JPH0229780B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a special texture strongly twisted fabric having a novel texture, and more specifically to a yarn in which a single filament is a thermoplastic multifilament having a radial multilobed cross section and is highly twisted. The present invention relates to a method of producing a highly twisted fabric using the method. Traditionally, high-twist fabrics using thermoplastic multifilament such as crepe, jersey, and chiffon have been produced in large quantities with textured textures (small irregularities) on the surface, and are used for women's outerwear, such as blouses and dresses. It is also widely used for dresses, shirts, etc. However, in order to obtain a fabric with good shear, it is necessary to twist the thermoplastic multifilament with a twist angle of about 40° or more, which increases the cost of twisting. It had some disadvantages, such as distortion and reduced strength, and poor bulkiness. The present inventors have arrived at the present invention as a result of intensive research to improve these conventional drawbacks.The purpose of the present invention is to reduce the manufacturing cost and reduce the amount of filament generated during high twisting. To provide a method for producing a highly twisted fabric with a special texture, which can prevent a decrease in strength and can obtain a highly twisted fabric having excellent linen-like smoothness and bulkiness. That is, the present invention provides a special irregular cross section in which the cross-sectional shape of the single filament is composed of at least one type selected from 3 to 8 radial lobes, and at least two lobes have a length β and a radius γ of the central core. The ratio β/γ
is 1.85 to 6.5, and the fineness of the single filament is 2.2 to 15 deniers.The twist angle calculated by the following formula (1) is 25 degrees to
The gist of this invention is a method for producing a highly twisted fabric with a special texture, which is characterized by weaving using highly twisted yarn obtained by twisting the yarn to an angle of 38°. However, θ: twist angle (°) D: fineness (denier) of multifilament T: number of twists (T/M) The present invention will be described in detail below. First, terms used in the present invention will be explained.
As a representative example, a single filament having a four-lobed cross-section will be described, but the shapes of other three- to eight-lobed cross sections are defined in the same manner, so the explanation will be omitted. FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the cross-sectional shape of a single filament constituting a multifilament used in the present invention. In Fig. 1-1, recesses a,
Draw an inscribed circle passing through any three points b, c, and d, and call the largest inscribed circle 0". The protrusion-like pieces Y ₁ , Y ₂ , Y ₃ , Y ₄ are called "lobes", and the points where the line drawn from the center point O toward the tip of the leaf intersects the center of the tip of the leaf are y ₁ , y ₂ , y ₃ ,y ₄ ,
Lines Oy ₁ , Oy ₂ , connecting the center point O and y ₁ , y 2 _, y ₃ , y ₄ ,
Oy ₃ and Oy ₄ are referred to as "leaf length β". Figure 1 1-1
Although the cross-sectional shape of the single filament shown in FIG. 1 is approximately symmetrical, the cross-sectional shape of the single filament in the example shown in FIG. The thermoplastic multifilament used in the present invention is a single filament whose constituent single filament is a filament having at least one type of specially deformed cross section selected from among three to eight radial cross-sectional shapes.
Examples of the thermoplastic multifilament include polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyethylene oxybenzoate, nylon 6, and nylon.
66, nylon 6-10, nylon 6-12, nylon
Examples include multifilaments made of polyamides such as 11 and nylon 12, polyvinyl compounds such as polyvinyl alcohol and polyacrylonitrile, polyolefins such as polyethylene and polypropylene, and polymers having fiber-forming ability such as fiber-forming polyethers. In the present invention, in order to obtain a fabric with a unique hemp-like texture, the cross-sectional shape of the single filament must have leaves extending radially from the center, and the number of leaves must be 3 to 8. be. For other cross-sectional shapes such as circular, rod-shaped, and nine or more leaves, twisting is required.
Even if heat setting is performed, the deformation of the cross section and the unevenness of the surface are small, and a sufficient effect cannot be expected. As long as the number of leaves of the single filament is 3 to 8, the angles between the leaves do not necessarily need to be equally distributed, and the leaves may have different lengths, and the center may be hollow. It's okay to be. Alternatively, a mixture of two or more types of single filaments having different numbers of leaves may be used. Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the single filament, the ratio β/γ of the leaf length β to the radius γ of the central core of at least two of each leaf must be in the range of 1.85 to 6.5.
If β/γ is less than 1.85, the cross-sectional shape of the single filament will be close to circular, and a fabric with a unique texture with linen-like texture cannot be expected. On the other hand, if β/γ exceeds 6.5, the yarn spinnability The quality of the fabric deteriorates, and a stable fabric cannot be obtained, and even if it is obtained, the texture of the fabric is poor, making it difficult to put it to practical use in terms of operational quality. Particularly preferably, the range of β/γ is 3.0 to 6.0. Next, in order to obtain a product that can be used in practical use as a woven fabric, it is determined not only by the above-mentioned cross-sectional shape but also by the fineness of the single filaments that make up the multifilament. Therefore, when taking into account the synergistic effect with leaf shape, etc., the single yarn denier needs to be 2.2 to 15 deniers. Preferably it is 3 to 8 deniers. If the single yarn denier is less than 2.2 denier, it will tend to be too thin and have poor shine.
On the other hand, if the single yarn denier exceeds 15 denier, the yarn will have too much rigidity, and when made into a fabric, its value will decrease and it may become unusable. In the present invention, a thermoplastic multifilament made of single filaments having the above-described specific cross-sectional shape and fineness is twisted, and the twisting angle at that time is the twisting angle calculated by the above equation (1). but
It is necessary to set the angle between 25° and 38°. When twisting the multifilament, heat setting is performed in a conventional manner simultaneously with or following the twisting. When the multifilament is twisted in the present invention, the leaves between the single filaments are deformed and interlock with each other, and irregularities are formed on the outer periphery of the multifilament by the leaves protruding from the outer periphery. Therefore, woven fabrics using such threads have a unique natural texture with a hemp-like feel. If the twist angle during twisting is less than 25 degrees, the residual torque will be small, and even when used for weaving, the texture will be poor (small irregularities) and the texture will be poor. On the other hand, if the twist angle exceeds 38°, the strength tends to decrease and the rigidity becomes excessive, and it becomes difficult to form irregularities on the outer periphery of the multifilament due to the leaves of the single filament. In the present invention, the twist angle can be appropriately selected within the above range depending on the intended fabric. Since the multifilament used in the present invention is made of single filaments with a specific shape as described above, when twisted with the same number of twists, it has a lower residual torque than a multifilament made of single filaments with a circular cross section. It can be made higher.
For example, in order to obtain a fabric with the same degree of shirring, a multifilament made of single filaments with a circular cross section needs to be twisted at a twist angle of 46° or more, whereas in the case of the multifilament of the present invention, the twist angle is 46° or more. Approximately 32° is sufficient for this purpose. Therefore,
The twisting speed can be increased by about 40%, and as a result, the twisting cost can be reduced by 30 to 40%. In the present invention, a woven fabric is produced by weaving the highly twisted yarn obtained as described above, but the highly twisted yarn of the present invention may be used for the warp and weft, or it may be used only for the warp or weft. Alternatively, it may be used for part of the warp or weft. In order to effectively reflect the features of the highly twisted yarn of the present invention in the fabric, it is preferable to use the highly twisted yarn of the present invention in 50% or more of the entire fabric. Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained based on illustrated examples. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the highly twisted yarn of the present invention, in which a thermoplastic multifilament consisting of a single filament with a four-lobed cross section shown in FIG. This is a highly twisted yarn obtained by twisting and heat setting under the following conditions. As is clear from Fig. 2, the leaves of each single filament are deformed, the leaves between the single filaments are intertwined with each other, and voids are formed between the single filaments, and the outer periphery of the multifilament is The leaves of the single filament protrude, forming a unique uneven pattern. Fabrics obtained from such highly twisted yarns have a linen-like smooth feel because the leaves between each single filament are intertwined with each other, and there are also gaps between the single filaments and irregularities on the outer periphery of the multifilament. The multifilament exhibits bulkiness due to its presence, and has a natural fiber-like feel due to the unevenness of the outer periphery of the multifilament. Figure 3 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of a conventional highly twisted yarn, in which a thermoplastic multifilament consisting of a single filament with a circular cross section is twisted at an angle in the clockwise direction.
This was obtained by twisting and heat setting at 44°. Although the single filament of this highly twisted yarn is deformed, compared to the highly twisted yarn shown in FIG. 2, there are almost no irregularities on the outer periphery of the yarn. Fabrics made of such highly twisted yarns have a silky feel but lack bulk. FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of a twisted yarn of a comparative example, and shows 4-
1 is a thermoplastic multifilament consisting of a single filament with a four-lobed cross section shown in Figure 1-1, which was twisted and heat-set under conditions such that the twist angle was 17° in the clockwise direction. , 4-2 is a similar thermoplastic multifilament with a twist angle in the right rotation direction.
Twisted and heat set under conditions of 44°. The fabric woven using the twisted yarn shown in Figure 4 4-1 for the warp and weft has less grain and less sagging, while the fabric woven using the twisted yarn shown in Figure 4 4-2 for the warp and weft. The woven fabric has too much rigidity, and the outer periphery of the yarn has few irregularities, similar to yarns with a circular cross section, and does not exhibit the unique linen-like, crisp texture. In the present invention, a thermoplastic multifilament consisting of a single filament having a cross-sectional shape and a single denier as described above is twisted.
Even when twisted at a lower twisting angle than before, it is possible to give the fabric a hemp-like crispness and reduce manufacturing costs, and it is also possible to reduce the decrease in strength of the filament due to twisting. It is something. Furthermore, thermoplastic multifilament consisting of single filament with a specific cross-sectional shape
Since the fabric is twisted at a twist angle of 25° to 38°, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric that has excellent hemp-like silkiness and is rich in bulk. Further, the fabric obtained according to the present invention can be wrinkled to give it a good grain. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was spun using spinnerets of various shapes at a temperature of 285
℃ at a spinning speed of 1000 m/min, followed by drawing at a draw ratio of 3.3 to obtain 75 denier/24 filament multifilaments consisting of single filaments with various cross-sectional shapes shown in Table 1. Among the multifilaments obtained, the cross-sections of single filaments 1-2 to 1-6 show a symmetrical shape in which the lobes protrude from the central core at equal lengths, and the angles between the lobes are substantially equal. This multifilament was used as the raw yarn to feed, using an Italian twisting machine, and the twisting angle was
After twisting at 30°, steam setting was performed using steam at 85°C for 40 minutes. The properties of the obtained yarn are also listed in Table 1.

[Table] When weaving a plain woven fabric using each of the yarns obtained above as the warp and weft, we found that when yarns 1-2 to 1-5 were used, a unique style with a linen-like crispness was obtained. A composite fabric was obtained. On the other hand, when threads 1-1 and 1-6 were used, the texture was poor. Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was spun using cross-shaped spinnerets of various sizes at a spinning temperature of 280°C and a spinning speed of 1000 m/min, followed by stretching at a draw ratio of 3.3. 75 of various symmetrical cross-sectional shapes with four-lobed cross-sections shown in 2.
I got a multifilament of denier/24 filament. This multifilament was used as a raw yarn to be twisted using the same Italian twisting machine as in Example 1 at a twisting angle of 30°, and steam-set with steam at 85° C. for 40 minutes. Furthermore, as a result of weaving a plain weave using a Tsudakoma LMD type automatic loom, the evaluations shown in Table 2 were obtained.

[Table] The fabrics using threads 2-3 to 2-5 had a crisp feel and were bulky, but 2-1
The woven fabrics using the threads of ~2-2 were inferior in shabby taste and bulkiness. Example 3 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.65 was spun using cross-shaped and circular spinnerets at a spinning temperature of 280°C and a spinning speed of 1000 m/min, and then stretched at a draw ratio of 3.3 to 75 I got a multifilament of denier/24 filament. Using this multifilament as a raw yarn and using the same Italian twisting machine as in Example 1, the twisting angles regulated by equation (1) were 17°, 27°, 35°, and 44°, respectively. Twisted. The obtained yarn was woven in a flat weave using a Tsudakoma LMD type automatic loom, and then evaluated through the usual rolling process with a washer, weight loss with alkali, dyeing, and setting process.Table 3 I got the result. Dyeing and finishing conditions: Circular dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd. 130℃ x 30 minutes Finishing pin tenter manufactured by Hirano Metal Co., Ltd. 180℃ x 30 seconds

【table】

【table】 [Brief explanation of drawings]

1-1 and 1-2 are cross-sectional views showing an example of the cross-sectional shape of a single filament constituting the multifilament used in the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view showing an example of the highly twisted yarn of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a sectional view showing an example of a conventional highly twisted yarn, and FIGS. 4-4-1 and 4-2 are sectional views of comparative example twisted yarns.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. The single filament has a radial cross-sectional shape.
A special irregular cross section consisting of at least one type selected from 8 leaves, with at least 2 leaves having a leaf length β
A thermoplastic multifilament in which the ratio β/γ of the radius γ and the radius γ of the central core is 1.85 to 6.5, and the fineness of the single filament is 2.2 to 15 deniers, is as follows.
A method for producing a special texture strongly twisted fabric, characterized in that it is woven using highly twisted yarn obtained by twisting so that the twist angle calculated by formula (1) is 25° to 38°. However, θ: Twisting angle (°) D: Fineness of multifilament (denier) T: Number of twists (T/M)