JPH0214031A - Fasciated spun yarn comprising wool and flax - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject spun yarn having puffy feeling and smart touch by supplying specific mixed fiber bundle of non-shrink treated wool fiber and flax fiber into spinning machine of air-false twisting type constructed of two air jet nozzles. CONSTITUTION:A mixed fiber bundle 2 of wool and flax containing 5-50wt.% flax of total amount (150-240mm maximum fiber length of flax fiber and wool fiber, >=55mm average fiber length by barbe method, scale on the fiber surface is removed remaining a part in specific ratio in at least a part of the wool fiber and number of fibers in cross-section of the mixed yarn are >=50) is passed through draft mechanism to obtain fleece-like state. Then said fleece-like yarn is passed through air jet nozzle 7, opening tube 8, air jet nozzle 9 and draw out roller 10 to make spun yarn Y, thus said spun yarn is wound.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a spun yarn made of wool and hemp, and more particularly to a bound spun yarn made of wool and hemp produced by an air false twist spinning method. be.

(Prior art) After the roving is drafted into a fleece by a drafting device,
This is introduced into an air false twisting device to give a false twist, and while the short fiber bundle located in the center is false twisted, a group of fibers having substantially free ends around the fiber bundle is created. The technology in which the outer unrestricted fiber group is wound around the central fiber bundle during untwisting to form a spun yarn is called the air false-twist spinning method, and is an innovative spinning method that replaces the ring spinning method. It has recently attracted attention as one of the methods, and is disclosed in many documents including Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-31370.

As described in the above-mentioned publication, the spun yarn obtained by this air false twist spinning method has one end of some of the single fibers of the staple fiber bundle locked to the inner layer of the yarn body,
The other end is wrapped around the outer layer of the yarn body, and each wrapped single fiber is oriented in a fixed direction with respect to the length of the yarn, compared to other innovative spinning yarns. It has properties that are relatively similar to those of yarns obtained by conventional ring spinning methods, it is easy to spin as covered yarns or composite yarns (see Japanese Patent Publication No. 7912/1983), and the center of the yarn is Many studies are being conducted to apply it to spinning various fibers because it has advantages such as almost no twisting, high voids, and good permeability to processing liquids.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, as a practical machine for carrying out the air false-twisting spinning method as typified by the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-31370, the "Murata Jet Spinner" manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd. ” (abbreviation MJS) is commercially available, but as stated in the above publication, it was developed mainly for short fibers of 100 tm or less, and is extremely effective for cotton fibers etc. However, there are still many problems to be solved in spinning yarns containing long fibers such as wool.

In other words, wool fibers are composed of fibers with fiber lengths distributed over a wide range from 10 fl to 250 fibers, so wool fibers are used in MJS, which was developed for cotton fibers with short fiber length and relatively high uniformity. Even if it is used as is, good spinning conditions and yarn properties cannot be expected. As an expedient method, a method has been proposed in which wool fibers are cut to resemble the fiber length distribution of cotton fibers and then spun, but this method naturally loses the good feel characteristic of wool, making it undesirable. do not have.

Furthermore, as schematically shown in Figure 1, the yarn obtained by air false twisting has a structure different from that obtained by ring spinning, and has substantially no real twist. Since the outer layer fibers are wrapped around the inner layer fiber bundles that are free from the inner layer fibers, the inner layer fibers are bundled with each other to develop the yarn strength, so when the number of constituent fibers in the cross section of the yarn is the same, It is natural that the yarn strength is lower compared to the above.

In addition, wool fibers have various advantages compared to other natural fibers, such as absorbing and repelling moisture, recovering from wrinkles quickly, being resistant to stains, and having good dyeability.
There is scale that causes a hard texture, which causes diffused reflection, causes loss of luster due to light scattering, and also causes fibers to catch on each other and become felted.

The present invention deals with the various problems mentioned above, and in particular aims at blending wool fibers and hemp fibers, and by adding a shrink-proofing treatment to give the wool fibers a silky appearance, a good spinning condition can be achieved by air false-twisting method. A new spun yarn made from wool that can be produced while maintaining the fluffy texture and silk-like luster unique to wool, and has both the silk-like luster and the suppleness unique to yarns produced by air false-twisting. The purpose is to provide the following.

(Means for solving the problem) That is, the spun yarn of the present invention that meets the above purpose is characterized by being a mixed fiber consisting of wool and hemp, which contains hemp in a proportion of 5 to 50% by weight based on the total amount. A yarn produced by feeding a bundle into an air false twisting type spinning device consisting of two air injection nozzles that create swirling airflows with opposite rotational directions in each nozzle, and spinning the hemp fiber and wool fiber. All wool fibers have a maximum fiber length of 150 to 240 fi, an average fiber length measured by barbé method of 55 nm or more, and at least a portion of the wool fibers has a silk-like luster in which the scale on the fiber surface has been removed leaving a specific proportion. In addition, the number of fibers in the cross section of the blended yarn is at least 50 or more.

Here, in order to obtain the above-mentioned bound spun yarn of the present invention, the combination of wool fibers and hemp fibers having a specific fiber length as described above in a predetermined ratio is carried out when setting it in an air false-twisting type spinning device as described later. This is because by using a hollow roller as a drafting means, high quality yarn can be effectively spun without damaging wool and hemp fibers having long fiber lengths.

In the present invention, if the amount of hemp fiber is less than 5% of the total amount of fibers, the material will lack elasticity and flair, making it unsuitable for the intended spring/summer clothing material. On the other hand, if it exceeds 50%,
This is not preferable because the feel of the wool fibers is affected.

It is important that the wool fiber used in the present invention has a fiber length distribution such that the maximum fiber length is 150 to 240 W, that is, the fiber for worsted spinning, and the average fiber length is 55 W or more as determined by the Perfer method. Fibers shorter than this, such as fibers for woolen spinning, are undesirable because the strength and quality of the resulting yarn is significantly inferior, and the spinning condition is also poor.

This wool fiber is then formed into a sliver together with hemp fiber through a known normal process, and the front roller of the drafting device is rotated so that the directions of rotation that form the pneumatic yarn turning device and the false twisting device are mutually Q. Before being fed to two air injection nozzles in opposite directions and spun, that is, after forming a sliver and before spinning, it is preshrink-proofed using a chlorinated resin method, etc., so that a certain proportion of the surface fiber scale remains. removed.

The specific means for this shrink-proofing process is as follows:
In addition to Publication No. 69, the applicant previously filed a patent application in 1982-24.
There is a method proposed in No. 974, for example, in which a sliver of wool fiber, etc. is sprayed with an aqueous solution containing active chlorine, and this is introduced into a U-shaped tube filled with water, so that the sliver of wool fiber is vertically The chlorinated resin method, which removes scale by chlorinating only the surface of the fibers using capillary action and hydrostatic pressure, is extremely effective when the fibers are immersed in deep water in a state close to that of water.

In this case, when the scale on the surface of the wool fiber is completely removed, the surface of the fiber itself becomes extremely smooth, and although it becomes rich in luster, it does not give the deep luster of silk. It is important that a certain percentage of

On the other hand, the most common hemp fiber mixed with wool fibers is ramie, which has a fiber length distribution roughly similar to the wool fibers with which it is mixed, and which is formed into a continuous sliver by known methods. Provided for the spinning process. The wool fibers are also formed into tops by known methods and provided to the spinning process. Both are set in parallel in the pre-spinning process and blended, formed into rovings, and supplied to the air false twisting type spinning device.

Thus, it is preferable that the single yarn of the spun yarn obtained from the air false-twisting type spinning device has a fiber composition number of 50 or more in the cross section of the yarn, has a thickness of 12 to 60 meters, and is then manufactured using a known method. Depending on the method, a plurality of medium-twisted yarns are combined into a medium twist, and then a plurality of these medium-twisted yarns are combined into a final twist, or a plurality of medium-twisted yarns are directly twisted together to make worsted yarn, hand-knitted yarn, etc. of a desired thickness. . In this case, the number of twisted fibers is preferably about 2 to 20, and the total thread count is preferably about 1 to 30 meters.

Worsted yarns and hand-knitted yarns manufactured in the manner described above are
The smooth feel of the blended hemp fibers and the rough surface condition unique to the yarn obtained by air false twist spinning give it a silky feel, while at the same time it has a silky feel due to the inherent bulkiness of wool and the pre-shrunk process. It has a good appearance, and clothing made using this material has a refreshing feel and is suitable for spring and summer. This can bring about new advances in worsted yarns and hand-knitted yarns, which have traditionally been considered relatively unsuitable for use in this field.

Next, the production of the bound spun yarn according to the present invention will be explained based on an example of the apparatus shown in the drawings.

That is, as shown in FIG. 2, in the production of the spun yarn of the present invention, a roving 2 consisting of a wool fiber bundle of the above-mentioned configuration drawn from a yarn 1 is provided with a pair of bank rollers 3 and an apron 4. The fleece-like material is sequentially passed through a draft mechanism consisting of a pair of middle rollers 5 and a pair of front rollers 6, and then passed through a first air injection nozzle 7, a fibrillating tube 8, a second air injection nozzle 9, The yarn is passed through a pull-out roller 10 into a single yarn Y having the above-described structure, and is wound up as a package 11.

In this case, in order to obtain the yarn of the present invention, since the wool fibers and hemp fibers used include fibers with a long fiber length, the draft roller of the middle roller pair 5 of the draft mechanism 12 shown in FIG. A hollow roller 13 having a structure as shown in FIG. 4 is specially employed and is configured to smoothly draft wool fibers of a specific length.

This hollow roller 13 is manufactured to have a small diameter in the central region of its outer peripheral surface, thereby forming a hollow portion 14 of an appropriate depth. When in use, the apron 4 contacts this hollow portion 14 and rotates. The depth of the hollow part 14 is selected depending on the count of the roving to be supplied,
For thick rovings, it is desirable to make it deeper, for example:
If the weight of the roving is 0°4~2.0g/m, 0.4
~0.8 days is appropriate. The function of this hollow roller 13 is limited when there are fibers in the roving that are longer than the roller gauge set in the draft mechanism (this is always the case when wool fibers are targeted). occur)
However, the purpose is to control the fibers so that they are not cut during drafting and do not disturb the drafting of other fiber groups.

(Function) The bound spun yarn made of hemp and wool fibers produced as described above has the fluffy texture unique to wool as well as the elasticity and charm of hemp fibers, and has excellent shrink-proofing properties and resistance due to shrink-proofing. It has pilling properties, has a string-like luster, and has high color saturation and brightness for the same hue, as well as the strength of the thread.
In terms of elongation, it is comparable to that produced by conventional ring spinning machines, and therefore, when used as worsted yarn or hand-knitted yarn, it is possible to produce a suitable product with a silky feel, bulkiness, and flexibility. Become.

Hereinafter, further specific examples of the spun yarn of the present invention will be described.

(Example) A wool sliver with an average fiber diameter of 21 μm of wool fiber produced through a normal process was subjected to VJ shrinking using a chlorinated resin method, and the weight ratio was 85%. A sliver of ramie fiber (ramie) is blended with 15% of the weight ratio of 0.71 count (meter count,
A roving (the same applies hereafter) was obtained. This was passed through an MJS machine with the configuration shown in Figure 2 to produce a 30 count spun yarn.
The resulting 30 count spun yarn was subjected to double yarn processing in a conventional manner.

The yarn quality of the obtained spun yarn is shown in Table 1 below.

Margin below Table 1 The single yarn strength and elongation in the table are JIS L 1095.
7゜5 Single yarn elongation strength and elongation rate (distance between grips 50 openings using constant speed tension type testing machine, tensile speed 30cm/lll1n)
, 0%, Th1n (-50%), Th1ck
(+50%), Neps (+200%) is JI
SL 10957.20 Thread unevenness Measured using method A and method B.

The roller gauge of the draft device of the MJS machine was set to 103 mm between the front roller and cradle roller, and 107 mm between the cradle roller and bank roller, making the total draft 42.2 times. Further, the groove depth of the hollow roller was 0.6 mm.

The average fiber length of the sliver used was 76.1 mm, the maximum fiber length was 190 mm, and the number of fibers in the yarn was 68.

In addition, the yarn of the present invention had a silk-like luster, which was in good contrast to the conventional yarn, which scatters light and loses its luster due to diffuse reflection.

When a woven fabric was manufactured using this yarn, it had a richer silk-like appearance and feel and had better bulkiness than a fabric made from wool fiber binding spun yarn that was not subjected to preshrunk treatment.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the present invention solves the problem that wool fibers cannot be used as they are, which is a drawback of the air false-twisting spinning method, and the average fiber length and maximum fiber length are 55cm or more, 150 to 240cm. It is made by spinning fibers, including relatively long fibers such as wool and hemp, into a spun yarn with a number of fibers of 50 or more, and it is possible to obtain the strength and uniformity required for a spun yarn, and also to form a spun yarn. The wool fibers are pre-shrunk,
It removes some of the surface scale and gives it a silk-like luster, which improves shrinkage, dullness, and hard texture, and gives it a bulky feel and wonderful luster, while also being blended with linen to make it softer and more seductive. It has a refreshing feel that is perfect for spring and summer, and is expected to have a significant effect not only in promoting the practical use of the air false-twisting spinning method but also in its widespread use.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the shape and structure of the single yarn used in the present invention, and Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the air false twisting spinning device used to produce the yarn shown in Figure 1. 3 is a side view, FIG. 3 is a perspective view showing the main parts of the apparatus shown in FIG. 2, and FIG. 4 is a plan view showing the shape of the hollow roller. (1)...Cans, (2)...Roving, (3)...
・Back roller pair, (4)...Apron, (5)...Middle roller pair, 00)...Pull-out roller, 0υ...Package, (B)...Draft mechanism, Q31... Hollow roller, Q41... Hollow part. Patent applicant Kanebo Co., Ltd.)

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Mixed fiber bundles made of wool and hemp containing hemp at a ratio of 5 to 50% by weight based on the total amount are fed from two air injection nozzles that create swirling airflows with opposite rotational directions in each nozzle. The yarn is supplied to an air false-twisting spinning device and spun, wherein the hemp fiber and wool fiber each have a maximum fiber length of 150 to 240 mm, an average fiber length by barbé method of 55 mm or more, and Wool characterized in that at least a part of the fibers has a silk-like luster by removing scale on the fiber surface leaving a certain proportion, and the number of fibers in the cross section of the blended yarn is at least 50 or more. A bound spun yarn made of hemp and hemp.