JPH03199438A - Combined yarn improved in dyeability and soft touch - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to improving the dyeability and texture of polyester multifilament composite yarns including ill filament yarns.

[Prior art and its problems] A composite yarn capable of imparting bulkiness to an IA product by developing a shrinkage difference between multifilament yarns with different heat shrinkage rates at the finishing stage of a mixed fiber fabric was disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 55-2258.
It is widely known from Publication No. 6, etc.

Furthermore, a composite yarn in which ultrafine fiber filament yarn is applied to this differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is also proposed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 19730/1983.

The former composite yarn can express silk-like bulkiness in place of the smooth, thin texture inherent to filament fabrics, while the latter composite yarn has a soft texture that even exceeds that of silk. can now be granted. However, on the other hand, since &41 filament is used, the dyed fabric made of ultra-fine filaments becomes brownish and lacks a luxurious feel. There was a trade-off between the two and the sense of being emphasized proportionally.

[Object of the Invention] The object of the present invention is to improve the dyeability, which is a fatal defect of composite yarns, and to create a composite yarn that exhibits a softer texture while improving dyeability, which is a fatal defect of composite yarns. Our goal is to provide the following.

[Structure of the Invention] As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above object, the present inventors have developed a method for achieving the above object without drawing an undrawn yarn of ultra-fine filament yarn.
By applying heat treatment to reduce the shrinkage rate of fresh water while minimizing the increase in crystallinity, the dyeing tendency of Chinese cabbage, which is a drawback of conventional ultra-fine filament yarns, can be eliminated and a deep color effect can be obtained. Moreover, we discovered that not only that, but the texture was much softer than that of conventional ultra-fine filaments, and that we could obtain an extraordinary effect as if we had thinned the single fiber denier by half. reached.

That is, according to the present invention, the single fiber denier is 0.8 dc or less and the crystallinity (χ )
Ultrafine, low shrinkage non-stretched filament yarn with a residual elongation of 3Q% or less, a spring water ρ yield of 5% or less, a single fiber denier of 1 or 2 de or more, and a total denier of less than the low shrinkage yarn. The yarn has improved color changeability and soft feel, characterized by being composited with highly shrinkage drawn filament yarns of the same or smaller size than the former, with the number of constituent filaments of the former being 1.4 times or more greater than that of the latter. A composite yarn is obtained.

The configuration of the present invention will be described.

First, the single fiber denier of the ultrafine low shrinkage non-stretched filament yarn used in the present invention needs to be ultrafine in order to impart a soft feel to the composite fabric. In this regard, according to the present invention, compared to the denier effect of ordinary ultra-fine fibers, even with the same denier, it is possible to obtain a soft feeling as if the single fiber denier is about half, so 0.8 de
The following is sufficient. However, if it becomes thinner than 0.1 de, the bathochromic effect will be lacking even with the present invention.
The above fibers are symmetrical.

Regarding elongation, C. If the yarn is stretched and has a low elongation, even if it is 41 denier, the desired soft feel cannot be obtained, so a filament yarn with a structure with an elongation of 70% or more is required. be.

However, yarns with too high elongation become brittle due to heat treatment, so it is preferable to use undrawn yarns with an elongation of 250% or less.

Regarding crystallinity, if the crystallinity is too high, the texture of the fabric obtained from composite yarn tends to become hard, so 3Q%
It is necessary to suppress the following.

However, undrawn yarn with a low degree of crystallinity has a high fresh water shrinkage rate and no bathochromic effect, so at least #J1795 or more is required.

The degree of crystallinity (χ) was determined by measuring the density (ρ) (g/-j) of the fiber at 25°C using a density gradient tube adjusted with n-hebutane and carbon tetracarbon. Calculated using the following formula.

It is necessary to set it to 0.7491 - - ρ, and it is particularly preferable to set it to 3% or less.

Alternatively, it may not shrink and exhibit self-extensibility.

Note that the fresh water shrinkage rate (8t4S) is measured by the following method. The sample was rotated 10 times using a length measuring machine (one rotation of 1.125 m) to prepare a total sample. Next, measure the total length by applying a light load of 1/30g per denier.Next, remove the light load, wrap it in galley to prevent contraction, and place it in a wire mesh basket while diving. After soaking for 30 minutes, take it out, drain it with a cloth, let it dry naturally, and then apply a light load to the whole thing again and measure the length.

The measurement was performed with n=5, and the average value was calculated using the following formula to represent the fresh water shrinkage rate.

B14S (%) Regarding the fresh water shrinkage rate (BWS), it is better not to shrink during the finishing process of the fabric, because it is easier for the fibers to float on the surface of the fabric and to obtain a soft feel. Necessary requirements for the highly shrinkable drawn filaments 1 to 2 to be composited with the shrinkable non-drawn filament yarn will be described.

Regarding the single fiber denier, the soft feel of the ultra-fine, low-shrinkage non-stretched filament yarn is utilized primarily as a surface touch and compression touch, while the high-shrinkage drawn filament yarn gives the fabric liveliness with a sense of drape. For this reason, the latter drawn filament yarn needs to have at least 1.2 de, and more preferably 2 de or more.

However, if it exceeds 5 de, it will become hard when made into a fabric, so it is preferably at most 5 de, and usually 2 to 3 de.

Next, the requirements necessary for the relationship between the two yarns mentioned above will be described.

The relationship between total denier is that in order to cover the surface of the fabric obtained from the composite yarn with the heat-treated undrawn yarn, the total denier of the high-shrinkage drawn filament yarn is higher than that of the heat-treated ultrafine low-shrinkage undrawn filament yarn. must be the same or smaller.

However, if the proportion of high-shrinkage drawn filament yarn is less than 20%, yarn breakage tends to increase during handling in subsequent processes, so at least 20% is required.

Further, for the same reason, the number of constituent filaments in the former is required to be 1.4 times or more greater than that in the latter.

However, if it is not up to 200 times the maximum, when it is made into a fabric, it will have a soft feel and lack drapability.If it is up to 30 times, the texture of the fabric will be more balanced.

The difference in water shrinkage (BWS) is determined by the difference in water shrinkage (BWS) after the composite yarn is made into a fabric.
In order to impart bulkiness to the fabric through heat treatment, it is necessary that the high shrinkage drawn filament yarn has a high BWS of at least 5% or more, and it is more preferable if there is a shrinkage difference of 8% or more.

However, if it is too high, shrinkage spots are likely to occur during the dyeing and finishing process, so it is preferably at most 50%.

High shrinkage drawn filament yarn is 3600m/ni
It is obtained by drawing or drawing false twisting an undrawn yarn spun at a speed of n or less at a temperature of room temperature to 85°C. Also preferably used is a polyester whose shrinkage properties are improved by copolymerizing a third component. In addition, when using interlacing when combining both yarns, if a sense of fullness is important, it is better to use a smaller number of entanglements (10 to 30 pieces/m
).On the other hand, if you want to obtain a fabric with a feeling of ground line, it is better to use a larger number of interlaces (30 to 150 pieces/m2).

Next, the method for manufacturing the composite yarn of the present invention will be described in detail by giving specific examples. The attached drawing shows one implementation of the process of obtaining the composite yarn of the present invention! I! Therefore, the ultrafine undrawn filament yarn 1 needs to be heat-treated to reduce its shrinkage in water to 5% or less, preferably 3% or less. However, if the filament yarn is stretched during the heat treatment, the degree of crystallinity will increase, and even if the filament is not stretched, the degree of crystallinity will increase if the filament is heat treated at a high temperature. However, according to the present invention, the heat treatment is divided into two stages without stretching the filament yarn, and in this case, the water shrinkage rate cannot be reduced to less than 5%. The material is heat-treated under mild conditions to reduce the water shrinkage rate while minimizing the increase in crystallinity, and then high-temperature heat treatment is applied for as short a time as possible to the structural parts where the water shrinkage rate will not decrease unless it is high-temperature heat treatment. As a result, the water shrinkage rate of the undrawn yarn 1 can be finally reduced to 5% or less. In other words, in the process shown in the drawings, rather than performing heat treatment at a high temperature for a long time using the heater 4, the first heat treatment is performed at a temperature of less than 130°C using the hot roller 3, and then the heat treatment is performed at a temperature of 3'C or more using the heater 4. high, preferably 5°C or higher and 130°C
By performing a second heat treatment at a temperature of °C or higher,
The water shrinkage rate can be reduced without increasing the crystallinity of the undrawn yarn 1 as much as possible.

Here, the second stage heat treatment is at a low temperature, so it is preferable to take a long heat treatment time, but the second stage heat treatment is at a high temperature, and the longer the heat treatment time, the higher the crystallinity tends to be, so it is kept as short as possible. It's better.

- The heat treatment time for the second stage is required to be at least 0.04 seconds or more in order to reduce the submerged shrinkage rate of the undrawn yarn and increase crystallinity, and 0.6 seconds is more than enough, which may actually slow down the production speed. Since this also has the disadvantage of being slow, it is preferable to use a plate heater or slit heater so that the heat treatment can be performed while relaxing the yarn by 1% or more, without stretching the yarn.

Regarding the heater temperature, since the heat treatment in the -th stage lowers the shrinkage rate of the unstable side passage portion where the submerged shrinkage rate tends to decrease, a very high temperature is not necessary, and the temperature is 80°C or higher, preferably 95°C or higher. , the temperature should be less than 130°C. - The heat treatment at the crab stage is to reduce the submerged shrinkage rate of the relatively stable W4 structure, so it needs to be 130°C or more, and the filament threads should not be in contact with each other. A temperature of 145 to 200° C. is applied to a plate heater for heat treatment, and a temperature of 160 to 240° C. is applied to a slit heater for heat treatment without contacting the yarn.

The processing time is usually preferably 0.1 to 0.3 seconds.

The time for the second stage 1 heat treatment is shorter than the time for the first stage heat treatment, preferably 1/2 or less.

As for the type of heater, a hot roller is advantageous since the first stage heat treatment takes a long time, and a slit heater is particularly preferred as the second stage heater.

Next, the heat-treated ultrafine low-shrinkage non-stretched filament yarn 1 is a high-shrinkage filament yarn (usually drawn yarn) having a hot water absorption a* higher by 5% or more, preferably 8% or more, and a single fiber denier of 1.2de or more. 2 and is wound up by a winder 7.

At this time, in order to improve the handling of the yarn, the doubled yarn may be supplied to the air interlacing nozzle 6 and then passed through the stepped take-up roller 5 for the interlacing process.

In this intertwining process, in order to make the single la fibers of the ultra-fine low shrinkage non-stretched filament yarns easily float on the surface of the fabric, it is better to have a small number of interlaces, 10 to 30/m, to obtain a fabric with a feeling of tightness. When the number of entanglements is desired, it is better to have a larger number of entanglements, preferably 30 to 15 pieces/m.In the case of zero conditions, in the former case, the overfeed rate is 0.5% and the compressed air pressure is 0°5 to 1 kg/c.
d. In the latter case, the overfeed rate is 15B≦ and the air pressure is preferably 2 to 4 kg/-.

Here, the undrawn yarn 1 has a single fiber denier after heat treatment of 0.8
An undrawn multifilament yarn is used that satisfies de, crystallinity of 30% or less, and residual elongation of 70% or less. Such undrawn yarn has a spinning speed of 1800 to 3
Obtained by spinning at 500m/l1in.

In addition, to eliminate the white tea feel, after making the composite yarn into m-type, use Eastllann Polyester Bl as a dye.
Using ue GLF, dye 3-4%, monodef 0.5g
/ liter of dye liquor and the ratio of MjI fiber to dye liquor is 1:1.
0 and stained in 130°C water for 60 minutes.
The values were measured and evaluated. Color perception has three attributes: hue (hue), brightness (lightness), and evenness (saturation). The L value corresponds to the lightness of these three attributes, and is common to chromatic colors and achromatic colors (white to black) in the distinction between so-called bright colors and dark colors. The brightness value is displayed in a range from 0 (lowest brightness) to 100 (highest brightness), and the lower the value, the duller the cabbage and the darker the color. L
Although the value can be directly read with a color difference meter, in the present invention, the L value was measured with a type ND-101DC color difference meter manufactured by Nihon Heavy Industries Ltd.

In addition, the softness of the texture is TIS L1096 6°20.3. Evaluation was made by bending hardness (BS) measured by C method (bending loop compression method). Then, the softness of the surface of the fabric was sensory evaluated and ranked.

[Actions and effects of the invention] (a) f! Although it is a composite yarn containing filaments of fine denier, it has no white brown feel and can provide a fabric with improved dyeability.In addition, in terms of texture, it is much softer than a composite yarn made of ultra-fine drawn yarn of the same denier. We can provide fabrics with a unique feel.

(b) A suede-like fabric can be obtained by manufacturing the composite twisted yarn as the warp and weft, and a nubuck-like aitth can be obtained by lightly raising the suede fabric by puffing. .

(C) If the compound yarn is used as the warp and a normal multifilament yarn is strongly twisted at 1,500 to 3,500 T/M as the weft, an i-product with a peach skin touch can be obtained.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn (spinning speed 300
0m/nin, denier 40de, number of filaments 72, elongation 133%, spring shrinkage rate 28%, crystallinity 10.7%) according to the process shown in the attached drawings.
Heat treatment was performed for 0.16 seconds by turning the hot roller 3 heated to 118°C 8 times, and then heat treatment was performed for 0.04 seconds while being relaxed by overfeeding the material by 2% to a slit heater heated to 2°OO°C. . The yarn properties of the heat treatment system of this undrawn yarn are 41de/72f i Is (
Single 1m fiber denier is 0.57d/f), elongation is 1
25%, spring water shrinkage rate 2%, and crystallinity degree 27%.

Next, as a drawn yarn, polyethylene terephthalate was spun at a spinning speed of 1500 m/1 ain, and then heated at 85°C.
obtained by stretching at a stretching ratio of 3 times using a heating roller of
The i
, is combined with the ms fiber low shrinkage yarn and passed through the stepped roller 5.
While overfeeding the yarn by 0.5%, the air interlace nozzle 6 was used to create 58 entanglements/m under the air pressure of 1.0 kg/-, and then the yarn was interlaced at a speed of 600 m/In.
It was wound up with In.

Using the obtained composite yarn (71 denier/84 filaments), a yarn twisted at 300 T/m in the S direction and a yarn twisted in the Z direction (both were set with vacuum steam at 75°C for 15 minutes to stop twisting) ) with a 2:2 arrangement, and a plain weave structure with a warp density of 165 threads/sun and a weft thread density of 83 threads/sun.
Weaved in size. This fabric is continuously immersed in boiling water in an expanded state to preliminarily shrink the fabric, and after drying, it is relaxed in a high-pressure washer machine at 120°C for 30 minutes, and after drying, it is heated in a pin tenter at 180°C for 45 seconds. I put it on and preset it. Then, using a paddle dyeing machine, caustic sorter 3
Weight loss treatment is performed in a 5 g/l boiling aqueous solution until the weight loss rate reaches approximately 20% (approximately 50 minutes). After drying, dyeing is performed at 130°C for 45 minutes using a perfusion dyeing machine. After drying, the pin tenter is used. A finishing setting was applied at 160° C. for 45 seconds using the same method.

The obtained 1lii1 matsu had a so-called peach skin touch texture, had a bending hardness (BS) of 0.7 g, was soft to the touch, and was characterized by softness with a feeling of compression and bulk. In addition, the exterior has a deep color, and L
The value was also small at 18, and no phenomenon was observed for Chinese cabbage.

Comparative example Polyethylene terephthalate was spun at a speed of 3900 m/n.
40 denier/72 filament spun at high speed in
A multifilament yarn with an elongation of 40%, a spring shrinkage of 38%, and a crystallinity of 14.5% was heat-treated at 165°C for 0.1 seconds while overfeeding by 0.5%, resulting in an elongation of 34% and a spring shrinkage. The thread had a crystallinity of 5% and a crystallinity of 34.3%.

Next, the yarn was combined with the highly shrinkable drawn yarn used in Example 1, and after being interlaced at 60 pieces/m with an air interlace nozzle, it was wound up.

Obtained composite yarn (71 denier/'84 filament)
The yarn was twisted at 300 T/m using the same hard-twisted yarn as the warp, and the same highly twisted yarn as in Example 1 was used as the weft, and the weaving was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1, followed by dyeing.

Although the obtained S material has a fine denier texture, its bending hardness (BS) is as high as 1.2 g, and the surface touch is also very soft compared to the i#1 material of Example 1. It was not possible to reach that area. Also, the appearance is Llii is 27
The Chinese cabbage was large and lacked a sense of luxury.

Example 2 Using the same composite yarn as in Example 1, two yarns were combined and the number of twists was 200.
7/m twisted yarn is used for the warp and weft, with a plain weave structure,
It was woven at a warp density of 84 yarns/dimensional and a weft yarn density of 93 yarns/dimensional.

This fabric is continuously immersed in boiling water in an expanded state to preliminarily shrink the fabric. After drying, it is relaxed in hot water at 100°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine. The fabric was preset for 45 seconds at
Reduction treatment is carried out in a t/l boiling solution until the JL reduction rate becomes approximately 15% (approximately 25 minutes), and after drying, dyeing is carried out using a jet dyeing machine at a temperature of 130°C for 45 minutes, and a pin tenter is used. A finishing set was applied for 45 seconds.

The resulting fabric is supple, full, and resilient.
It had a dense thin brushed texture and a soft texture similar to suede leather.Even when the zero bending hardness (BS) was measured, it showed a small value of 0.8 g. In addition, the phenomenon was not observed in Chinese cabbage either.
It had a deep, calm hue. Even when the L value was measured, it showed a small value of 18.

It was a feeling.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

The drawings are process diagrams showing one embodiment for obtaining the composite yarn of the present invention. In the figure, 1 is an undrawn yarn, 2 is a drawn yarn, 3 is a hot roller, and 4
5 is a slit heater, 5 is a stepped take-up roller, 6 is an air entangling nozzle, and 7 is a winding device.

Claims (1)

[Claims] Single fiber denier is 0.8 de or less, crystallinity (χ_ρ
) is 30% or less, residual elongation is 70% or more, and boiling water shrinkage is 5% or less. Ultra-fine, low-shrinkage non-stretched filament yarn with a single fiber denier of 1.2 de or more and a total denier that is the same as that of the low-shrinkage yarn. or a small high shrinkage drawn filament yarn, the number of constituent filaments of the former being 1 more than that of the latter.
．． Composite yarn with improved color changeability and soft feel, characterized by being composited in a state where the amount is 4 times or more.