JPH0137512B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

(Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material. More specifically, a polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn having a swirling portion formed by partially and intermittently existing thick fiber portions in the constituent single fibers swirling around the outer periphery of the multifilament yarn. The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric that exhibits characteristic texture and appearance effects based on the yarn structure. As mentioned above, the yarn used in the present invention has thick and thin fibers when viewed as a single constituent fiber, and also has thick and thin when viewed as a whole made up of such constituent fibers. It is a long fiber thick and thin thread. The knitted fabric obtained by the present invention has a spun-like texture rich in "sharpness" and "bulkness", as well as "repellency", "drapeability", "softness", and a unique mild luster. In addition, when dyed, it is possible to create a heathered or marbled color effect due to the difference in dyeing ability between the thick and thin fibers in the constituent fibers mentioned above, which is a high value-added feature not seen in the past. It is something that (Prior art) Conventionally, there are yarns of this type consisting of constituent fibers that are thick and thin in the fiber axis direction, as well as woven and knitted fabrics using such yarns. At present, there are no polyester long fiber thick and thin yarns having such sections, and no woven or knitted fabrics using such yarns. The reason for this seems to be that it was generally thought that the presence of swirling fibers would impair the thickening effect of the constituent fibers of Setsuku and the marbling effect and heathered effect corresponding to the thickening and thinning. That is,
With this type of yarn, the main focus has been on achieving the desired effect based on the direct appearance or surface morphology of the yarn, and the aim is to swirl the fibers around the yarn. Thoughts are usually absent. Therefore, especially in the field of woven and knitted fabrics, where dyeing produces a heathered or marbled color effect due to the difference in dyeing ability between thick and thin parts,
Those with swirl fibers were not used. Furthermore, although the constituent fibers have thick and thin sections in the fiber axis direction, the phase of the thick and thin sections is made random, so that the thick and weak portions are visually created as yarns with uniform thickness. Yarns that are then cut and fluffed to achieve almost the same effect as staple fiber bundles (spun yarns) (e.g.,
No. 31144), of course, there was no idea of arranging swirling fibers around the yarn that would interfere with fluffing and further impair the effect of the fluff. On the other hand, although the constituent fibers have thick and thin fibers in the fiber axis direction, in particular, the number of thick and thin fibers present is large and the pitch of their presence is finely randomized, so that the yarn is visually even in thickness. Even with yarns that aim for spun touch or depth of color, the aim is to obtain the desired effect based on the subtle color depth, appearance, and surface form of the yarn. Normally, there was no idea of intentionally swirling the fibers around the yarn. On the other hand, within the range of yarns of various conventional techniques, two or more types of yarns are used, for example, in a design twisting machine, a combination twisting machine, a false twisting machine, etc. By supplying threads and setting a feed difference between the threads, it is possible to create threads with partially or intermittently different thicknesses. A heathered yarn or a marbled yarn can be produced by supplying two or more types of dyed yarns and using similar means and methods. however,
These methods increase manufacturing costs and are highly restrictive in terms of manufacturing equipment, and the method of supplying two or more types of yarn dyed in different colors in advance requires a wide range of color combinations, making production complicated. It involves a large loss of pods. In addition, when a combination of yarns with different dyeability is used, differences in shrinkage rate and stress relaxation often occur, resulting in poor process passability and uneven texture in woven and knitted fabrics. It is often accompanied by defects in texture, texture, and quality. On the other hand, even with synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, by partially and intermittently changing the draw ratio,
It is possible to obtain thickness changes and dyeing differences in the fiber axis direction. However, the yarn obtained by this method generally has extremely low strength and poor abrasion resistance in thick (deeply dyed) portions that are insufficiently drawn, and often fails to meet practical performance. Currently, among the conventional yarns as described above, no yarns have been found that have partial or intermittently turning portions. If you are forced to make such a thread using these threads,
For example, the swirling yarn can be created by using polyurethane elastic yarn as the core yarn and winding other yarns around the sheath yarn, but alternatively, the swirling yarn can be created by plying and twisting yarns using yarns with different shrinkage rates. However, in the thus obtained swirled yarn, the swirling portion is present all over the entire yarn, and when looking at the yarn as a whole, the swirling portion is partially or intermittently present. It does not mean that it actually exists. (Problems to be Solved by the Invention) In view of the above-mentioned points, the object of the present invention is to provide a high value-added polyester long fiber having partial and intermittently swirling parts, which has not been seen in the prior art. The object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a polyester filament woven or knitted fabric, which has not been seen before, by using thick and thin threads and effectively utilizing the characteristic structure of this thread in the woven or knitted fabric. (Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention that achieves the above object consists of the following configuration. That is, the method of the present invention is applicable to long fibers in which the single fibers constituting the yarn are long fibers that have a thickness change in the fiber axis direction, and the dyeing ability of the thick fiber portion and the thin fiber portion are different, and Manufactured using at least a twisted polyester multifilament yarn having thick and thin changes in the yarn length direction, in which the thick single fiber portion is mainly present in a swirl around the outer periphery of the yarn. This is a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material, which comprises knitting and weaving, and then subjecting the woven or knitted material to alkali weight loss treatment. (Function) The present invention will be explained in detail below. In the present invention, the polyester constituting the polyester long fiber thick and thin threads is made of terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative (diester of alcohol having 1 to 4 carbon atoms) and ethylene glycol, or terephthalic acid or its lower alkyl derivative Polyester building blocks obtained from an alkyl derivative and ethylene glycol and at least one other component, or from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate or a low polymer thereof, or from bis-2-hydroxyethyl terephthalate and at least one other component at least 70% of
is composed of polyethylene terephthalate. In the above-mentioned thick and thin yarn used in the present invention, the turning portion is caused by thick fiber portions that are partially and intermittently present in the constituent single fibers, so even when looking at the yarn as a whole, The turning portion exists partially and intermittently in the yarn. Polyester long fiber thick and thin yarns having such swirling parts are obtained by further twisting thick and thin yarns obtained under special spinning and drawing conditions. Rate is 15~70×
^10-3 , a method of drawing a highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn by mechanically changing the drawing ratio, and other special yarns that partially have incompletely drawn parts under special drawing conditions. It can be produced by a method such as that of In the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn before twisting obtained by the above method, the constituent fibers have a diameter change in the fiber axis direction, and the thick and thin portions have a difference in dyeing ability. However, when dyed, the thicker parts absorb the dye quickly and are dyed deeply, while the thinner parts absorb the dye slowly and are dyed light, resulting in a difference in dyeing. Furthermore, it is important to note that such polyester long fiber thick and thin yarns are produced by important factors such as spinning speed, oil agent and its amount of adhesion, drawing ratio, drawing pin and its temperature, degree of winding, etc. The thick and thin polyester long fibers obtained through a combination of appropriate conditions are twisted, so that the partially and intermittently thick fibers present in the constituent fibers are separated from other thin fibers. Unlike other parts, the twisted yarn exhibits a special behavior of turning around the outer periphery, and exhibits deformation that has not been seen before. This deformation mechanism is thought to be due to the difference in torsional rigidity between the thick fiber portion and the thin fiber portion, and the details will be described later. The number of twists is not particularly limited and may be determined depending on the desired characteristics of the woven or knitted fabric.For example, the number of twists can be roughly classified as follows: / US) can be divided into three groups: (2) medium twist of 500 to 800 T/m, (3) hard twist of 1000 T/m or more, but it is difficult to decide which of these to use. It may be determined as appropriate depending on the intended use of the final woven or knitted product and desired characteristics such as desired texture, gloss, and crispness. That is, for example, in crepe fabrics such as jersey crepe for spring/summer women's clothing (dresses, blouses, scarves, skirts, dresses, formal wear, etc.) and dechin crepe (blouses, furoshiki, Japanese clothing linings, etc.), (3) For example, for 75 denier, 1800 ~
2400T/m, 50 denier is preferably about 2200 to 2800T/m. For textiles such as voile and shear, which are mainly used for women's clothing, it is best to use (2) medium twist of about 800 to 1000 T/m, which is suitable for lining, umbrella fabric, Japanese clothing lining,
Fabrics such as taffeta and habutae used for cold-weather clothing are preferably those with a soft twist of 200 to 300 T/m or less as described in (1). In addition, when using the above-mentioned yarn in a fabric, it can be used for one of the warp and weft, or for both the warp and weft. In particular, the yarn, as described above,
Since there is a difference in diameter and a difference in dyeing ability in the fiber axis direction, it is possible to give a heathered effect or marbling effect to the product. In addition, at the same time, the void effect as described later can be obtained due to the swirling parts that exist partially and intermittently. It is better to focus on the effects. In other words, it is better to mainly consider whether the heathering and marbling effects are to be realized in the warp direction, the weft direction, or both the warp and weft directions. Furthermore, as another method of use, the above-mentioned polyester long fiber thick and thin threads and other threads,
There are usage methods such as alternating use, intertwisting, combined twisting, and composite use (core-sheath composite, side-by-side composite, etc.).
Here, other yarns include, for example, regular polyester long fiber yarn, nylon long fiber yarn, acrylic long fiber yarn, or polyester, acrylic,
These include short fiber yarns (spun yarns) such as cotton and wool, and blended yarns thereof. By alternately using several to dozens of these yarns and the above-mentioned thick and thin yarns, or by using intertwisted, plied, or compositely processed yarns, you can create a multi-purpose yarn with a natural and rustic feel. It is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with excellent drapability and repellency due to the combination of color effect, bulkiness, unique texture, and difference in shrinkage rate. The woven or knitted fabric thus obtained is further subjected to alkali weight loss processing. Due to this alkali weight loss processing, the thick fiber portion has a lower orientation and exhibits faster weight loss processing properties than the thin fiber portion.
As a result, the "void" effect in the woven or knitted fabric based on the use of the above-mentioned thick and thin threads, which will be described later, is further demonstrated, creating a characteristic feature that is not seen in conventional fabrics with excellent softness and drapability. can get things.
That is, according to the present invention, the void effect due to the yarn structure itself having swirling portions is combined with the weight reduction effect due to alkali processing, resulting in an even better hand feel. The weight loss rate may be appropriately selected within the range of several percent to several tens of percent depending on the desired fabric properties. According to the present invention, for the above-mentioned reasons, a relatively high hand improvement effect can be ultimately obtained even with a small weight loss rate. Next, the present invention will be specifically explained using the drawings. FIG. 1 is a model side view of an example of a polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn before twisting to obtain the yarn used in the present invention. In the same figure, a is a fully stretched part, and b
is the incompletely stretched part. When this yarn is dyed, the a part is light dyed and the b part is dark dyed.
As for the entire thread, a heathered or marbled color effect can be obtained. On the other hand, in addition to heather and marbled tones, a
If you want to dye the entire fabric in a plain color without making the parts a and b different colors, by selecting the dye and dyeing conditions, you can dye almost the entire yarn in parts a and b with almost no difference in dyeing. It is also possible to dye uniformly. Although a and b are randomly distributed, their birefringence is as shown in Table 1.

[Table] If the birefringence of the thick part is around 25×10 ^-3 , it will have a good shading effect, and it will not be brittle like the thick part b, and the dyeing and abrasion fastness will be sufficient, making it suitable for practical use. I can endure it. However, when the birefringence of the b part is about 15×10 ^-3 or less, although the contrast effect of the thick part is good, the wear resistance of the thick part is insufficient and it breaks easily, making it impractical. I can't stand it.
Also, the dyeing and rubbing fastness properties are poor. On the other hand, the thick-to-thin ratio B/A of the diameters of the thick portion B and the thin portion A of the entire multifilament yarn in the state shown in FIG. 1 is preferably in the range of about 1.2 to 1.8. If the thick-to-thin ratio B/A is 1.2 or less, when the fabric is made into a woven or knitted fabric, the difference between the thick part and the thin part cannot be clearly realized, and the effect of the difference in shade becomes extremely small. On the other hand, if the thick-to-fine ratio B/A is 1.8 or more, the yarn will be brittle and break easily, resulting in poor practical performance, and the dyeing and abrasion fastness will also be poor, which is not preferable. More specifically, in the present invention, as described above, twisting is applied to create a swirling part, but by twisting, the bundle of the yarn as a whole improves, and the thick-to-thin ratio B/A tends to become slightly smaller. To have
It is preferable that the yarn has a slightly larger thickness ratio B/A. b contained in the entire multifilament yarn
The length ratio is preferably in the range of 20% to 40% in terms of length ratio, taking into consideration practical performance such as heathering due to difference in density, marbling effect, abrasion resistance, frequency of swirling parts, etc. FIG. 2 shows a cross section of the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn shown in FIG. 1. Note that A, B, a, and b in FIGS. 2 to 14 all indicate the same parts as in FIG. 1. That is, A indicates the thin part of the multifilament yarn, B indicates the thick part of the multifilament yarn, and a and b
denotes individual fiber portions of the yarn; a is light dyed in the fully drawn area, and b is dark dyed in the incompletely drawn area. FIG. 3 is a side view of the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn shown in FIG. 1 twisted at 500 T/m, and FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view thereof. Incompletely stretched portion b that exists partially and intermittently
In this case, the twist angle is larger than that in the fully stretched part a, and the part b turns around the part a, and at the same time, it is slightly separated from the part a, making it possible to obtain a novel yarn that has never existed before. 5 and 6 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of a yarn twisted at 1000 T/m. 7 and 8 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of a yarn twisted at 1500 T/m. FIGS. 9 and 10 similarly show a side view and a cross-sectional view of the yarn twisted at 2000 T/m. In addition, all figures 3 to 10 are 75
It is modeled after a denier, 36 filament thread. As modeled in each of these figures, as the number of twists increases, (1) the cohesiveness of the yarn as a whole improves, and (2) there is less tendency for part b to separate from part a. (3) The difference in twist angle between parts a and b becomes small. (4) The diameter ratio of B/A becomes small. When ordinary multifilament yarns with different diameters are twisted, the number of twists (twist angle) is different between the thicker and thinner parts, with twists concentrated in the thinner parts and fewer twists in the thicker parts. There is a tendency for it to be obtained over time. However, on the other hand, the polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn according to the present invention has parts a and b.
The birefringence and torsional rigidity of the part are different, compared to the part a,
Because these values are small in the b part, unlike normal multifilament thick and thin yarns, the twist is not concentrated in the thin part and the entire yarn is almost uniform despite the difference in diameter. It is made by being twisted. In addition, since the partially and intermittently present incompletely stretched portions b have low torsional rigidity, when twisted, they easily separate from the yarn without resisting the twisting torque, and the outer periphery of the twisted yarn Turn around. FIG. 11 shows an example of the relationship between the number of twists and the twist angle in a polyester multifilament thick and thin yarn used in the method of the present invention, divided into a fully stretched section a and an incompletely stretched section b. It is. In addition,
The twist angle mentioned here is determined from tan<a according to the definition of "New Edition Twisting Method" (written by Takenosuke Mikami, pages 3 to 5, Sangyo Tosho Co., Ltd. edition). In FIG. 11, the twist angle increases as the number of twists increases, but the twist angle difference between portions a and b becomes smaller as the number of twists increases. As a result of various investigations regarding the limit value of the number of twists, (1) In order to obtain the desired effects of the present invention,
Preferably, the difference in the twist angle between part a and part b is 2° or more. (2) To be more specific, the structure, density,
Although it varies depending on the number of twists, dyeing and finishing conditions, etc., it has become clear that, in general, it is necessary that the difference in twist angle between part a and part b be at least 1.5° to 3°. (3) Expressing the above in terms of the number of twists, it was found that the limit of the number of twists at which the desired effect of the present invention can be obtained satisfactorily is expressed as T=K/√. Here, T is the limit twisting number, D is the denier (total fineness), and K is a constant of 21430. From this formula, the specific limit number of twists is as shown in Table 2, and if the twisting is performed with a value smaller than this number of twists, the above-mentioned preferable difference in twist angle can be obtained, which is desirable.

[Table] (4) Although it varies depending on the constituent requirements of the fabric (for example, in the case of woven fabrics, fiber structure, warp and weft density, fineness, number of twists, etc.) and dyeing and finishing processing conditions, parts a and b
As mentioned in (1) and (2) above, it is desirable that the difference in twist angle between parts is at least 1.5° to 2°. If the angle is less than 2°, the difference between the turned part existing on the outer periphery of the twisted yarn and the non-turned part becomes extremely small, and the
This is because the presence of the void c in the figure is almost absent or completely absent, and desirable effects (for example, drapability, repellency, bulkiness, wrinkle resistance, etc.) cannot be obtained. Next, the effects of twisting tension are summarized as follows.
FIG. 12. When the tension during twisting becomes large, a
The difference between the twist angles of and b becomes small. In other words, the lower the tension is applied, the greater the difference between the twist angles a and b becomes, and the intended effects of the present invention are more likely to be exhibited. For this reason, it is preferable to reduce the twisting tension. In addition, in the present invention, there is no problem even if the constituent fibers include, in addition to thick fiber portions and thin fiber portions, fiber portions exhibiting a thickness intermediate between these portions. In addition, in the yarn used in the present invention, all of the thick fiber portions in the constituent fibers do not need to form turning portions; for example, between the thick yarn portions B in FIG. There is no need for the thick monofilament portions, which are slightly present in the existing thin thread portions, to be twisted. Furthermore, twisting does not need to be in one direction down over the entire yarn length;
It may be a mixture of Furthermore, it goes without saying that the yarn used in the present invention may partially contain constituent fibers with uniform thickness within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. (Effects of the Invention) Next, the effects of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by the method of the present invention will be described in (1) to (8) below. FIG. 13 shows a cross section of a fabric obtained from ordinary polyester yarn, and FIG. 14 shows a cross section of a fabric obtained according to the present invention. (1) Compared to the cross section of the conventional fabric shown in FIG. 13, the cross section of the fabric obtained using the yarn according to the present invention shows that there is a portion on the outer periphery of the twisted yarn, as shown in FIG. Because the thick single fiber parts that exist intermittently and intermittently are swirling, gaps tend to form around the outer periphery of the twisted yarn, and gaps are likely to form between the warp and weft yarns and within the yarns of both the warp and weft. It has a cavity c. That is, since there are voids both within the yarns and between the yarns, the bending resistance of the woven or knitted fabric is reduced, and a woven or knitted fabric with excellent drapability can be obtained.
This effect can be said to be almost the same as the effect of removing sericin from woven or knitted fabrics. According to the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned void effect due to the yarn structure, the weight loss effect and void formation effect due to alkali processing are further combined, resulting in an even softer feel, better drapability, etc. It is something that can be done. According to the present invention, even with a small weight loss rate, a relatively high hand improvement effect can generally be obtained. (2) When subjected to bending deformation due to similar effects,
The action of the voids c facilitates stress recovery from bending, resulting in a woven or knitted fabric with even greater resilience. In fabrics obtained from ordinary polyester multifilament yarns, drapability and repellency are in a contradictory relationship, and generally, when drapability is imparted, repulsion decreases; however, the polyester long fibers according to the present invention Thick and fine threads are
As mentioned above, both of these characteristics can be satisfied at the same time. In other words, a woven or knitted fabric with good drapability and excellent repellency can be obtained. (3) Since there are voids both within the single filament and between the single filaments, recovery against external pressure is imparted and wrinkle resistance is improved. (4) Woven and knitted fabrics with rich shari taste (sharp feeling) can be obtained due to the twisting effect. It also has a mild luster. (5) Since the twisted yarn has a turning part on the outer periphery, a woven or knitted fabric can be obtained that can be said to be bulky considering the amount of yarn used. (6) Since the entire multifilament yarn has thick parts as shown in FIG. 1, a woven or knitted fabric with a unique texture due to the local thickness unevenness of the natural fibers and spun yarns can be obtained. (7) By intertwisting, combining, or alternately using other yarns with different dyeability, it is possible to obtain woven or knitted fabrics with good color development and deep coloring, or woven or knitted fabrics with a multicolor effect of three or more colors. I can do it. (8) Furthermore, since the dyeability of the thicker parts differs, when dyed, a difference in shade occurs, and a woven or knitted fabric with a heathered or marbling effect can be obtained as desired. (Example) The present invention will be specifically described below based on Examples. Examples/Comparative Examples The polyester multifilament thick yarn (marked with * in Table 3) according to the present invention used in this example was as follows:
A semi-undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn spun at 3250 m/min was made into a drawn yarn using a hot pin in a drawing machine. The obtained yarn had thickness unevenness partially and intermittently in the fiber axis direction, and the ratio of thick and thin axis diameters (B/A) was 1.40 to 1.65. Also, the birefringence of the thick part (part b in Figure 1) is 20 to 45×
10 ^-3 , and the birefringence of the thin part (part a in Figure 1) is
140-170×10 ^-3 , some ivy. As a result of twisting such yarns, for example, as shown in FIGS. 3 to 10, thick fiber portions partially and intermittently present in the constituent fibers are turned around the twisted yarns. I got something. Incidentally, the weight loss rate (%) due to alkali treatment in the examples was determined as follows. Weight loss rate (%) = {(Weight of untreated sample - Weight of treated sample) / (Weight of untreated sample)} x 100 As is clear from Table 3, the obtained fabric has many characteristics. , and was rich in new added value that had not existed before.

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【table】 [Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing a model of a multifilament yarn before twisting, which is a raw material yarn of the polyester long fiber thick and thin yarn used in the present invention, and FIG. It is a thread sectional view. Figures 3, 5, 7, and 9 show the yarns shown in Figure 1 at 500T/m, 1000T/m, and
FIG. 4 is a side view showing the side model structure of yarn obtained by twisting at 1500T/m and 2000T/m;
6, 8, and 10 are cross-sectional views of the respective threads. FIG. 11 is a graph illustrating the relationship between the number of twists and the twist angle, and FIG. 12 is a graph illustrating the relationship between the twisting tension and the twist angle. 13th
14 shows a cross-sectional view of a model structure of a woven fabric, FIG. 13 is a sectional view of a woven fabric obtained from ordinary polyester yarn, and FIG. 14 shows a sectional view of a woven fabric obtained by the method of the present invention. It shows a cross-sectional view. A: A portion where the entire yarn is thin, B: A portion where the yarn is thick as a whole, a: Completely stretched portion in the constituent fibers, b: Incompletely stretched portion in the constituent fibers, c: Voids obtained in the woven fabric.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. Single fibers constituting the yarn are long fibers that have a thickness change in the fiber axis direction, and the dyeing ability of the thick fiber portion and the thin fiber portion are different, and Knitting and weaving using at least a twisted polyester multifilament yarn having thick and thin changes in the yarn length direction, in which a thick single fiber portion is mainly present in a swirl around the outer periphery of the yarn. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material, which comprises then subjecting the woven or knitted material to an alkali weight loss treatment. 2. A patent claim characterized in that the yarn to be knitted and woven is a yarn in which the thick fiber portion turns at an angle larger than the twist angle of the yarn body and is mainly present on the outer periphery of the yarn. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material according to Scope 1.