JPH0340876A - Stone wash-tone processing of coated silk woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain silk products having uniform wrinkles, stone wash tone and wind resistance free from unevenness of friction mark form by subjecting silk woven or knitted fabric to water-repellent treatment, coating one side of the fabric with a resin, tucking and subjecting to rubbing treatment with a washer. CONSTITUTION:Silk woven or knitted fabric is previously subjected to water- repellent treatment, one side of the silk woven or knitted fabric is coated with a resin (e.g. acrylic or urethane-based resin), the silk fiber is protected, the silk woven or knitted fabric is tucked, bagged, subjected to rubbing processing by a rotary washer and dried by a tumbler to give a silk product of stone wash tone having uniform wrinkles, both wind resistance and water resistance and characteristic silk touch free from uneven friction mark form.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a method for stonewashing coated products of silk woven and knitted materials, and more specifically, to provide a novel appearance free from rope-like wrinkles and scratch-shaped spots. The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a suede-like outer material that has a texture and is also windproof and water resistant.

(Prior Art and Problems) Conventionally, the stonewashed finish that gives natural cotton a washed-out and worn-in feel has been achieved by hitting the fabric with stones, sticks, etc. Although this method does not cause wrinkles and provides a very natural texture, it has the problem that it cannot be industrially mass-produced.

Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, industrially, a stone-washed finish has been achieved by rubbing the fabric with a jet dyer, a wince, a rotary washer, etc.

In particular, the rotary washer creates a kneading effect without tension, resulting in a natural-looking finish.
It has been adopted within the shell. This rotary washer can process evaporated materials such as cotton, nylon, polyester, acetate,
It is widely applied to materials such as rayon, but when applied to high-end products such as silk woven and knitted fabrics, rope-like wrinkles and scuffed spots become noticeable, resulting in the problem that only products with low commercial value can be produced. Ta.

As a solution to this problem, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-711761
The publication describes a method of using steam instead of hot water as a heat medium for a rotary water cooler, and Jikai 1868-1
Publication No. 69664 proposes a method in which a textile is wrapped in a back-and-over winding, stitched at several places on both edges, and then processed with a rotary washer with an elastic buffer placed inside the back-and-over winding. However, when these methods are applied to silk woven or knitted fabrics, there is a problem in that rubbing-shaped spots occur due to the tendency of silk A-knitted fabrics to form fibrils.

The present invention was made in order to solve the above-mentioned problems when performing a stonewash finish on silk woven and knitted materials using a rotary warashir. The object of the present invention is to provide a method for finishing a stonewashed silk woven product, which is a coated product that is windproof, water resistant, and has a soft touch unique to silk.

(Means for solving the problem) The above object is to apply a resin to one side of the silk woven or knitted fabric after subjecting it to water challenge treatment as a pretreatment, and then tucking the silk woven or knitted fabric. This is achieved by a stonewash-like processing method for coated silk woven and knitted fabrics, which is characterized in that the knitted fabrics are packaged in bags, rubbed with a rotary wall sealer, and then dried in a tumble dryer.

Further, the present invention will be described in detail.

The M-woven and knitted fabrics used in the method of the present invention include woven and knitted fabrics made by using raw silk or spun silk alone, or blending or interweaving these with other natural fibers or synthetic fibers, and the warps constituting these A-fiber structures. The count and density of the cotton yarn are not particularly limited as long as they do not cause tissue disturbance when processed with a rotary washer.

Further, the composition ratio of silk in the silk jam product is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain the soft feel peculiar to silk, a composition ratio of 50% or more is preferable. The silk woven or knitted fabric is then subjected to pretreatments such as desizing, scouring, and dyeing by known methods.

In the method of the present invention, the water repellent used as a pretreatment suppresses the penetration of the resin into the fibers when applying 1M oil to one side, does not harden JaM itself, and further improves the adhesion of the applied resin. There is no particular limitation as long as it does not damage the material, but usually natural waxes and their derivatives, synthetic waxes that are solid esters consisting of higher fatty acids and higher alcohols, polyolefin compounds, cationic amine compounds, fluorine-containing acrylic resins, etc. An emulsion-type water repellent is used, and the amount used is 0.6 to 1 (1 weight fi% is good) based on the weight of the M4m knitted fabric. Softeners and dye fixing agents may be added as necessary.When applying a water repellent to Joki silk@knitted fabrics, a conventional pad device is used and drying is carried out according to a conventional method.

In the method of the present invention, the resin applied to one side may include acrylic, urethane, epoxy, polyester,
Examples include emulsilone or an organic solvent solution of prepolymers such as natural polymers and compounds to be resinized such as polymers alone or in combination or copolymers. Also, when applying,
This is thickened with a thickener or thinned with S dilution, and then applied. When applying the resin, there is no particular limitation as long as it can uniformly apply the resin to one side of the silk woven or knitted material, but it is usually a knife coater or a gravure coater.
An air knife coater or the like is used, and after application, drying is performed according to a conventional method or, if necessary, Kie7 ringing is performed.

Furthermore, if necessary to improve water resistance and water repellency, emulsion IM water repellent agents such as silicone-based dimethylpolysiloxane and its derivatives, fluorine-containing agents, acrylic compounds, etc. may be used alone or in combination with ordinary pads. After application using a device and drying according to a conventional method, air ringing is performed and post-drainage treatment is performed. Also, during processing,
In order to achieve the above purpose more effectively, we have developed a method for using resins such as glyoxal plum oil and melamine resin, their catalysts, and penetrating agents.
It is possible to use

The tucking method referred to in the method of the present invention may be a method in which the silk woven or knitted fabric is divided at the seam, folded into two sheets with the width direction as an axis, and then the selvedges are loosely bound with thread. hanging,
It is also possible to loosely bind the edges with thread.

Materials such as polyester, nylon, hemp, etc. can be used for the bags used in the method of the present invention, but polyester nets are preferred because they are less abrasive to silk or knitted fabrics.

The processing conditions for the rotary washer used in the method of the present invention are a rotation speed of 25 to 45 revolutions/min, and a bath ratio of 1:50 to 1:
300. Set temperature 60~100'C and set time 5~
The range of 80 minutes is preferable, and the rotation speed is 30 to 40 revolutions/minute.
Bath ratio 1:100-1:200, set temperature 500-60℃
More preferably, the setting time is 30 to 60 minutes. If the above processing conditions are outside the range, wrinkles may appear unevenly, and r
Defects such as pilling may occur on the surface of the Al material. Furthermore, if you want to emphasize the stone-washed look, it is preferable to put pebbles, pumice, 1 < dick balls, etc. into the rotary washer.

(Function) In the present invention, before the rolling process, a resin is applied to one side of the silk woven or knitted fabric, so this resin acts as a protective layer for the silk fiber bundles, and since the silk fiber bundles are further tucked and packed into bags, the rolling process The impact force of hot water on MA fibers can be weakened. Therefore, excessive fibrillation of the silk woven or knitted material is prevented, and as a result, a high-quality product without rope wrinkles or chafed shapes can be obtained.

(Example) Next, the method of the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples.

As shown in Table 1, silk fabrics of type 5W1 were desized, scoured, and dyed according to conventional methods.

Table 1 Example 1 Using a putting device, 5 layers of fatty acid amide water repellent (manufactured by Sandoz ■, Serol EWL, solid content 20%) were applied! 1%, dye fixing agent (manufactured by Ciba Geigy, Tenofix E
W) Apply a processing liquid of 1% by weight and the balance of water to 100% with a pick-up rate of 80%, and dry it with an infrared dryer to 130"
Dry for cxao seconds.

Next, a coating resin liquid having the following composition was applied at 26 g/m'' using a one-sided knife coater type coating device, and then dried at 140” CX for 20 seconds using a tenter type dryer.

Boncoat) E8226 100 copies (manufactured by Dainippon Ink ■, acrylic emulsion seal) Boncoat! $
750 3 parts (manufactured by Dainippon Ink ■, polyacrylic acid thickener) 25% ammonia water
0.2 parts Viscosity 111000cps (B
M-type viscometer) Furthermore, in a puffing device, a 7-weight fluorine-based water repellent (manufactured by Miki Riken Kogyo, Pararesin FGX/K) and a polyethylene softener (manufactured by Kanebo NN30,
Yodozol PE400) 2 weight deaf, the amount of isopropyl alcohol sN as a penetrant, the balance was made 100% with water, and after applying the processing liquid at a pickup rate of 65%, it was dried in an infrared dryer at 150°C for 30 seconds. did. Thereafter, dry heat treatment was performed at 160°C for 3 minutes using a curing device.

Next, divide the silk fabric coated with the finishing agent at the seams, fold it into two sheets with the coated side facing inward along the width direction, and divide the selvage into 10 pieces.
It was loosely bound with thread at cm intervals. Thereafter, the tuffed silk fabric was placed in a polyester net and placed in a rotary washer. Processing conditions for rotary washer are 60
Rotating valve, bath ratio 1:100. The rolling process was carried out at a temperature of 60° C. for 1 hour and 50 minutes. Thereafter, the silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Example 2 Fluorine water repellent (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd., Sumiflu Oil EM21, solid content 17%) 71i was applied using a putting device.
ffil dye fixing agent (manufactured by Ciba Geigy, Suprafix EW) 1ml 1%, polyethylene fabric softener (
Manufactured by Kanebo N80■, Yodozol PE400) 2T
Add a machining liquid with a pick-up rate of 60% and dry the remaining part with water to 13% in a dryer with infrared rays.
It was dried at 0°aXδ for 0 seconds. Furthermore, dry heat treatment was performed for 150'exa minutes using a kiss ring device.

Next, 30 g/ml of a coating resin liquid consisting of a manure composition was applied using a knife coater type coating device, and then dried for 140" CXlS seconds using a tenter type dryer.

0RI8COAT P-Hlljl 1
00 parts (manufactured by Dainippon Ink ■, acrylic, toluene solvent)
ORI8VON 0L-is 5 parts (manufactured by Dainippon Ink ■, crosslinking agent, toluene solvent) Viscosity 3
2000 cps (BM type viscometer) Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seams, tacked in the same manner as in Example 1, placed in a polyvinyl chill net, and placed in a rotary washer.

The processing conditions of the rotary scymmer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 1 In the same manner as in Example 1, first water-repellent finishing, coating, and subsequent water-repellent finishing were performed.

The finished silk fabric was then divided at the seams, placed in a polyester net without shoeing, and placed in a rotary shoe shim. The processing conditions of the rotary shoe shimmer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1.
The hindlimb tissues were dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative Example 2 In the same manner as in Example 2, first water-repellent finishing, coating, and post-water sandwiching were carried out.

The finished silk fabric was then divided at the seams, placed in a polyester net without tuffing, and placed in a rotary shimmer. The processing conditions of the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rubbing process was performed therein.
The hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

Comparative example 5 In the same manner as in Example 1, a water repellent finish was applied first and a water sandwiching process was applied afterwards.

Next, the silk fabric to which the finishing agent was applied was divided at the seam, and Example 1
The material was tuffed in the same manner as above, placed in a polyester net, and placed in a rotary shoe simmer. The processing conditions in the rotary washer were the same as in Example 1, and the rolling process was carried out therein, and the resulting hindlimb silk fabric was dried in a tumble dryer.

The obtained stonewash: LIE11 repellent finished product was evaluated as follows.

The appearance was determined by visual observation by 10 specialized inspectors. The criteria for this judgment are as follows.

O: Excellent wrinkle uniformity and no scratch-shaped spots.

Δ: The uniformity of wrinkles is slightly poor, and there are some scratch-shaped spots.

×: The uniformity of wrinkles is poor, and there are scratch-shaped spots.

The results of these evaluations are shown in Table 2.

(The following are 5 results) ＼、″-1 As is clear from Table 2, after coating, the product was tacked, packed in bags, rubbed with a rotary shoe shimmer, and then dried with a tumble dryer. The product has excellent wrinkle uniformity and is free from scratch-shaped spots.

In addition, air permeability was tested for windproof property, and water pressure resistance was tested for water resistance using the following test methods. The test results are shown in Table 3.

1) Air permeability JI8L-1079 Frazier type 3A test machine industry) Water pressure resistance JIS L-1078A method-a Table 5 shows that by coating, water pressure resistance can be improved.
It can be seen that the performance and water resistance are even better.

(Effect of the invention) As detailed above, according to the method of the present invention, the following /2
be effective.

In other words, by applying 1i14, which coats one side of silk with resin and then tucking and flossing it, it has uniform wrinkles, a raised state with no scratches, windproofness, and water resistance, and is also anti-machine. It is possible to obtain a stonewashed silk product that has a texture unique to silk.

Its texture and appearance are completely new, and it has a washed-out, rough appeal.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) After pre-treating the silk woven and knitted fabric to make it water repellent, one side of the silk woven and knitted fabric was coated with a resin, and then the tacked silk woven and knitted fabric was packed in bags and rubbed with a rotary washer. A method for stonewashing coated silk woven and knitted fabrics, which is then dried in a tumble dryer.