JPH02210065A - Production of polyester woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a woven fabric having excellent drape property, anti-drape stiffness and stiffness by weaving a polyester based flat yarn having specific physical properties to the woven fabric having a specific weight or below, then increasing the weight without producing crease, thermally setting the woven fabric and then decreasing the weight. CONSTITUTION:A polyester based flat yarn having 3-15% boiled water shrinkage or 5-20% dry heat shrinkage at 180 deg.C is woven to a thin woven fabric having <=100g/m<2> weight of gray fabric and then the weight of the woven fabric is increased by 15-40% in spread state without producing crease and the woven fabric is then thermally set and the weight of the fabric is decreased by 10-30%, e.g. by alkali weight-reducing treatment to provide the high-grade polyester woven fabric having soft handle and smooth surface slippery and excellent drape property, anti-drape stiffness and stiffness by synergistic effect. The resultant woven fabric is advantageously used especially as woven fabric for lining.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric that is flexible and has high slippage. More specifically, the present invention provides a method for producing a polyester fabric that is particularly suitable as a lining fabric, which is a thin fabric that requires excellent drapability, tension, dust resistance, and slip properties.

[Prior Art] Traditionally, silk, rayon, acetate, cupro, etc. have been used as high-quality linings in the field of thin fabrics that require a supple texture and smooth surface sliding, and synthetic fibers, especially polyester The reality is that fibers are not used much in the above-mentioned high-grade lining field.

However, attempts have been made to obtain thin polyester fabrics with high drape properties, such as boiling water shrinkage of 20 to 50.
Attempts have been made to use high-shrinkage yarns of 1.5% to shrink the chain yarns in the dyeing process to relax the fabric structure, and to apply alkali weight loss processing.

In addition, in order to increase the weave crimp of thin polyester fabrics and obtain a high drape, a device called a washer is used, for example, to loosen and contract while kneading the thin polyester fabric in a near-free state in high-temperature hot water. Attempts have been made to fold shakumono fabrics and bind them with thread, and to use a jet dyeing machine to relax and contract them in high-temperature hot water. Furthermore, as an alternative to such relaxation and shrinkage using hot water, attempts have been made to shrink using dry heat using, for example, a tenter or a baking machine.

[Problems to be solved by the invention] However, in the method using high shrinkage yarn, the thickness of the fabric increases due to the densification of the fibers and woven structure, the initial tensile resistance is low, and the shape stability such as knee pull-out and elbow pull-out occurs. In addition, wrinkles occur in the fabric, and even if you try to remove the wrinkles by stretching or the like in a later process, once the wrinkles have occurred, it is difficult to remove, and the fabric becomes worthless.

Attempts have also been made to create voids between the fibers by applying alkali weight reduction to improve drapability, but although a soft fabric is obtained, it lacks tension and stiffness.
It could not match the supple texture and surface smoothness of cupro, rayon, acetate, and silk thin fabrics.

In addition, the method using a washer shown in Fig. 11, which involves relaxing and shrinking while being rubbed in a nearly free state in high-temperature hot water in a batch method, yields an almost ideal relaxation process, but thin, flat fabrics do not wrinkle significantly. occurs, and the product value is lost.

In addition, in the method shown in Figure 12 in which the fabric is relaxed and contracted in high-temperature hot water using a jet dyeing machine, the fabric is transported under tension in a rope-like manner by the hot water jet ejected from a tubular nozzle. The woven fabric has the disadvantage that wrinkles occur when it is stretched in the form of a rope, and that it cannot sufficiently relax and contract in the longitudinal direction.

Furthermore, in the dry heat shrinkage treatment method using a tenter as shown in Fig. 13 or a baking machine as shown in Fig. 14 instead of relaxation shrinkage using hot water, the vertical feeding of the fabric is insufficient and only a paper-like texture is obtained. There were no drawbacks.

In view of the prior art, the present invention provides a method for producing a thin polyester fabric with extremely high commercial value, which has a supple texture and surface slip that could not be achieved with conventional thin polyester fabrics, and is wrinkle-free. It is.

[Means for Solving the Problems] In order to achieve the object, the present invention employs the following means. That is, a woven fabric with a greige basis weight of 100 g/rd or less is woven from a polyester flat yarn having a drip water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% at 180°C, and then wrinkles are generated in the woven fabric. Increase the eye weight to 15~ without letting it go.
This is a method for producing a polyester fabric, which is characterized by increasing the fabric weight by 40%, followed by continuous heat setting, and then reducing the basis weight by 10 to 30%.

The method of the present invention will be explained in more detail.

The polyester in the present invention includes polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate and polytetramethylene terephthalate, and copolymers thereof. In addition, polyalkylene ether,
Block polyether amide, antistatic properties such as conductive carbon black, flame retardants such as organic bromine compounds and organic phosphorous compounds, and known titanium oxide, kaolinite, heat resistant agents,
Those containing additives such as light stabilizers are also included.

Further, as long as the main component is a polyester polymer, the present invention also includes composite fibers made of two or more types of fiber-forming polymers, various deformed cross-section yarns, and hollow fibers.

In the present invention, it is essential to use filament flat yarns in order to obtain a thin fabric with supple surface sliding. Examples of such flat yarns include untwisted raw silk and raw silk that has been twisted to an extent that does not produce grain. Crimped yarns, bulky textured yarns, and differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns due to temporary twisting, rubbing, heat treatment, etc. increase the coefficient of sliding friction.
Not preferred for the present invention.

In the present invention, the polyester flat yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15%, preferably 5 to 10%, or a dry heat shrinkage rate at 180°C of 5 to 20%, preferably 10 to 18%. Apply things selectively.

In other words, yarns with a dripping water shrinkage rate of over 15% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of over 20% tend to have thicker fabrics due to the densification of the fibers and weave structure, and tend to wrinkle during relaxation shrinkage treatment, resulting in a decrease in commercial value. I can't get certain things.

In addition, raw yarn that exhibits high shrinkage behavior during processing also has a low initial tensile resistance (less than 30 g/d), and when a portion of the fabric is pulled, that portion is fully stretched and remains as a strain that cannot be recovered. This results in a lack of morphological stability, such as so-called knee-dropping or elbow-dropping.

On the other hand, yarns with a flood shrinkage rate of less than 3% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of less than 5% lack the relaxation and contraction force to increase weaving crimp and interfiber voids, and have a high drape. There are disadvantages that cannot be obtained.

The woven fabric referred to in the present invention includes plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and variations thereof, and particularly the plain weave achieves excellent effects.

An important requirement for such textiles is the greige basis weight. In other words, gray fabric weight 100g/n? Below, preferably 30~
To provide a thin fabric with excellent bog/rd drape and supple surface touch.

In terms of the thickness of the thin fabric referred to herein, the effect of the present invention is clearly exhibited when the thickness of the product is preferably about 0.2 mm or less, particularly preferably around the 0°1 mark.

The gray fabric woven as described above is subjected to area shrinkage in the dyeing process in the form of an expanded cloth to once increase the basis weight by 15 to 40%, preferably by 25 to 35%.

In this case, it is preferable to set the average shrinkage rate in the weft and weft directions to 7 to 19%. More preferably, the warp shrinkage and the linear shrinkage are similar, or if the warp shrinkage is set to a large value, a more supple texture and good surface slip can be obtained.

In such area shrinkage, it is necessary to apply the kneading in a free state as much as possible, and to perform it in a stretched state to avoid wrinkles, and to obtain the target relaxation shrinkage rate, especially a sufficient shrinkage rate in the warp direction, and to avoid processing wrinkles. It is important to avoid this in order to stably achieve the effects of the present invention.

Such area shrinking means may be any method that applies a kneading action to the woven fabric in a continuously spread state in a near-free state, that is, actively creates an environment in which the woven threads of the woven fabric can move freely while the woven fabric remains spread. , Shrinkage processing means is applied which can apply a kneading action such as a fluid impact action, a vibration action, a light squeezing action, or a combination of these actions in the form of a spread cloth.

As long as the means has such a function, hot water treatment, steam treatment, dry heat treatment, solvent treatment, and combinations thereof can be employed.

Specific examples of such hot water treatment and steam treatment include:
Examples include the devices shown in FIGS. 1 to 10,
You are not limited to these devices.

Below, these devices will be briefly explained.

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a hot water relaxer. A continuous spread fabric 1 is applied with hot water 2 in the form of a jet stream (liquid flow impact effect) from the front and back sides of the fabric in hot water, and is moved through a treatment tank 3 while being rubbed under no tension. It is something.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a relaxer using hot air beating. The continuously spread fabric 1 is exposed to powerful high-temperature air jets (
Airflow shock effect) 5 is blown onto the body, causing it to relax and contract without tension.

Figure 3 shows the vibration relaxer and the fabric 1.
is conveyed while receiving jet steam (airflow impact effect) 6 and being vibrated by an inclined high-speed vibrating bed 7.

FIG. 4 shows a combination of a wet relaxer and a vibrating relaxer, in which the fabric 1 is kneaded by the liquid flow associated with the beating 8, and then dried and relaxed while being subjected to vibrations by the vibration conveyor 9. Ru.

Fig. 5 shows a kind of hot water relaxer, in which the fabric 1 is finely divided laterally and moved in hot water in one direction while being massaged by the liquid flow caused by the vertical movement of the alternately inclined bed 1o.

FIG. 6 is also a type of hot water relaxer, and in this system, the fabric 1 is moved through hot water by a fabric feed roll 12 while being rubbed by the vibration of a beating bar 11.

FIG. 7 is also a type of hot water relaxer, and this method transports the fabric 1 while giving a kneading effect with the water flow generated by reciprocating a triangular protruding basket 13 in hot water. .

FIG. 8 shows a timing washer, and between a conveyor 14 having protrusions and a perforated plate basket 15 that moves up and down, the fabric 1 moves in hot water while being rubbed by a liquid flow.

FIG. 9 shows a vibro-relaxer, in which the fabric 1 conveyed between a runner 17 rotating at high speed in a cage 16 and a porous basket 18 is subjected to a kneading action by the water flow of the runner 17.

FIG. 10 also shows a type of hot water relaxer, in which the fabric 1 is conveyed while being massaged by the liquid flow between the reciprocating rotor 19 and the projections 20 of the bed.

The apparatus shown in FIGS. 1 to 10 above can apply a kneading action to the woven fabric in a continuous spread state and in a free state, and can positively create an environment in which the woven threads can move freely. These devices are particularly characterized in that they are devices that can provide kneading effects such as fluid impact effects, vibration effects, light squeezing effects, and combinations thereof.

In order to obtain high drapability, it is preferable to perform desizing and scouring simultaneously with shrinkage while applying the above-mentioned kneading action in a free state in hot water. Next, it is advisable to perform free shrinkage if necessary. As a device for this purpose, the device examples described above can be combined as appropriate.

In such a treatment for increasing the basis weight, it is better to increase the basis weight of the gray fabric by applying moist heat or hot water first in terms of the effects of the present invention, rather than suddenly increasing the basis weight of the gray fabric by dry heat shrinkage treatment or the like. Of course, carrying out the entire process of increasing the basis weight using moist heat or hot water provides the most excellent effect of the present invention.

Therefore, when applying the above-mentioned various devices for increasing the basis weight, it is preferable to select an appropriate one according to the desired effect.

Next, 11th to 1st which cannot be applied to the area weight increasing treatment of the present invention
The operation and effect of the example of the device shown in FIG. 4 will be briefly explained below.

Figure 11 shows a rotary washer (batch type).
1, it is rubbed in hot water. According to this device, strong wrinkles occur in the fabric 1 at the creases of the fabric 1.

FIG. 12 shows a rope-like jet dyeing machine, in which the fabric 1 is circulated through the dyeing machine by the action of a hot water jet nozzle 22. In this device, the fabric 1 becomes rope-like at the nozzle 22 and is strongly pulled (tensioned) in the warp direction, resulting in severe processing wrinkles.

FIG. 13 shows a heat setter called a pin tenter, in which the fabric 1 is fixed to pins 23 and placed in a dry heat treatment zone 24.
being transported inside. In this device, the fabric 1 is processed under tension, and cannot be brought into a free state, nor can an environment in which the yarns move freely be created. This device is used to dry the fabric 1, hard finish it, and heat set it.

FIG. 14 shows a roller type heat treatment device called a baking machine, in which the fabric 1 is conveyed through dry hot air by upper and lower guide rolls 25 and baked. This device is also processed under approximately the same tension as the device shown in Fig. 13, except that it is not fixed with pins, and is applied to similar purposes.

The devices shown in FIGS. 11 to 14 cannot make the woven fabric free and cannot create an environment in which the yarns can move freely. In other words, this device is unable to apply a kneading action to the woven fabric in a continuously spread state in a near-free state, and cannot create an environment in which the woven threads can move freely.

In the present invention, after the fabric weight increasing treatment, the form of the formed woven crimp is fixed by heat setting. The process characteristic of the present invention is that the treatment for increasing the basis weight and the heat setting are carried out continuously in a spread-like manner without wrinkles.

The heat setting step of the present invention is preferably carried out at a dry heating temperature of 200 DEG C. or lower, particularly preferably 180 DEG to 190 DEG C., so that the weave crimp does not disappear.

After heat setting, the basis weight once increased in the previous step is reduced within a range of 10 to 30%, preferably 15 to 25%. This step may be continuous or discontinuous with the previous step.

Here, if the area weight reduction rate is less than 10%, the drapability will be insufficient, and if it exceeds 30%, the fabric will have a bulky feel, and the tear strength will also decrease significantly.

The basis weight reduction rate here refers to the degree of decrease in the fabric weight after the fabric weight increasing treatment and heat setting in the previous step.

As this treatment for reducing the fabric weight, an alkali weight reduction treatment which is usually carried out on polyester fabrics is preferable. That is,
According to this method, only the basis weight can be reduced without changing the area of the fabric.

After the fabric weight reduction treatment, processing such as dyeing is performed if necessary, and then a cationic or silicone-based smoothing agent is applied. This improves the smoothness of the fabric surface. Further, in order to improve the gloss, smoothness, and feel of the surface of the fabric, it may be appropriately calendered.

The present invention provides a thin fabric with a low basis weight of 100 g/rrr or less made of polyester flat yarn having a flood shrinkage rate of 3 to 15% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% in a specific range,
By combining the process of shrinking the area of the thin fabric in an expanded form without causing wrinkles and increasing the basis weight, and the subsequent process of decreasing the basis weight, by subtly synergizing these two processes,
For the first time, it was possible to obtain a high-grade, high-quality thin fabric with a supple texture and smooth surface sliding. This thin fabric has properties at a level that cannot be obtained by conventional fabrics using high shrinkage yarns or by simple weight reduction treatments.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further explained by examples.

[Example] The evaluation criteria for the numerical values and product characteristics in the examples were as follows.

[Flood shrinkage rate]: Evaluated by the degree of shrinkage after treatment with hot water at 100°C for 20 minutes.

[Dry heat shrinkage rate]: Evaluated by the degree of shrinkage under a load of 2 cm/d at a temperature of 180° C. for 3 minutes.

[Basic weight increase rate] Evaluation was made based on the degree to which the weight of a certain area increased with respect to the gray fabric due to the second fabric weight increasing treatment.

[Basic weight reduction rate: Evaluated by the degree to which the weight of a certain area decreased due to the fabric weight reduction treatment compared to before the fabric weight reduction treatment.

[Thickness]: The thickness of the fabric was in accordance with JIS L-1096.

[Drapability, surface touch]: Judged by sensory evaluation by handling.

Examples 1 to 4, Comparative Examples 1 to 7 Polyester filament flat yarn 75D-36fil, whose flood shrinkage rate is shown in Table 1, was used for the warp and weft, and plain woven fabric (warp density 90 yarns/in, weft density 80 yarns/in)
, gray fabric weight 53.7g/bo) and twill fabric (warp density 118 strands/in, weft density 88 strands/in).

A gray fabric with a basis weight of 62.8i10f was woven.

Next, the woven fabric was processed by continuously passing it through the equipment shown in the column "Equipment used for increasing fabric weight and heat setting" in Table 1, starting from the top. That is, after carrying out the fabric weight increasing treatment, heat setting was carried out at 180°C. Next, the fabric weight was reduced by an alkali reduction treatment using caustic soda having the values shown in Table 1.

Thereafter, dyeing was carried out at 130°C and a cationic softener was applied.

Table 1 shows the drape properties and surface touch of the fabrics obtained by this method.

As is clear from Table 1, the fabrics of Examples 1 to 4 are thin fabrics with higher drape properties and a supple surface touch compared to the fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 to 7, and are also suitable as linings. there were.

[Effects of the Invention] The present invention produces a fabric with high commercial value, which has a supple texture and smooth surface sliding that is reminiscent of a luxury product, and is free from defects such as wrinkles, from a thin fabric using polyester filament flat yarn. can be provided stably. Further, according to the present invention, it has the characteristics of having excellent adhesion to the outer material, flexibility, and hem control properties, and has good wrinkle resistance during wear, excellent abrasion resistance, and dimensional change due to washing. It is possible to provide a thin polyester fabric with little change in appearance, that is, comparable to conventional high-grade linings made of silk, rayon, acetate, and cupro.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

1 to 10 are schematic diagrams showing an example of an apparatus for increasing the fabric weight in a spread-like manner, which is applied to the fabric weight increasing process of the present invention. Figures 1, 5 to 7, and 10 show various hot water relaxers, Figure 2 shows a relaxer using hot air beating, Figure 3 shows a vibration relaxer, Figure 4 shows a combination device of a wet relaxer and a vibration relaxer, and Figure 4 shows a device combining a wet relaxer and a vibration relaxer. Figure 8 shows a timing washer, and Figure 9 shows a vibro relaxer. 11 to 14 are schematic diagrams showing examples of devices that cannot be applied to the fabric weight increasing process of the present invention. FIG. 11 shows a rotary washer, FIG. 12 shows a rope jet dyeing machine, FIG. 13 shows a pin tenter, and FIG. 14 shows a baking machine. In the figure 1: Fabric 2: Hot water jet flow 3: Treatment tank 4: Net conveyor 5: Air jet
6: Injected steam 7: High-speed vibrating bed 8: Beating 9: Vibration conveyor 10: Inclined bed 11: Beating bar 12: Fabric feed roll 13: Projection basket 14: Projection conveyor 15: Perforated plate basket 16: Cage 17:
Runner 18: Porous basket 19: Reciprocating rotor 20: Protrusion 21: Forward/reverse rotor 22: Hot water injection nozzle 23: Pin 24: Dry heat treatment zone 25 Ni guide roll 26: Dry heat hot air

Claims (1)

[Claims] Weaving a fabric with a greige basis weight of 100 g/m^2 or less from a polyester flat yarn having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 3 to 15% or a dry heat shrinkage rate of 5 to 20% at 180°C,
Next, the fabric weight is reduced to 1 without causing wrinkles in the fabric.
A method for producing a polyester fabric, which comprises increasing the fabric weight by 5 to 40%, followed by continuous heat setting, and then reducing the basis weight by 10 to 30%.