JPH0366410B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a partially crimped yarn that has a hemp-like feel as a fabric and has less occurrence of grains. Conventionally, a yarn is a false-twisted and crimped yarn made of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, which has a converging part due to residual actual twist in the false-twisting direction and a bulky part due to false-twisting and crimp in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. For example, the article is
53-23430, Japanese Patent Publication No. 53-15188, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 52-99315, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 63-98448, etc. have been proposed. The processed yarns proposed in these processes are subjected to untwisting action in the untwisting area because the twist generated in the false twisting area is firmly fixed in shape due to the fusion or adhesion of single filaments during the false twisting process. Even after the twisting process has been completed, some of the actual twist remains untwisted, resulting in a so-called untwisted part, and a part of the twisted part that has been crimped by the false twisting process and has a twist in the untwisting direction. The yarn has twisted bulky parts (hereinafter simply referred to as untwisted bulky parts) alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. In such a processed yarn, since the single filaments constituting the yarn are bonded together, the bending rigidity of the yarn is increased and the yarn has a hemp-like texture. However, on the other hand, if the untwisted parts are bonded, each single filament will have a structure with latent internal distortion in the twisted state, so if the untwisted parts are heated during dyeing and finishing of the fabric, they will adhere. Some of the single filaments in the untwisted part are peeled off, and the shape fixing effect due to adhesion of each single filament decreases, leaving only the shape fixing effect due to heating of the twist, which causes torque due to the false twisting process to occur. do. Therefore, when such a processed yarn is used, for example, as the warp or weft of a textile, the untwisted portion intersects with the warp and weft, or the overlapped portion adjacent to the warp or weft becomes a convex line after dyeing and finishing. It looks like something has grown out of it. This tendency becomes more pronounced as the difference in appearance between the converging part and the untwisted bulky part increases, and it correlates with the rate of change (X) in the yarn turning index, which will be described later, and the rate of change (X) is 120%. If it exceeds this, it can no longer be used as a smooth fabric. For conventional fused false twisted yarns, this rate of change (X) is 120%.
It was more than that. Therefore, in order to prevent the occurrence of the horn-like grains, attempts have been made to make untwisted yarns without gluing the single filaments constituting the yarns, as seen in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-225, for example. It is no longer possible to obtain a linen-like texture suitable for use in midsummer with a siali taste and a refreshing feeling. The present inventors, in view of the current state of the conventionally processed yarn mentioned above,
A part that is concentrated due to the adhesion between the single filaments that make up the yarn in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and residual twist in the false-twisting combustible direction, and an untwisted bulky part that has become bulky due to the false-twisting and crimping process. We conducted extensive research on the occurrence of horn-like grains and linen-like texture in yarns that alternate with It was found that the occurrence was largely due to the difference in torque between the yarn at room temperature and after it was treated with boiling water. The present invention has been made based on this knowledge, and provides a partially crimped yarn that has a hemp-like texture as a fabric and has less occurrence of grains. It is a partially crimped yarn obtained by false twisting an oriented multifilament undrawn yarn without stretching it to a draw ratio that exceeds the initial yield point of the yarn, and has a single filament in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. It has alternately a convergent part that is converged due to adhesion of the yarn and residual twist in the false twisting direction, and an untwisted bulky part that has become bulky due to false twisting and crimp, and has a twisting index of the yarn. This is a partially crimped yarn characterized by a rate of change (X) of 120% or less. However, x = B-A/A x 100% A; 2 mg/d at the midpoint C of a 60 cm long sample at room temperature.
The number of twists when the load is applied and the length is folded in two to make a length of 30cm, and the C end is set as the free end and the other end is the fixed end, and the C end is set as the free end and the other end is the fixed end, and the yarn is rotated freely by the turning force of the yarn. (T/M) B: The sample subjected to the measurement in A above was folded in two at the midpoint C, and without applying any load to the C end, the sample was placed in boiling water with this as the free end and the other end as the fixed end. The number of twists (T/M) when immersed in water for 10 seconds and then taken out and rotated freely under a suspended load of 2 mg/d in the same way as A above means. The present invention will be explained in more detail below. First, the processed yarn of the present invention is a partially crimped yarn obtained by false twisting a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, and includes adhesion of single filaments in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and residual twist in the false twisting direction. It alternately has a converging part that is converged by the crimping and an untwisted bulky part that has become bulky by false twisting and crimp. Adhesion here means that only the surface of the filament is thermally fused. That is, the textured yarn of the present invention, as shown in FIG. 1, is a partially crimped yarn formed by false twisting and having converging portions 1 and untwisted bulky portions 2 alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Therefore, when the processed yarn of the present invention is made into a fabric, clear appearance irregularities can be obtained on the surface of the fabric. Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 2, the bundled part 1 of the processed yarn of the present invention is bundled without showing a crimp form due to the adhesion of all or part of the single filaments and the residual twist in the direction of false twisting. Therefore, a linen-like texture can be obtained in a fabric using the processed yarn of the present invention.
On the other hand, in the untwisted bulky part 2, all of the single filaments constructed as shown in FIG. 3 are not bonded together.
Or, even if it is bonded, it is lighter than the converging portion, and its appearance clearly shows a crimped crimp form due to false twisting, and the fabric retains sufficient bulk. Next, it is necessary for the processed yarn of the present invention to have a rate of change (X) in the yarn swirl index of 120% or less. However, x = B - A / A × 100% Here, A is a load of 2 mg/d applied to the midpoint C of a 60 cm long sample at room temperature, and a 30 cm long sample is folded in two.
B is the number of twists (T/M) when the load is suspended and the C end is a free end and the other end is a fixed end and is freely rotated by the swirling force of the thread. While folding the sample used for measurement in two at midpoint C, place the sample in boiling water with this as the free end and the other end as the fixed end without applying any load to the C end.
After soaking for 10 seconds, take it out and add 2mg/
It is the number of twists (T/M) when the load of d is suspended and rotated freely. That is, the processed yarn of the present invention is a partially crimped yarn having alternating converging parts and untwisted bulky parts as described above, and has a swirling force. By setting the ratio to 120% or less, the untwisted portions that are bundled due to the adhesion of the single filaments that make up the yarn and the residual twist in the false twist firing direction are heated during dyeing and finishing processes, and the untwisted parts are separated between the single filaments. Even if some of the adhesion peels off, the resulting torque (hereinafter referred to as potential torque) is low.
The untwisted portions on the surface are heated during the dyeing and finishing process and protrude, creating grain-like grains and degrading the quality of the fabric, which can be greatly reduced. The rate of change (X) of this turning index is the rate of change (X)
We obtained this result for the first time by using different textured yarns and by changing the weaving conditions such as texture and thread density, and then applying scouring and dyeing to the fabrics and examining the relationship between the grains on the surface of the resulting fabrics. This is a numerical value, and the point that the change rate (X) of the yarn turning index is 120% or less is of critical significance in terms of preventing the formation of grains. When the rate of change (X) exceeds 120%, not only does the potential torque of the untwisted portion increase, but also the single filament constituting the yarn of the untwisted portion exhibits a crimp form due to false twisting. First, as the apparent stiffness increases, the untwisted portions protrude on the surface of the fabric, creating wrinkles, making it no longer usable as a smooth fabric. The reason why the rate of change in latent torque (X) is related to the above-mentioned horn-shaped grain, regardless of the actual talc at room temperature, is that the actual torque force at room temperature is due to the longitudinal direction of the yarn when forming the fabric. This is thought to be due to the fact that the potential torque developed by heating such as dyeing and finishing after fabric formation differs between the converging part and the untwisted bulky part. In order to obtain the above-mentioned processed yarn of the present invention, for example, the yarn is obtained by melt-spinning a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament yarn without drawing it, and whose twist shape is well fixed by heat at a temperature below its melting point. For example, a highly oriented undrawn polyester yarn spun at high speed is temporarily stretched at a temperature at which the single filaments constituting the yarn fuse together without stretching the yarn beyond the draw ratio corresponding to the initial yield point of the yarn. This is achieved by twisting. FIG. 4 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of the method for producing processed yarn of the present invention.
The yarn Y pulled out from the feed roller 12
The false-twisting spindle 1 is fed into the false-twisting zone and stretched between the feed roller 12 and the first delivery roller 15 at a stretching ratio that does not exceed the stretching ratio corresponding to the initial yield point, or in a relaxed state.
4, the fibers are twisted by the heater 13 and heat-set by the heater 13, and sent to the reheat treatment zone via the first delivery roller 15, and then reheated in the relaxed state by the reheat treatment heater 16, and the second delivery roller 1
7 and then rolled up into a package cage 18. The thermoplastic synthetic fibers in the present invention include synthetic fibers obtained from polyester, polyamide, etc., as well as synthetic fibers obtained from copolymers or blend polymers of these polymers. As described above, in the partially crimped yarn of the present invention, the bundled portion is bundled by all or part of the adhesion between the single filaments and the residual twist in the direction of false twisting. Because the fixation is sufficient, even after some of the form fixation of the twist due to adhesive is released, the form is sufficiently fixed, and moreover, it is a fused alternately twisted yarn that retains the metastable state of highly oriented undrawn yarn. Therefore, the fabric obtained from the processed yarn of the present invention has a hemp-like texture, and the rate of change in the swirl index of the yarn after boiling water treatment at room temperature is 120% or less.
Even if the adhesive between the single filaments is partially peeled off due to heating during the dyeing and finishing process, the resulting untwisted parts will protrude on the surface of the fabric, resulting in ridge-like grains. It is possible to greatly reduce the occurrence of blemishes and deterioration of the quality of the fabric. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example Highly oriented, low-crystalline polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn 350d/60f with a birefringence index (Δn) of 45×10 ^-3 obtained by high-speed spinning was subjected to LS-6 false twisting machine (manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) A partial crimping process of the present invention in which the yarn is false-twisted while applying shrinkage under the false-twisting conditions shown in Table 1 No. 1, and has converging parts and untwisted bulky parts alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. Got the thread. On the other hand, for comparison, polyethylene phthalate drawn yarn 300d/60f with a birefringence index (Δn) of 170×10 ^-3 obtained through a normal spinning-stretching process was prepared using the above-mentioned false twisting machine as shown in Table 1 No. 2. False-twisting was performed while applying shrinkage under the false-twisting conditions shown in Figure 2, to obtain a partially crimped yarn having converging portions and untwisted bulky portions alternately in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.

[Table] When the change rate (X) of the swirl index was determined for these partially crimped yarns, the yarns of the present invention had A=
67.2T/M, B = 90.3 (T/M), x = 34.4%, and the rate of change (x) in the swirl index is less than 120%, whereas the comparative processed yarn has A = 41.6T/M, B =
99.8T/M, x=139.9%, and the rate of change in turning index (x) exceeded 120%. Next, the processed yarn of the present invention was given a warp density of 48 yarns/waft density.
Plain weave fabrics were prepared with a warp density of 45 threads/inch, a comparative processed yarn with a warp density of 47 threads/inch, and a weft density of 44 threads/inch, respectively, and treated with a scouring agent for 30 minutes at boiling in a relaxed state. Both of the fabrics had a hemp-like texture with a silky and refreshing feel, but the fabrics obtained from the comparative processed yarn had a surface appearance where the bundled part (untwisted part) intersected with the warp, warp or warp. Even if it pops out on the surface of the fabric in adjacent parts in the weft direction and is subjected to tension dry heat treatment (170℃ x 0.5 seconds) in the warp direction only, weft direction only, 10% each, or warp and weft 5% each, in the subsequent process, Even after high-temperature dyeing (130°C x 60 minutes), the above-mentioned pop-out was not resolved. On the other hand, in the fabric obtained from the processed yarn of the present invention, the bundled part (untwisted part) does not protrude to the surface of the fabric after the relaxation treatment, and even after the subsequent processing steps such as tension dry heat treatment and high-temperature dyeing. The above-mentioned popping out was not substantially observed.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Fig. 1 is a schematic external view of the processed yarn of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the converging portion of the processed yarn of the present invention, Fig. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the untwisted bulky part of the processed yarn of the present invention, and Fig. 4 1 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of a method for manufacturing processed yarn of the present invention. DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1... Convergence part, 2... Untwisting bulky part, 11... Supply yarn spool, 12... Feed roller, 1
3... Heater, 14... False twisting spindle, 15
...First delivery roller, 16... Reheat treatment heater, 17... Second delivery roller, 18...
...package, Y...thread.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A portion of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber highly oriented multifilament undrawn yarn that is false twisted without being stretched beyond a stretching ratio corresponding to the initial yield point of the yarn, which is a curled yarn. In this way, a convergent part formed by adhesion of single filaments in the longitudinal direction of the yarn and residual twist in the false-twisting direction and an untwisted bulky part, which has become bulky due to false-twisting and crimping, are alternately formed. 1. A partially crimped yarn characterized in that the rate of change (X) in the rotation index of the yarn is 120% or less. However, X=B-A/A×100% A; 2 mg/d at the midpoint C of a 60 cm long sample at room temperature.
The number of twists when the load is applied and the length is folded in two to make a length of 30cm, and the C end is set as the free end and the other end is the fixed end, and the C end is set as the free end and the other end is the fixed end, and the yarn is rotated freely by the turning force of the yarn. (T/M) B: The sample subjected to the measurement in A above was folded in two at the midpoint C, and without applying any load to the C end, the sample was placed in boiling water with this as the free end and the other end as the fixed end. The number of twists (T/M) when immersed in water for 10 seconds, taken out, and allowed to freely rotate with a load of 2 mg/d suspended in the same way as in A above.