JPH0441771A - Production of high-density cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject cloth having mild and soft feeling by producing a knit or woven fabric containing more than specific amount of a blended polyester filament yarn composed of a specific thick-denier yarn and a fine- denier yarn, subjecting the fabric to relaxed shrinkage treatment and thinning with an alkali. CONSTITUTION:A thick-denier polyester filament yarn having a hot water shrinkage of >=20%, a peak temperature of >=100 deg.C and a maximum thermal stress of >=0.4g/d is blended and interlocked with a fine-denier polyester filament yarn having a hot water shrinkage of < 20%. A knit or woven fabric containing >=35wt.% of the above blended yarn is subjected to relaxed shrinkage treatment and then alkali-thinning treatment to attain an alkali thinning ratio (N) satisfying the formula 0.2Rx<=N<=1.25Rx (Rx is shrinkage in relaxed shrinkage treatment).

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] [Industrial application field]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density fabric that has a mellow and soft feel as well as excellent firmness and elasticity.

[Conventional technology]

In recent years, in the clothing field, mellow and soft textures and
There is a growing demand for fabrics that have good resilience and texture, which is known as firmness and waist. In response to this demand, a conventional method has been adopted in which a strong twist is applied to the yarn and the yarn is knitted, knitted and woven to obtain a fabric. It is true that by giving strong twists to the threads that make up the fabric, it is possible to give the fabric firmness and elasticity. However, the texture of the yarn itself deteriorates significantly, making it difficult to impart a mellow and soft texture to the fabric. For this reason, methods of obtaining fabrics have been adopted, such as using plied yarns in which a polyester filament yarn with high rigidity and a soft polyester filament yarn with low rigidity are aligned and twisted together, or interlaced yarn in which both yarns are entangled with a fluid. has been done. Indeed, even in this method, the highly rigid polyester filament yarn provides firmness and stiffness, and the soft polyester filament yarn provides a soft texture. However, since both yarns are exposed on the surface of this fabric, the difference in dyeability between the two yarns may cause irritation on the surface of the fabric. Furthermore, when this fabric is subjected to alkali weight loss treatment in order to give it a mellow texture, it has the disadvantage that it tends to lose firmness and elasticity. The above-mentioned drawbacks were particularly noticeable when plied and twisted yarns made of highly rigid polyester filament yarns and ultra-fine polyester filament yarns were used.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

Therefore, the present invention uses a filament yarn that satisfies a specific condition as a polyester filament yarn with high rigidity, and uses a specific filament yarn as a polyester filament yarn with low rigidity, and mixes and intertwines both yarns. By applying a certain alkali weight reduction treatment to a knitted fabric containing a predetermined amount of equal mixed yarns, we can create a high-density fabric that has both a mellow and soft texture and a firm and firm texture. It is intended to provide.

[Means to solve the problem]

That is, the present invention provides a knitted fabric containing at least 35% by weight of a mixed yarn consisting of a thick polyester filament yarn and a fine polyester filament yarn.
A method for producing a high-density fabric in which an alkaline weight loss treatment is performed after scouring and relaxing shrinkage treatment, wherein the thick polyester filament yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate of 20% or more and a peak temperature of 100°C or more. The fine polyester filament yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate of less than 20%, and the alkali reduction treatment in the alkali weight loss treatment satisfies three conditions: Weight loss rate is 0.2Rx≦N≦1.25R
x (where N represents the alkali weight loss rate and RX represents the shrinkage rate during relaxation shrinkage treatment). The thick polyester filament yarn used in the present invention has a hot water shrinkage rate of 20% or more, a peak temperature of 100°C or more, and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.4 g.
It satisfies the following three conditions: /d or more. Here, the hot water shrinkage rate is measured by the following method. In other words, the thread is wound up by a certain length with a winding machine,
Its length under an initial load of 1 g/d is boiled, then treated in boiling hot water for 15 minutes in an unrestrained state, and then air-dried to its length under an initial load of 1 g/d. When the length is 11, this is the value calculated by the following formula. Hot water shrinkage rate (%)=((f,-1+)#!,)xlOO. In the present invention, the hot water shrinkage rate of the thick polyester filament yarn must be 20% or more, particularly preferably the hot water shrinkage rate is 22 to 60%, and the hot water shrinkage rate is less than 20%. If this happens, the shrinkage rate of the knitted fabric will be low, and it will be difficult to give the resulting fabric good firmness and elasticity. Moreover, the peak temperature is the temperature at which the maximum value of the hot water shrinkage rate is exhibited. The measurement method is the same as the hot water shrinkage measurement described above, by varying the processing temperature and detecting the temperature at which the maximum shrinkage is achieved. In the present invention, the peak temperature must be 200°C or higher. If the peak temperature is less than 100℃, there is a risk of shrinkage at low temperatures.
This is not preferable because it may shrink in processes other than the shrinkage process, such as the weaving process and the dyeing process, resulting in deterioration of the properties of the mixed yarn and generation of wrinkles in the knitted fabric. Moreover, the maximum thermal stress value is measured by the following method. That is, using a commercially available dry heat shrinkage stress measuring device, the sample was made into a ring with a diameter of 15 el, and the initial tension was set at 60/d, and the measurement was performed at a heating rate of 300°C/60 sec. In the present invention, the maximum thermal stress value must be 0.4 g/d or more. In particular, the maximum stress value is 0.4-0.7
g/d is preferable, and more preferably 0.45 to 0.65 g/d.
The amount of d is also preferable. If the maximum thermal stress value is less than 0.4 g/d, sufficient shrinkage behavior will not be obtained in the shrinking process, making it difficult to impart good firmness and elasticity to the resulting fabric. The thick polyester filament yarn used in the present invention must satisfy the above three conditions, and if even one condition is outside the range, the object of the present invention cannot be achieved. For example, even if the hot water shrinkage rate is 40%, if the maximum thermal stress value is less than 0.4 g/d, sufficient shrinkage behavior of the knitted fabric will not be obtained during the shrinkage process, resulting in a fabric with firmness and stiffness. becomes difficult to obtain. In addition, the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4g
/d or more, if the hot water shrinkage rate is less than 20%, sufficient shrinkage behavior cannot be imparted to the knitted fabric, making it difficult to obtain a fabric with firmness and stiffness. In the present invention, the meaning of "thickness" in the phrase "thickness polyester filament yarn" is used in the relative sense of being thicker than the fineness of the other fineness polyester filament yarn. Therefore, the specific denier or more of the thick fineness is not particularly limited, but it is generally preferably 2 denier (d) or more. As a raw material for the thick polyester filament yarn used in the present invention, it is preferable to use a terpolymer polyester. For example, the total of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid is 85 mol% or more, and the isophthalic acid is 15 mol Preference is given to using polyesters consisting of up to %. The fine-grained polyester filament yarn used in the present invention must have a hot water shrinkage rate of less than 20%. If the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 20%, the entire knitted fabric will shrink severely and the obtained fabric may become hardened.
Undesirable. Note that the hot water shrinkage rate in this case is also measured by the same method as described above. The term "fineness" in the phrase "fineness polyester filament yarn" is used in the relative sense of being finer than the other thicker polyester filament yarn. Therefore, the fineness is not particularly limited to a specific denier, but it is generally 2 denier (d
) or less. When the fineness of the polyester filament yarn exceeds 2 deniers, the stiffness of the mixed fiber yarn becomes too high, and the texture of the resulting fabric tends to harden. A mixed yarn is obtained by mixing the above-mentioned thick polyester filament yarn and fine polyester filament yarn. In order to mix both yarns, for example, both yarns may be pulled together and twisted together, or they may be entangled with a fluid. Next, a knitted fabric is obtained using this mixed yarn. At this time, the mixed fiber yarn should be 35% by weight or more of the weight of the entire knitted fabric. As the yarn other than the mixed yarn, yarns commonly used in the past can be employed. When 35% by weight of the mixed fiber yarn is ungrooved, the amount of thick polyester filament yarn with certain physical properties decreases, the shrinkage of the knitted fabric decreases, and the resulting fabric has firmness and elasticity. things become difficult. Note that the knitted fabric may include a woven fabric such as a plain weave structure, or a knitted fabric having an IIW structure or a warp knit structure. This knitted fabric is subjected to refinement and relaxation shrinkage treatment. Refining is carried out using commonly used continuous refining equipment, jet dyeing machines, etc., and if desired, using a desizing agent etc. 70
It can be carried out in hot water of ~100°C. The relax shrinkage treatment is carried out at 100°C or higher, preferably at 110°C or higher, using a commonly used jet dyeing machine or the like.
It is carried out using hot water at 130°C. In this relaxing shrinkage process, the knitted fabric shrinks. The shrinkage rate in this process is expressed as Rx in the present invention. This shrinkage rate Rx is obtained by measuring the shrinkage rates of the knitted fabric in the warp direction and the weft direction, and selecting the one with the larger value of the shrinkage rate. This relaxing shrinkage treatment causes the thick polyester filament yarns in the knitted fabric to shrink, resulting in a fabric with high density, firmness, and elasticity. After this rela-nx shrinkage treatment, an alkali weight reduction treatment is performed. This alkali weight loss treatment can be carried out by a conventionally known method, for example by immersing the knitted fabric in a caustic soda aqueous solution. What is important in the present invention is to keep the alkali weight loss rate (N) within a certain range in this alkali weight loss treatment. That is, 0.2Rx≦N≦1°25
Alkali weight reduction treatment is performed within the range of Rx. If the alkali weight loss rate is less than 0.2 times the shrinkage rate during the relaxing shrinkage treatment, it is undesirable because it becomes difficult to impart a soft feel and mellowness to the resulting fabric. If the shrinkage rate is more than 1.25 times, it is not preferable because the firmness and waist obtained by the relaxing shrinkage process will be reduced. Note that the alkali weight loss rate is calculated using the following formula. That is, N= ((we-
W,)/W6)xt. It is O. However, Wo represents the weight of the knitted fabric before the alkali weight loss treatment, and w represents the weight of the knitted fabric after the alkali weight loss treatment. As described above, a knitted fabric is obtained using a special mixed yarn, and after this knitted fabric is refined and subjected to relaxation shrinkage treatment, it is subjected to an alkaline weight loss treatment to achieve a certain weight loss rate. A high-density fabric according to the invention can be manufactured. In addition, in the present invention, it goes without saying that a conventional presetting process may be performed between the relaxing shrinkage process and the alkali weight loss process, and a conventional dyeing process may be performed after the alkali weight loss process. be.

【Example】

Example 1 A polyester containing 12 mol % of an isophthalic acid component in addition to the ethylene glycol component and the terephthalic acid component was melt-spun to obtain a thick polyester filament yarn. The hot water shrinkage rate of this thick polyester filament yarn was 25%, the peak temperature was 132° C., and the maximum thermal stress value was 0.5 g/d. Further, the average fineness of the thick polyester filament yarn was 2.5 denier. And 30 pieces made of this filament thread
A denier/12 filament polyester multifilament was prepared. On the other hand, a commercially available polyester multifilament of 50 denier/48 filaments was prepared. The hot water shrinkage rate of the fine-grained polyester filament yarn constituting this multifilament was 6.0%, and the maximum thermal stress value was 0.5 g/d. The multifilament made of the thick polyester filament yarn and the multifilament made of the fine polyester filament yarn were interlaced and then subjected to additional twisting of S-3007/M to obtain a mixed yarn. A plain woven fabric was woven using this mixed yarn for the warp and weft. This plain woven fabric was coated with caustic soda Ig/f using a circular dyeing machine manufactured by Himi Seisakusho. Sunmoor FL (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL ■, surfactant) 1g/l
Refining was carried out at a temperature of 80° C. for 9 hours and 20 minutes. Then, using the dyeing machine, the temperature was 130″C.
Relaxation contraction treatment was performed for 1 hour and 15 minutes. As a result, the contraction rate during the relaxation contraction process was 3.
1% (since the shrinkage in the warp direction was large, the shrinkage rate in the warp direction was adopted). After the relaxation shrinkage treatment, presetting was performed at a temperature of 180° C. for 1 hour and 20 seconds using a tenter manufactured by Jukin Kogyo Co., Ltd. Thereafter, it was immersed in a solution of 40 g/12 boiled caustic soda for 65 minutes to perform alkali weight loss treatment. As a result, the weight loss rate was 21% by weight. The fabric thus obtained is dyed using a circular dyeing machine using a conventional polyester dyeing method (disperse dye, Blu
e Medium color) was performed. After this, more Sunstad) ES-1
1 (antistatic agent manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries ■) at 1.0% o, w
, f was applied, and after drying, final setting was performed again using a tenter manufactured by Jukin Kogyo Co., Ltd. at a temperature of 170''C for 1 hour and 20 seconds.The high-density fabric obtained as described above had good results. Comparative Example 1 The following conditions were used for the alkali weight reduction treatment.
A fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1. That is, the conditions for the alkali weight loss treatment were 8 minutes of immersion in a solution of boiling caustic soda of 40 g/l. Note that this weight loss rate was 4% by weight. Although the fabric obtained as described above had good elasticity, it had a rough and stiff feel and did not have a soft texture. Comparative Example 2 Except for adopting the following conditions as alkali weight loss treatment,
A fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1. That is, the conditions for the alkali weight loss treatment are: 40 g of boiled caustic soda! solution for 125 minutes. The weight loss rate was 42% by weight. Although the fabric obtained as described above has a soft texture and good drape properties, it lacks firmness and waist, and has a poor texture balance. Met. Comparative Example 3 Plain woven fabric using 80 denier/60 filament regular polyester filament yarn for the warp and alternately using the blended yarn used in Example 1 and 80 denier/60 filament regular polyester filament yarn for the weft. A fabric was produced in the same manner as in the example except that the fabric was obtained. The weight ratio of the mixed fiber yarn in this plain woven fabric was 20% by weight. The fabric obtained as described above had a low fabric density and lacked firmness and elasticity. Comparative Example 4 A fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 using the same thick polyester filament yarn as in Example 1, except that the maximum thermal stress value was 0.2 g/d. The fabric obtained as described above had a low fabric density, lacked firmness and elasticity, and had an unbalanced texture. Comparative Example 5 A fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a 50 denier/12 filament polyester multifilament made of fine filament yarn was used. The fabric obtained as described above was somewhat hard, lacked a soft texture, and had an unbalanced texture. Comparative Example 6 Example 1 was prepared using the same thick polyester filament yarn as in Example 1 except that the hot water shrinkage rate was 9.8%.
A fabric was produced in the same manner as above. The fabric obtained as described above had a low fabric density, lacked firmness and stiffness, and had a poor texture. Example 2 A fabric was produced in the same manner as in Example 1, except that a four-stage double-sided knitted fabric was knitted using a mixed yarn instead of a plain weave. The fabric obtained as described above has good firmness and waist,
Moreover, it had a soft texture.

[Action and effect of the invention]

In the present invention, a knitted fabric is knitted and woven using a certain amount of mixed yarn made of thick filament yarns having a certain specific hot water shrinkage rate, peak temperature, and maximum thermal stress value. Since the knitted fabric is subjected to a relaxing shrinkage treatment, it is possible to increase the density of the knitted fabric. Therefore, the resulting fabric can be given a repulsive force called firmness and elasticity. In addition, fine filament yarn is mixed in the knitted fabric, and the hot water shrinkage rate of this fine filament yarn is smaller than that of thick filament yarn, so the surface of the knitted fabric is mainly affected after relaxing shrinkage treatment. A fine filament yarn appears. Therefore, the resulting fabric has a soft feel. Furthermore, since the knitted fabric is subjected to alkali weight loss treatment at a weight loss rate within a certain range, it prevents the above-mentioned loss of firmness and waist.
Gives drapability and softness to the resulting fabric. Therefore, the high-density fabric obtained by the manufacturing method according to the present invention is of high quality, having good firmness and elasticity, soft texture, and mellowness, and is suitable for use in clothing. It is.

Claims (1)

[Claims] At least 35 mixed yarns consisting of thick polyester filament yarn and fine polyester filament yarn
A method for producing a high-density fabric in which a knitted fabric containing at least % by weight is subjected to refining and relaxing shrinkage treatment, and then subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, wherein the thick polyester filament yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate of 20% or more. , the peak temperature is 100℃ or higher, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4.
g/d or more, the fineness polyester filament yarn has a hot water shrinkage rate of less than 20%, and the alkali weight loss rate in the alkali weight loss treatment is 0.2Rx≦N≦1. .25Rx (where N represents the alkali weight loss rate, and Rx represents the shrinkage rate during relaxation shrinkage treatment).