JPH0149812B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing mulberry cloth, and particularly to a method for manufacturing mulberry cloth that is easy to weave, soft, and wrinkle-resistant.

[Conventional technology]

Traditionally, mulberry cloth has existed in the Chuetsu region of Niigata Prefecture since ancient times. An older type of fabric is Echigo Angin (knitted fabric), in which the warp threads are twisted like ropes and the weft threads are inserted between them.
It is of very thick material. The reason why it is so thick is that the bast fibers are thick and short, giving it a mushy-like feel.

In addition, kozo cloth (cotton) made in the Edo period was used as hakama material and mountain wear.

The method used to make thread for kozo cloth from the Edo period to the Meiji era was (1) cutting the mulberry tree from its roots, and (2) immersing it in a pond to corrode the outer skin.

(3) Peel the skin at the hill and wash it with water to extract the bast.

(4) Expose the bast to sunlight on snow for about 10 days.

(5) Tear the bast and make thread.

The thread is tied in the same way as hemp thread, and is knitted without twisting.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

In the conventional method of making threads for kozo cloth, the natural kozo bast fibers are taken out as they are and made into threads, so the threads have low rigidity and low elasticity. This is because the cellulose is somewhat lignified.

Furthermore, since the thread is hand-split from bast, it is not twisted, but hand-knotted, and has the disadvantage of being weak in tension. Therefore, it is difficult to weave thin threads on a loom, and the threads stretch, making Kasuri dyeing impossible.

In addition, dried mulberry bast is like crude steel, making it difficult to make threads. In other words, it hurt the tips of my fingers and toes, and it was extremely difficult to tear them into thin threads of size 100 or less.

On the other hand, it is known that hemp fibers in a broad sense can be softened by boiling them in sodium hydroxide, but when boiled at high temperatures, the fibers break apart and become flocculent. In addition, even if the fibers do not become flocculent, they become brittle and cannot be used as yarn.

[Means for solving the problems] The present invention was invented for the purpose of solving the above problems and providing a kozo cloth that is easy to weave, soft, and has excellent strength. In this method, kozo bast is softened by boiling it in a weak alkaline solution prepared by diluting 0.25 to 0.4% by weight of sodium hydroxide with respect to dried kozo bast, and the kozo bast is shredded to produce hand-spun kozo yarn. The dried, hand-spun mulberry thread is twisted together with water-wet hemp thread, dried and the hemp thread is shrunk to tighten the mulberry thread, then kasuri dyeing is applied to the board. This is a method for producing kozo cloth, which is characterized by winding the mulberry cloth in a shuttle and weaving it into a woven cloth as weft yarns.

[Effect]

According to the present invention configured as described above, the fibers are not damaged by sodium hydroxide and become flexible, making it easier to tear with the tips of the fingers and into thin pieces with the tips of the toes.

In addition, mulberry bast fiber is a single fiber with a smooth surface, and threading involves aligning the rear end of one fiber with the tip of a local fiber and twisting the combined part with your fingers. Therefore, if you pull it too hard, it will come off, but in the present invention, this mulberry thread and
The mulberry thread is twisted with water-wetted hemp thread and dried, and the mulberry thread is tightened by taking advantage of the shrinkage of the hemp thread as it dries, making kasuri dyeing easier (the mulberry thread alone stretches There is no thread breakage during weaving or shuttle throwing, and the fabric is flexible after weaving.

〔Example〕

Examples of the present invention will be described in detail.

(1) First, mulberry trees are planted on the slopes of valleys and riverside mountains, and when the leaves have fallen and the trees enter their dormant period, they are harvested from the roots.

(2) Next, cut it to a certain length. The length is around 2m, with good quality ones sometimes reaching 3m.

(3) Place raw mulberry in a steamer and steam for 20 minutes. A simple steamer is a drum can that is split vertically to make a pot, and a steamer basket is placed on top, allowing for easy steaming on a riverbed or the like. Additionally, the mulberry is stored in a stainless steel tank, and steam is sent in from the boiler to steam it. Steaming at 90°C to 200°C is sufficient.

(4) Once steamed, the bark of the mulberry tree will peel off easily, so remove it from the steamer and peel it.
The peeled skin is washed with water and separated into the epidermis and bast. This bast is stretched and dried in the shade for storage.

(5) The dried mulberry bast is lined up on a snowfield in the spring of the following year when the snow melts (from the end of February to March) and left for 7 to 10 days to be exposed to the snow. As a result of this snow exposure, during the day the snow melts and soaks into the kozo bast, absorbs infrared and ultraviolet rays due to the reflection of ultraviolet rays from the snow and swells, and at night it freezes, and the expansion of water during freezing causes separation between the bast fibers. This has a bleaching and softening effect on the fibers.

(6) After exposure to snow, bast fibers are dried in the sun and stored.

(7) Next, perform flexibility processing.

First, add 5g of sodium hydroxide to 8 parts of water.
Make a weak alkaline solution by mixing it in the following proportions, add 1.5 kg of dried mulberry bast to this solution, and boil it for 2 hours in a pot. As a result, the pectin component of the bast fibers is leached out, giving it appropriate flexibility.

If the concentration of this weak alkaline solution is too high, the bast fibers will separate into floccules and become unusable, so it is better to keep the concentration as low as possible, but if it is too thin, it will not be possible to soften the solution. Therefore, the amount of sodium hydroxide per 1 kg of dried mulberry bast is preferably in the range of 2.5 to 4 g (0.25% to 0.4% by weight).

The amount of diluting water is adjusted to a target amount of 3 to 8, preferably 4 to 6.4, relative to the amount of sodium hydroxide, depending on the shape of the pot, the soaking state of the bast fibers, etc.

(8) After boiling, drain the bast fibers into clean water (river, pond, washing machine).
Rinse thoroughly with water to remove soda content.

(9) Next, bleach if necessary.

Add 2 bast fibers with the above softening treatment to a bleach solution containing 300 g of chlorchloride per 40 g of water.
Soak for an hour and bleach. After bleaching, clean water (river,
Rinse thoroughly with water (in a pond or washing machine) to remove limescale and dry.

(10) The dried skin fibers are manually threaded.

First, the bast fibers are in the form of thin, flat strings, so tear them from the base with your fingers until they are thin. For fibers that are at the limit of tearing with your fingers, put one end in your mouth and pull it with your left hand, tear it with the nails of your right hand, and insert your nails into the cracks and move them up and down to tear them towards the tip. By repeating this process, a thin monofilament yarn of around 100 count can be obtained. Take two of these monofilament threads, line up the tip of one end and the base end of the other by 3 to 5 cm, press the part with the fingers of both hands, and move them in opposite directions (with the thumb and index finger of your right hand) Twist it, twist it a little with your left thumb and forefinger, and put it in a bucket.

(11) The hand-spun mulberry thread is twisted into a skein-like pattern.

(12) Next, twist the yarn. Since mulberry thread is made by splicing together monofilament threads and single-filament threads, it is not twisted as a whole, and if you pull it with too much force, it will come loose from the spliced parts. Therefore, the mulberry thread and 100-count hemp thread, which had been prepared separately and wet with water, are combined and twisted. The number of twists is 100 to 150 times per meter. The purpose of wetting the hemp with water is to improve the twisting of the hemp and kozo thread, and to prevent the hemp from breaking. Since the hemp thread is wet, it can withstand the tension during twisting, and when it dries, the hemp thread, which had expanded with water, contracts, tightens the mulberry thread, and stretches, making it a thread that will not slip out.

(13) Kasuri dyeing is used for dyeing. Traditionally, mulberry thread is dyed in a single color. This is because it was not intended for women's wear and did not require edible properties. In addition, from a technical point of view, the twists at the joints of the threads become loose and the threads stretch due to tension, so even if kasuri dyeing is applied, when weaving, the kasuri patterns will not match due to the thread stretching, making it technically difficult. This is because it was hot.

In the present invention, as described above, twisting is performed by combining and twisting hemp threads wetted with water,
This prevents the thread from stretching. This thread is used as the weft, and is wound around a spatula made of bamboo, and the printing agent is rubbed into each thread on both sides of the spatula using a spatula according to the design pattern. This kasuri dyeing method uses a general pattern for weft kasuri printing, but the dye only adheres to one side of the thread, so the dye is rubbed in with a bamboo spatula. By doing this, the thread rotates and Kasuri dyeing can be done without unevenness on the top and bottom.

What you need to be careful about with this kasuri dyeing process is that when the dye is softened, it will run in the direction of the fibers due to capillary action, so it is better to use a high viscosity, and the thread paste should be dark. is better.

After kasuri dyeing, the fabric is wrapped around a spatula and steamed in the same way as regular textile printing to develop color and fix the color, and then turned into a weaving machine.

(14) Weaving is done on handlooms (high looms). The bag Nagoya obi is woven, the warp is silk 180-200 denier, 120 threads, and the ground weft is silk 759 denier, threads are woven.
The kasuri-dyed linen yarn and mulberry thread are woven at a ratio of 30 strands per spacing. The thickness of the mulberry thread is approximately 759 denier.

Since mulberry thread cannot be wrapped around a normal shuttle pipe, a plate shuttle was used. The fabric is plainly weaved, and the ground weft is usually inserted using a shuttle, and the mulberry yarn (kasuri-dyed yarn) is inserted using a plate shuttle, and after the cloth is matched with kasuri in an open state, it is beaten with a reed. By continuing this process, it is possible to weave a kozo cloth obi having a Kasuri pattern.

After removing the loom from the loom, it is soaked in lukewarm water at 25°C to 30°C to remove desizing and finish.

The mulberry cloth obi woven in this way is extremely soft in the mulberry thread part, and is wrinkle-resistant and has a rustic texture and color that cannot be achieved with other fibers, combined with an elegant Kasuri pattern, making it a hobby obi. To allow a user to enjoy the hobby with elegance.

In addition, since the warp and ground weft of the obi fabric as a whole are made of silk, it is strong, easy to tighten, and supple, and the stiffness of the mulberry thread combines with this to create a obi that has a nice texture and is comfortable to wear.

The present invention is not limited to the above configuration, and the ratio of interweaving can be changed as appropriate, and the count can also be changed as appropriate. The kasuri pattern does not have to be all over the obi (all the obi, six lines), it can be just the drum and the body.

〔effect〕

Since the present invention is configured as described above, it has the following effects.

(b) A weak alkaline solution is prepared by calculating the amount of sodium hydroxide relative to the weight of the kozo bast, and the kozo bast is soaked in this solution and boiled for 2 hours, so the kozo bast does not become brittle and is in good condition. Flexible processing is possible.

(b) Hand-spun mulberry yarn and hemp thread wetted with water are twisted together and dried, so the hemp yarn shrinks and the mulberry yarn is tightened so tightly that the mulberry yarn does not slip out and break and loses its stretch, so kasuri dyeing is performed. be able to.

(c) Since mulberry thread is used as the weft for kasuri, it is possible to express the full weft kasuri pattern even when mixed with silk, human silk, or synthetic fibers. Combined with simplicity, it is possible to obtain cloth that is a hobby.

(d) Although it is a rough and rigid material, it is flexible through various processing, and it is possible to obtain cloth that is durable, unbreakable, and has an elegance that cannot be found in other fibers.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Boil the kozo bast for 2 hours in a weak alkaline solution prepared by diluting 0.25 to 0.4% by weight of sodium hydroxide against the dried kozo bast to soften it, then tear the kozo bast into small pieces and weave hand-spun kozo thread. The dried hand-spun mulberry thread and the hemp thread moistened with water are twisted together, dried, and the hemp thread is shrunk to tighten the mulberry thread. Kasuri dyeing is then carried out, and this is put into a board shuttle. A method for producing kozo cloth, which comprises winding it up and weaving it into a woven cloth as weft yarns.