayed. It is especially unsuitable when sewing by hand.
Furthermore, when a flat collar cloth is sewn together and worn because the sewing line 3 and the cutting line 2 are separated from each other, there is a drawback that wrinkles tend to occur at the collar around the shoulders and the garment pattern cannot be removed neatly. Moreover, since the rounded shoulder opening cut line 2 extends up to the shoulder peak line 1, the shoulder area of the collar tends to stretch, making it difficult to keep the collar loose and, conversely, making the collar difficult to attach.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention aims to solve all of these problems and provide a novel collar-fitting dimension for Japanese clothing that allows for a sharp collar.

[Means for solving problems]

In order to achieve such an object, the present invention provides an opening to a required width from the line of the shoulder crest of the body area, a collar shoulder opening parallel to the shoulder crest line at the edge of the opening, and a collar shoulder opening parallel to the shoulder crest line of the body area. The back stitch position A is reached from the orthogonal point where an extension line parallel to the line of the shoulder crest starting from the back stitch position A intersects with an extension line drawn perpendicular to the extension line starting from the tip position E of the shoulder crest. Connect position B near the orthogonal point that divides the length into thirds and position C that bisects the width of the rectangle with a diagonal line, and trisect the straight line that connects the position that bisects the diagonal line and the orthogonal point. a position D near the diagonal line is provided, and the tip of the collar shoulder is curved from position B through position D to position C;
From position X of the edge of the back seam allowance to each of the above positions A, B,
Cut along D and C, then tie the outer position E', which is slightly looser than the above position E, and tie it at that position.
A basic line is established by connecting E' and the outer position F' which has a curved edge from the tip F of the tip of the curved line, and a position that divides the distance from position A to the above-mentioned orthogonal point into three equal parts.
At A', B, position D, and position C, and outside the basic line, the same width is applied from positions A and A', the width becomes narrower from positions B, D, and C, and the required width is applied from positions G and H. This method involves providing marks for each collar and sewing the collar along each of the marks for attaching the collar.

[Effect]

At the same time as widening the width of the stitching, the width of the seam allowance around the shoulders of the collar is gradually narrowed, and the edge of the shoulder opening of the collar is given a curve, and the tip is moved from the tip of the shoulder crest to the line of the shoulder crest starting from the back seam position. By forming the collar on an extension line drawn perpendicularly to a parallel extension line to a position that bisects the collar, wrinkles are almost eliminated, the collar is prevented from stretching around the shoulders, and the collar is easily attached.
Moreover, the required width is added to the outside of the basic line that connects the specified position on the outside of the collar shoulder, the outside position that is slightly looser than the tip of the shoulder crest, and the outside position that is slightly looser than the tip of the shoulder crest. By providing a collar attachment mark, a slim and sharp collar can be attached to suit the body shape of the person.

[Example] An example of the present invention will be described below in detail based on the drawings.

As shown in FIG. 1, a shoulder crest 2 is provided on a straight line (indicated by a dotted line) perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the body 1, and an overhang 3 is provided at a width of 2.5 cm to 4 cm from the shoulder crest 2. A collar shoulder opening 4 is provided on the edge of the collar parallel to the shoulder peak 2. 5 is the back seam allowance. Then, an extension line 6 parallel to the line of the shoulder ridge 2 starting from the back stitching position A of the collar shoulder opening 4, and an extension line 6' drawn perpendicular to the extension line 6 starting from the tip position E of the shoulder ridge 2. A position B near the orthogonal point 7 divides the length from the orthogonal point 7 to the back stitching position A into three equal parts.
A diagonal line 8 connects the position C that bisects the width of the carryover 3. Further, a position D near the diagonal line 8 that divides the straight line 9 connecting the diagonal line 8 into two halves and the orthogonal point 7 into three parts is provided, and the tip of the collar shoulder opening 4 is moved from the position B to the position D. It passes through D and is curved to position C. Furthermore, tie a position X that reaches the edge of the back seam allowance 5 from the position A. In addition, the position closer to position A that divides the distance from position A to orthogonal point 7 into three equal parts is
Let it be A′.

The width of the knit 3 and the curved shape of the collar and shoulder opening 4 will depend on the body shape of the wearer. For example, a person with a stooped back should add a little more knit 3 to about 4 cm, and a person with a balky neck should add a little more knit 3 and wear it. Adjust the collar shoulder width 4 to (neck circumference x 1/4) cm, and if you have sensitive shoulders, adjust the collar shoulder width 4 to (neck circumference x 1/4 + 0.5) cm. do.

Next, the collar attachment line will be explained. First, the position A,
A collar mark 10a, 10a' is provided 1.5 cm outward from A', a collar mark 10b is provided 1 cm outward from position B, a collar mark 10c is provided 0.3 cm outward from position C,
A collar attachment mark 10d is provided 0.5 cm outside position D, and a collar attachment mark 10e is provided at a position E' that is approximately 0.5 to 0.8 cm outside position E depending on the thickness of the neck. Furthermore, connect the position F' 0.2 cm outside the tip F provided at the tip of the undercut 11 of the body part 1 and the position E' with a basic line 12, and for those with an anchored shoulder, the position is a position that divides the basic line 12 into four. Add a curve that extends outward by about 1 cm at position G near E', and for people with low chests, add a curve that extends about 0.8 cm outward at position H, which divides basic line 12 into thirds, near E', and then For a person with a normal body type, add a curve that extends 0.5 cm outward at the above position H.
Collar marks 10g, 10h, and 10i are provided, respectively.

The body part 1, which has been measured in this way, has a collar and shoulder width of 4.
Cut at the curved part from position 1a and 1a are sewn together, and the collar 14 is sewn with curves where necessary, matching the collar attachment marks 10a to 10i provided on the body area 1.
In order to add slack in step 4, the above-mentioned positions A to A' should be flattened, and the positions A' to E' should be approximately equally spaced by 0.5 cm for thin fabrics and 0.8 cm for thick fabrics. However, at position C, it is essential to adjust to 0.3 cm.
Then, add 0.2 cm at positions E′ to F′.

In addition, the front body 1b has a neck 1 as shown in Figure 3.
Sew 5.

In the collar attachment method of the present invention, by widening the width of the collar, it is possible to draw a curve with depth at the edge of the collar. The size can be changed depending on the thickness of the wearer's neck and body shape, and it can always be worn in a U-shape that matches the roundness of the wearer's neck.

In addition, the width of the seam allowance around the shoulders of the collar is gradually narrowed, and the notch on the curve at the tip of the shoulder opening 4 of the collar is only half of the width of the shoulder opening 3, and ends just before the shoulder thickness, so the seam allowance around the shoulders of the collar is made narrower. The seam allowance will not get tangled, and since there is little bias in the seam allowance, it won't stretch easily and you can easily adjust the looseness when attaching the collar. What's more, when changing the front and back for re-tailoring, you can easily re-tailor the front and back by simply changing the folds while leaving the shoulder peaks as they are. In addition, since the cloth surrounded by the cutout 13 is not cut off, there is no problem in washing, and the tip of the three-necked cloth does not extend all the way to the chest, making the collar easy to clean. can be attached.

Further, collar attachment marks 10g to 10i are provided outside appropriate positions of the basic line 12 connecting position E' on the shoulder mountain 2 line and position F' provided on the downhill 11, and each of the collar attachment marks 10g to
Since the collar 14 is sewn with a curve passing through 10i, the collar can be attached neatly and neatly without wrinkles on the chest.

The method of the present invention can also be applied to, for example, collars with thin collars, drumstick collars, and wide collars, kimonos such as single kimonos, and collars on long undergarments.

〔Effect of the invention〕

As described above, in the collar attachment method of the present invention,
The width of the embroidery provided at the collar and shoulders of the body fabric is widened, and the width of the seam allowance around the collar and shoulders is gradually narrowed, and the collar and shoulder openings are curved at the tip so that only half of the width of the embroidery is cut. The collar is not angular and is attached in a rounded U-shape, and there are no wrinkles or lines on the front or back of the shoulders, and the collar can be worn easily. Moreover, it can be easily remade. Furthermore, since the collar is sewn with a curve from the top of the shoulder to the collar, it blends well with the body shape, has no wrinkles on the chest, and is sewn with a nice, neat collar, making it long. It has beneficial effects such as being able to maintain its beautiful shape at all times and not easily coming off even when worn for hours.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings relate to embodiments of the present invention, and FIG. 1 is a plan view of the body area, FIG. 2 is a plan view of the collar, FIG. 3 is a plan view showing the relationship between the back body area and the front body area, and FIG. 4 is a plan view of the collar area. FIG. 5 is a front perspective view showing a state in which the Japanese clothing according to the present invention is worn, FIG. 5 is a rear perspective view of the same as above, and FIG. 6 is an enlarged plan view of the main part of a conventional Japanese clothing fabric with shoulder openings. 1...body area, 2...shoulder pile, 3...knot,
4... Collar shoulder opening, 6, 6'... Extension line, 7... Orthogonal point, 8... Diagonal line, 9... Straight line, 10a-10
i... Collar mark, 11... Downhill, 12... Basic line, 14... Collar, A, B, C, D, E, E', F,
F'...Position.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Make a recess to the required width from the shoulder line of the bodice area, create a collar and shoulder opening parallel to the shoulder line at the edge of the upper edge, and start from the back stitch position A of the collar and shoulder area. An extension line parallel to the line of the shoulder crest and the tip position E of the shoulder crest
A position B near the orthogonal point that divides the length from the orthogonal point where it intersects with the extension line drawn perpendicularly to the extension line to the back stitching position A into thirds, and a position C that bisects the width of the folded line. are connected by a diagonal line, and a position D near the diagonal line that divides the straight line connecting the position bisecting the diagonal line and the orthogonal point into thirds is provided, and the tip of the collar shoulder is passed from position B to position D. Curve it to position C, cut from the edge of the back seam allowance at position , a basic line is established by connecting the position E' and the outer position F', which has a curved edge from the tip F of the tip of the downward slope, and a position that divides the distance from the position A to the orthogonal point into thirds. A', B, position D, position C, and the same width from positions A and A' outside the basic line, position B,
A method for attaching a collar to Japanese clothing, characterized in that collar attachment marks of successively narrower widths are provided from positions D and C, and collar attachment marks of a required width are provided from positions G and H, and the collar is sewn along each of the collar attachment marks. .