JPH04357995A - Improved method and device for attaching elastic material to cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To provide an apparatus for applying elastic material to a portion of garment material. CONSTITUTION: The apparatus consisting of a sewing station 51 and a metering device 62 feeds a strip of elastic material 32 to lie on or under the garment material to enable the elastic material to be progressively secured by the station 51 in face to face contact to the marginal portion of the garment material until a required length of elastic material is secured to the garment material. A cutting device 70 cuts the elastic material from its supply body to form a prescribed length. A tension holder 80 holds the unsecured portion of the cut prescribed length under tension while the securing operation is executed.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

0001

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method and apparatus for attaching elastic materials to clothing.

0002

[Prior Art and Problems Therewith] In the production of underwear, such as boxer shorts, a known method for attaching an elastic body is to weave elastic yarn into a flat or open clothing material to give it elasticity. First, attach the band. This band is attached under tension, and the fabric to which it is attached is wrinkled when no tension is applied, allowing the band to stretch when worn with underwear. There is. Next, the opposing side edges are also sewn together using an overlock sewing machine to finish the garment into a cylindrical shape. A problem with this manufacturing method is that the seamed edges that connect the highly elastic bands extend and protrude laterally with respect to the band. Such a condition is unsightly and uncomfortable for the user.

Another known method for attaching elastic material is to first form a continuous loop of clothing material and then attach the loop of elastic material to the top of the looped material to form a waistband. forming and then finishing the garment. The elastic material is made by cutting a long piece of elastic material, sewing the ends of the cut elastic material together to form a loop, and then sewing this looped elastic material onto the looped clothing fabric. . The disadvantages associated with this known method are that three steps are required;
That is, it is necessary to cut the elastic material, form it into a loop, and attach the loop of elastic material to the garment, increasing the manufacturing cost of the garment.

0004

[Means for Solving the Problems] According to the present invention, one end of a long elastic material is pressed and fixed against the edge of the clothing fabric, and tension is applied along the edge of the clothing fabric. Fix this part continuously, cut a certain length of elastic material from the long elastic material, attach the certain length of elastic material to the clothing fabric, and while fixing this to the clothing fabric, cut a certain length of elastic material. A method is provided for forming a stretchable portion in a garment that maintains a fixed portion under tension.

[0005] Preferably, this method includes the steps of supplying the elongated elastic material so that it lies above or below the garment, and holding the cut end of the supply of elastic material to be used for the next garment. and has.

[0006] The method may also include the step of metering the length of elastic material from below the fixed portion.

Preferably, the method further includes the steps of forming an opening in the substantially completed garment, and fixing one end of the elongated elastic material facing each other to the end of the garment surrounding the opening. A process of cutting a long elastic material to form a certain length of elastic material, and a process of cutting a long elastic material to form a certain length of elastic material, and a part of the certain length of elastic material including the other end overlaps with this one end to form a highly elastic part, a rubber thread. It may also include the step of fixing a length of elastic material under tension to the garment until it is woven into a stretchable band.

The present invention also provides a securing mechanism and a strip of elastic material that is applied over or below the garment to secure the elastic material to the edge of the garment until the desired length of elastic material is secured to the garment. a cutting device that cuts the elastic material from the long supply body to form a fixed length of the elastic material; An apparatus for attaching elastic material to a portion of a garment is provided, comprising a tension holder that holds the unsecured portion of the material under tension.

Preferably, the apparatus includes a programmable electronic metering mechanism for metering the elastic material from below the fixing mechanism and retaining the cut end of the supply of elastic material for use in the next garment.

Preferably, the device according to the invention also comprises:
A feeding mechanism that simultaneously supplies a long elastic material and an end of the clothing material that has passed through a fixing mechanism, and is configured to pull the elastic material that has passed through a tension retainer provided immediately upstream of the fixing mechanism. the tension retainer contacts the length of elastic material and prevents longitudinal movement thereof, thereby applying tension to the portion of the elastic material between the supply mechanism and the tension retainer; The section of elastic material may be secured under tension to the edge of the garment by creating a .

Preferably, the length of elastic material is fed to the fixing mechanism from a continuous length wound, for example on a reel, and the metering mechanism is provided upstream of the tension retainer and is slower than the feeding mechanism. By being designed to reliably feed a continuous length of elastic material to the fixing mechanism at a high speed, tension is applied to the portion of the elastic material located between the metering mechanism and the feeding mechanism, and the tension retainer is , selectively gripping and releasing the elastic material may allow the metering mechanism to be moved away from the supply mechanism and allow the metering mechanism to tension the portion of the elastic material.

Preferably, the tension retainer comprises a movable clamp head and a base, the clamp head being movable toward and away from the base between an elastic material gripping position and an elastic material release position.

Preferably, the clamp head is in the form of a concave plate with a gripping end in contact with the resilient material at one end, the concave plate being fixedly attached to a rotating shaft, the rotating shaft being fixedly attached to the concave plate. It is preferable to include a biasing mechanism that attempts to move the concave plate to the release position and a piston mechanism that acts on a lever coupled to the rotating shaft to move the concave plate to the gripping position.

Preferably, a stationary guide plate is provided with passages formed therein for guiding the length of elastic material on both sides towards the gripping end until the guide plate is in the recess of the clamp head and close to the gripping end. It's good if it's stretched out.

[0015] The present invention also provides an elastic opening which is secured by facing and contacting the end of the clothing surrounding the opening by stitching in one or more rows extending in the length direction. having an opening with a band of material;
The band has a first end that is fixed in contact with an end of the clothing facing each other, and a second end that overlaps the first end and the clothing and is fixed in close proximity to the band oppositely. The present invention provides a garment having a joint having at least two overlapping rows of stitches secured to the garment fabric at the joint.

[0016] Preferably, the garment is folded at the seam over the elastic band to form a cylindrical waistband.

Preferably, the garment is provided with an inner lining having a band of elastic material attached thereto.

[0018] The present invention also provides a highly elastic material formed by attaching a certain length of elastic material to the end of the clothing material, facing each other and fixing the material by one or more rows of seams extending in the length direction. The present invention provides a garment in which a length of elastic material is secured to a garment fabric under tension between a first end and a second remote end.

[0019]

[Example] Hereinafter, an embodiment of a garment having a highly elastic portion according to the present invention and an embodiment of a device according to the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are shown by way of example only. do.

[0020]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Figures 1 to 4 show a garment fabric 20 for making pants such as boxer shorts. Clothing fabric 20
is cut from a desired clothing material, preferably a woven material, and includes leg forming portions 21 and torso opening forming portions 22.

To make this garment, the garment fabric 20 is folded, the edges 26 are pressed together, and the edges 26 are usually sewn together using an overlock sewing machine.
ine) to create a seam 30. In this way, a torso opening 31 is formed in the underwear. According to the present invention, a band 32 woven with rubber thread to have elasticity is pressed against and joined to the end portion 33 of the underwear surrounding the torso opening 31. The band 32 is attached to the underwear under tension (i.e., stretched) so that if no force is applied, the weave at the end 33 will wrinkle and the band will stretch when the underwear is put on. .

As shown in detail in FIG. 4, the band 32 is secured to the clothing material such that one end 35 rests on and is pressed against the other end 36. Preferably, the band 32 is secured to the fabric with a pair of rows of seams 37, 38, as shown in FIG. These seams extend along the length of the band and also secure each end 35, 36 together. Therefore, no seam is formed in the direction transverse to each end 35, 36, and therefore the joint 40 between the ends of the band
is relatively flat. In attaching the band to the underwear, the number of rows of seams extending in the length direction may be selected as desired.

Band 3 woven with rubber thread to give it elasticity
2 has elasticity over the entire circumference of the trunk opening 31,
It is preferable that one end portion 35 of the band is pressed and fixed under tension.

[0024] A device for attaching a band 32 woven with rubber thread to give elasticity to the end 33 surrounding the trunk opening 31 is provided.
It is illustrated in FIGS. 5 and 6.

The attachment device 50 includes a sewing station 51 for fixing the band 32 to the end 33. In the illustrated embodiment, the stitching station 51 includes:
The sewing machine is comprised of a pair of needles 53, a stand 55, and a presser foot 56. A feed dog (not shown) is provided below the presser foot 56 to feed the end and band past the needle 53.

[0026] Downstream of the stitching station 51,
A tension roller 59 is provided which is driven by the sewing machine in synchronization with the feed dog. The role of the tension roller 59 is to maintain the band located between the roller and the sewing needle 53 in a stretched state so that stitching can be performed successfully. Therefore, it is preferable that the feed speeds of the roller 59 and the feed dog be the same. Roller 59 to stand 55
A nip portion 60 is provided on the band and contacts the end portion and the band.
is formed between the two. The periphery of roller 59 is preferably in frictional contact with the fabric passing through the nip. For this reason, it is preferable to provide a plurality of ribs around the roller, or to form the surrounding area from a material with a large coefficient of friction.

On the upstream side of the sewing machine, a metering device 62 equipped with a pair of nip rollers 63 ensures that the band 32 is fed in a continuous length from the feeding section.

The nip roller 63 is preferably driven by a stepping motor (not shown) which can be controlled to select a desired tension. This motor is provided so that the rotation of the nip roller can be selected between clockwise and counterclockwise directions to increase or decrease the tension of the band supplied to the sewing machine. During sewing, the motor controls the knitting roller to rotate in synchronization with the feed of the sewing machine to maintain the desired tension.

To form the joint 40, it is necessary to cut the band 32 from a long band supply while maintaining the tension on the band as the band 32 passes through the sewing station 51.

This cutting is performed at the sewing station 51.
This is achieved by providing a cutting mechanism 70 provided between the cutting mechanism 70 and the metering device 62, and a tension holder 80 provided between the cutting mechanism 70 and the stitching station 51.

Tension retainer 80 is preferably attached to a movable clamp head mounted on platform 55.
head) into the shape of 82. This clamp head 82 is constructed by combining the clamp head 82 with the base 55 and the band 3.
The clamp head 82 is movable between a band holding position where the clamp head 82 is gripped and a band releasing position where the clamp head 82 is separated from the stand and no longer grips the band. Preferably, the clamp head 82 is in the form of a concave plate 84 with a gripping end 85 at one end for holding the band 32. In this way, the gripping end 85 can be provided at a position close to the presser 56 in the sewing station 51.

The concave plate 84 is fixedly attached to a rotating shaft 88 which can be loaded in one direction, for example by a spring 83, so as to bias the concave plate to the released position. Fixed lever 90
It is adapted to be moved in the opposite direction by a pneumatic piston 89 acting on By appropriately adjusting the fluid pressure supplied to the pneumatic piston 89, the pressure applied to the band by the gripping end 85 can be varied to adjust the tension applied to the band. This tension is selected to be the same as the tension applied by metering device 62.

The cutting mechanism 70 is preferably in the form of a movable blade 71 rotatably mounted at one end and cooperating with a fixed blade 72 for cutting the band 32. The fixed blade 72 is provided with a slit 73 for guiding the band, and the movable blade 71 is preferably moved by a pneumatic piston 75 like scissors across the fixed blade 72 to co-operate with the opposite end of the slit to guide the band. disconnect.

In order to cut the band 32 cleanly so that the ends are properly squared, it is necessary to cut the band without tension.

Therefore, when cutting the band 32, the feeding of the band 32 and the end portion 33 of the garment is stopped at the same time by stopping the sewing machine. At this time, band 3
3 is stopped, but is maintained under tension between the sewing station and the metering device 62.

Next, the clamp head 82 is operated to move to the band holding position, and the measuring device 62 is operated to feed the band 32. In this way, the band 32 between the clamp head 82 and the metering device 62 is fully tensioned, while the band 32 between the clamp head 82 and the feed roller 59 is still under tension. It is in a dilapidated state. In this way, the cutting mechanism 7
0 to cut the band 32. After cutting, the sewing machine is activated to pull the band 32 through the clamp head 82, and the tension exerted on the band 32 by the clamp head 82 causes the band to maintain the desired tension.

[0037] Thus, when the end of the band 32 exits the clamp head 82, the length of the band between the presser foot 56 and the clamp head contacts prior to sewing. The location where this occurs is chosen such that the joint 40 is formed without affecting the elasticity around the torso opening. The length of the band released from the clamp head 82 is
5 is located close to the presser foot, it is very short and therefore does not pose problems regarding accurate feeding to the sewing machine.

A fixed guide plate 95 is provided to reliably guide the band upstream of the gripping end 85 after cutting. This guide plate 95 is connected to the recess 8 of the clamp plate 84.
It extends inside 4a to a location close to the gripping end 85. The guide plate 95 is provided with a passage 96, the width of which is preferably the same as the width of the band when no tension is applied. In this way, the band is reliably guided along both sides. Guide plates 95 with different channel widths may be provided to accommodate bands of different widths.

Clamp plate 84 and guide plate 9
5 also serves as a support surface for the ends of the garment, keeping them out of contact with the band until reaching the sewing station.

The order of operation is as follows.

The cycle begins when the craftsman holds the sewing machine on the back-treadle and raises the tension roller 59 and 56. The craftsman places the garment on the band, lowers the presser foot 56, and sews the preset seams, usually two or three. Thereafter, the tension roller 59 automatically descends and the metering device 62 automatically reverses to apply a predetermined tension to the band.
Make it wrinkled. If desired, a non-rugged or flat portion may be incorporated into the band. This is possible because the metering device 62 supplies more elastic material than necessary. To restore the wrinkled state,
Thereafter, the metering device 62 is reversed again until a predetermined tension is applied.

The craftsman then sews up to the cut, stopping at the point where the clamp head 82 automatically descends onto the band;
The controller is then operated to cause the metering device 62 to release the tension while simultaneously holding the clamp head 82 in a depressed position and activating the cutting mechanism. The operating sequence is then completed by the craftsman sewing to the cut end of the band, back-treadling to remove the garment, and restarting the operating sequence by automatically feeding the band (elastic material) into the presser foot. Sequence control of clamp head 82, metering device 62, and cutting mechanism 70 is accomplished by a programmable electronic control mechanism (not shown) that detects the sewing machine motor position with an encoder.

[0043] By applying new innovations based on the present invention, it is possible to produce leisure wear or other clothing that can be used as everyday wear.

[0044] Garments fitted with elastic bands woven from rubber thread are folded at the lower ends of the elastic bands, which are preferably sewn on a seam covering machine.
ne) may be pressed and secured oppositely to the other end of the garment to form a cylindrical waistband. seam covering
ering is used in the clothing industry in which two closed rows of seams are continuously looped by another covering thread, with numerous lengths of short thread extending between two parallel rows of seams. This is the type of stitching used. The multiple rows of seams installed during the stretching process prevent the elastic material from twisting within the tubular waistband.

[0045] The lining material is subjected to an elastic process.
tion process). The lining can be attached by one or more rows of seams and, if necessary, secured to the garment and the overlying seams.

The device according to the invention may also be used to attach discrete lengths of elastic material to portions of clothing instead of using the elastic material all the way around or along the entire length. The individual lengths can be adjusted by the tension applied by the tension retainer 80. In this way, the garment can be made stretchy only in the areas where it is needed, saving on elastic material.

It is understood that the present invention is not limited to the specific examples given here merely as illustrations, and that various modifications and changes can be made within the scope of the gist of the invention as described in the claims. I want to be

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

1 is a schematic illustration of a flat garment fabric forming a garment with a torso opening; FIG.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the garment fabric shown in FIG. 1 being folded to form a garment.

FIG. 3 is a view similar to FIG. 2 showing a highly elastic band attached to the trunk opening;

4 is a partial schematic view of the garment shown in FIG. 3 showing the joining of the waistband; FIG.

FIG. 5 is a perspective view of the device according to the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the apparatus shown in FIG. 5;

Claims (15)

[Claims] Claim 1: One end of a predetermined length of elastic material is pressed and fixed to the edge of the clothing fabric, and the elastic material is continuously applied while tension is applied along the edge of the clothing fabric. Cut a predetermined length of elastic material from the elastic material supply body so that the elastic material of a predetermined length is attached to the clothing fabric, and while it is fixed to the clothing fabric, the unfixed part of this fixed length of elastic material is cut. A method of forming an elastic part in clothing that holds it under tension. 2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the predetermined length of elastic material is supplied and placed on or under a garment, and the cut end of the supply of elastic material to be used for the next garment is held. . 3. A method according to claim 1, wherein the predetermined length of elastic material is measured from below the fixed part. 4. According to any one of claims 1 to 3, an opening is formed in the substantially completed garment, and one end of the predetermined length of elastic material is joined facing to an end of the garment surrounding the opening. The elastic material is cut to a certain length, and a part of the elastic material of a certain length, including the other end, overlaps the other end to create an elastic part in the form of a highly elastic band. A method of fixing a certain length of elastic material to clothing while applying tension to a certain length. 5. A fixing mechanism and a piece of elastic material being provided and placed on or under the garment, and being secured to the garment by the fixing mechanism until the elastic material is secured to the garment for its required length. a cutting device for cutting the elastic material from the elastic material supply to form a length of elastic material; and a cutting device for cutting the elastic material from the elastic material supply to form a length of elastic material, and and a tension retainer that holds an unfixed portion of elastic material of a certain length under tension.
A device that attaches elastic material to a part of a garment. 6. The apparatus of claim 5, further comprising a programmable electronic metering mechanism for metering the elastic material from below the fixing mechanism and gripping the cut end of the elastic material supply for use on the next garment. 7. The supply mechanism according to claim 5 or 6, which simultaneously supplies the predetermined length of the elastic material and the end of the clothing that has passed through the fixing mechanism, the supply mechanism including a supply mechanism immediately upstream of the fixing mechanism. a feeding mechanism arranged to pull the elastic material past the provided tension retainer, the tension retainer contacting and impeding longitudinal movement of the length of the elastic material, thereby A predetermined length of elastic material is created by creating tension in the predetermined length of elastic material between a supply mechanism and a tension retainer.
A device that attaches to the edge of a garment with tension applied. 8. According to any one of claims 5 to 7, a predetermined length of elastic material is supplied to the fixing mechanism from, for example, a continuous length of elastic material wound on a reel, and the metering mechanism upstream of the container and arranged to ensure feeding of a continuous length of elastic material towards the fixing mechanism at a slower rate than the feeding mechanism;
Tension is applied to a predetermined length of elastic material located between the metering mechanism and the supply mechanism, and the tension holder is configured to selectively grip and release the predetermined length of elastic material, thereby allowing the metering to be performed. Apparatus in which the mechanism can be separated from the supply mechanism and the metering mechanism can also apply tension to a length of elastic material. 9. The tension retainer according to claim 8, wherein the tension retainer comprises a movable clamp head and a base, and the movable clamp head is spaced apart from the base between an elastic material gripping position and an elastic material release position. A device that can be moved directly. 10. The clamp head according to claim 9, wherein the clamp head is in the form of a concave plate having a gripping end at one end in contact with the elastic material, the concave plate being fixedly attached to the rotating shaft. and a biasing mechanism that attempts to move the plate to the release position, and a piston mechanism that acts on a lever connected to the rotating shaft to move the plate to the gripping position. 11. The invention of claim 10, further comprising a fixed guide plate having a passageway formed therein for guiding both sides of the length of elastic material towards the gripping end, the guide plate comprising:
A device extending within the recess of the clamp plate to a point adjacent to the gripping end. 12. A stretchable aperture made of an elastic material which is secured against opposite ends of the garment surrounding the aperture by one or more longitudinal rows of seams. The band includes a first end that is pressed against and fixed to the end of the clothing, and a second end that overlaps the first end and faces the band in proximity to the clothing material. and a second end that is pressed against and fixed to,
A garment in which at least two overlapping rows of seams are fixed to the garment fabric at this joint. 13. The clothing according to claim 12, wherein the clothing is folded at the lower end of the elastic band and is fixed by being pressed against the other end of the elastic band clothing fabric. Clothing with a cylindrical waistband. 14. Garment according to claim 12, comprising an inner lining fitted with an elastic band. 15. A stretchable part made of an elastic material having a predetermined length, which is pressed and fixed to the end of the clothing fabric facing each other by one or more rows of seams extending in the length direction, A garment in which the elastic material is fixed to a garment fabric under tension between a first end and a second end remote therefrom.