JPH0375523B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to novel humectant compositions that can be used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions. It is common practice in cosmetics to use humectants, ie hygroscopic substances capable of absorbing moisture from the surrounding air and retaining the moisture in the cosmetic composition without a tendency to dry it out. It is. Moreover, the hygroscopicity of humectant films constitutes an important factor that can favorably influence the suppleness and texture of the skin when applied to the skin. Among the many humectant substances most commonly used are sodium salts such as sodium lactate or sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, polyols such as glycerin, sorbitol and propylene glycol, and other substances such as urea. can. It has also been proposed to use mixtures of these humectant substances, although no particularly significant synergistic effects could be observed when using mixtures of these humectant substances. Among these mixtures, in particular British patent no.
No. 1471679 discloses that pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or one of its hygroscopic salts and carbon atoms of 2 to 5
Combinations of salts of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, particularly the sodium salts of glycolic or lactic acid, with polypeptide materials of modified collagen have been described. According to this British patent, a "modified collagen polypeptide substance" is a polypeptide having a quaternary amino group with a halogen ion and a terminal carboxyl group esterified with an amino alcohol having 3 to 12 carbon atoms. substances or polypeptide substances with terminal amino groups reacted with saturated or unsaturated fatty acids and with terminal carboxyl groups reacted with polyols, in each case the polypeptide substances are derived from collagen and di-
It is to be understood that it has an average molecular weight corresponding to a tri- or tetra-peptide. According to this British patent, the proportions of the various ingredients are:
The weight ratio can vary within a weight ratio of 0.75 to 1.25, 0.75 to 1.25 for salts of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and 3.75 to 6.25 for polypeptide derivatives of modified collagen. The present invention relates to a particular combination of humectant substances,
The present invention relates to a humectant composition capable of imparting excellent preservation to the composition and also imparting softening and suppleness to the skin. The present invention contains 3 to 8% by weight of sodium lactate, 12 to 24% by weight of glycerin, and 30 to 48% of urea in an aqueous solution.
% by weight and less than 0.5% by weight of natural collagen. Various tests have been carried out and it has been possible to show that only this combination of the above proportions can provide the desired properties. In particular, natural collagen has proven to be essential for the purpose of obtaining good wetting properties. The wetting agent composition of the present invention contains 4 to 7% by weight of sodium lactate, 15.5 to 21% by weight of glycerin, 33.5 to 39% by weight of urea and natural collagen in an aqueous solution.
More preferably, it contains 0.05 to 0.2% by weight. Natural collagen is understood to be collagen which exhibits the following properties: It consists of a triple coil containing three helical chains α, β and γ with molecular weights of 100,000, 200,000 and 300,000, respectively. The α-linkage consists of two subunits α ₁ and α ₂ each having a molecular weight of 100,000, and both subunits differ slightly depending on the properties of the amino acids that constitute them. The β chain is composed of a subunit β ₁₁ consisting of two subunits α ₁ and a subunit β ₁₂ consisting of a subunit α ₁ and a subunit α ₂ . Subunits β ₁₁ and β ₁₂ each have a molecular weight of 200,000. On the other hand, at the end of each coil, depending on the type of collagen extraction, a linear polypeptide chain, so-called telopeptide, about 50 Å in length is present or absent. The collagen used in the humectant composition according to the invention may or may not have telopeptides. This natural collagen is the modified collagen polypeptide material used in British Patent No. 1471679. According to the present invention, the natural collagen is natural collagen cold extracted from the skin of young animals, especially young calves. They are completely different. Therefore, this natural collagen has a structure that has not been modified or denatured due to the specific conditions of its extraction. The humectant compositions of the present invention can generally be used in any composition requiring the presence of a humectant, whether to improve the shelf life of the composition or to improve the appearance or appearance of the skin. Among the compositions in which the humectant composition of the present invention can be used, particularly lotions, facial care creams, body emulsions, make-up remover emulsions or creams, sunscreen emulsions or creams, foundations, coloring creams, anti-wrinkle creams. or eye contour creams, but are not limited thereto. Generally, the wetting agent compositions of the present invention are used in proportions of 5 to 60% by weight to obtain good results. Similarly, the humectant compositions of the invention can be used in the same proportions in pharmaceutical compositions, especially dermatological compositions. Examples of wetting agent compositions of the present invention are shown below in Example A.
~Example D and examples 1 to 8 of cosmetic compositions or pharmaceutical compositions containing these. Furthermore, the wetting effect of the wetting composition of the present invention is also shown in the test examples. Example A Sodium lactate (60% aqueous solution) 9g Glycerin 18.5g Urea 36g Collagen (0.3% aqueous solution) 36.5g Example B Sodium lactate (60% aqueous solution) 10g Glycerin 17g Urea 35g Collagen (0.3% aqueous solution) 38g Example C Lactic acid Sodium (60% aqueous solution) 8g Glycerin 20g Urea 39g Collagen (0.3% aqueous solution) 33g Example D Sodium lactate (60% aqueous solution) 8g Glycerin 16g Urea 36g Collagen (0.3% aqueous solution) 40g Example 1 The following ingredients were prepared according to the present invention. A facial cream in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is prepared by mixing: Lanolinic acid 13.5g Arginine 1.5g Hydrogenated lanolin 15.0g Paraffin oil 35.0g Humectant composition of Example A 22g Preservative 0.15g Perfume 0.10g Water Required amount for 100 g total Example 2 A facial cream in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: Commercially available from Dynamit Nobel under the name "MIGLYOL812" Triglycerides of saturated fatty acids
4.0 g Cetyl alcohol 0.5 g Decyl oleate 5.0 g Vaseline oil 13.0 g Polyglycol ether of cetyl alcohol oxyethylated with 10 moles of ethylene oxide 4.0 g Polyethylene powder 4.0 g Wetting agent composition of Example A 27.5 g Water and preservatives Required amount Example 3 According to the present invention, the following ingredients are mixed to prepare a makeup remover emulsion: Paraffin oil 10.0 g Stearyl ether polyoxyethylated with 10 moles of ethylene oxide 2.0 g Polyoxyethylene with 10 moles of ethylene oxide Ethylated cetyl ether 2.0g Glyceryl monostearate 4.0g Cetyl alcohol 1.0g Stearyl alcohol 1.0g 1-2, commercially available under the name MiranolC2M
"Cocoyl" i.e. 1-(sodium carboxymethyl)-2-[2-(sodium carboxymethoxy)
[Ethyl]imidazolinium hydroxide 2.0g Hydroxy-propyl methylcellulose 0.3g Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.2g Kaolinite clay 5.0g Wetting agent composition of Example B 17g Fragrance 0.05g Water Required amount to make the total amount to 100g Example 4 A body emulsion is prepared by mixing the following ingredients: Isopropyl palmitate 5.0 g Paraffin oil 10.0 g From American Cholesterol Products.
A mixture of lanolin compounds with alcohol and sterols, marketed under the name Amerchol L101
0.3g Stearic acid 1.4g Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate
2.0g Cetyl alcohol 0.2g Triethanolamine 0.75g Hydroxymethyl cellulose 0.5g Propylene glycol 2.0g Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.35g Wetting agent composition of Example B 35g Fragrance 0.1g Water Required amount to make the total 100g Example 5 A tanning cream is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: Magnesium lanophosphate 2.85 g Lanolin alcohol 6.65 g Isopropyl palmitate 22.20 g Paraffin oil 26.00 g Ozokerite 2.00 g Wetting agent composition of Example D 22 g From the company Givaudan Sun filter commercially available under the name Parsol Ultra 5.00 g Water and preservative Required amount for a total of 100 g Example 6 A water-in-oil suntan cream is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: Self Emulsifying glycerol monostearate
5.00 g Isopropyl myristate 16.00 g Perhydrosqualene 10.00 g Methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.3 g Hydroxymethyl cellulose 0.5 g 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate 5.0 g Humectant composition of Example C 26 g Fragrance 0.1 g Water Requirements for 100 g Example 7 A pigmented foundation in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: Isopropyl lanophosphate 4.0 g Stearic acid 2.6 g Self-emulsifying glycerol stearate 5.0 g Paraffin oil 10.0g Petrolatum 10.0g Triethanolamine 1.2g Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.1g Bentonite 2.5g Wetting agent composition of Example A 16g Red iron oxide 0.7g Yellow iron oxide 0.9g Titanium oxide 2.0g Fragrance 0.1g Water and preservatives Requirements for a total of 100 g Example 8 An eye contour cream in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion is prepared according to the invention by mixing the following ingredients: Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate
3.0g from American Cholesterol Products
A mixture of lanolin and sterols sold under the name Amerchol L101 3.0g Perhydrosqualene 10.0g Isopropyl palmitate 1.0g Cetyl alcohol 2.0g Soybean lecithin 0.5g Hydroxymethylcellulose 0.5g Placenta extract 2.0g Amino-serum serique) extract 1.0g Humectant composition of Example B 28g Fragrance 0.5g Water and preservative Required amount test example using a total of 100g A cream was prepared using the humectant composition of the present invention, and its moisturizing effect was evaluated. It was measured by the method shown below. For comparison, a cream containing sodium lactate and urea as active ingredients, which are components of the humectant composition of the present invention, a cream containing collagen as an active ingredient, and a cream containing urea as an active ingredient were similarly prepared. were prepared and their wetting effect was determined by a similar method. 1. Preparation of creams Four types of creams, namely creams A, P, Q and R, were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 below. Cream A contains 27.5 g of the humectant composition of Example A of the present invention as an active ingredient. Creams P, Q and R are creams for comparative testing. Cream P is formulated with sodium lactate and urea, which are components of the humectant composition of the present invention, as active ingredients, and Cream Q is formulated only with collagen, which is a component of the humectant composition of the present invention, as an active ingredient. Cream R
These are formulations containing only urea, which is a component of the wetting agent composition of the present invention, as an active ingredient, and the amounts of their active ingredients are as shown in Table 1 below.

【table】

[Table] 2 Wetting effect test as described in J.Inv.Demr. 75 , 500-507 (1980)
The skin epidermis was measured at a frequency of 3.5 MHz using SKICON 200 [trade name of an in-vivo epidermal stratum corneum hydration state measuring device manufactured by IBS Inc. (Hamamatsu City)] as a measuring device according to the method of Hachiro Tagami et al. The moist state of the stratum corneum on the skin surface was measured by measuring the electrical resistance of the stratum corneum. The test was conducted as follows. Each test cream was applied to two areas on the inner surface of the forearms of 16 women as test areas. In addition, a part to which no cream was applied was provided as a control area.
The wet state of the test area and control area before application of the cream was measured using the above device, and this measured value was defined as T ₀ .
In addition, the moist state of the test plot 30 minutes after applying the cream and the moist state of the control plot 30 minutes later were measured in the same manner, and this measured value was defined as T ₃₀ . The average values of T ₀ and T ₃₀ obtained as well as the various parameters and wetting effect values (E) determined therefrom are shown in Table 2 below.

[Table] The significant difference in the table is the significant difference in the measured value difference (T ₃₀ - _{T 0} ) evaluated using Keul's significance test method, where NS represents no significant difference and S represents a significant difference. Represents existence. D in the table is the difference between the measured value difference (T ₃₀ - T ₀ ) of each test cream (X) in the test area and the difference (T ₃₀ - T ₀ ) in the measured value of the control area (U). represent. That is, D=[T(X) ₃₀ −T(X) ₀ ]−[T(U) ₃₀ −T
(U)
₀ ] [wherein, X=A, P, Q and R, and T(U)
₃₀ −T(U) ₀ =3.2]. Further, E in the table represents the effectiveness of each test cream, that is, the moisturizing effect compared to untreated skin without cream application. Wetting effect E was calculated according to the following formula. E=T(X) ₃₀ -T(X) ₀ /T(X) ₀ -T(U) ₃₀ -T(U) ₀ /T(U) _0In the above formula, T(U) ₃₀ -T(U ) ₀ /T(U) ₀ = 3.2/13.8 The results obtained show that the wetting agent composition of the present invention is superior to the wetting agent composition using collagen alone, urea alone, or a mixture of sodium lactate and urea as active ingredients. It shows that it has a remarkable moisturizing effect compared to the above.
That is, the wetting agent composition of the present invention has a wetting effect of 139
%, which is much better than the total value of the moisturizing effect shown by each of the wetting agent compositions containing the individual components of the wetting agent composition of the present invention as active ingredients, and the wetting agent composition of the present invention has an excellent Has a synergistic effect.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. In an aqueous solution, 3 to 8% sodium lactate and 12 to 24% glycerin, based on the total weight of the wetting agent composition.
%, 30 to 42% urea and less than 0.5% natural collagen. 2 4 to 7% by weight of sodium lactate in aqueous solution,
A composition according to claim 1, comprising 15.5-21% by weight of glycerin, 33.5-39% by weight of urea and 0.05-0.2% by weight of natural collagen.