JPH0441754A - Production of stretchable knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the title knitted fabric excellent in color fastness and mechanical properties, suitable for swimming wear, tights etc., by putting polyurethane elastic filament yarns and specific polyester filament yarns to cross- knitting, followed by dyeing or printing with a disperse dye and then making a reductive washing. CONSTITUTION:(A) Polyester filament yarns (pref. 0.5-3.0 denier in single fiber fineness and 30-180 denier in the entire fineness), having a single melting point peak, <=0.05g/d in the standard deviation for its thermal stress value at 130 deg.C, produced by melt spinning of a blend of 95-55wt.% of polyethylene terephthalate and 5-45wt.% of polybutylene terephthalate and (B) polyurethane elastic filament yarns (pref. polyester-based urethane yarns ca.40 denier in fineness) are put to cross-knitting, and the resultant knitted fabric is dyed or printed with a disperse dye and then put to reductive washing, thus obtaining the objective stretchable knitted fabric with favorable dyeability.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] [Industrial application field]

The present invention relates to a method for producing stretch knitted fabrics suitable for use as fabrics for sports clothing such as swimsuits and tights.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, the following stretchable knitted fabrics have been used or proposed as fabrics for sports clothing. That is,
■Knitted fabrics obtained by inter-knitting polyurethane elastic yarns and polyamide yarns, such as 2-uni-F tricot knitted fabrics, double knitted fabrics, and single knitted fabrics, were dyed using acid dyes. Stretch knitted fabric, ■Stretch knitted fabric made by inter-knitting polyurethane elastic yarn and cationic dyeable polyester yarn, dyed with cationic dye, ■Polyurethane elastic yarn and Stretch knitted fabric obtained by inter-knitting a knitted fabric with polybutylene terephthalate yarn and dyeing it with a disperse dye; ■A stretchable knitted fabric obtained by inter-knitting a polyurethane elastic yarn with a polyethylene terephthalate yarn. This is a stretch knitted fabric that is dyed using a disperse dye. However, since the stretchable knitted fabric (3) is dyed with an acid dye, it has poor dye fastness when wet and has the disadvantage that the dye transfers to other clothing when washed. Furthermore, the color fastness to chlorine is low, and the color fades due to the sterilizing chlorine present in pool water and tap water. Furthermore, the color fastness to sunlight was also low, and there was also a drawback of lacking light fastness. The stretchable knitted fabric (2) is superior to the stretchable knitted fabric (2) in terms of dye fastness in wet conditions and color fastness to chlorine. However, in terms of color fastness to sunlight, it is not as satisfactory as the stretch knitted fabric (2). Furthermore, since the stretchable knitted fabric (■) uses cationically dyeable polyester yarn, it has drawbacks such as low tensile strength and easy tearing, and is inferior in terms of durability. Ta. In addition, since the strength is low, there is a drawback that deterioration of the knitted fabric is observed even during the dyeing process. Since the stretchable knitted fabric (2) uses polybutylene terephthalate yarn, it has the disadvantage that a large amount of dye is discharged during reduction washing after dyeing, which reduces the dye density. In other words, polybutylene terephthalate yarn has a low secondary transition point of 40°C, so the crystalline parts move easily at a relatively low temperature.
The dye easily comes off. In order to avoid this drawback, reduction washing may be carried out at a low temperature, but reduction washing at a low temperature leads to another drawback in that the color fastness when wet is reduced. Furthermore, polybutylene terephthalate yarns also had the disadvantage of being expensive. Since the stretchable knitted fabric (2) uses polyethylene terephthalate yarn with poor dyeability, it was difficult to dye the polyurethane elastic yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate yarn to the same degree. That is, when polyethylene terephthalate yarn is dyed in a dark color, the polyurethane elastic yarn is severely contaminated and various color fastnesses are deteriorated. Further, if an attempt is made to avoid this drawback, it becomes difficult to dye the polyethylene terephthalate yarn in a deep color, resulting in the drawback that dyeing spots occur.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

Therefore, the present invention aims to create a stretchable knitted fabric that has good color fastness and satisfies mechanical properties by dyeing polyester fibers using a conventional method by using a special polyester yarn. It is an attempt to provide land.

[Means to solve the problem]

That is, the present invention is composed of a polyurethane elastic yarn, 95 to 55% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate, and 5 to 45% by weight of polybutylene terephthalate, has a unique melting point peak, and has a standard thermal stress value at 130°C. Stretch knitting characterized in that a knitted fabric obtained by inter-knitting polyester yarns with a deviation of 0.05 g/d or less is dyed or printed using a disperse dye, and then subjected to reduction washing. It concerns the method of manufacturing clay. As the polyurethane elastic yarn used in the present invention, conventionally known yarns can be used. That is, polyester urethane yarn or polyether urethane yarn can be used. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to use polyester urethane yarn. This is because polyester urethane yarns are less susceptible to deterioration due to chlorine present in tap water than polyether urethane yarns, and the stretch recovery properties of the resulting stretch knitted fabrics may deteriorate over time. This is because the bursting strength is less likely to decrease over time. The fineness of the polyurethane elastic yarn is 20 to 70.
A material of approximately 1 denier is used, and it is particularly preferable to use a material of approximately 40 denier. The polyester yarn used in the present invention is composed of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. Polyethylene terephthalate is a copolymer of an ethylene glycol component and a terephthalic acid component, but a certain amount of a third component may be added. Further, polybutylene terephthalate is a copolymer of a butylene glycol component and a terephthalic acid component, but in this case as well, a small amount of a third component may be added. The mixing ratio of polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate is polyethylene terephthalate: polyethylene terephthalate 95-55% by weight: 5-45% by weight. If the amount of polybutylene terephthalate is less than 5% by weight, the dyeability of the polyester yarn will be poor, the staining of the polyurethane elastic yarn will be severe, and the color fastness of various types will decrease, or the polyester yarn will be contaminated. This is not preferred because it becomes difficult to dye the stripes in a deep color, and the amount of polybutylene terephthalate is 45% by weight.
Exceeding this is not preferable because the amount of dye discharged during reduction washing after dyeing becomes large, making it difficult to dye in deep colors. The polyester yarn used in the present invention has a unique melting point peak. The method for measuring this melting point peak is as follows. That is, using a differential scanning calorimeter model DSC-2C manufactured by PerkinElmer, measurement is performed on sample 3 at a heating rate of 20° C./min. And in this measurement,
A polyester yarn having only one melting point peak is used. Having a single melting point peak means that polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, which constitute this polyester yarn, are uniformly mixed. Therefore, a polyester yarn having two or more melting point peaks is not preferable because the polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are not sufficiently homogenized and staining occurs when dyed. In addition, the polyester yarn used in the present invention is 130
“The standard deviation of thermal stress value at C is 0.05 g/
d or less. The method for measuring this thermal stress value is as follows. That is, using a dynamic avidity meter DYNAFIL-M manufactured by Barberstine, the britension was 0.
04 g/d, test speed 50 m/min, test length 10
Thermal stress values were measured under conditions of 00 m and a temperature of 130°C. Then, the output signal corresponding to the thermal stress value during measurement is output for 58-s.
The standard deviation of the thermal stress values was calculated by importing the data into a computer at ec intervals. The temperature condition was set to 130°C in order to give the yarn a thermal effect similar to the thermal temperature effect during dyeing. The polyester yarn used in the present invention has a standard deviation of thermal stress values of 0.05 g/d or less in this measurement method. If the standard deviation of the thermal stress value exceeds 0.05, unevenness will occur in the thermal properties of the yarn in the longitudinal direction, making dyeing unevenness more likely to occur, which is not preferable. The above polyester yarn is prepared by uniformly mixing 95 to 55% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips and 5 to 45% by weight of polybutylene terephthalate chips.
It is obtained by melt spinning. Of course, various additives such as matting agents, stabilizers, and antistatic agents may be added during this mixing. After melt spinning, a polyester yarn can be obtained by a conventional method. In particular, after melt spinning, cooling solidification treatment and oiling treatment are performed without stretching or heat treatment, 6
It is preferable to obtain a polyester yarn by winding the yarn through a godet roller or a godet tress at a high speed of 000 m/min or more. If the winding speed is less than 6000 m/min, the dyeability tends to decrease. In addition, before winding up, an interlacing treatment or the like may be performed as desired. The polyester yarn used in the present invention has a single yarn fineness of 0.
The total fineness is preferably 20 to 200 deniers, particularly 30 to 180 deniers. Further, it is practically preferable that the tensile strength of the polyester yarn is 3.5 g/d or more and the elongation is 60% or less. A knitted fabric is obtained by inter-knitting the above elastic polyurethane yarn and polyester yarn. As for the alternating knitting method, the commonly used alternating knitting by warp knitting, alternating knitting by double knitting machine, or alternating knitting method by interlacing knitting rings by performing plating on single knitting machine are adopted. be done. When knitting the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is suitable to use the following gauge as fabric for sports clothing. That is, in the case of a warp knitting machine, it is preferable to use one in the range of 22 to 32 gauge, particularly 28 gauge. For double Nitl-&W machines, those in the range of 20 to 32 gauge,
In particular, it is preferable to use a gauge of 22 to 24. In the case of a single knit knitting machine, it is preferable to use one in the range of 18 to 32 gauge, especially one in the range of 24 to 28 gauge. The knitted fabric obtained as described above is dyed by a conventional polyester dyeing method. That is, it is dyed using a disperse dye and then subjected to reduction cleaning. As the disperse dye, commonly available ones may be used. In the case of dyeing by immersion dyeing, the material may be immersed in a dye bath at 90 to 100°C for 20 to 120 minutes, particularly preferably 30 to 60 minutes. In addition, when printing by textile printing, a method of applying a disperse dye in a predetermined pattern and then dyeing with normal pressure saturated steam or a method of dyeing with superheated steam at 120 to 170° C. is adopted. As the dyeing machine, a commonly used wince dyeing machine or jet dyeing machine is used. After dyeing, reduction washing is performed to remove excess dye from the surface to improve color fastness.

【Example】

Example 1 55% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips with a relative viscosity of 1.38 and 45% by weight of polybutylene terephthalate chips with a relative viscosity of 1.69 were uniformly mixed and supplied to an extruder type melt spinning machine, and the spinning temperature was 290%. Discharged from a spinneret at ℃, after cooling solidification and oiling, 600℃
It was wound at a speed of 0 m/min to obtain a polyester yarn of 50 denier/24 filaments. Note that the relative viscosity is calculated using an equal weight mixture of phenol and tetrachloroethane as a solvent at a concentration of 0.5 g/dC at a temperature of 25°C.
Measured under the following conditions. The polyester yarn obtained by the above method had a single melting point peak, and the standard deviation of the thermal stress value at 130°C was 0.0046 g/d. In addition, the tensile strength is 4.4g/d, the elongation is 48%, and the melting point is 244"C1
The birefringence was 0.136. The tensile strength and elongation were measured using Autograph 03S-500 manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation under conditions of a sample length of 30C11 and a tensile rate of 30C11/min. The melting point was measured using a differential scanning calorimeter model DSC-2C manufactured by PerkinElmer Co., Ltd. using Sample 3 at a heating rate of 20° C./min. Further, the birefringence index was measured using a polarizing microscope equipped with a Berek compensator and using tricresyl phosphate as an immersion liquid. Using this polyester yarn and a 40 denier polyurethane elastic yarn, a knitted fabric was obtained by inter-knitting under the following conditions. The test was carried out under conditions of a temperature of 120° C. and a time of 1 minute. ■Heat setting: Heat setting was performed using a pin tenter (manufactured by Jukin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) at a temperature of 170° C. for 1 hour and 30 seconds. ■Dyeing■Relaxation Refining Notes■Reduction cleaning is performed in the dyeing machine after dyeing is completed. ■Drying: Wash a bin tenter (manufactured by Jukin Industries, Ltd. ■) with warm water at 60°C for 10 minutes, and then wash with water. ■Drying and finishing: After centrifugal dehydration, sun stand) ES-
11 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries ■, antistatic agent) 5g//! Dehydrate in a mangle through a bath. Thereafter, it is dried using a pin tenter at a temperature of 160° C. for 2 hours and 30 seconds. Example 2 Using the polyurethane elastic yarn and polyester yarn used in Example 1, a knitted fabric was obtained by inter-knitting under the following conditions (1) to (4). (1) Knitting machine: LPJ-H type 33''X22G (manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki) (2) Knitting structure: As shown in Figure 1. That is, the first yarn feeder (hereinafter, the yarn feeder is referred to as F). ), the cylinder needle C3 performs tuck knitting and dial stitching, D2 knits W, and the front and back sides of the knitted fabric are knotted. Using a two-hole yarn feeder, feed the polyester yarn into the a hole and the polyurethane elastic yarn into the b hole, and carry out nira [with the cylinder needles 01 and C2.In the 3rd F, the same feeding as in the 2nd F is performed. Perform knitting with cylinder needle C1 using the thread method and thread. 4th F
Now, feed the polyester yarn and attach it to the cylinder needle 02.
Tuck knitting is performed with dial needles D1 and D2, and knit knitting is performed with dial needles D1 and D2. In the 5th F, knitting is performed using the same yarn feeding method and yarn as in the 2nd F. In the 6th F, knitting is performed using the cylinder needle 02 using the same yarn feeding method and thread as in the 3rd F. (3) Draft rate when feeding polyurethane elastic yarn:
200% (4) Yarn length when feeding polyester yarn: 1st F (
4th F) - 37.7cm/100 wale 2nd F (
5th F) -27,3am/100 well 3rd F
(6th F)...21.4 CI/100 The method for measuring the wale yarn length is as follows. That is, mark any wale of the knitted fabric, and 10
Count and mark the 0 wale, unweave it, and apply a load of (1/10) g/d of the total denier to the yarn length between the two marks.
The length was measured. Using this knitted fabric, ■Except not heat setting.
A stretch knitted fabric was obtained by processing in the same manner as in Example 1. Comparative Example 1 In place of the polyester yarn used in Example 1, 50 denier/24 filament deformed bright nylon 6 yarn was used. The staining conditions were as follows, and the following fix treatment was added. A stretchable knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. (The following is a blank space) - Comparative Example 2 of Dyeing/Fix Treatment In place of the polyester yarn used in Example 1, a 50 denier/24 filament semi-dull cation dyeable polyester yarn was used. Furthermore, the staining conditions and soaping conditions were as follows. A stretchable knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for the above. - Dyeing record A stretchable knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. Note: Reduction cleaning is performed in the dyeing machine after dyeing is completed.・Soaping is done in the dyeing machine after reduction cleaning. Various color fastnesses and mechanical properties of the stretchable knitted fabrics obtained by the methods of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 above were measured,
It is shown in Table 1. (The following is a blank space) Comparative Example 3 In place of the polyester yarn used in Example 1, polybutylene terephthalate yarn was used. Further, the conditions for reduction cleaning were as follows. Other than these results, the stretchable knitted fabrics according to Examples 1 and 2 were excellent in various color fastnesses and mechanical properties, and were good for practical use. On the other hand, the knitted fabric according to Comparative Example 1 had poor light fastness and chlorine fastness. Further, the knitted fabric according to Comparative Example 2 had poor light fastness, was prone to pilling and snagging, and also had low bursting strength. In addition, although the knitted fabric according to Comparative Example 3 is slightly superior to the knitted fabrics according to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 in terms of various color fastnesses and mechanical properties,
Compared to Examples, the water fastness and seawater fastness were inferior.

[Action and effect of the invention]

The stretchable knitted fabric according to the present invention is obtained by dyeing a knitted fabric obtained by inter-knitting a polyurethane elastic yarn and a certain specific polyester yarn by a conventional method, In particular, since a specific type of polyester yarn is used, it has excellent color fastness and mechanical properties. Further, by employing the manufacturing method according to the present invention, it is possible to satisfactorily dye a stretch knitted fabric in a deep color, and it is also effective in that staining spots are less likely to occur. Therefore, the stretchable knitted fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention can be particularly suitably used as a housing for sports clothing.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows a knitting organization chart of the double knit I-m fabric according to the second embodiment. FIG. 2 particularly shows the yarn feeding state in the case of knitting based on the organization chart of FIG. 1.

Claims (1)

[Claims] Polyurethane elastic yarn, 95 to 55% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate, and 5 to 5% by weight of polybutylene terephthalate
45% by weight, has a single melting point peak, and has a standard deviation of thermal stress value at 130°C of 0.05g/
A method for producing a stretchable knitted fabric, which comprises dyeing or printing a knitted fabric obtained by inter-knitting polyester yarns of d or less using a disperse dye, and then performing reduction washing.