JPH048540B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

<Industrial Application Field> The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material having a feel similar to silk. <Prior Art> Polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate have various excellent properties and are therefore widely used in woven and knitted fabrics. However, woven or knitted fabrics using such polyester fibers do not have a pleasant feel compared to natural silk fiber woven or knitted fabrics. For example, silk fiber woven and knitted fabrics have a unique luxurious dry feel,
It has a squeaky feel, but it is extremely difficult to express this with polyester fibers. Therefore, by adding and mixing an incompatible substance, such as a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid, to polyester and treating this with an alkaline solution, striped voids are created on the fiber surface. A method has been proposed to bring the texture of polyester woven and knitted materials closer to that of silk (Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 1989-1999).
-20613 Publication). This modification method provides a dry feeling,
It is noteworthy that the squeak feeling is significantly improved. On the other hand, however, when using the woven or knitted fabric, fibrillation of the fibers, particularly fibrillation of the fiber surface, occurs, causing problems such as surface abrasion and discoloration and fading of the abraded portion. <Object of the Invention> The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems and provide a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material that has a high quality dry feel and does not cause the phenomenon of fibrillation. <Structure and operation of the invention> The present invention provides a spun yarn obtained by spinning polyester containing 0.5 to 3% by weight of a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the following general formula () at a take-up speed of 5000 m/min or more. This method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material is characterized in that it is made into a woven or knitted material without substantially stretching, and then the woven or knitted material is treated with an alkaline solution to generate streak-like voids on the surface of the fibers. R- _SO3M ...() [R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 7 to 30 carbon atoms
40 aryl or alkylaryl groups.
M represents an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal. ] The polyester in the present invention refers to a polyester having fiber-forming ability that is mainly composed of aromatic dicarboxylic acids, such as polyethylene terephthalate, polytetramethylene terephthalate, polycyclohexane dimethylene terephthalate, and polyethylene-2,6-naphthalene. Dicarboxylate and the like can be mentioned. Moreover, these polyesters may be copolymers obtained by copolymerizing other glycols or other carboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid or 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as a third component, or may also be a mixture of these various polyesters. good. Of these, polyethylene terephthalate is most suitable. Furthermore, these polyesters may contain a matting agent, a heat stabilizer, an ultraviolet absorber, an antistatic agent, a terminal stopper, a fluorescent whitening agent, etc., as required. The degree of polymerization is not particularly limited as long as it is within the range for normal fiber molding, but high molecular weight polyesters are more preferred from the viewpoint of preventing fibrillation on the fiber surface. However, in addition to increasing the cost of polymerization, there is a tendency for the spinning condition to deteriorate slightly, so the degree of polymerization, that is, the intrinsic viscosity of polyethylene terephthalate, may be selected depending on the purpose. In the present invention, the organic sulfonic acid metal salt blended into the polyester has the following general formula R-SO ₃ M [R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms or 7 to 7 carbon atoms]
40 aryl or alkylaryl groups.
M represents an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal. ] The one shown is appropriate. In the general formula R
When is an alkyl group or an alkylaryl group, it may have a linear or branched side chain. In particular, from the viewpoint of compatibility with polyester, organic sulfonic acid metal salts in which R is an alkyl group are preferred.
M is an alkali metal such as Na, K, Li or Mg,
Examples include alkaline earth metals such as Ca. Among these, Na and K are preferred. Note that when using the organic sulfonic acid metal salt, it is not necessary to use a single compound, and a mixture of organic sulfonic acid metal salts having various alkyl groups or alkylaryl groups may be used. Preferred examples of such metal organic sulfonates include sodium stearylsulfonate, sodium octylsulfonate, sodium dodecylsulfonate, and mixtures of sodium alkylsulfonates having an average carbon number of 14. It will be done. The amount of organic sulfonic acid metal salt added to polyester is 0.5 to 100% by weight of polyester.
A range of 3% by weight is preferred. If the amount added is less than 0.5% by weight, sufficient micropores will not be created even if the alkali treatment described below is performed, making it difficult to obtain the desired high-grade dry touch. If it is more than 3% by weight, mixing operations, spinning, etc. This is not preferable because it becomes difficult. Such an organic sulfonic acid metal salt is added to the polyester at any stage before the completion of spinning. For example, it can be added in advance to the raw materials for polyester production, or it can be added during the first stage reaction or the subsequent second stage polycondensation reaction, or it can be added to the polymer obtained after the polycondensation reaction and organic It is also possible to melt-mix the sulfonic acid metal salt using, for example, a melt extruder, or to add and mix the polymer with the polymer at a stage before the spinning hole during melt-spinning. The most important requirement in the present invention is to spin the above-mentioned polyester at a speed of 5000 m/mm or more and then form it into a woven or knitted fabric without substantially stretching it. Here, "not substantially stretched" means that the spun yarn is not stretched by more than 5%. 5%
When the yarn is stretched to a degree exceeding . According to the present invention, it has been found that this interfacial peeling causes fibrillation on the fiber surface. In order to produce a woven or knitted fabric without substantially drawing the yarn as described above, it is necessary to perform highly oriented spinning at the spinning stage. However, direct stretching is unsuitable because it is a spinning method in which "stretching" is performed continuously after the spinning process. Next, in the case of high-speed spinning in a heating zone, in which the discharged yarn is cooled and then run through a heating cylinder, a type of non-contact type "stretching" occurs in the heating cylinder, so it also improves fibril resistance. There is a problem.
Similarly, the so-called pin spinning method, in which pins are provided to apply strong tension during the cooling process of the discharged filament, is also undesirable because "stretching" occurs directly under the pins. In addition, when the polyester fiber has a thin single yarn denier of 0.8 denier or less and the running distance from the spinneret to the yarn convergence point is long, a type of "cold drawing" occurs due to air resistance, resulting in poor fibrillation resistance. Unfavorable on top. The most suitable high-speed spinning for the present invention is discharge ~
Cooling - thinning of fiber diameter and netting, and after netting, a fiber structure is formed within about 30 cm,
After that, no fundamental structural changes occur. In this case, the spinning take-off speed is
5000m/min or more is required. Pick up speed is 5000
m/min, mechanical performance is insufficient when producing or using a woven or knitted fabric, resulting in problems such as "sink" and "lol". On the other hand, in the case of a take-up speed of 5000 m/min or more, preferably 6000 m/min or more, the mechanical properties are sufficient for use in clothing applications and the above-mentioned problems do not occur. In the present invention, it is necessary to remove the additives and polyester from the woven or knitted fabric made of high-speed spun yarn using an alkaline aqueous solution such as caustic soda by a known method to generate streak-like voids on the surface of the fibers. It is preferable that more than half of all the voids have a length of 5μ or more and that linear voids with a length/gap width ratio of 5 or more are arranged in the fiber axis direction. The voids do not necessarily have to be continuous. Due to the presence of such streaky voids, polyester woven and knitted fabrics can have a high-quality dry feel and squeaky feel similar to silk. Further, the weight loss rate due to the alkaline solution is preferably in the range of 5 to 30% of the fiber weight. For weight reduction, the woven or knitted fabric does not necessarily have to be made of 100% organic sulfonic acid-containing filament, but may be a mixed yarn fabric made of this filament and a filament with a higher boiling water shrinkage rate than the filament. . <Example> The present invention will be explained in detail with reference to Examples below.
Abrasion fibril evaluation in the examples is performed by the following method. That is, using Daiei Kagaku Seiki Seisakusho's Gakushin-type dyeing abrasion fastness tester, a satin jersey made of polyester filament 75de/36fil (twist number 2500T/M, warp density 37/
cm, latitude density 37 lines/cm). The number of friction is
After rubbing 200 times, the fibril state of the fibers on the surface of the fabric was visually evaluated using a microscope. Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.65) to which a mixture of sodium alkylsulfonates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and an average carbon number of 14 was added in various proportions
After melting at 270 to 300°C, it is discharged from a spinneret with 36 discharge holes with a Y-shaped cross section, cooled and solidified by cross-blown airflow (room temperature air, wind speed 25cm/sec), and then oiled by an oiling roller. Refueled and 6000
It was taken off at a take-up speed of m/min, passed through two godet rollers, and then wound up in a winder as a 50 de/24 fil polyethyl multifilament having a triangular cross section. At this time, an interlace nozzle was installed upstream of the oiling roller to focus the traveling multifilament in order to reduce the air resistance force during high-speed spinning and improve the spinning condition. The distance from the spinneret to the interlace nozzle was 3.5 m, and the distance from the spinneret to the yarn convergence point was approximately 1.4 m. Each polyester filament yarn obtained by this method
Weave 50de/24fil into a plain weave with a warp density of 40 threads/cm and a weft density of 37 threads/cm using 50de/24fil as warp and warp threads, then scouring and presetting the gray fabric according to a conventional method.
After treatment in a caustic soda boiling water bath for 10 to 60 minutes (15% weight loss), it was finished by dyeing and final setting. Regarding these examples, the spinning condition during high-speed spinning, the generation of streaky voids after the woven fabric was treated with alkali, the texture (dry feel), and the fibril resistance were
Compare to table.

[Table] In the case of No. 1, the spinnability is good because it is a high-speed spinning of normal PET without adding sodium alkylsulfonate, but there is no generation of streaky voids due to alkali treatment and the texture of the fabric is dry. I can't see it at all. In the case of No. 2 as well, since the amount of sodium alkylsulfonate added is small, the texture of the fabric lacks a dry feel similar to No. 1. On the other hand, in No. 8, since the amount of sodium alkylsulfonate added was too large, the additive acted as a foreign substance during high-speed spinning, resulting in a marked deterioration in the spinning condition, such as single yarn breakage. On the other hand, Nos. 3 to 7 are examples of the present invention, and when special measures were taken to reduce the air resistance force as described above, there were no particular problems in terms of yarn spinning condition.
On the other hand, the occurrence of streaky voids increased due to the alkali treatment, and along with this, the texture of the fabric began to have a high quality dry feel. Furthermore, the fibrillation resistance was at a level that caused no practical problems. Example 2 Polyethylene terephthalate (intrinsic viscosity 0.65) to which 1% by weight of a mixture of sodium alkylsulfonates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms and an average carbon number of 14 was added
After melting at 270~300℃, a Y-shaped discharge hole is
After the yarn is discharged from the 24 spinnerets, the yarn is spun under the following conditions to produce 50de/24fil with a triangular cross section.
of polyester fibers were obtained. Sample A (comparative example); After being cooled and solidified by cross-blown airflow (room temperature air, wind speed 25 cm/sec), it was oiled by an oiling roller, and then taken up at a take-up speed of 4500 m/min through two godet rollers. I wound it up in a winder. Sample B (invention): Silk was spun in the same manner as Sample A except that the take-up and winding speeds were 5000 m/min. Sample C (invention): 7000m/after cooling and refueling in the same way as sample A
It was wound directly onto the winder without using a godet roller at a speed of 1 minute. At this time, in order to maintain high-speed spinning properties, an interlace nozzle was provided upstream of the oiling roller to focus the traveling multifilament. In addition, the distance from the spinneret to the winding machine was shortened to 4 m, the distance from the spinneret to the interlace nozzle was 2.7 m, and the distance from the spinneret to the yarn convergence point was approximately 1.1 m. Sample D (comparative example): After being drawn up at a speed of 4500 m/min in the same manner as sample A, the film was directly stretched at a speed of 6000 m/min without winding, and wound up on a winder. At this time, the first godet roller of 4500 m/min is not heated, and the 6000 m/min
The second godet roller was heated to 180°C for a minute. Sample E (comparative example): After cooling in the same manner as sample A, under the spinneret
After running a heating cylinder installed at a distance of 2.5m to 3.3m (internal atmosphere temperature 220℃) and refueling, 5000
It was taken up at a speed of m/min and wound onto a winder via two godet rollers. Sample F (comparative example); Winding was performed in the same manner as sample A at a speed of 1500 m/min. This wound yarn was again heat-treated for stretching by 3.5 times at a preheating temperature of 80°C and a slit heater temperature of 200°C. The above samples were weaved, scoured, preset, alkali treated, dyed, and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1.
The fibers were set, and the generation of streaky voids, the texture of the fabric (dry feel), and the fibril resistance were evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2.

[Table] Samples D, E, and F undergo some form of "stretching" during the spinning process. As a result, fibril resistance deteriorates. In the case of Sample A, although the fibrillation resistance was good, there was still some elongation in the raw yarn and the mechanical properties were insufficient, resulting in frequent "sink marks" in the fabric. On the other hand, Samples B and C had satisfactory fabric texture (dry feel) and fibril resistance, and no defects such as fabric "sink" or "smile" were observed.Example 3 Example 1-No.5 Once again, the polyester fiber of
It was stretched at various magnifications at a preheating temperature of 850°C and a slit heater of 200°C. The fibril resistance was evaluated by the same method as in Example 1, and the results shown in Table 3 were obtained.

[Table] Nos. 1 to 3 are made according to the present invention and have good fibril resistance, but fibril resistance deteriorates when the yarn is stretched by more than 5% as in Nos. 4 to 6. . <Effects> As is clear from the above examples, according to the present invention, organic sulfonic acid-containing polyester fibers, which are useful for obtaining a dry and squeaky feeling, but which had the disadvantage of being easily fibrillated, can be replaced. By employing high-speed spinning that does not involve substantially drawing during the spinning process, the above-mentioned drawbacks are eliminated, and a silk-like polyester woven or knitted fabric that can be used practically is provided.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A spun yarn obtained by spinning a polyester containing 0.5 to 3% by weight of a metal salt of an organic sulfonic acid represented by the following general formula () at a take-up speed of 5000 m/min or more. A method for producing a polyester woven or knitted material, which comprises forming a woven or knitted material without stretching, and then treating the woven or knitted material with an alkaline solution to generate streak-like voids on the surface of the fibers. R- _SO3M ...() [R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms or an alkyl group having 7 to 30 carbon atoms
40 aryl or alkylaryl groups.
M represents an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal. ]