JPH0127169B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

<Industrial Field of Application> The present invention relates to a textured fabric with a warm texture, which is made by twisting bundled spun yarns that have fine, sharp textures and less unevenness. <Relationship with Prior Art> Conventionally, textured fabrics have been made of multifilament yarns with strong twists. However, although textured fabrics made using highly twisted multifilament yarns exhibit sharp, fine grains and few grain spots, they have the fatal drawback of lacking a warm texture. Ta. Therefore, attempts have been made to produce grained fabrics by imparting strong twist to ring-spun yarns. However, although the textured fabric obtained by this attempt has a warm texture, the yarn lacks flexibility because the yarn is originally twisted, and it does not have the strong twist of filament yarn. Because it is difficult to apply, it has the disadvantage of lacking fine, sharp grain. Therefore, highly twisted ring-spun yarns have never been used for jerseys, and have been used at most as wefts for willows. In addition, in recent years, various methods for producing so-called bound spun yarns using fluid false twisting nozzles have been studied, but there is no method for producing textured fabrics using bound spun yarns produced by these methods. It has been proposed (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 52-88662). However, although the fabric using the bound spun yarn obtained by this method had a warm texture and few grain spots, it lacked sharp and fine grains. <Objective of the Invention> The purpose of the present invention is to eliminate the drawbacks of the conventional grained fabrics, and to provide a textile that has a warm feel, has sharp fine grains, and has less grain spots. do. <Configuration of the Invention> The present invention has the following configuration to achieve the above object. That is, the present invention provides a spun yarn consisting of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and binding fibers wound around the core fiber bundle, with a twist coefficient in the same direction as the winding direction of the binding fibers. 4.5~
The textured fabric is characterized in that twisted yarns having a twist of 10.0 are used for either the warp or the weft, or for both the warp and the weft to form the textured fabric. The present invention will be explained in detail below. First, the bound spun yarn used in the present invention consists of a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle and bound fibers wound around the core fiber bundle. The reason why bound spun yarn is used here is to create a warm texture by using the evenness of the filament to reduce unevenness, and also because of the characteristics of the fiber bundle with a substantially non-twisted core. This is to make it easier to twist the yarn and create a fine grain. The staple fibers constituting such a bound spun yarn may have either equal length or unequal length. The average fiber length of the staple fibers is preferably 25 to 100 mm, more preferably 30 mm.
~80mm. However, if it exceeds 100 mm, it will approach the filament and will lack warmth, while if it is less than 25 mm, the symmetry of the filament will decrease, leading to the occurrence of wrinkled spots. Further, the fineness (denier) of the staple fibers also greatly affects the flexibility of the yarn, which in turn greatly affects the uniformity of the untwisting force. Therefore, the fineness (denier)
is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 2.0 denier, more preferably 0.3 to 1.0 denier. If it exceeds 2.0 denier, the flexibility of the yarn decreases, making it difficult to produce sharp grains, and if it becomes less than 0.1 denier, the untwisting force becomes uneven, making it difficult to produce fine grains. Further, the thickness of the bundled spun yarn is preferably 16 to 200 ^1S in English cotton count, more preferably 30 to 1S.
80 ^1S . If it exceeds 200 ^1S , fine grains can be obtained, but the number of constituent fibers decreases and the untwisting force decreases, making it difficult to produce sharp grains, and if it becomes less than 16 ^1S , it becomes difficult to twist and produce fine grains. The material of the staple fiber may be any natural fiber such as cotton fiber or wool fiber, or synthetic fiber such as polyester fiber, but polyester fiber is preferable. Next, the twist coefficient is 4.5 for the bound spun yarn mentioned so far.
~10.0 twist must be applied in the same direction as the wrapping direction of the binding fibers. The twist coefficient K here
The number of twists (t/in) is T, and the English cotton count (1S) is N.
It is expressed as T=K√. Here, the reason why a predetermined twist is applied in the same direction as the winding direction of the bundled fibers is to increase the untwisting force. When the twist coefficient is less than 4.5, the untwisting force becomes poor and sharp, fine grains are difficult to form. Furthermore, if the twist coefficient exceeds 10.0, the twistability will deteriorate and grain spots will easily occur. From this point of view, the twist coefficient is 4.5 to 10.0, preferably 5.0 to 10.0, and more preferably 6.5 to 8.0. Furthermore, the twisted yarns of such bound spun yarns are used for either the warp or the weft, or for both the warp and the weft to form a textured fabric. The reason why it is used for at least one of the warp and weft is to create grain. The arrangement of the twisted yarns includes one or more S direction twisted yarns and one or more Z direction twisted yarns alternately, or one or more S direction twisted yarns only (single twist),
Alternatively, one or more yarns twisted only in the Z direction (single twist) are used. Here, the method for manufacturing the grained fabric of the present invention will be explained. First, a sliver is produced using raw staple fibers cut to equal lengths, or a sliver made of staple fibers cut to unequal lengths is produced by cutting tow or multifilament yarn. The sliver is then wound such that the bound fibers are wrapped around a substantially untwisted core fiber bundle by the action of a swirling fluid stream, for example using a single fluid false twisting nozzle; , the action of two oppositely oriented swirling fluid streams causes the bound fibers to wrap around the substantially untwisted core fiber bundle as described above. Of course, some filaments may be included in addition to the above-mentioned staple fibers as long as they do not impede the effects of the present invention, but 100% staple fibers are preferred. Next, the bundled spun yarn produced in this manner is twisted in the same direction as the wrapping direction of the bundled fibers with a twist coefficient of 4.5 to 10.0 to produce a twisted yarn. Further, the twisted yarn is preferably subjected to moist heat setting at 80 to 105°C for 15 to 40 minutes, more preferably 85 to 95°C for 15 to 40 minutes. Next, a fabric is woven using the thus heat-treated twisted yarns as either the warp or the weft, or as both the warp and the weft. Of course, a bundled spun yarn in which the binding fibers are wound in the Z direction or the S direction is manufactured to produce a twisted yarn in the Z direction or the S direction. If necessary, one or more such additional twist yarns may be alternately twisted in S and Z directions, or only yarns twisted in the Z direction or S
Weaving is carried out using only twisted yarns in the same direction as the warp and/or weft. Thereafter, the woven fabric is embossed using a rotary washer, for example, in the order of relaxing → liquid volume (liquid volume ratio is 5 to 25%, preferably 10 to 20%) → dyeing, thereby obtaining a embossed woven fabric. . <Effects of the Invention> According to the present invention, a grained fabric with a warm texture and sharp fine grains can be obtained, and this grained fabric has a remarkable effect of having less grain spots. be done. Example 1 A bundled spun yarn 60 ^1S consisting of polyester multifilament yarn (75d/36f) for the warp and staple fibers of polyester fiber cut at equal length of 0.7d x 38mm for the weft (using a spinning machine with one false twist nozzle) there was)
Using an Italian twister, 2000 t/m (50.8 t/in) of additional twist (twisting coefficient 7.75) in the Z direction in the same direction as the wrapping direction of the binding fibers was added, and the yarn was offset at 90°C for 40 minutes. Longitudinal density: 163 lines/in, latitudinal density: 80
A plain woven fabric was woven with a book/in. The plain woven fabric was relaxed with a rotary washer, subjected to a 15% weight reduction process, and finished with circular dyeing. The woven fabric was a willow woven fabric with fine sharp grains, warmth, and good drapability. Example 2 A bundled spun yarn 30 ^1S consisting of polyester multifilament yarn (50d/36f) for the warp and staple fibers of polyester fibers cut into equal lengths of 0.7d x 38mm for the weft (the winding direction of the bundled fibers is the S direction, Z
direction) in the same direction as the winding direction using an Italian twisting machine.
Using 1800t/m (45.72t/in) of additional twist (twist coefficient 8.34) and offset at 90°C for 40 minutes, the warp density was 210 yarns/in and the weft density was 75 yarns using S direction additional twist yarn and Z direction additional twist yarn. /in plain woven fabric was woven. At this time, six additionally twisted yarns in the S direction and six additionally twisted yarns in the Z direction were alternately inserted as weft yarns. When processed in the same process as the dyeing process of Example 1, a fine grained crepe with a finely sharp grained appearance and a soft and warm texture was obtained. Example 3 Both the warp and the weft were spun bound yarns made of staple fibers of polyester fibers with unequal length cuts of 0.7d x 110 mm (the winding directions of the bound fibers were the S direction and the Z direction).
Direction) 80 ^1S was twisted at 2300t/m (58.42t/in) in the same direction as the bundled fibers using an Italian twisting machine at 85℃
Using the additionally twisted yarn in the S direction and the additionally twisted yarn in the Z direction, which were casted in 40 minutes, a plain fabric with a warp density of 95 threads/in and a weft density of 80 threads/in was woven alternately with two S and Z threads, and the same processing as in Example 1 was carried out. When dyed in the process, a completely new spunjyosette fabric with a warm, natural appearance and a finely sharp grained appearance was obtained. Example 4 Slivers consisting of staple fibers with various filament fineness (denier) were produced to produce 60 ^1S bound spun yarns on a binding spinning machine with one fluid false twist nozzle. Next, the number of twists is 2000t/ with a twist coefficient of 7.75.
Polyester multifilament yarn (75d/36f) was made by additionally twisting 50.8t/in) in the Z direction, which is the same direction as the bundled fibers, and casting it at 90°C for 40 minutes, using the additionally twisted yarn in the Z direction as the weft. Example 1 using for the warp
A plain woven fabric was woven with the same structure and density as that of the original, and the grain was created through the same processing process to examine the appearance of the grain. The results were as shown in the table. In the table, ○ indicates a sharp and fine grain, × indicates a coarse grain, and △ indicates a slightly sharp grain. Also, ▲ indicates that there are many grain spots. ◎ indicates that the grain is particularly sharp and finely grained, and there are few grain spots.

【table】

[Table] As is clear from this table, the grained fabric that satisfies the requirements of the present invention exhibits sharp and fine grains,
In addition, there were few grain spots, but those that did not satisfy the requirements of the present invention had many grain spots and were not sharp.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A twisted spun yarn consisting of a substantially non-twisted core fiber bundle and bound fibers wound around the core fiber bundle is twisted in the same direction as the winding direction of the bound fibers.
A textured fabric characterized in that twisted yarns having a twist of 4.5 to 10.0 are used for either the warp or the weft, or for both the warp and the weft to form a textured fabric.