JPH0143064B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a method for producing a nubuck-like fabric having raised microfine fibers.

(Prior Art) A method of knitting and weaving using composite fibers obtained by spinning two or more different polymers into a multilayer laminated form and raising the knitted fabric is known. For example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 54-43635, when manufacturing a suede-like knitted fabric by peeling off the composite fibers after weaving and raising the composite fibers, , at a temperature of 180℃ or less, and
False-twisted with a number of false twists of 2500 to 3300T/M,
After applying mechanical deformation to the extent that the bonded part does not peel off due to the stress received in the subsequent winding and knitting processes, this action makes it easy to peel off after knitting and weaving. A method is disclosed.

Furthermore, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 58-9175, a bulky yarn is produced by using the composite fiber as a sheath yarn to cover a core yarn, and partially cutting the single fibers constituting the sheath yarn to create fluff. A method is disclosed in which, after the bulky yarn is formed and knitted or woven using this bulky yarn, the bond of single fibers constituting the sheath yarn is peeled off. As shown in these methods, in the conventional method, the composite fiber is separated after being made into a knitted fabric, and then the raising process is carried out, so the raising process is not easy, especially when buffing is used. With light brushing such as
Problems were observed, such as the raised fibers tending to be uneven and a surface having a fine fluff density could not be obtained.

(Objective of the Invention) The present invention improves such drawbacks by peeling and splitting the composite fibers before knitting and weaving to obtain a composite yarn with different fibers, and by utilizing the unique properties of the composite yarn with different fibers, The object of the present invention is to propose a method for producing a nubuck-like fabric that allows the knitted fabric to be easily raised and has a fluffiness, a soft touch, and a beautiful fluffy surface that could not be obtained conventionally.

(Structure of the Invention) The present invention uses a fiber-forming polyester polymer (P) and a fiber-forming polyamide polymer (N) as two or more different polymers, and the (P) and (N ) are alternately arranged adjacent to each other multiple times and the fineness after division is 0.1 to 1.2 de. The adjacent interface of the composite yarn is peeled and divided along the yarn axis at random finite length points and has different fineness. , (P)-(N), (P)-(N)-(P), (N) in the exfoliated split fibers.
- (P) - (N) A different fiber composite yarn containing at least one type of yarn having an adjacent arrangement;
After knitting and weaving the different fiber composite yarn, the method for producing a nubuck-like fabric is characterized in that after the different fiber composite yarn is mainly raised, the yarn is sheared so that the length of the fluff is 0.1 mm or less. .

The composite yarn used in the present invention is one in which a fiber-forming polyester polymer (P) and a fiber-forming polyamide polymer (N) are placed adjacent to each other multiple times, and these polymers (P) , (N) are conventionally known ones. As for the number of adjacent components, the total number of component parts (P) and (N) is in the range of 4 to 40, more preferably in the range of 10 to 20. If the number of adjacent installations is less than 4, the divided fibers will not form a composite structure like (P)-(N) and cannot be used in the method of the present invention. Moreover, if the number of adjacent installations exceeds 40, the equipment and operation of the spinning process becomes complicated, which is not preferable.

In this way, the cross section of the composite yarn in which the fiber-forming polymers are alternately placed adjacent to each other a plurality of times is preferably exemplified as having a hollow annular cross section in the direction orthogonal to the yarn axis. In particular, the composite yarn of different fibers used in the present invention preferably has a hollow part, since split fibers are obtained mainly by mechanical treatment, and the hollow part has a hollow ratio of 0.1 to 15%. More preferably, those having a hollowness ratio of 0.1 to 10% are exemplified. Here, the hollowness ratio is expressed by the ratio S ₁ /S ₀ ×100, which is obtained by enlarging the drawn yarn under a microscope and measuring the cross-sectional area S ₀ of the single fiber and the cross-sectional area S 1 of _{the hollow} part.

Further, the shape of the hollow portion is not limited to a perfect circle, and may be elliptical or non-circular.

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a cross section in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis before peeling and splitting as a composite yarn with different fibers used in the present invention, in which 1 is a cross-sectional view of a fiber-forming polyamide polymer (N). show. As shown in FIG. 1, the most suitable example is one having a hollow annular cross section, with (P) and (N) disposed adjacent to each other in the tangential direction of the hollow ring.

In a hollow annular composite yarn as shown in Figure 1,
Even if the structure is symmetrical, it can be easily divided into different fibers, (P)-(N), (P)-(N)-
Fibers consisting of a combination of (P), (N)-(P)-(N) can be easily obtained.

Further, the total polymerization ratio of the fiber-forming polymers (P) and (N) can be arbitrarily selected within the range of 30:70 to 70:30, and the denier of each component can be determined depending on the purpose of use. It can be arbitrarily selected according to the above, and is preferably in the range of 0.1 to 1.2.

Incidentally, such a composite yarn can be manufactured by conventionally known spinning and reeling methods.

The yarn of the present invention uses such a composite yarn to peel and divide the adjacent interface (i.e., the bonding surface) formed by the fiber-forming polymers (P) and (N). This is generated at random finite length locations.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view schematically showing an example of a composite yarn with different fibers used in the method of the present invention, in which 1 is (P), 2 is
3 indicates the constituent parts made of the respective polymers of (N), and 3 indicates the voids generated by the division.

In this way, the different fiber composite yarn used in the present invention is
Its feature is that the peeling and divisions occur randomly and at locations with a finite length. Moreover, the peeling and splitting points are distributed along the yarn axis direction, preferably occurring without interruption (that is, continuously), resulting in multifilament yarns having various finenesses.

Furthermore, since the peeling and splitting is performed at random finite length locations as described above, the split filaments grow in some places and have a kind of network structure.

Furthermore, the multi-filament composite yarn used in the present invention has a part of the multi-filament yarn (P)-(N),
(P) - (N) - (P), (N) - (P) - (N)
It is important that the fibers contain at least one set of split filaments that are arranged adjacent to each other.

Furthermore, it is preferable that the split fibers of these three types are contained in an amount of 5% or more in any given cross section.

If the content is less than 5%, (P)-(N)
This is because the effect of the divided filaments is weak and the effect of creating desired voids between the filaments may be reduced.

Incidentally, peeling and division for imparting such a yarn form can be achieved by applying continuous mechanical force to the composite yarns of the adjacently installed structure, for example, continuous ironing treatment of the yarns, temporary Twisting-untwisting processing, (e.g.
This can be achieved by high pressure treatment (false twisting without using a heating device), and in addition to these, it can also be used in conjunction with mild entangling treatment, partial heat treatment, and moist heat treatment. is also possible.

Also, (P)-(N), (P)-(N)-(P),
The content of (N)-(P)-(N) can be adjusted by the degree and combination of these mechanical effects. However, when used in combination with heat treatment, the amount of heat and temperature that would affect the entire yarn must be avoided. This is because heating before dividing the composite yarn produces (P)-(N), (P)-(N)-(P),
This is because (N)-(P)-(N), etc. may be affected, thereby inhibiting the occurrence of twisting and crimp due to compounding.

In the method of the present invention, knitting and weaving is performed using such a composite yarn of different fibers, but the structure of the knitted fabric or woven fabric is not particularly limited. Further, the composite yarn having different fibers may be used together with other yarns to perform inter-knitting and inter-weaving. In particular, in the fabric used in the present invention, it is effective when using a composite yarn with different fibers as the warp and raising the composite yarn with different fibers in the warp.

In addition, the knitted fabric may be subjected to a bulking treatment (for example, a wet treatment or a hot water treatment) to make the different fiber composite yarn even bulkier before being subjected to the napping treatment. It is valid.

Further, the method of the napping treatment is not particularly limited, but buffing is preferred in order to obtain a nubuck-like surface with delicate fluff.

(Operation of the invention) According to the method of the present invention having the above-described configuration, the raised fibers are not damaged by a light raising process such as buffing, and the raised fibers are covered with beautiful raised hair without raised spots. A nubuck-like fabric with a nappy surface and a delicate surface touch is obtained.

In addition, this nubuck-style fabric has a fluffy texture and a novel texture due to the bulkiness of the different fiber composite yarns. That is, the composite yarn of different fibers used in the method of the present invention has (P)--
(N), (P) - (N) - (P), (N) - (P) -
(N), these split fiber yarns are particularly susceptible to thermal history such as hydrothermal treatment as they undergo subsequent processing such as wet treatment. By receiving (P) and (N)
Twisting and crimp occur due to the difference in physical properties between the fibers, creating delicate voids between the fibers.

Furthermore, the voids are not only caused by changes in the shape of the twisted or crimped portion, but also are accentuated by the complex network structure of the yarn itself. In other words, the relative yarn length of split filaments that are twisted or crimped decreases due to changes in their morphology (a type of shrinkage), but as a result, the entire heterofiber composite yarn decreases along the yarn axis direction. An apparent thread is formed between the split fibers that have been subjected to the shrinking action and have caused twisting or crimp, and the split fibers that have little or no twisting or crimp. Since the fibers have a length difference and the split fibers having these yarn length differences form a network structure, the yarn has a fluffiness and bulkiness that have never been seen before.

In the conventional method of using composite yarn with different fibers, it is divided by chemical treatment after being made into a fabric, so it cannot be subjected to the yarn structure and action as in the present invention. It has also been proposed to divide it into various finenesses through processing;
In the method using the raising process, only the raised fibers are divided into different fibers, so it was not possible to achieve the same effect as the composite of different fibers used in the method of the present invention.

As mentioned above, the composite yarn with different fibers used in the present invention has a network structure that allows for delicate voids between the yarns, so it gives fullness to the fabric made using it, and also allows the fibers to be separated. Since fibers with a large fineness that is not too thick are also mixed, it is possible to impart appropriate stiffness and tension to the fabric, and furthermore, by imparting the above-mentioned bulk, it is easy to raise the fabric.

Furthermore, in the composite yarn of different fibers used in the present invention, it is possible to make the fineness of the individual component parts arranged adjacent to each other to be ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 1 denier or less. It is possible to obtain a nubuck-style fabric that has been woven into a cloth.

(Example 1) A hollow annular composite yarn 75de/20fil ((P) and (N) in which a polyester polymer (P) and a polyamide polymer (N) are alternately arranged adjacent to each other multiple times as shown in FIG. weight ratio = 50:50, number of each layer = 8 + 8 (total 16
layer), hollow ratio 10%) was pressed and crimped at a temperature of 60℃, then false twisted at room temperature (number of twists = 3800T/M) -
A false-twisting treatment was performed to cause exfoliation and division, and a composite yarn with different fibers in which the fineness of the divided fibers ranged from 0.23 de to 1.88 de was obtained.

In the heterofiber composite yarn, the above-mentioned exfoliation and division occur at random locations with a finite length, and the filaments exhibit a network structure, with (P)-(N), (P)-(N)-(P ),
The average percentage of fibers with a composite structure of (N)-(P)-(N) in the cross section was 21%. Furthermore, regarding the different fiber composite yarn, before splitting,
After splitting, the bulkiness of the product treated with hot water after splitting
When measured using the JIS 1090 “5.9 bulkiness” measurement method (Method B), the bulkiness is 3.2, 6.1, and 11.4, respectively.
It was found that the composite yarn with different fibers becomes extremely bulky.

Such a different fiber composite yarn with an additional twist of 150T/M was used for the warp, and an untwisted different fiber composite yarn was used for the weft, with a warp density of 304 threads/3.8 cm and a weft density of 160.
This fabric is woven with 5 pieces of 3.8cm warp satin weave, and the warp is mainly buffed to raise the fabric.
The hair was sheared. The resulting fabric has microfine fibers that form a fluffy shape that covers the surface with high density, and the length of the fluff is short and uniform at about 0.1 mm, and has a soft surface touch. A fabric with elasticity and optimal fullness was obtained.

Example 2 The different fiber composite yarn obtained in Example 1 was fed to the front yarn, and the polyester processed yarn was fed to the back yarn.
50d/24f is fed and knitted into a 1×3 sateen warp knit, and the surface knitted with the yarn fed to the front knit is raised with a needle cloth raising machine and then lightly sheared so that the raised surface is not fluffy. A raised knitted fabric was obtained by aligning them so that the thickness was 0.1 mm. The raised knitted fabric had a rich soft leather-like texture, a stronger luster, and excellent drape properties.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a cross section in a direction perpendicular to the fiber axis before peeling and splitting as a composite yarn with different fibers used in the present invention, and FIG. 2 is an example of a composite yarn with different fibers used in the present invention. FIG. 1...Fiber-forming polyester polymer (P),
2...Fiber-forming polyester polymer (N).

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A fiber-forming polyester polymer (P) and a fiber-forming polyamide polymer (N) are alternately arranged adjacent to each other multiple times, and the fineness after division is 0.1 to 1.2 de.
The adjacent interface of the composite yarn is peeled and split along the yarn axis at random finite length points to have different finenesses, and (P)-(N),
(P) - (N) - (P), (N) - (P) - (N)
A partially exfoliated heterogeneous composite yarn containing at least one type of yarn having an adjacent arrangement of A method for producing a nubatsuku-style fabric, which comprises raising a part of a composite yarn with different fibers and then shearing it so that the length of the fluff becomes 0.1 mm or less. 2. Claim 1, wherein the composite yarn has a hollow ring-shaped cross section in a direction perpendicular to its fiber axis, and (P) and (N) are arranged adjacent to each other in the tangential direction of the hollow ring. the method of.