JPH0244930B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a novel special bulky textured yarn having a special appearance and shape that is produced using a false twist crimp processing device, and a method for producing the same. Conventionally, many special crimped yarns have been proposed in which thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns are continuously false-twisted and crimped to form sheath yarns wound around core yarns. For example, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 53-27386, two multifilament yarns are combined in the false twisting region with the same tension, and T=
[300000/(D+50)] +1300±10% false twisting process of twisting, heat setting, and untwisting is performed (However, , T: false twist number (T/m), D: denier). The inventors of the present invention conducted a follow-up test of the above method, but as a result, the produced yarn had weak entanglement between the core yarn and sheath yarn, and the sheath yarn was easily displaced, resulting in many troubles during the knitting process. has become clear. Also,
Because the threads are easily displaced in this way, naps and loop fuzz occur on the surface of the knitted fabric, spoiling its beauty, making it impossible to obtain fabrics with design effects and diversity, which is extremely unsatisfactory. It was hot. The inventor of the present invention has conducted intensive research in order to eliminate the above-mentioned drawbacks, and as a result, has invented a new chambray-like special bulky yarn that has a special appearance and form that has never existed before, and has also invented this special bulky yarn. This led to the invention of a manufacturing method that can be produced inexpensively and efficiently in a single false-twisting step. In other words, the special bulky textured yarn of the present invention is made by simultaneously false twisting and crimping at least two thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns, and the sheath yarn is tightly wound around the core yarn at an equal pitch, and the longitudinal length of the yarn is It is characterized in that the core yarn and sheath yarn alternate along the direction, and the twist direction is reversed. Furthermore, in the method for producing a special bulky textured yarn of the present invention, when a plurality of thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns are simultaneously false-twisted and crimped, one yarn is over-supplied at a constant rate, and the other yarn is subjected to a tension adjustment device. Both yarns are brought together at an obtuse angle through a twisting guide that can be easily displaced by twisting tension vibration, and guided to the false twisting zone for twisting. It is characterized in that the confluence point of the yarns is displaced together with the twisting guide. Next, specific examples of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. First, FIG. 1 shows an explanatory diagram of the entire apparatus for producing the special bulky processed yarn of the present invention. 3 and are twisted between the twisting guide 3 and the false-twisting spindle 4 and heat-treated by the heater 5. The fibers are twisted and then wound into a cheese 8 by a winding roller 7 as a special bulky yarn. In this case, a drawn yarn of polyester filament is used as yarn A, and a drawn yarn of cationic dyeable polyester filament is used as yarn B.
Both yarns A and B have different dyeing properties. The yarn A supplied from the package 1 passes through a guide and is sent out by the supply roller 9 at a certain overfeed rate within the range of +10 to +30%, and is fed to the other package 2.
The yarn B supplied from the thread B is pulled out via the tension adjustment device 10. This tension adjustment device 10 is designed to adjust the tension of the thread B to be pulled out by bringing the thread B to be drawn out around the rotating tensor blade into contact and applying a constant brake using electromagnetic force to the rotation of the tensor blade. Although it is preferable to use a device with a structure that keeps the value constant, devices with other structures may also be used. Both yarns A and B pass through the twisting guide 3, merge at an obtuse angle, and are sent to the false twisting zone. It is installed with a slight increase or decrease in twisting tension vibration, preferably 1.0g.
It is designed to be able to be displaced by the above-mentioned twisting tension vibration. It is preferable that the displacement length of the confluence point of both yarns A and B, which is limited by the twist guide 3, is about 5 mm. In addition, the number of false twists by the false twist spindle 4 is determined by the Heberlein formula used when manufacturing normal false twist yarn, that is, when the denier of the obtained yarn is D, T = 275000 / D + 60 + 800 (t/m) It is preferable that the number of twists is larger than the number of twists T defined by
A particularly appropriate number of false twists N is 1.8T<N(t/m)<
It is within the range of 2.2T. The special bulky textured yarn of the present invention can be manufactured using the apparatus and conditions described above. Next, the process of forming the yarn will be explained with reference to FIG. 2. First, when the tension T ₁ of yarn A and the tension T ₂ of yarn B are equal, both yarns A and B are in the state shown in Figure 2 B, but yarn B is naturally pulled out. On the other hand, since the yarn A is fed at a predetermined overfeed rate by the supply roller 9, its tension T ₁ becomes low, although it is small, and the yarn A has a high tension T ₂ as shown in Figure 2A. It will now be wrapped around row B. At that time, the tension increases, and the confluence point 0 of both yarns A and B moves upstream due to the twisting tension, causing the twist stopper guide 3 to move up.
Push up to _P1 point. Therefore, yarn A is wound around yarn B, increasing the biting amount, but since yarn A is being supplied at a constant overfeed rate, the amount of supply becomes insufficient, and this time the yarn Tension at A
T ₁ increases, passes through the equilibrium state (T ₁ = T ₂ ) shown in Figure 2B, and becomes even greater than the tension T ₂ of yarn B,
It shifts to the state shown in Figure 2 (c). At this time, thread A, which had been a sheath thread, is replaced with a core thread, and thread B, which had been a core thread, is replaced with a sheath thread. After that, yarn B continues to be yarn A, which becomes the core yarn.
Since the thread is wound tightly around the thread, the tension increases as the biting amount increases, and the confluence point 0 moves upstream and the twisting tension pushes the twisting guide 3 up to point _P2 . on the other hand,
Since yarn A is being supplied at a predetermined overfeed rate, in this state the amount of supply becomes excessive, and its tension T ₁ decreases, and this time it returns to the equilibrium state shown in Figure 2 B. Become. After reaching an equilibrium state, the confluence point of both yarns A and B is displaced due to the relative tension change caused by the twisting action of both yarns, and the above process is repeated, and the core yarn is expanded in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. A special bulky textured yarn with the sheath yarn reversed is formed. In addition, in the above process, the confluence point 0 of both yarns A and B
is in a state where the twist is stopped by the twist stopper guide 3,
It repeatedly moves irregularly in the vertical and horizontal directions in the figure while limiting the displacement length Δ to within 5 mm. A special bulky textured yarn is manufactured through the above process, but in the above example, the confluence angles θ, θ ₁ , θ ₂ at the confluence points 0, P ₁ and P ₂ of both yarns A and B are
are made at obtuse angles, but this is because if the joining angles θ, θ ₁ and θ ₂ are made acute, the core yarn and sheath yarn will have poor winding properties, will be weak against ironing, and will easily shift, resulting in poor knitting and weaving. This is because problems occur during the process. Also, increase the overfeed rate of yarn A by +10 to +30.
% because below +10%, it is nearly impossible to form a core-sheath, and the formed sheath thread becomes coarse in winding density and easily slips.
On the other hand, when the overfeed rate is greater than +30%, the displacement at the confluence point of both yarns A and B is, for example, the displacement length Δ, despite the large overfeed rate.
is limited to within 5mm,
This is because the sheath yarn forms multiple winding nep or slabs, which impairs false twisting operability and makes it impossible to obtain the desired special bulk. Furthermore, the number of false twists N is set to 1.8 to 2.2 times the number of twists T determined by Heberlein's formula used when manufacturing normal false twisted yarns. This is because the manufactured bulky yarn has many loops and fuzz, and the sheath yarn part is likely to shift. On the other hand, if the number of false twists N is larger than this range, yarn breakage occurs frequently during manufacturing. It's for a reason. In addition, the reason why the twist guide 3 is provided is that if the twist guide 3 is not provided, the winding density of the sheath yarn around the core yarn will be coarse, and there will be no winding at an equal pitch, which will cause the yarn to shift easily. Therefore, this is to prevent this. For example, if a bulky yarn is manufactured by using a different color thermoplastic filament yarn for one of the yarns without using the twist guide 3, and this is made into a fabric, the result is a moire-like heather unevenness and misalignment of the sheath yarn part. This causes the inconvenience of streaks. On the other hand, in the present invention, at the confluence point of both yarns A and B, 1.0 g
The twist guide 3, which can be displaced by the twisting tension vibrations described above, is attached to absorb the twisting tension vibrations, and is always kept in close contact with the confluence point of both yarns A and B. By displacing both yarns A and B at the same time as the confluence point due to a tension change, the core yarn and sheath yarn can be reversed, and the sheath yarn can be tightly wound around the core yarn at an equal pitch. The fabric produced using such special bulky processed yarn is unique and rich in chambray-like elegance. As described above, according to the present invention, as shown in FIG. 3, in the section A, the yarn B becomes the core yarn, and the yarn A is wound around it, and in the section B, the core-sheath is reversed. In the following section C, yarn A becomes the core yarn and yarn B is wound around it, so that the core yarn and sheath yarn are alternately reversed in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the sheath yarn becomes the core yarn. It is possible to provide a special bulky processed yarn that is tightly wound with a pitch equal to that of a yarn and is tightly wound. In addition, when at least one of the yarns used is a different dyed yarn or a spun-dyed yarn, the color changes in the longitudinal direction of the yarn,
It has a unique heathered effect, and in particular, as mentioned above, the core thread and sheath thread are alternated, and the sheath thread is wound at an equal pitch, so there is no large pattern caused by the disturbance of the heather, and it has a marbled look. It becomes heathered and can be made into a special bulky thread rich in the elegance of an iridescent pattern. Next, examples of the present invention will be described. Example 1 Yarn A and yarn B are 30d/12f, respectively.
A special bulky textured yarn was produced using the crimped and false twisted processing apparatus shown in FIG. 1 using the drawn polyester yarn under the following conditions. Spindle rotation speed 275000rpm Number of false twists 5190T/M Heater temperature 225℃ Feed rate of yarn A +25% Setting standard tension T of yarn B Special bulky yarn manufactured under conditions of ₂ 5g or higher has a fineness of 94d. As shown in Figure 3, the core yarn and sheath yarn are replaced in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, resulting in a solid winding, and the fabric using this yarn for the warp and warp exhibits a surface effect, making it spun-like. It became a piece rich in elegance with a unique texture. Example 2 A drawn polyester yarn of 50d/48f was used as thread A, and a drawn polyester thread of 50d/48f dyeable with cationic dye was used as thread B, using the crimping and false twisting processing apparatus shown in FIG. A special bulky textured yarn was produced under the following conditions. Spindle rotation speed 250000rpm False twist number 4450T/M Heater temperature 220℃ Yarn A feed rate +15% Setting standard tension of yarn B T ₂ Special bulky processed yarn manufactured under conditions of 6g or more is shown in Figure 3. In this way, the core thread and sheath thread were interchanged in the longitudinal direction of the thread, and the entanglement became more solid. This special bulky processed yarn is then skeined, dyed in a mixed bath of disperse dyes and basic cationic dyes, turned over, and then knitted and woven.The resulting fabric has an iridescent surface. The result is a highly effective and aesthetically pleasing product. Example 3 A special bulky textured yarn was produced using a 50d/24f drawn polyester yarn as yarn A and a 50d/24f easily dyed polyester drawn yarn as yarn B under the following conditions. Spindle rotation speed 250000rpm Number of false twists 4450T/M Heater temperature 220℃ Yarn A feed rate +20% Setting standard tension T of yarn B ₂ 6g As a result, it has a fineness of 117d, and the longitudinal direction is as shown in Figure 3. The core yarn and sheath yarn were exchanged and the twist direction was reversed, and a special bulky yarn with a strong entanglement was obtained. In addition, woven fabrics using this yarn in warp and warp exhibit surface effects and become chambray-like with a spun-like texture. Next, Table 1 shows the evaluation of textured yarn properties when only the number of false twists was changed under the crimp false twist processing conditions of Example 3 above.

[Table] From the above, if the number of false twists N is smaller than 1.8 times the number of twists T determined by Heberlein's formula used when manufacturing normal false twisted yarns, that is, D = 117d, so T = 2354T/M, 1.8T=
4237T/M, so the number of false twists is 2400T/M and
This applies when 3600T/M is smaller than 1.8T, but
In this case, it is clear that loops and sagging fluff occur, the unwinding property of the package is poor, the threads shift in the core-sheath portion, and the beading effect is inferior. On the other hand, if the number of false twists N is greater than 2.2T, i.e.
2.2T=5178T/M, so the number of false twists is 5500T/M
This falls under this category, but in this case, it is clear that yarn breakage occurs frequently during crimping and false twisting. Furthermore, Table 2 shows the results of testing the influence of the presence or absence of the twisting guide 3 on the evaluation of textured yarn properties under the crimping and false twisting processing conditions of Example 3.

[Table] From this, it is clear that by providing the twist guide 3, it is possible to produce a high quality special bulky processed yarn.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is an explanatory diagram of the entire apparatus used to carry out the present invention, Fig. 2 is an exploded view showing the displacement of the confluence of yarn A and yarn B, and Fig. 3 is the special bulking process of the present invention. FIG. 6 is an enlarged side view showing the thread in correspondence with the displacement processes shown in the previous figures A, B, and C; A, B... Yarn, 3... Twisting guide, 10...
...Tension adjustment device.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A special bulky processed yarn made by simultaneously false twisting and crimping at least two thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns, in which a sheath yarn is closely wound at an equal pitch around a core yarn, and , a special bulky yarn characterized in that the core yarn and sheath yarn are interchanged along the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the twist direction is reversed. 2. The special bulky textured yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns is a metachromatic thermoplastic synthetic filament yarn. 3. The special bulky processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns is a spun-dyed thermoplastic synthetic filament yarn. 4 When false twisting and crimping multiple thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns at the same time, one yarn is over-supplied at a constant rate, the other yarn is pulled out through a tension adjustment device, and both yarns are adjusted to the twisting tension. The threads are passed through a twisting guide that can be easily displaced by vibration, and are brought together at an obtuse angle, guided to the false twisting zone, and twisted, and by changing the relative tension of both yarns, the confluence point of both yarns is moved together with the twisting guide. A method for producing a special bulky processed yarn, characterized in that the yarn is displaced. 5 The overfeed rate of the one yarn is +
5. The special bulky textured yarn according to claim 4, characterized in that it has a content of 10 to +30%. 6. The method for producing a special bulky textured yarn according to claim 4, wherein the number of false twists N in the false twist zone is in the range of 1.8T<N(t/m)<2.2T. However, T is a value determined by Heberlein's formula T=275000/D+60+800, and D in the formula is the denier number of the obtained special bulky yarn.