JPH02216239A - Weaving method in fluid-jetting weaving machine - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To make weft-stretchable woven fabrics and 2-way woven fabrics by mean of a fluid-jetting type weaving machine by sizing a covering yarn containing a polyurethane fiber as a core yarn under specific conditions and inserting the sized yarn as a weft. CONSTITUTION:A highly shrinkable covering yarn containing a polyurethane fiber as a core yarn is sized with a mixed sizing agent containing partially saponified polyvinyl acetate and an ammonium salt of acrylic acid-acrylate copolymer (the mixing ratio is 1/4 to 2/3) so that the sizing pick up is adjusted to 4-10%, then the yarn is inserted as a weft. A stretch woven fabric having almost equal quality to rapier woven fabric can be produced by means of a fluid-jetting type weaving machine.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION <Industrial Application Field> The present invention relates to a weaving method using a fluid jet type textile machine. In particular, the present invention relates to a method of weaving stretch fabrics using highly elastic material yarns as weft yarns.

<Conventional technology> Two methods using covering yarn using polyurethane fiber as the core yarn and covering general synthetic fiber multifilament yarn.
Weaving of way and weft stretch fabrics is conventionally carried out on rapier looms.

Since this is a covering yarn with polyurethane fiber as the core yarn, it has high elasticity, and depending on the method of unwinding and weft insertion of the weft yarn, the elongation recovery state of the weft yarn may differ in the width direction of the fabric. There will be a difference in quality. For example, shuttle looms use weft unwinding tension unevenness, water jet loom (hereinafter referred to as WJL), air jet loom (hereinafter referred to as AJ
Since the tip of the weft thread (referred to as L) is not known, quality differences occur in the direction of the fabric when the weft thread is in a state of recovery from elongation.

On the other hand, in the weft unwinding method of the rapier loom, a yarn accumulator can be used to equalize fluctuations in the unwinding tension from the weft yarn feeder. In addition, since the mechanism is used for inserting the weft by grasping the tip of the weft, the elongation state of the weft is uniform in the direction of force on the fabric. As a result of these effects, the quality of the stretch fabric produced by the rapier loom is uniform in the width direction of the fabric and is of good quality.

However, since the loom rotation speed of the rapier loom is low, the productivity is lower than that of a fluid jet loom, that is, AJL, and the weaving cost is high. This is one of the reasons why stretch fabrics are less cost competitive than knitted fabrics, and reducing weaving costs is an issue for stretch fabrics.

<Problems to be solved by the invention> Compared to rapier looms, WJL and mills operate at a higher loom rotation speed (can be operated at a set speed) and have lower weaving costs. W of thread
In the case of JL and AJL weaving, the tips of the weft threads are not held until just before weft insertion and beating, so the weft threads are in an elongated state while being strongly affected by the jet pressure of water and air.
When the influence of the injection pressure decreases, the inherent elongation recovery property of the weft yarns develops, causing sagging in the weft yarns, which are then beaten with a reed, resulting in unevenness in quality and quality in the direction of the fabric.

The object of the present invention is to provide a fluid jet loom that eliminates the problems of the conventional method, maintains the quality and quality of stretch fabrics comparable to those of rapier woven materials, and reduces weaving costs.
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a weaving method based on 几 and AJL.

Means for Solving the Problems> The present invention provides a covering system having polyurethane fiber as a core yarn, a sizing agent made of a partially saponified polyvinyl acetate, and an ammonium salt of an acrylic acid-acrylic acid ester copolymer. A fluid jet method characterized by weaving using a sizing yarn with a sizing agent having a weight ratio of 1:4 to 2:3 and a sizing rate of 4 to 10% as a weft thread. This is a weaving method using a pattern loom.

When weaving a stretch fabric using a polyurethane fiber as a core yarn and a synthetic fiber multifilament-based covering yarn as a weft yarn, in preparing the weft yarn, a PVA-based sizing agent and an acrylic acid-acrylic acid A sizing agent made of ester copolymer ammonium salt (hereinafter referred to as acrylic sizing agent) is mixed, and the mixing ratio is 1.
It is characterized by weaving using a sizing yarn with a sizing agent in the range of 4 to 2; 3 and a sizing rate of 4 to 10% for -JL and A weft yarns. It is a weaving method.

The polyurethane fiber used in the present invention is 20 to 210 d,
Preferably, it is a yarn of 20 to 140 d, and this yarn is used as a core yarn to perform covering. The covering yarn is synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk or processed yarn with a yarn size of 20 to 210.
d Preferably 20 to 140 d of yarn is covered.

The covering form is a single covered yarn in which synthetic fiber multifilament raw silk and processed yarn are covered in a double layer, and a double covered yarn in which the same yarn is covered in a double layer.

The present invention is a weft preparation method and a weaving method for weaving one-way stretch fabrics and two-way stretch fabrics using these single covered yarns and double covered yarns as weft yarns.

The PVA-based sizing agent used in the present invention is a sizing agent made of partially saponified polyvinyl acetate, with a degree of saponification of 86 to 90%, a degree of polymerization of 5 to 20, preferably a degree of saponification of 87 to 88%,
It is a sizing agent with a degree of polymerization of 5 to IO.

Further, as the sizing agent made of an acrylic acid-acrylic ester copolymer ammonium salt used in the present invention, a water-soluble acrylic ester copolymer is suitably used.

The water-soluble acrylic ester copolymer is usually a partial ester and has a carboxyl group. This carboxyl group is used after being neutralized with an appropriate salt, preferably an alkali metal salt, an ammonium salt, or the like. By using a mixture of the PVA type adhesive and the acrylic adhesive, the hygroscopicity of the adhesive type is suppressed and weavability is improved. There is a strong correlation between the mixing ratio of these two sizing agents and the physical properties and weavability of the sized yarn, as well as the quality of the processed fabric. The quality is good.

On the other hand, when the proportion of PVA-based sizing agent is high, the sizing system has high hygroscopicity, so after sizing, the sizing yarn absorbs moisture over time, which tends to cause cracking during weaving, resulting in poor weavability and fabric The quality becomes poor.

On the other hand, if the mixing ratio of the acrylic sizing agent is more than 1:4, the scouring property in the scouring process will be poor and high temperature scouring will be required, resulting in grains on the fabric and poor quality fabric. . Moreover, the adhesive adhesion rate is in the range of 4 to 10%, and the weavability is good. On the other hand, if the glue adhesion rate is 4% or less, the recovery fixation by the glue is weak, and yarn sagging is likely to occur, resulting in poor weavability and fabric quality. Furthermore, if the glue adhesion rate is 10% or more, high-temperature scouring is required, and grains appear on the fabric, resulting in a fabric of poor quality.

The present invention is particularly effective when the loom type is Nissan LL-41 or LL-51, which has a pool pipe type weft storage system. That is, if the weft yarns are not sized, creases and knots will occur in the weft yarns during storage, and these will continue to be beaten, resulting in poor weavability and quality. On the other hand, if the sized yarn according to the present invention is weft-beated, no creases or knots will occur during storage, resulting in good weavability and quality.

In addition, the weft storage method is the drum type Nissan LW-43゜5
3. With Tsudakoma ZW-1oo, 200.303, etc., the weft yarns are stored in a tensioned state, so even if the weft yarns are not glued, creases and knots do not occur, but there are poor weaving properties and wefts on the anti-nozzle part. There was sagging and the quality was poor. Therefore, according to the present invention, results with good weavability and quality can be obtained.

On the other hand, the same is true for AJL, including the air guide type Nissan LA-21 and 41, and the sub-nozzle type Tsudakoma ZA-1.
00 and 200, if the weft sizing yarn of the present invention is used, good results can be obtained without problems such as weavability, chattering, knots, and weft sagging on the side opposite to the nozzle.

<Examples> The present invention will be explained in more detail by Examples below.
The evaluation methods for various characteristic values of the examples are as follows.

(Size adhesion rate %) The absolute dry weight of the sized yarn after sizing is 10, and the sized yarn is treated with Na0113 g/i, surfactant (Kao soap,
Score T: J-/L/) A boiling treatment is performed with a 5 g/l aqueous solution to remove the size. The glue adhesion rate (χ), which is defined as the absolute dry weight of the thread after removing the glue, is shown below.

l (Weaving performance) The number of stops of m looms during weaving using W looms is investigated by cause of stoppages, and calculated by converting it into the number of stops per loom per day.

Examples The fiber threads used in the examples are FTY yarns with polyurethane fibers 20d as core threads and nylon-66 30d/10f coverings.This threads are used as weft threads to weave stretch taffeta. The quality and quality of the processed fabric were evaluated.

The sizing agent is prepared by mixing PVA-based sizing agent and acrylic sizing agent in the proportions shown in Table 2, adding oil and anti-static agent in the proportions shown in Table 1, and using a sizing machine (to catch water with Using a sizing machine) at a yarn speed of 250 m/min and a drying temperature of 7°C, sizing was carried out using the sizing oil type and concentration shown in Table 1, and rolled up into a cheese shape.

Next, the sized yarn rolled up into the cheese shape was used as a weft to weave stretch taffeta using Tsudakoma WJL ZW-100-170. The textile design and weaving conditions of this weft stretch taffeta are shown in Table 3.

The fabricated gray fabric was dyed and the weft quality and grain of the fabric was evaluated. For each size concentration type, the glue adhesion rate, weavability, weft quality and texture were evaluated and shown in Table 2.

As shown in Table 2, in the examples of the present invention, the mixing ratio of PVA-based glue and acrylic glue was 1=4 to 2:3, and the glue adhesion rate was within the range of 4-10%. Nα1,2,
The weavability and weft quality of the processed fabric of Nos. 3 and 4.5 were good, and a thin weft stretch fabric with no grain was completed.

Table 1 Table 1 On the other hand, the comparative example Nα2 condition shown in Table 2 with a high acrylic sizing agent ratio had good weaving properties, but due to poor desizing properties during scouring in the dyeing process, high temperature As a result of the scouring, grains appeared, which remained on the processed fabric, resulting in poor quality fabrics.

Comparative Example Nα4.5 condition with a high PVA-based sizing agent ratio had a problem in industrialization due to poor weavability due to the high hygroscopicity of the sized yarn.

Comparative example Na 1 condition has a low adhesive adhesion rate, so
The weaving properties were poor because the chattering, which is a characteristic of the covering yarn, could not be suppressed, and the defect of weft sagging frequently occurred on the side opposite to the nozzle on the gray and processed fabrics, resulting in poor quality.

In addition, the comparative example Nα3 condition with a high glue adhesion rate is - The high adhesion rate of this sizing machine is due to poor glue permeability and glue adhering to the thread surface in a templar shape, which makes it difficult to remove the glue during weaving. Significantly, glue adhered and accumulated on the guides and length-measuring portions of the weft, increasing the unwinding tension of the weft threads and causing poor weaving properties due to large variations in the length-measuring amount.

Furthermore, as shown in Comparative Example Nα6, if no glue is applied to the FTY of the weft yarns and weaving is carried out as it is in the -north direction, the yarns on the side opposite to the nozzle will shrink under the same conditions as in the pasted system, resulting in a weft-like shape. The weft yarn does not reach the waste yarn garami part of -JL, and it is necessary to increase the weft length measurement amount. Even if the weft yarn length measurement was increased, the weft yarn sagging on the side opposite to the nozzle could not be resolved, resulting in poor quality.

<Effects of the Invention> According to the present invention, a weft stretch fabric and a two-way (
way) It is possible to weave textiles with a fluid jet loom, and it is possible to obtain textiles of good quality and at low cost.

Junto Tokihide Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Claims] The weight ratio of a sizing agent made of a partially saponified product of polyvinyl acetate and an ammonium salt of an acrylic acid-acrylic acid ester copolymer to a covering yarn having a polyurethane fiber as a core yarn is in the range of 1:4 to 2:3. A weaving method using a fluid-jet loom, characterized in that weaving is carried out using a sizing yarn with a sizing agent of 4 to 10%, using a sizing yarn as a weft.