JPH0340877A - Bonding padding cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain bonding padding cloth suitable for thin woven fabric by coating the surface of woven fabric using falsely twisted textured yarn, showing a sum of cover factors in the warp direction and weft direction of a specific value and extension ratio of a specific value with a synthetic resin adhesive. CONSTITUTION:A synthetic resin adhesive such as polyamide-based or polyester- based adhesive is applied to one side of woven fabric which is woven by using polyester falsely twisted textured yarn having 0.1-30d average single yarn fineness, 20-150d total fineness, 15-35% elongation recovery and 150-750 fluffs with >=1mm length/10m and 700-1,400sum of cover factor in the warp direction and weft direction and 10-35% extension ratio at least in one direction to give flexible padding cloth suitable as bonding padding cloth useful for thin woven fabric of woman dress having softness and excellent peel strength.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to interlining for clothing. Specifically, the present invention relates to an adhesive interlining that is preferably used for thin fabrics having women's clothing materials at the top.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, interlining fabrics made by subjecting woven fabrics containing crimped yarns to resin processing have been known. For example, an interlining that adheres to the inner surface of clothing, at least the weft of the interlining is a synthetic fiber crimped yarn or bulky yarn, and one side of the interlining is made of a heat-sealable and solvent-stable material. A special interlining material for clothing characterized by having a network layer of
16, or an interlining in which a thermoplastic resin is coated on one side of a woven fabric containing crimped yarn, in which the total fineness of the fibers constituting the woven fabric is 2Q to 10.
0 denier, single yarn fineness of 5 denier or less, the total crimp rate of the crimped fiber is 15 to 40%, and the elongation under a load of 500 g/am width is 15 to 40% in at least one direction, KE
A clothing interlining characterized by an LT value of 0°7 or less according to the S method is known from Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 62-97937.

(Problem to be Solved by the Invention) However, the above-mentioned conventional adhesive interlining made of crimped yarn has improved ability to follow the dimensional changes of the face material when bonded to the face material. The thick and fluffy feel peculiar to processed yarn cannot be eliminated. In addition, since the crimped yarn does not have fuzz, it has the soft texture of fuzz,
When bonded to the surface material using a thermoplastic resin, there is no anchoring effect of the fluff, resulting in poor peeling resistance, and the thermoplastic resin tends to ooze out onto the non-adhesive surface of the interlining.

On the other hand, in recent years, there has been a trend toward softer textures, thinner fabrics, and lighter weights, especially for outerwear materials for women's clothing, and in terms of materials, efforts have been made to use composite materials such as natural fibers and synthetic fibers. There is an increasing need for adhesive interlining suitable for these materials to have a soft texture that does not impair the texture of the outer material, be thinner, and be lighter in weight.
Rub resistance, washing resistance, etc. are becoming important product characteristics.

However, conventional woven adhesive interlinings have been designed with emphasis on performance and physical properties, and none have been particularly satisfactory in terms of softness and thinness.

The purpose of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, and in particular, to provide softness, thinness, and lightness necessary for adhesive interlining whose outer material is a thin material mainly used for women's clothing. It is an object of the present invention to provide an adhesive interlining made of a thin woven fabric using a polyester false-twisted yarn having fluff, which has improved followability with the surface material and peeling resistance.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The structure of the present invention that achieves the above object is as follows. In other words, it is a fabric using polyester false-twisted yarn, and the sum of the cover factors in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 70.
0 to 1400, and the elongation rate in at least one direction is 10
~35%, and is an adhesive interlining characterized by having fluff on the surface of the fabric and having a synthetic resin adhesive coated on at least one side.

In addition, in the above structure, the polyester false twisted yarn is
It is preferable that the following requirements (1) to (4) are satisfied.

■ Single yarn fineness: 0.1-3. Od ■ Total fineness: 20-150d ■ Elasticity recovery rate: 15-35% ■ Fuzz: 150-750 pieces/10 m However, the number of fuzz is such that the length of the fuzz protruding from the yarn surface is 1.0 mm or more. .

The above-mentioned polyester false twisted yarn can be used for both the warp yarn and the weft yarn, or can be used only for the warp yarn or only the weft yarn.

The fibers constituting the adhesive interlining in the present invention include polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, tertiary
Any polyester fiber containing a component, such as so-called modified polystyl, may be used.

In order to produce the polyester false-twisted yarn having fluff on the surface of the fabric, a method that combines physical and chemical fluffing during or after false-twisting can be preferably employed.

At this time, the false twisted yarn is a multifilament yarn with a total fineness of 20 to 150 d, and a single yarn fineness of 0°1 to 3. Preferably, it is Od. If the constituent denier is less than 20 d, the strength will be insufficient overall, including a decrease in the tear strength of the adhesive interlining. On the other hand, if it exceeds 150 d, the thickness of the adhesive interlining increases and tends to lack thinness and softness, limiting the range of application to surface materials. Also, the single yarn fineness is 0.1
If it is less than d, the softness is satisfactory, but the adhesive interlining tends to lack adequate tension and firmness, and if it exceeds 3.0d, the softness will be impaired and it will become stiff. In addition, the requirement that the stretch recovery rate be 15 to 35% is effective in imparting appropriate bulge and stretch to the adhesive interlining; if it is less than 15%, the above effect will decrease, and if it exceeds 35%, it will cause the characteristic of false twisted yarn. It has a strong texture and fluffy feel. Furthermore, the number of fluff is
The requirement that the length of fluff protruding from the yarn surface is 150 to 750 pieces/10 m of 1.0 mm or more is that when bonded to the surface material, the adhesiveness due to the anchor effect of the fluff improves, and the anti-peeling property is improved. At the same time, it is possible to prevent the thermoplastic resin from seeping into the non-adhesive surface of the interlining. Furthermore, the fluff gives off a soft texture. Number of fuzz: 150/10
If the number is less than m, the above effect will be reduced, and if it exceeds 750, the surface of the adhesive interlining will become blurred and will tend to cause pilling.

Using false-twisted yarn that satisfies the above requirements, the fabric woven in warp, weft, or warp and weft is scoured and dyed to a finish with a sum of cover factors in the warp and weft directions of 700. ~1400, and the adhesive interlining base fabric has an elongation rate in at least one direction of 10 to 35%.

If the above cover factor requirement is less than 700, wrinkles will easily occur during the dyeing and finishing process, and if the cover factor is less than 1400,
If it exceeds the density, the density will be close to that of conventional ordinary fabrics, the feeling of thickness will increase, and the thinness, softness, and stretchability will decrease.

Furthermore, the requirement for an elongation rate of 10 to 35% is effective in imparting flexibility, softness, repulsion, elasticity, etc. to the composite bonded to the surface material, and in the case of a stretchable surface material. , the ability to follow dimensional changes of the surface material is good. When the elongation rate is less than 10%, the above effects are reduced, and when it is more than 35%, the dimensional stability and shape retention are reduced.

The factors that determine the elongation rate of the fabric are the elasticity recovery rate of the false twisted yarn, the cover factor (K) of the fabric greige,
There are also heat shrinkage for dyeing finish and tentering rate for finishing set, and the desired elongation rate can be set by combining these.

The texture of the fabric may be plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc.
A plain weave is preferable due to the wrinkles and thinness of the wall.

As the synthetic resin adhesive applied to the base fabric as an adhesive interlining, any synthetic resin adhesive such as polyamide, polyester, or polyvinyl chloride can be used, and the type of adhesive and adhesion The amount, application shape, etc. do not matter, but consideration must be given to ensure that sufficient adhesion is obtained without interfering with the soft texture and flexibility of the adhesive interlining.

Example 50 denier, 24 filament highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn drawn at a spinning speed of 3000 m/min (
POY) is made into unevenly drawn yarn by low draw ratio out-draw,
When continuing the false twisting process, the heater temperature is 220℃.
, 30 denier, 18 under false twist number 3700T/m
After the unstretched portions of the unevenly drawn yarn are weakened by heat deterioration by aligning them with the relatively high elongation drawn yarn of the filament and making them weak, the weak points are cut using compressed air and fluffed. At the same time, a false twisted thread having the following physical properties was obtained by interlacing and converging.

Total fineness: 60 denier Number of single yarns: 42 Filament expansion/contraction recovery rate: 26.5% Number of fuzz: 285 pieces/10m The above false twisted yarn was woven in both the warp and weft, with a warp yarn density of 50 strands/inch and a weft At a thread density of 50 threads/inch, the sum of the cover factors in the warp direction and weft direction (K = warp thread density x I warp thread fineness 10 weft thread density x I weft thread fineness) is 77
A plain woven fabric of No. 5 was obtained.

When dyeing and finishing the hand-woven fabric, in the relaxing scouring to intermediate setting process, sufficient heat shrinkage of the fabric in the vertical and horizontal directions is caused before dyeing, and the elongation rate in the horizontal direction is 25% in the finishing set. I set the width so that it would look like this.

The obtained adhesive interlining base fabric had an elongation rate in the weft direction of 10%, a warp thread density of 63 threads/inch, a weft thread density of 55 threads/inch,
The sum of the cover factors in the vertical and horizontal directions was 914.

The base fabric has good fluff on its surface, giving it a soft texture, and also has an average bending stiffness value of 0.00 as measured by the bending stiffness measuring machine "KES-F2" manufactured by Kato Iron Works.
Softness of 5g-cd/cffl and thickness of 0.20m
It satisfied the thinness of m. Furthermore, 40 dots/1 nch2 of copolymerized polyamide adhesive resin was applied to the base fabric to form an adhesive interlining.
% / 15% cotton plain weave as outer material, press at 140℃
It was joined with

The peeling strength between the surface material and the interlining was 380 g/25 mm, which was satisfactory.

In addition, the number of fuzz was measured using a fly counter (manufactured by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd., model DT-1O4 sensor span), applying a tension of 0.1 g/d to the test yarn with a gate tensor, and applying a tension of 10 m / m i to the test yarn. While continuously pulling at a speed of n, the guide of the sensor is sequentially changed from 0 (zero) with a dial gauge, and the dial gauge scale Amm at which the number of fuzz becomes the maximum is determined. When measuring the number of fluffs with a fluff length of 1.0 mm or more using Amn+ as the yarn surface, set the dial gauge scale to A+1.0+m, measure the number of fluffs over a period of 10 m 20 times under the same conditions as above, and take the average value. Let be the number of fluff.

The elongation rate is JIS-L-1096-6, 14: elongation.

Stretchability of cotton fabric, according to method B (constant load method).

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the adhesive interlining of the present invention satisfies the softness and thinness required of an adhesive interlining whose outer material is a thin fabric made of women's clothing material, and Even when it is bonded to a surface material to make clothing, it can provide elasticity and repellency while maintaining flexibility and softness. In addition, even when subjected to shrinkage caused by heat, water, solvents, etc. during washing and dry cleaning after wearing, there is no generation of wrinkles or partial peeling, and there is little decrease in peel strength, which satisfies the properties generally required for interlining. In particular, when bonded to a fabric made of a polyester material for the outer material, washability can be exhibited.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] (1) A fabric using polyester false twisted yarn, which has a sum of cover factors in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction of 700 to 700.
1400, and the elongation rate in at least one direction is 10 to 3
5%, has fluff on the surface of the fabric, and is coated with a synthetic resin adhesive on at least one side. (2) The polyester false-twisted yarn has the following (1) to (
The adhesive interlining according to claim 1, characterized in that it satisfies the requirement 4). (1) Single yarn fineness: 0.1-3.0d (2) Total fineness: 20-150d (3) Elasticity recovery rate: 15-35% (4) Number of fuzz: 150-750 pieces/10m However, the number of fuzz is , the length of the fluff protruding from the yarn surface is 1.0
mm or more.