JPH0159367B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

[Technical Field] The present invention relates to a method for producing processed yarn that has natural silk-like crimp and bulkiness, has loops and entanglements, and has the appearance and feel of silk-spun yarn. [Prior art and its problems] Conventionally, methods for imparting natural silk-like crimping and bulk have been disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-33377 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 52-33377.
The method of non-uniform random heat treatment under low tension as proposed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 40642, and the method of imparting the appearance of silk spinning, are disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open Nos. 1983-68130 and 1983-68131. A method of highly entangling processing using fluid turbulence processing, as proposed in , is known. However, in the former case, since the heat treatment is performed non-uniformly and randomly under low tension, only one side of the yarn tends to be heat treated, which tends to cause dyeing defects called sink marks on the fabric. Also, in terms of quality, it has the sliminess and luster characteristic of synthetic fibers, and is not even close to the texture of natural silk. In the latter case, highly entangled processing reduces the slimy and shiny feel, but it lacks the fine crimp and soft bulkiness of natural silk, resulting in a rough and stiff texture. do not have. [Object of the Invention] The object of the present invention is to improve the shortcomings of the prior art, and to create a bulky processed silk fabric that has soft slight curling and swelling similar to natural silk, has no slimy feeling, and has good luster. A method for manufacturing yarn is provided. [Structure of the Invention] In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following structure. In other words, a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is supplied to a fluid turbulence zone with an overfeed of 3 to 12%, and the yarn is run in contact with a heating element heated to 190 to 250 degrees Celsius while giving irregular vibrations to the yarn. After the bulking process, confounding process is performed by supplying fluid with a fluid pressure of 3.0 Kg/cm ³ G or more to the ejected fluid turbulence area at a relaxation rate of 3 to 18%, and then 1 to 4 This is a method for producing silk-spun latent bulky yarn, which is characterized by subjecting it to elongation treatment of %. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained using the drawings. FIG. 1 is a process diagram showing one embodiment of the present invention. In FIG. 1, the undrawn yarn Y is unrolled from an undrawn yarn drum 1 on which a thermoplastic multifilament undrawn yarn Y obtained by a normal spinning method is wound, and then passed through a feed roller 2, a knit roller 3, and a drawing pin. 4. Stretch by stretching roller 5. Next, the stretched yarn is supplied to the fluid nozzle 6 with a difference in circumferential speed between the stretching roller 5 and the feeding roller 8 with an overfeed of 3 to 12%, and is heated at 190 to 250°C while giving irregular vibrations. A latent bulking process is performed by running the sheet in contact with a hot plate 7, which is a heating body heated to . Next, a difference in circumferential speed is given between the feeding roller 3 and the relaxation roller 11, and the material is fed to the fluid entangling processing nozzle 9 in a relaxed state of 3 to 18% to perform an entangling process and give the appearance of silk spinning. . Next, a difference in circumferential speed is applied between the relaxing roller 11 and the stretching roller 13, and stretching is performed at a stretching rate of 1 to 4% to eliminate coarse loops and weakly entangled portions. Preferably, heat treatment using the elongation treatment hot plate 12 is performed simultaneously with the elongation treatment. Thereafter, the cheese 15 is wound around the drive roller 14 to complete the process. In the present invention, before running the yarn in contact with a heating element, the yarn is passed through a turbulent region by a fluid nozzle with an overfeed of 3 to 12% to spread the yarn, and each single yarn is subjected to irregular vibrations. It is necessary to give The most desirable fluid to be used is air from an economical point of view. If the overfeed rate is less than 3%, the yarn will not be opened enough, and one side of the yarn will be selectively heat-treated, causing sink marks, and there will be no crimp or bulge, so over 3%. is necessary,
On the other hand, if it exceeds 12%, the running state of the yarn on the heating element becomes unstable and coarse loops increase.
Must be less than %. Further, in the present invention, when performing the latent bulking process, it is necessary to run the material in contact with a heating body heated to 190 to 250°C. If the temperature of the heating element is less than 190℃, the heat treatment effect will be insufficient and the occurrence of crimp will be significantly reduced.
On the other hand, if the temperature is higher than 250℃, the threads will fuse on the heating element, resulting in shine (glossy defects) on the fabric after weaving. Therefore, the temperature of the heating element must be in the range 190-250°C. In addition to the hot plate shown in Figure 1, the shape of the heating body can be a regular pin or a rotating roller, but for the purpose of achieving a sufficient heat treatment effect at high processing speeds of 350 to 1000 m/min. A hot plate or rotating roller is preferred. In the present invention, following the bulking process described above, the fluid pressure is increased to 3.0 at a relaxation rate of 3 to 18%.
It is necessary to supply a fluid of Kg/cm ² G or more to the jetted fluid turbulence region to open the yarn and perform an entangling process to generate loops and entanglements. The fluid entanglement process prevents defects such as sink marks on the fabric when only one side of the yarn is heat treated due to variations in the heat treatment received in the previous process. It gives a textured appearance and a mild luster. In other words, this defect is reduced to a state where there is no problem at all in practical use, and loops and tangles are imparted through advanced interlacing processing. The relaxation rate in this intertwining process is 3%.
If it is less than 18%, the threads will not be opened enough, entanglement will be reduced, and the appearance of silk spinning will not be exhibited. Since quality fluctuations due to variations in confounding also increase, the relaxation rate must be 18% or less. Therefore, the relaxation rate must be in the range of 3 to 18%, and more preferably in the range of 5 to 15%. Air is the most desirable fluid to be used in the fluid bulking nozzle, and if the pressure is less than 3.0 Kg/cm ² G, the effect of imparting entanglement cannot be expected.
3.0Kg/cm ² G or more is required. Furthermore, in the present invention, it is necessary to perform an elongation process of 1 to 4% after the above-mentioned entangling process. The purpose of this elongation process is to eliminate coarse loops generated during the interlacing process and weak intertwined parts that disappear due to the process tension applied during the weaving process, and has excellent passability in higher-order processing processes. This is carried out in order to obtain silk-spun potentially bulky processed yarn of stable quality. If the elongation rate in the elongation process is less than 1%, it will not be effective in erasing coarse loops or weakly intertwined parts, while if it exceeds 4%, even the necessary intertwined parts will be erased.
The elongation rate should be in the range of 1-4%. In addition, in order to strengthen the entanglement of the intertwined part after the elongation treatment and to shrink and eliminate the single yarn loops that protrude from the yarn bundle, heat treatment was performed at a temperature that is at least 10°C lower than the temperature of the heating element used in the latent bulking process. It will be more effective if you perform decompression processing while That is, in the elongation process, it is desirable to simultaneously perform heat treatment using the hot plate 12 in order to enhance the effect of the elongation process. Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a preferred fluid nozzle used to impart irregular vibrations to the yarn in the latent bulking process, where 16 shows the yarn path and 17 shows the compressed air introduction hole. . FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a preferred fluid entangling nozzle for imparting the appearance of silk spinning, in which 18 shows a pressure air introduction hole, 19 a yarn guide, and 20 a collision plate. Air is the most preferable fluid to be supplied to the fluid entangling nozzle from an economical point of view. The thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn that can be used in the present invention includes polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, and polyvinyl yarns, and polyester yarns are particularly preferably used. Polyesters include, for example, terephthalic acid as the main dibasic acid, and glycols include those using ethylene glycol or cyclohexane dimether as the main glycol, or those using ethylene oxybenzoate, and various ester-forming compounds. It may be a copolymerized product. Further, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impeded, the multifilament yarn may contain known additives, antistatic agents, flame release agents, etc.
Modifiers such as dye-seating components may also be included. The cross section may be round or irregularly shaped, but irregularly shaped, particularly triangular in cross section, is preferred in order to give the appearance of silk-like texture. Further, from the viewpoint of ease of intertwining, the single yarns constituting the yarn are preferably 3.0 denier or less and composed of 20 or more yarns, and the yarns preferably have a total denier of 30 to 200 deniers. FIG. 4a is a schematic view schematically showing a silk-spun potentially bulky yarn obtained by the method of the present invention, in which L ₁ indicates an entangled portion and L ₂ indicates an unentangled portion. Fig. 4b is a schematic diagram showing the state in which the silk spun latent bulky processed yarn of Fig. 4a is subjected to relaxation heat treatment under the conditions implemented in the higher-order process to develop crimp and become a silk spun high bulky processed yarn. is a schematic diagram shown in , where L ₁ ′ is the interlaced part,
L ₂ ′ indicates the unconfounded part. [Effects of the Invention] As explained above, the silk spun latent bulky yarn of the present invention has interlaced portions having loops and substantially straight unentangled portions alternately in the length direction of the yarn, In addition, it has the ability to develop fine curls,
It becomes bulky by applying Relax heat treatment after knitting and weaving, and has a soft warmth, excellent drapability, a silky feel, and a mild luster.In addition to a deep color tone, the shape of interlaced and non-entangled parts and A silk-spun woven or knitted fabric exhibiting a mild kasuri-like appearance based on the contrast of gloss differences is obtained. Furthermore, since the silk spun latent bulky yarn of the present invention is subjected to fluid entanglement processing after heat treatment latent bulking processing,
Unlike conventional latent bulky yarns, woven and knitted fabrics do not have sink-like defects caused by heat treatment spots, and can be made bulky.Furthermore, since the bulking is carried out after knitting and weaving, high-dimensional In the processing process, it has excellent unwinding properties from cheese and passability through the weaving and knitting process, and the resulting woven or knitted fabric has a strong shaving effect that is unpleasant, unlike conventional silk-spun processed yarn. It exhibits a soft and mild rasp tone without any blemishes. Further, according to the present invention, it is possible to efficiently produce silk-spun latent bulky processed yarn having stable bulk and high performance and loop and entangled forms under stable processing conditions. Next, the calculation method of the overfeed rate during latent bulk processing, the relaxation rate during fluid entanglement processing, and the elongation rate during elongation processing is shown below. [Overfeed rate during potential bulk processing] When the surface speeds of the drawing roller that feeds yarn into the potential bulk processing area in Fig. 1 and the feed roller that takes it out are V ₁ and V ₂ m/min, respectively, the overfeed rate (% )=V ₁ −V ₂ /V ₁ ×100. [Relaxation rate during fluid entanglement processing] When the surface speeds of the feeding roller that feeds the yarn into the fluid entanglement processing area in Fig. 1 and the relaxation roller that takes it out are V ₂ and V ₃ m/min, respectively, the relaxation rate (%) = Calculate as V ₂ −V ₃ /V ₂ ×100. [Elongation rate during elongation processing] The surface speeds of the relaxation roller that feeds yarn into the elongation processing area and the elongation roller that takes it out in Fig. 1 are respectively
When V ₃ and V ₄ are m/min, the elongation rate (%) is calculated as follows: V ₄ −V ₃ /V ₃ ×100. The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to Examples. Example 1 A triangular cross-section polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a national viscosity of 0.65 and a 145 denier 36 filament was processed by the manufacturing process shown in FIG. The stretching pin 4 was a hot pin at 100° C., and the stretching roller 5 was stretched at a surface speed of 400 m/min and a stretching ratio of 3.0 times. The fluid nozzle 6 for latent bulking was a nozzle having the shape shown in FIG. 2, and the fluid entangling nozzle 9 for entangling was a nozzle having the shape shown in FIG. 3. The latent bulking processing conditions, entangling processing conditions, and elongation processing conditions were carried out under the conditions shown in Table 1, and the results shown in Table 1 were obtained.

【table】

[Table] In Table 1, Experiment No. 1, 5, 6, 10, 11, 14,
Examples 19, 20, and 23 are comparative examples for clarifying the effects of the present invention. Experiments Nos. 1 to 5 confirmed the effect of hot plate temperature in latent bulk processing. In No. 1, the temperature was too low, so the heat treatment effect on the hot plate was insufficient, and the processing state became unstable. Therefore, the crimp development was insufficient and the texture of the fabric was poor. In No. 2, both the processing condition and the texture of the fabric were at a practical level. No. 3 had a stable processing condition, good crimp development, and a fabric with extremely good gloss and texture. No. 4 had a somewhat strong fabric gloss, but it was at a level that would pose no problem for practical use. In No. 5, because the hot plate temperature was too high, fusion occurred between single yarns during heat treatment, resulting in insufficient curling and interlacing, and the fabric was irritated and shiny, and the texture was rough and stiff. It was hot. Experiments Nos. 6 to 10 confirmed the effect of overfeed rate in latent bulk processing. In No. 6, the overfeed rate is too low, so the yarn is uniformly heat-treated on the hot plate, causing almost no crimp.
Therefore, the texture of textiles became rough and stiff. No.7,
No. 8 and No. 9 had good processing conditions, crimp development, and fabric conditions, and No. 8 in particular was extremely good. In No. 10, the overfeed rate was too high and the processing conditions were unstable, making it unsuitable for industrialization. Experiments No. 11 to 13 confirmed the effect of compressed air pressure in entangling. In No. 11, the pressure was too low, so entangling was insufficient and the processing state was somewhat unstable, resulting in poor gloss and texture of the fabric. No. 12 had slightly less entanglement, but the fabric was in good condition. In No. 13, both the processed state and the entangled state were good, and the fabric had very good gloss and texture. Experiments No. 14 to 19 were conducted to confirm the effect of relaxation rate in entangling processing. In No. 14, the relaxation rate was too low, so the entanglement was insufficient, the gloss of the fabric had little scratching effect, and the texture was also insufficient. No. 15 had slightly less entanglement, but the fabric was in good condition. No. 16 and No. 17 were processed in a stable state, and both the entangled state and the fabric state were extremely good. No. 18 had a slightly unstable processing condition, but both the entangling condition and the fabric condition were good. However, No. 19 had an excessively high relaxation rate, so the processing condition was unstable and the interlacing condition was poor. There was large variation in the length direction, and the texture of the fabric was poor. Experiments Nos. 20 to 23 confirmed the effect of elongation rate in elongation processing. No. 20 has a too low elongation rate, so the resulting processed yarn has sagging and coarse loops, has poor unwinding properties from the package, causes frequent yarn breakage during the weaving process, and is particularly good in terms of the gloss of the fabric. It was not possible to obtain a sharp texture, and the texture was also slightly inferior. No. 21 and No. 22 have a good interlacing state, and the fabric has a good luster and a good scratch-like appearance.
The texture was also good. In No. 23, the elongation rate was too high, so the necessary interlaced parts disappeared, and the fabric became insufficiently loose and had a slightly poor texture. In Experiment No. 24, in order to confirm the effect of heat treatment in combination with elongation processing, a hot plate was inserted during the elongation processing process to perform heat treatment, and the other conditions were the same as No. 3. No. 24 had higher entanglement strength at the interlaced portion than No. 3, and therefore a processed yarn with excellent entanglement stability against process tension applied in higher processing steps such as weaving and weaving was obtained. Further, the appearance of crimp was good, and the condition of the obtained fabric was strong and good.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a process diagram showing one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing an example of a preferable air nozzle used in the bulking process of the present invention, and FIG. 3 is a sectional view showing a preferable example of a fluid turbulence nozzle used in the entangling process of the invention. FIG. 4a is a schematic diagram of silk-spun potentially bulky yarn obtained by the method of the present invention. FIG. 4b is a schematic diagram showing a state in which the latent bulky silk spun yarn obtained by the method of the present invention is subjected to relaxation heat treatment to develop crimp. 1: undrawn yarn drum, 2: feed roller,
3: Nip roller, 4: Stretching pin, 5: Stretching roller, 6: Fluid nozzle, 7: Potential bulking hot plate,
8: Feeding roller, 9: Fluid entangling nozzle, 1
0: Yarn path guide, 11: Relaxation roller, 12: Stretching hot plate, 13: Stretching roller, 14: Drive roller, 15: Cheese, 16: Yarn path, 17: Compressed air introduction hole, 18: Compressed air introduction hole, 19 : Thread path, 20: Collision plate.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn 3
The thread is supplied to the fluid turbulence area with an overfeed of ~12%, and while giving irregular vibrations to the yarn,
After performing latent bulk processing by running in contact with a heated body at ℃, the fluid is then supplied to the fluid turbulence area where fluid with a fluid pressure of 3.0 Kg/cm ² G or more is ejected at a relaxation rate of 3 to 18%. A method for producing a silk-spun latent bulky yarn, characterized by subjecting it to an interlacing process and then subjecting it to an elongation process of 1 to 4%.