JPH03193902A - Production of outerwear - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To reduce clothing weight on the shoulder and improve clothing comfort by forming the front body part in which the front center line is inclined so that the upper end thereof may go away from the side line. CONSTITUTION:A standard point (K) of the chest apart from a front standard point (F) at a distance of an about half width of the neck in the direction of the chest is determined and the front body part (Q) is formed using, as the front center line, a straight line perpendicularly intersecting a straight line connecting the intersection (Fa) of a circumference having a radius of 3 times the neck width (d) around the point (Xa) perpendicularly thereunder and a vertical line drawn through the point (F) to the point (K) at the point (Fa). By sewing the front body part (Q) with the rear body part (P), the upper part of the front body part (Q) is rotated round the point (K) in the direction of the side line so that the front center line may point to the vertical direction and the upper part of the rear body part (P) is rotated round a standard point (Ca) of the back part in the direction of the rear center line side so that the lower end part 9 of the armhole line may rise for meeting the rear end part 9a of the armhole line of the front body part (Q) and that the upper part of the chest standard line may be made three-dimensional.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] (Industrial Application Field) This invention has left and right front bodies and left and right rear bodies,
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing outer clothing such as shirts and outerwear that are formed to cover at least the upper body from the waist up.

(Prior Art) Upper garments such as shirts and outerwear for covering the upper body are generally made by sewing left and right front bodies and back bodies. Set two upper and lower reference points on the line, separated by the finished length of the jacket, and draw a horizontal chest reference line perpendicular to the back center line at a predetermined position between these two reference points, and then Approximately 1/2 of the bust circumference (finished size) from the rear center line above
The anterior reference point was taken from a distance and the plot was drawn based on the above-mentioned posterior center line, chest reference line, and anterior reference point. In the conventional planar drafting method, a straight line is drawn perpendicularly to the above-mentioned front reference point, and the front body is drawn using this straight line as the front center line, especially when creating a bulge on the chest of the front body of a suit. They had to do the tedious work of ironing and installing interlining made of wool interlining, bath wool interlining, felt, slip cloth, etc.

On the other hand, a three-dimensional drafting method described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 6233324 was disclosed as a method for reducing the weight of a suit jacket and creating room around the neck and chest by eliminating the above-mentioned troublesome work in the two-dimensional drafting method. ing. In this three-dimensional drawing method, approximately 1/1/1 of the chest width is drawn along the chest reference line from the front reference point.
A point 2 points away is the chest reference point, and a point 3 times the transverse diameter of the neck (the transverse diameter of the neck when wearing a dress shirt, see d in Figure 2) vertically above this chest reference point is taken. Draw an arc with a radius three times the length of the transverse neck diameter as the center,
Intersect this arc with the vertical straight line passing through the above front reference point (corresponding to the front reference line in planar drafting), and intersect the straight line connecting that intersection with the chest reference point at right angles at the above intersection. By drawing a straight line and drawing the front body using this slanted straight line as the front center line, the front body is formed in a shape where the upper part of the bust line is bent toward the side line, and on the other hand, the width of the back body on the chest reference line is Take a point vertically below the back reference point located in the middle and three times the horizontal diameter of the neck, draw an arc centered on this point and have a radius three times the horizontal diameter of the neck,
Intersect this arc with a vertical straight line passing through the armpit line side end on the chest reference line of the back body, and move the lower end of the armhole line of the back body to the armhole of the front body by the distance between the intersection and the chest reference line. The horizontal reference line is positioned lower than the rear end of the line and passes between the upper end of the rear center line and the chest reference line, and is rotated around a point approximately in the middle of the rear body width to tilt the rear center line toward the side line. By doing so, the above-mentioned upper part of the bust line of the rear body is formed into a shape that bends toward the armpit line at two places in total, the bust line and the above-mentioned part, and the width of the neckline is further adjusted according to the above-mentioned transverse neck diameter and the left and right double layers. The dimensions were set to be approximately equal to the total dimensions.

(Problem to be solved by the invention! 5I) The three-dimensional drafting method described in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 62-33324 bends and shapes the front body and the back body so that their upper parts are inclined toward the side lines. Since the bulge is formed in the chest only by suturing, troublesome work such as ironing or attaching interlining becomes unnecessary. However, in the above-described three-dimensional drawing method, the front center line is rotated and tilted around the chest reference point on the chest reference line, so the composite end of the shoulder line on the front body and the composite end of the shoulder line on the back body. The distance from the chest to the chest becomes shorter, and this acts in a direction that prevents the increase in the bulge. Therefore, even if the angle of inclination of the front center line is increased, there is a limit to the increase in the bulge in the chest, and the weight of the jacket on the shoulders, i.e. If the wearing pressure is not sufficiently small and the above-mentioned inclination angle is increased, there is a problem that the balance between the front body and the back body is lost and the appearance of the garment becomes poor.

This invention forms the front body by slanting the front center line in the opposite direction to the conventional three-dimensional drafting method, and changes the balance between the front body and the back body to further increase the bulge in the chest and shoulder This further reduces the pressure exerted on the wearer and further improves the wearing comfort.

(Means for Solving the Problems) In order to solve the above problems, in this invention, two upper and lower reference points 0 and L are defined on the rear center line in the vertical direction, separated by the finished dimension of the jacket length, and these two On the horizontal chest reference line (horizontal reference line passing through point B) perpendicular to the rear center line between reference points 0 and L, approximately 1/2 the bust circumference (finished size) from the rear center line. to determine the front reference point F, and form left and right front body parts Q and back body parts P based on the above-mentioned rear center line, 11 reference line and front reference point F, respectively, and form left and right front body parts Q and rear body parts that cover at least the upper body. In the method of manufacturing a jacket consisting of a body P, a chest reference point K is determined from the front reference point F in the armpit direction along the chest reference line by approximately 1/2 of the transverse diameter of the neck, and Draw an arc vertically downward centered on point Xa, which is three times the width of the neck, and whose radius is three times the width of the neck, and this arc intersects the vertical line passing through the front reference point F. Point Fa is set as the second front reference point, and the front body Q is formed using a straight line connecting this second front reference point Pa and chest reference point K and a straight line orthogonal to the second front reference point Fa as the front center line. A length three times the width of the neck, centered on a point Draw an arc with a radius of , intersect this arc with the vertical line passing through the side edge E of the back body on the chest reference line, and draw the back body P by the distance between the intersection Ha and the chest reference line. The lower end of the armhole 9 is connected to the rear end 9a of the armhole line of the front body Q.
The back body P is formed in such a shape that the back body P is positioned lower than the chest reference line and the upper end of the rear center line and is bent toward the side line side.

(Function) By suturing the front body Q and the back body P, the front body Q
The upper part rotates in the direction of the armpit line around the chest reference point K, the front center line faces up and down, and the upper part of the back body P rotates towards the back center line around the back reference point Ca, and the armhole line The lower end 9 rises to match the rear end 9a of the armhole line of the front body Q, and accordingly, the upper part of the chest reference line becomes three-dimensional.

In this case, the front center line is inclined as described above, and the distance between the shoulder line of the front body Q and the shoulder line of the back body P is expanded, so the shoulder line of the front body Q and the shoulder line of the back body P are drawn. While the chest bulge due to line suture increases, the upper part of the back body P is located closer to the back center line than the middle of the back body width on the chest reference line (the back reference point in the conventional three-dimensional drawing method). Since it rotates around , the amount of rise of the lower end 9 of the armhole due to the rotation of the upper part of the back body P increases, which is balanced with the increase in the bulge of the front body Q.

(Example) Below, bust circumference 90cm (finished size 1041cm)
), waist circumference 78cm (finished dimensions 92C),
Hip circumference 93C11 (finished size 105cm),
Jacket length 72C11, shoulder width 44cm, neck width 12.8C1
The case of No. 1 male standard body will be explained in detail.

In FIG. 1, P is the back body and Q is the front body. The straight line in the vertical direction passing through base point 0 on the upper right is the rear center line, and from the base point 0 on the rear center line, 22.8 cm (1 / of the transverse diameter of the neck)
2 x 3 + 3.6 cm) Point B below and 4
Take a point W 1.5 cm below and a point 721 (jacket length) below, draw a horizontal reference line passing through point B to determine the chest reference line, and draw a horizontal reference line passing through point W to determine the chest reference line. Draw a horizontal reference line that passes through the dots and use it as the hem reference line. Also, a point V is placed between base point 0 on the rear center line and point B on the chest reference line, and 19C1l of point W on the torso reference line.
Point H is taken below, a horizontal reference line passing through point V is drawn as the upper leg reference line, and a horizontal reference line passing through point H is drawn as the hip reference line.

20.3C1l from point B on the chest reference line passing through point B above
Point E at a distance of (lateral diameter of neck / 2 An intersection point Ca with the leg upper reference line passing through the above point V is determined. Also, the above point C
Set the back reference point cb at 2.5 CI on the rear center line side, and 38.4 cm vertically below this back reference point cb (lateral neck diameter d
Take a point Intersect the perpendicular line passing through it, and let the intersection be Ea.

Also, take a point Va 0.5 cm above the point V above the rear center line, connect this point Va and the midpoint Ca of the upper leg reference line with a straight line, and connect this straight line with a perpendicular line passing through point E. The intersection of v
b, draw a straight line that perpendicularly intersects the straight line connecting points Va and vb above at point Va to form a second rear center line, and a second rear center line is drawn 11.4C1m above point Va along this second rear center line.
A base point Oa is determined, and a third base point ob is determined at 0.5 am on the rear center line side on a straight line passing through this second base point Oa and orthogonal to the second rear center line.

On the torso reference line passing through point W, set point l at a distance of 1.5 cm from the rear center line, and on the hem reference line at a distance of 2.5 cm from the rear center line.
Take point 2 at a distance of C1l, and then point B on the chest reference line.
Point 3 is taken vertically above 51, and the intersection A of the straight line connecting point 3 and l with the chest reference line is determined as the rear reference point of the chest reference line.

Then, connect the upper second base point Ob, point Va, point ■, point 3, and point l with a curved line, and connect these points 1 and 2 with a straight line to form the rear end line (the joining part of the left and right back body). Form.

Let 5 be the intersection point of the torso reference line and a vertical line passing through the side edge E on the chest reference line of the back body. Also, a point 6 is taken at a distance of 16 cm from the third base point ob on a straight line passing through the second base point Oa and orthogonal to the second rear center line, and passing through this point 6, a straight line 6
- Take a point 7 at 3.5 am above along the perpendicular line set at Oa, and take a point 8 at 6.4 ccm (1/2 of the transverse diameter of the neck) on the third base point obO point 6. From neck to waist measurement 2
．． Take a point 8a at a distance of 3 cm, and let M be the intersection of the perpendicular line erected at point 8a on this straight line 6-Ob and the straight line 7-Ob, and from this point M, draw a straight line inclined at 22 degrees with respect to the horizontal line. Draw 221 (1/1/of the shoulder width) from the rear center line on this slope line.
2) Take the point S, make the straight line M-3 the shoulder line, and make the curve M-O
Make b the collar.

Point 9 is taken 6 cm vertically above the point E at the side edge of the side line on the chest reference line of the back body P, and 0.5 el outside of this point 9.
Take point lO at point l, take point 11 on the rear center line side 31 of point 5 on the torso reference line below it, and then take point 2 on the perpendicular line erected to the lower end 2 of straight line 1-2 on the lower rear center line side. Point 12 is selected so that the distance from the point 12 is equal to the distance between points 1.11 on the trunk reference line plus 1.5 C1l. And point 2
．． 12 is tied to form the hem line, points 12, 11 and 10 are connected in order to form the side line, and points 9, vb and S are connected to form the armhole line.

53 along the chest reference line from the rear reference point A on the chest reference line above.
．． 6cm #i distance (1/1 of finished bust size)
2 + Dart amount 1.6cm) Take the front reference point F, and from this front reference point F in the side line direction 18.2c which is slightly shorter than the back width
Take a point at a distance II (d/2X 3-I C11) of m, and also measure a distance (d
/2 +0.5 cil = 6.9 cm) and set it as the chest reference point, and point Xa at a distance of 438.4 cm, 3 times the transverse neck diameter d, vertically downward from this chest reference point. , and draw an arc with a radius equal to the distance 38.4C11 above with this point Xa as the center, and define the intersection Pa of this arc and the vertical line passing through the front reference point F as the second front reference point. Let Y be the intersection of the vertical line passing through the second front reference point Fa and the lower torso reference line, and also make a perpendicular line to the second front reference point Fa on the straight line connecting the second front reference point Fa and the chest reference point. , and the point where this perpendicular intersects the lower body reference line is set as Ya, and this point Ya
Let the diagonal straight line connecting the above-mentioned second front reference point Fa be the front reference line. Then, point 13 is taken along this front reference line at 15.5 CIl above the second front reference point Fa (however, if interlining is added, 16 CIl above point Fa), and point Y
Draw a straight line parallel to the above front reference line downward from point J, which is 0.4 Cs apart from the overlap between the upper front and lower front, on the outside of a.
The point where this intersects with the hemline is designated as PL, and the straight line connecting this point J and PL is designated as the front end line.

Draw a perpendicular line to point 13 at the upper end of the front center line, place a point R at a distance Jim (d/2) of 6.4 cm on the side line side of this perpendicular line, and place a point R next to it with a neck and waist measurement of 2.3 cm. Take each point Ra in turn and calculate the distance between point 13 and Ra as the third base point o of the back body P.
Match the distance between b and point 8a, draw a perpendicular line to this point Ra, and draw a distance 1ii1 (d/2+1.1 e
ll), draw a straight line with an inclination angle of 14 degrees to the horizontal through this point N, and draw a point T on this straight line at a distance 0.5 cm shorter than the shoulder line M-3 of the back body P. , and connect points T and N with a curved line to form the shoulder line of the front body Q.

3.5 c upward along the vertical line passing through the dot on the chest reference line
Put a dot on m, and from the dot along the body reference line, side line side 4c
Point 18 is taken at i+, and 19 is the intersection of the vertical line passing through the points and the lower body reference line. Point 18 on the chest reference line
Take a point 20 with a dart distance of 1.6cmfi next to it, a point 21 on the center line side 3C11 behind point 19 on the torso reference line, a point 22 on the lower pocket position, and a point 23 on the side of point 21 21.
Take the points 18 and 20, and the point 21 when sewing.
and 23 are sewn together to form a dart.

If darts are not required, set the distance between the front reference point F and the rear reference point A to 1/2 of the finished bust circumference dimension, that is, 52 cm, and draw the drawing by aligning points 18.20 and 2L23.

A point 24 is set above point E on the chest reference line so that the distance between points 24 and 9 is equal to the distance between points E and Ea below, and a point 9a is set 1 cm on the side line side of this point 24.
Points 9a, 20.18, U, and T are connected with a curved line to form the armhole line.

From point 5 below point E along the torso reference line to the rear center line side 0.
Point 25 is taken on 3C1m, and the total length of the straight line that connects point 26 on the hemline side below this point 25 and point 26.25.9a in order is the total length of the side line of back body P (the straight line that connects points 12.1110 A vertical line that is equal to the total length of
6 and set the distance to 41, and the above point 26.2
5. Let the straight line connecting 9a in order be the side line.

Note that if the dart is not taken, the distance from point 5.25 is set to 0.3 cm.

Point 27 1.51 outside the intersection J of the torso reference line and front center line
, and from point N on the extension line of shoulder line NT, double layer 2.
Take point 28 at a distance of 3C11, and along the straight line connecting points 27 and 28, take point 29 at 7.5CII below point 28, and point 30 5cm below it, and draw a perpendicular line to point 30. Take point 31 at a distance of 8 cm from point 30 along
Also, 1.3 points below the point FL on the hem reference line along the front center line.
Score 32 points for 1. Then, the upper points N and 29.31 are connected in order to form a gorge line, and the points 31, 27, and 26 are connected to form a front end line and a skirt line.

The pattern paper for the back body P and the pattern paper for the front body Q obtained as described above are each copied onto the desired fabric. The front body Q is aligned in the warp direction, and the front end line (straight line connecting points J and PL) is aligned in the warp direction, and each piece is cut and sewn together.

In the above embodiment, the upper end portion of the rear center line (the upper portion of the point ■) is bent toward the side line side, the second base point Oa is set at the upper end, the third base point Ob is set outside of the second base point Oa, and the third base point Ob is set outside of the second base point Oa. Since the distance from point 2 is 2.5 cll to form the rear end line, the fit of the back body P is improved. Also, the shoulder line M- of the back body P
Since each inclination of the shoulder line T-N of No. 3 and front body Q is set at an inclination angle with respect to the horizontal line, the inclination of the shoulder line does not change due to size change.

In addition, although the above embodiment shows a suit-style outer garment with darts under the armpits and no narrow belly, it can be formed without darts as described above, or it can be formed with a narrow belly. I can do it. Moreover, by setting the multi-layer dimensions, it can be applied not only to suit jackets, but also to work clothes, tight-collared clothes, cut shirts, vests, sweaters, sports shirts, skin shirts, coats, anoraks, cloaks, etc. That is, in the above embodiment, the dimension from the third base point Ob at the upper end of the back body P to the lateral point 8a, and the distance from the point 13 at the upper end of the front body Q to the lateral point Ra, are each calculated as the "neck lateral diameter d". 1/2 + neck/waist dimension, but the above multi-layer dimension is 2.2 to 2.6 C for suit jackets and work clothes depending on the thickness of the outer fabric.
＠, and 1.4 to 1.6 cm for tight-collared clothes, 0.6 to 1.1 ell for cut shirts, vests, sports shirts, and sweaters, and 0.6 to 1.1 ell for cut-neck shirts, vests, sports shirts, and sweaters, and 0.6 to 1.1 ell for stretchy knit shirts. 0.4 to 0.61, and 2.8 to 3.3 for coats, anoraks, and cloaks.
By setting C11, the neck circumference of each of these upper garments is formed into concentric circles.

In addition, for work clothes that do not use shoulder pads other than suit jackets and overcoats, the angle of inclination of the shoulder line is 1
6 degrees, and the back body P is set to 24 degrees.

Additionally, sleeves can be made into raglan sleeves for cloaks, sports shirts, sweaters, anorak coats, and the like.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, in this invention, the front body is formed by slanting the front center line in a direction in which the upper end becomes farther from the side line. The upper part rotates towards the armpit line around the chest reference point, making the front center line vertical, and the upper part of the back body rotates around the back reference point towards the rear center line, raising the lower end of the armhole line. This matches the rear end of the armhole line of the front body, and accordingly, the upper part of the chest reference line becomes three-dimensional. Moreover, since the front center line is inclined as described above and the distance between the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line is widened, the chest line is created by suturing the front shoulder line and the back shoulder line. The bulge of the body is increased compared to the conventional three-dimensional drafting method, and the pressure on the shoulders is reduced, while the upper part of the back body is located at the middle of the width of the back body on the chest reference line (the back reference point in the conventional three-dimensional drafting method). Since it rotates around the back reference point located on the rear center line side, the amount of rise of the lower end of the armhole due to the rotation of the upper part of the back body increases, which balances the increase in the chest bulge in the front body, and the upper part of the jacket. Improves appearance. Since the inclination angle of the front body and the amount of bending at the bust line of the back body are set based on the transverse diameter of the neck, changes can be easily made depending on the size of the human body.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figure 1 is a plan view of the front body and back body of this invention;
The figure is a front view of the jacket. P: Back body, Q: Front body, 0: Base point of the upper end of the back center line,
L: Point at the lower end of the posterior center line, B, A: Base point of the chest reference line, F
: Front reference point, K: Chest reference point, Xa A point 3 times the transverse diameter of the neck vertically below the chest reference point, Fa: 2nd front reference point, C
a: Back reference point, Lower end, 9a: Back end of armhole line of front body Q.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] [1] Two reference points, upper and lower, are determined on the back center line in the vertical direction, separated by the finished dimension of the jacket length, and between these two reference points, a horizontal direction perpendicular to the back center line is determined. The front reference point is set on the chest reference line at a distance of approximately 1/2 the bust circumference (finished size) from the above-mentioned back center line, and the left and right front body and In a method of manufacturing a jacket consisting of left and right front bodies and a back body, each forming a back body and covering at least the upper body, the distance from the front reference point to the armpit direction along the chest reference line is about 1/2 of the transverse diameter of the neck. Determine the chest reference point by using The point that intersects the vertical line passing through the front reference point is the second front reference point, and the straight line that connects this second front reference point and the chest reference point and the straight line that intersects perpendicularly at the second front reference point is the front center line. form,
A length three times the neck transverse diameter centered on a point three times the neck transverse diameter vertically downward from the back reference point closer to the rear center line than the midpoint of the rear body width on the chest reference line of the rear body. Draw an arc to be the radius, intersect this arc with the vertical line passing through the side edge of the back body on the chest reference line, and draw the lower end of the armhole line of the back body by the distance between that intersection and the chest reference line. The back body is positioned lower than the rear end of the armhole line of the front body, and the back body is formed in a shape such that the rear body is bent toward the side line at the midpoint between the chest reference line and the upper end of the rear center line. How to make a jacket.