JPH0444006B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a front fur interlining used as an interlining material for men's clothing, etc. In particular, the inventor of the present application previously
Regarding the improvement of processed hair core proposed in No. 43422.

[Conventional technology]

The processed hair wick proposed in the above-mentioned prior publication is made by successively polymerizing a bass wick with a shoulder bass sandwiched between the front shoulders of a stand wick that is cut in advance and provided with L-shaped darts on both sides of the waistline, and a felt wick. Then, using a Lewis sewing machine or the like, the thread is loosened and sewn in a bias direction from the shoulder opening to the first button, and additional stitching is sewn downward from the waistline in a curved shape, making it slightly hanging. It is a processed hair core,
As a result, the breast bulge and waist line that fit the body shape can be created relatively easily in the tailored product without using finishing presses, etc., and the clothes are less likely to lose their shape even after being worn for many years. However, even with this processed wool core, there were still cases where the patient was unsatisfied with the tension in the shoulders and the bulge in the chest.

[Structure of the invention]

The object of the present invention is to further improve the processed hair core according to the prior application, and to provide a front hair core that is easy to wear and provides a beautiful shoulder line.

This purpose is to provide a base core according to the present invention which is pre-cut and has L-shaped darts on both sides of the waistline, and a chest core that reinforces the upper half of the base core from the waistline, excluding the lapel part. A shoulder bus that further reinforces the shoulders of the chest bus core and a felt core that lines almost the entire chest bus core are laminated one after another, and the threads are loosened using a Lewis sewing machine or the like, and the first layer is sewn from the shoulder. It is sewn in the bias direction toward the button, and the additional thread is sewn in a curved shape from the waistline to the lower half of the core, with a slightly hanging feel. The felt core is a fabric cut so that its width is slightly narrower than the width of the bath core, and its lower edge is rounded. The fabric is made by cutting a strong fabric on the bias, and is further characterized in that thick sleki tape is fixed to the side edges of the shoulder bus core and the chest bus core, which correspond to the boundary area between the lapel part and the upper collar part. This is achieved by the front hair core.

According to the present invention, the effect of the felt core cut into a unique shape emphasizes the natural and beautiful bulge in the chest area of the upper garment. In addition, by using a specially designed shoulder bus core with particular tension, there is room in the front shoulder area, making it easier to wear and creating a beautiful and durable shoulder line. Furthermore, by using thick sled tape, the connection between the upper collar and lapel becomes smoother,
A natural fold line is formed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail based on preferred embodiments shown in the drawings.

〔Example〕

FIG. 1 is a partially cutaway plan view from the front side showing the laminated state of the front fur core of the present invention. is placed. The core 1 has L-shaped darts A on both sides of the waistline, and predetermined darts B and C are also provided on the shoulders and underarms. On the lower side of this stand core 1, a bath core 2 and a felt core 3 are laminated on the entire upper half above the waist line, excluding the label area, to form a three-layer structure. A shoulder bus core 4 is sandwiched between the shoulder overlap region of the bus core 1 and the felt core 3, forming a four-layer structure only in this region. These are attached to the base core 1 using a Lewis sewing machine or the like.
The thread is loosened and stitched in 10 to 15 rows of D stitches in the bias direction from the shoulder opening to the first button. On the other hand, an additional stitch 5 is laminated on the lower half of the core 1 below the waistline, and is sewn with stitches E in a curved shape using a zigzag sewing machine or the like.

This basic structure is substantially the same as the processed hair core disclosed in the earlier patent publication mentioned above. The present invention improves the basic configuration by making the following changes.

That is, the first point is that instead of the conventionally used fabric obtained by weaving wool and hair as the weft, the shoulder bath core 4 is made of a particularly strong and tight material woven with thick horsehair as the weft. This is due to the fact that the fabric is cut in a biased manner. By using this unique shoulder bus core 4, the shoulder part of the front hair core of the present invention becomes even more firm, and when it is sandwiched between the front and back fabrics 7 and sewn as part of a jacket, the front shoulder core of the present invention becomes even more firm. can be held in a desired shape. In particular, there is more room in the front shoulder area, so it is easier to wear and will not lose its shape even if worn for a long time.

The second point is that the shape and dimensions of the felt core 3 are made slightly narrower than the width of the chest bath core 2, as shown by diagonal lines in FIG. 2, and the lower edge is rounded. This cutting method allows the sewn jacket to have a soft, natural bulge on the outer material that extends to the waistline.

The third point is the stacked chest bus core 2 and shoulder bus core 4.
A slightly thicker slip tape 6 is laminated and fixed along the folding line of the lapel, spanning the boundary area of the lapel. Due to the presence of the tape 6 that connects the two, the lapel fold line of the sewn upper garment and the upper collar line are smoothly continuous, forming a beautiful line.

Naturally, the front hair core of the present invention still enjoys the effects brought about by the basic structure of the earlier application. In other words, since it has the ability to stretch in a bias direction, if you tension it in a certain direction, you can freely create a bulge in your chest depending on the balance between each dart provided on it and the waistline. It easily adapts to the front and lining materials to be covered, and therefore, setting the core does not require the advanced techniques and skills required in the past, and can be carried out relatively easily even by an inexperienced worker. In addition, the L-shaped darts provided on both sides of the stand core eliminate the swimming at the peak of the season and stabilize the neckline.

At the tailoring stage of the front hair core of the present invention, first,
This can be tensioned in a bias direction from the shoulder opening to the first button to create an appropriate bulge in the chest and shoulders, and in this state the front and lining can be sewn together.

〔Effect of the invention〕

As detailed above, by using the front hair core of the present invention, it is possible to easily obtain shoulder and chest lines that suit the body shape of the jacket after tailoring, without having to perform finishing presses or other settings, making it easy to wear. At the same time, it does not lose its shape even after being worn for many years.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a partially cutaway surface view of the front hair core according to the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a back view similarly seen from the back. 1... Stand core, 2... Chest bass core, 3... Felt core, 4... Shoulder bass core, 5... Increased slip, 6...
Sleek tape.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A stand core that is cut in advance and has L-shaped darts on both sides of the waistline, a chest core that reinforces the upper half of the core than the waistline except for the lapel, and the shoulders of the chest core. A shoulder bus core that further reinforces the chest bus core and a felt core that lines almost the entire chest bus core are laminated one after another, and the threads are loosened using a Lewis sewing machine or the like and sewn in a bias direction from the shoulder opening to the first button. It is a front wool core mainly used as interlining material for men's clothing, in which the felt core is sewn together, and a thickened thread is sewn in a curved shape from the waist line to the lower half of the core in a slightly hanging manner. The fabric is cut so that its width is slightly narrower than the width of the bath core, and its lower edge is rounded. The front hair core is made of cut fabric, and further includes thick slat tape fixed to the side edges of the shoulder bus core and the chest bus core corresponding to the boundary area between the lapel part and the upper collar part.