JPH0357974B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a slub yarn having knots (slab portions) intermittently along the longitudinal axis of the thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn.

Slab yarns have a distinctive appearance and feel when used in knitted fabrics, and have thus far been made using various methods.

However, conventional slub yarns are produced using a low-productivity method of forming a slab with two or more yarns using a design twisting machine, or by so-called false twisting, which is called phase difference false twisting or free false twisting. This was obtained by feeding one yarn while winding another yarn around it, heat setting it in this state, transporting it to an untwisting area, and winding the two yarns without separating them. The slub yarn made by this method is 2
A slab part is formed by using threads of more than one thread and wrapping the core thread around the core thread, so that this slab part moves during the subsequent weaving, weaving and preparation processes and changes into a net shape. In addition, the guide, reed, etc. may become stuck, causing various troubles. In addition, the stability of the slub portion is better as the number of twists and false twists in the twisted yarn is higher, so the slub portion must necessarily be a highly twisted yarn, and fabrics made from such slub yarns have a poor texture. It had become hard and had a strong slick feel to it. Furthermore, since the slub yarn produced by phase difference false twisting imparts crimps to the threads due to the false twisting, the fabric made therefrom lacks drapability. Additional twisting (approximately 300 to 500 T/
Currently, M) is being implemented. This makes the texture even harder.

An object of the present invention is to provide a slub yarn that improves these conventional drawbacks, that is, a slub yarn that does not move in the slub portion, has a soft feel, and can provide a fabric with excellent drapability.

That is, the present invention is a yarn composed of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn containing a single filament in which an unstretched part and a stretched part are mixed, and a slab part having a twist of 70 T/M or more. The present invention relates to a slab yarn characterized in that unstretched portions are concentrated in the center of the slab portion, and stretched portions are formed on the outer periphery, or the stretched portions and stretched filaments are entangled as floating threads to form a slab portion.

The slab yarn of the present invention will be explained below with reference to the drawings.

The slab yarn of the present invention includes two types: one in which the twist is formed only in the same direction and one in which the twist is formed alternately in the S direction and the Z direction. As shown in Figure 1, the yarn has slab parts intermittently in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the state of each of these parts in the cross-sectional direction is as shown in Figures 2 and 3 A, B, and C. In the slab part, as shown in Fig. 2, the undrawn part 1 of the filament forms the core yarn, and the outer periphery of the undrawn part 1 of the filament is the stretched part 2 or the stretched part and the drawn filament are entwined around the core yarn as a floating yarn, and one strand is formed. Looking at the longitudinal direction of the filament yarns, some are floating yarns that are wound around the outer periphery, some that have partially entered the core yarn and become floating yarns again, and others. Twisted yarns come in various forms, including those intertwined with floating filaments.

Next, the area without a slab is formed almost only of the stretched filament 2 as shown in Figure 3A, or it is formed of a mixture of the stretched part 2 and unstretched part 1 as shown in B, or it is formed of the stretched filament 2 as shown in FIG. As shown in FIG.

In addition, as shown in Fig. 4, the slub yarn having alternate twists in the S direction and the Z direction, which is another yarn form, has a structure similar to that in Fig. 2, and the slub portion has a structure similar to that shown in Fig. 2. It is formed as a twisted yarn, but in addition to the structures shown in Figure 3 A, B, and C, the part without slabs has a lightly twisted state of S or Z of 70T/M or less, or a fiber with zero twist. The threads are arranged relatively parallel to each other, and have stretched and unstretched parts that are in various mixed states but do not form slabs.

The slub yarn of the present invention is produced by giving a real twist of 70 T/M or more to a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn containing single filaments in which undrawn portions and stretched portions coexist, or by false twisting under specific conditions. and then a relaxation heat treatment.

The yarn serving as the starting material in the present invention is a long fiber yarn (filament yarn) of thermoplastic synthetic fiber as shown in FIG. are mixed randomly to form an undrawn yarn portion 3, and together with the drawn yarn portion 4 form a thread, and the length of the undrawn portion is 5 mm or more.
Contains objects with a diameter of 100 mm or less.

Either apply a real twist of 70T/M or more to such long fiber yarn (twisting method), or set the heater temperature to a temperature within the range of 150℃ above the room temperature of the processing room, and set the number of false twists T≦0.7 { (23000/√)+590} to create a yarn with a large residual torque (false twisting method). Next, the slub yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting these yarns to dry heat or wet heat relaxation treatment. Due to this relaxation treatment, the difference in thermal shrinkage between the unstretched part and the stretched part of the fiber yarn, that is, the low shrinkage characteristic of the stretched part and the high shrinkage characteristic of the unstretched part, causes the unstretched part to gather relatively in the center. Is the core thread formed, sometimes fused, and the stretched part protrudes from the outer periphery and surrounds the core thread to form a slab part, with twists in the same direction of 70T/M or more? (twisting method), or alternately having S and Z twists (false twisting method)). In addition, the non-slab part has twists in the same direction (twisting method), or S, Z
The filaments are alternately twisted or the filaments are arranged relatively parallel (false twisting method).

When a so-called "thick-and-thin" yarn is used as a starting material, even if it contains unstretched parts, the unstretched parts are concentrated at one point in the lengthwise direction of the yarn. Even if it is applied, it will not become a slub yarn like the present invention, but a mere twisted yarn.

Furthermore, if the length of all the unstretched parts is 5 mm or less, the effect as a slub yarn is insufficient, and the length of the unstretched part is preferably 5 mm or more, preferably 10 mm or more. In addition, if the length of the unstretched part is 100 mm or more, there will be parts in the cross-sectional direction where the ratio of unstretched filament in the cross-sectional direction is 90% or more, and these parts will be removed during the relaxation heat treatment process. This is undesirable as it tends to cause problems with thread breakage during the weaving and weaving processes. That is, the yarn used in the present invention is
The length of the unstretched portions is preferably 5 mm or more and 100 mm or less, and it is preferable that the unstretched portions are not concentrated and are randomly mixed in the cross-sectional direction.

Further, the frequency of occurrence of undrawn yarn portions 3 is preferably 50 or less per 1 m, which exhibits a preferable slab effect. If the number exceeds 50 per meter, problems such as yarn breakage in the relaxation heat treatment process, yarn breakage and holes in the knitting and weaving process occur, which is not preferable.

Next, regarding the twisted yarn in the method of the present invention, if the number of twists is less than 70T/M, a sufficient slub effect cannot be imparted to the yarn after the relaxation heat treatment, and the yarn becomes pulpy over the entire length of the yarn. The number of twists is preferably 70 T/M or more in order to form a slub yarn. In addition, if the number of twists is 800T/M or more, slabs will not appear, and the preferred number of twists is 300T/M.
In the range of M to 500T/M, the slab effect can be exhibited most within this range. On the other hand, in the method using false twisting torque, S and Z twists occur alternately in the yarn length direction due to the torque force developed in the relaxation heat treatment step, and the number of S and Z twists is equivalent to 70T/M or more,
The false twisting processing conditions should be such that there is an S or Z twist equivalent to 800T/M or less. Furthermore, it is necessary to perform the false twisting under temperature conditions that do not destroy the shrinkage performance of the yarn.

Next, the treatment temperature in the relaxation heat treatment is preferably higher than the temperature at which fiber shrinkage occurs, and is preferably in the range of 150 to 230 °C in dry heat treatment and 80 to 130 °C in wet heat treatment. Regarding the relaxation rate, if it is less than 10%, sufficient slab effect cannot be achieved, and as an upper limit, the range of overfeed rate that leads to poor running due to thread sagging in the relaxation treatment area can be used, but if the relaxation rate is 10%, % to 30% is a preferred range.

As described above, since the slub yarn of the present invention is formed from one long fiber yarn, unlike the conventional slub yarn formed from two yarns, the slub yarn of the present invention is susceptible to misalignment between the core yarn and the wrapped yarn. There is no movement, the slab part is stable, and it is a slab yarn with a low twist number and has a soft texture. On the other hand, the false-twisted torque-based slub yarn is a so-called temporary torque yarn that is not strongly crimped, that is, it is processed under conditions of low temperature and low twist number that would normally be unthinkable. A fabric with a thick thread texture remains and has good drape properties. Furthermore, the fact that the yarn is a mixture of unstretched and stretched parts gives the color depth and is effective in dyed products, and since the slab part includes unstretched parts, dyed Since the fabric is dyed deeply, the effect of highlighting the slab is further enhanced, resulting in a fabric with a new appearance and texture.

Next, examples will be shown.

Example 1 A polyester fiber yarn in which stretched parts and unstretched parts were randomly mixed, and each unstretched part had a length of 40 mm.
mm or less, the average length of the undrawn portion is 5 mm, the ratio of undrawn filaments in any cross section of the undrawn yarn portion is 5 to 80%, and the undrawn yarn portion is 1 mm.
The strength is 3.7 g/d with 5 to 40 yarns per m.
Elongation is 81%, boiling shrinkage is 18%, and U% is 4%.
Using 150 denier 48 filament yarn, the yarn was subjected to actual twist T=Z300T/M and continuously heated at a temperature of 220℃.
Dry heat relaxation heat treatment was performed at a relaxation rate of +20%.

The undrawn yarn part of the obtained yarn becomes a slab part,
The apparent diameter ratio of the slab part and the non-slab part is approximately
3.2 times, an average of about 7 slabs were generated per 1 m of yarn length, and the average length of the slabs was 20 mm.

When the slub yarn was woven, there was no movement of the slub during the process, and a soft, silky-touch slub-containing fabric with excellent drapability in dyed finished products was obtained.

Example 2 Using the same polyester fiber yarn as in Example 1, adding actual twist T = Z400T/M and performing skein dyeing at 130°C, the undrawn yarn part became a slab part,
The apparent diameter ratio of the slab part and the non-slab part is 2.6
The average length of the slab portion was 15 mm, and an average of 7 slab portions were generated per 1 m of yarn length. In the slab part, the unstretched part is located relatively in the center, and the stretched part stands out around it and entangles or wraps around the core yarn, while the unstretched part is formed with a length of 5 mm or less. The thread part did not form a slab, but instead became a non-slab part in which unstretched parts and stretched parts coexisted.

When the yarn-dyed slub yarn was woven, the fabric was soft and had a firm drape.

Example 3 A polyester multifilament yarn with a triangular cross-section yarn having the same unstretched portion distribution as Example 1 and three hollow portions extending continuously along its length, with an elongation of 81. %, with a twisting machine to 75 denier 24 filament yarn, which has a boil shrinkage rate of 14%
When twisting at 500T/M was followed by relaxation heat treatment at a dry heat temperature of 180°C with a relaxation rate of 18% and a treatment time of 0.5 seconds, an average of 5 slabs were generated per 1 m, and the slab part and The apparent diameter ratio of the non-slab yarn is 1.7 times, and the average length of the slab part is 15 mm, giving it a soft yet crisp feel. A jersey knitted fabric with little feel and a desirable appearance as a slub yarn for knitting was obtained.

Example 4 Using the same thread as in Example 1, using a twisting machine
When Z200T/M was added and this was followed by a relaxation heat treatment at 190°C, relaxation rate +20%, and aging time of 0.5 seconds, 10 slab parts were generated per 1 m of yarn length, and the slab part and slab A slab yarn with an apparent diameter ratio of 3.5 times and an average slab length of 20 mm was obtained.

Example 5 Using the same polyester fiber yarn 150 denier 48 filament as in Example 1, the number of false twists was Z1390T/M,
False-twisting was performed at a false-twisting heater temperature of 80°C and a false-twisting feed rate of ±0%, followed by a relaxation heat treatment temperature of 220°C.
When the relaxation heat treatment was performed at a relaxation rate of +17.5°C and a treatment time of 0.5 seconds, S-twisted portions and Z-twisted portions occurred alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the intermediate portion between S and Z was untwisted or sweet. It was in a twisted state (20T/M or less). The number of twists in the S or Z twisted yarn section is 300T/M on average in the S twisted yarn section and 200T/M on average in the Z twisted yarn section.
It contained twists equivalent to . Slubs were generated in the undrawn yarn part included in the twisted yarn part, and no slabs were generated in other parts. The average length of the slab was 10 mm, and the average apparent diameter ratio between the slab part and the non-slab part was 2.0.

When the obtained slub yarn was glued and woven, a fabric with distinctive soft drape properties was obtained, with appearance changes due to different twist directions of S and Z and different number of twists, in addition to the slub appearance. Ta.

Example 6 A polyester fiber yarn in which stretched parts and unstretched parts are randomly mixed, the length of the unstretched part of each filament is 80 mm or less, the average length of the unstretched part is 10 mm, and an arbitrary cross section 100 denier yarn with a ratio of 5 to 80% undrawn filaments and 5 to 50 undrawn yarn parts per 1 m36
Using a filament yarn, the yarn has a real twist T=
Z400T/M was added and continuous dry heat relaxation treatment was performed at a temperature of 170°C and a relaxation rate of +18%.

The apparent diameter ratio of the slab part and the non-slab part of the obtained yarn was about 2.5 times, and an average of 8 slabs were generated per 1 m of yarn length, and slabs with lengths of 5 mm to 50 mm were randomly generated. was.

When the slub yarn was woven and dyed and finished, a fabric with a soft texture and excellent drapability was obtained without any problems such as cut threads or movement of the slub during the process.

Example 7 The yarn used in Example 1 and a normal 50 denier 36 filament yarn that does not include unstretched parts were aligned, real twist S400T/M was added, and this was heated under dry heat at a temperature of 200°C. Relaxation heat treatment was performed at a relaxation rate of 16% and a treatment time of 0.4 seconds. The resulting yarn has an average density of 5 per meter.
slabs are generated, the apparent diameter ratio of the slab part and non-slab part is 1.5 times, and the length of the slab part is the average
It was 15mm.

Example 8 Thick-and-thin yarn 100 denier 24 of polyester fiber with unstretched portion concentrated in one location of yarn
Two filament yarns with an undrawn part length of 30 mm and an average of 10 undrawn parts per 1 m were pulled together, a real twist of 350 T/M was applied, and the treatment temperature was 220°C.
When dry heat treatment was performed at a relaxation rate of 15%, an average of 13 slabs were generated per 1 m of the resulting yarn.

Example 9 Two yarns used in Example 1 were aligned and twisted.
Add 300T/M, process temperature 220℃, relaxation rate
The resulting yarn, which was subjected to dry heat treatment at 25%, has a thick slab where the undrawn yarn portions of the two yarns overlap, and a slab where the undrawn yarn portion and the drawn yarn portion overlap. The diameter of the non-slab part was 4.5 times that of the thick slab part.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is an enlarged view of a portion of the slub yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 shows an example of a cross-sectional view of the slab portion of the slab yarn of the present invention, and FIG.
C shows an example of a cross-sectional view of a non-slab part of the slab yarn of the present invention. FIG. 4 is a partially enlarged view showing another example of the slub yarn of the present invention. FIG. 5 shows a filament yarn of the starting material for producing the slub yarn of the present invention. 1... Undrawn part, 2... Stretched part, 3... Undrawn yarn part, 4... Stretched yarn part.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Comprised of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn containing single filaments in which undrawn portions and stretched portions are mixed,
A yarn formed of a slab part having a twist of 70T/M or more, in which the unstretched part is concentrated in the center of the slab part, and the stretched part or the stretched part and the stretched filament form a floating yarn on the outer periphery. A slub yarn characterized by being intertwined with each other to form a slub portion. 2. The slab yarn according to claim 1, wherein the undrawn portion concentrated in the center of the slab portion is fused. 3. A method for producing a slub yarn, which comprises twisting a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn containing a single filament with a mixture of undrawn and stretched portions to 70 T/M or more, and then subjecting it to relaxation heat treatment. 4. A method for producing a slab yarn, which comprises false-twisting a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn containing a single filament with a mixture of unstretched parts and stretched parts under the following conditions, and then subjecting it to relaxation heat treatment. False twist number (T _A )≦0.7×(23000/√D+590) False twist temperature (T _B )≦150℃ However, D: Apparent denier of yarn