JPH0559631A - Cashmere-like woven fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a cashmere-like woven fabric, wholly assuming uniform and natural appearance and excellent in touch by using synthetic fiber. CONSTITUTION:The woven fabric is obtained by using combined filament yarn of heat-shrinkable yarn having 2-6 denier single fiber size and high-count false twisted yarn having <=1.5 denier single fiber size at (50:50)-(70:30) ratio as at least warp yarn, weaving the yarn so as to provide >=2:1 ratio of the number of floated warp yarn to the number of sunk warp yarn and thermally shrinking the above-mentioned heat-shrinkable yarn. Conjugate yarn prepared by eccentrically compounding two kinds of components having >=15% difference in shrinkage factor in boiling water is used as the heat-shrinkable yarn. The woven fabric is produced by a method for carrying out immersing treatment of the obtained woven fabric after weaving in a relaxed state in hot water at >=90 deg.C. The combined filament yarn or hard twisted yarn having a larger size than that of the weft yarn or both are preferably used as the weft yarn.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a synthetic fiber fabric having a texture and a texture similar to that of a cashmere fabric and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art There is a demand for a material having a soft texture for ladies' clothing and the like, and it is well known that a so-called cashmere yarn using high-quality wool is the most suitable material. However, because cashmere yarn is extremely expensive,
It would be advantageous if similar texture could be obtained using cheap synthetic fibers. Generally, as a method of obtaining a soft touch and a feeling, it is known to use a fine fiber having a fineness of several denier or less. However, when weaving only with such yarns, yarn breakage frequently occurs, and it is difficult to obtain a high-quality woven fabric, and the woven fabric also has low strength and lacks a feeling of tension. For this reason, the fine-thinness yarn as described above is mixed and used with other yarns. For example, JP-A-63-13554
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 0 (Japanese Patent Publication No. 3-1417) describes a woven fabric that uses a mixed yarn composed of a fine-twisted false twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less and a high shrinkage filament. However, this is intended to obtain a waterproof fabric having a breathable property by densifying the woven fabric by the contraction action of the high shrinkage filament component and the like, and therefore, the feeling is not important and the fabric is flexible. It was hard to obtain a product having a touch and a texture, and it was hard to be a paper-like product, and it was easy to win. Therefore, we have conducted extensive research to fully utilize the soft texture of fine-thinness yarns and provide a drapeable fabric with a good texture, and have a high boiling water shrinkage difference of 10% or more. A cashmere-like woven fabric is obtained by using a mixed filament yarn consisting of a shrink filament and a low shrink crimp yarn having a fineness of 1.5 denier or less for the warp, and using a strong twist yarn for the weft yarn, such as satin weave. We found that it can be manufactured and applied for a patent as Japanese Patent Application No. 2-313669. By this method, a woven fabric having a very good feel can be obtained, but it still lacks drape and has a defect in appearance such that the texture appears streaky on the surface.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a further improvement of the woven fabric for which the above-mentioned patent application has been made. The surface of the fabric does not appear, and the entire surface has a uniform and natural appearance. An object is to provide a synthetic fiber fabric.

[0004]

The present invention has solved the above problems by using a special composite yarn. That is, the woven fabric of the present invention comprises a heat shrinkable yarn having a single yarn denier of 2 to 6 and a high count false twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less from 50:50.
After weaving using 30:70 mixed yarn at least as warp,
A heat-shrinkable yarn obtained by heat-shrinking, wherein the heat-shrinkable yarn is an eccentrically composited composite yarn containing two types of components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more. And

In the present invention, the mixed yarn composed of the heat shrinkable yarn and the false twisted yarn having a very low fineness is used as the warp yarn as described above. The heat shrinkable yarn has a large boiling water shrinkage ratio. Since the two different components are eccentrically combined and composed of a composite yarn, by heat-treating the obtained woven fabric after the weaving, the heat shrinkability of the mixed yarn is obtained. Because the yarn shrinks, the heat-shrinkable yarn becomes the core, and the surroundings are covered in a crimped state so that the fine false-twisted yarn becomes the sheath, and at the same time, the heat-shrinkable yarn itself that becomes the core shrinks eccentrically. A brushed, cashmere-like product with a very natural appearance and a pleasant touch can be obtained.

The heat-shrinkable yarn, that is, the composite yarn, used in the present invention may be an eccentric composite of two components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more, preferably 20% or more. However, it is generally preferable that the components having a low boiling water shrinkage and the components having a high boiling water shrinkage are composed in a ratio of about 30:70 to 60:40, and the shape thereof is side-by-side or a core-sheath structure. Examples include eccentric ones.

Next, the false-twisted yarn used for the mixed fiber yarn may be a high-count false-twisted yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less, which is a false-twisted yarn processed under general conditions. For example, in the case of a 75 denier filament, the twist number is 3100 to 3700T.
/ M, 3900 for a 50 denier filament
It is preferable to use the one processed at ~ 4500 T / M, and when the false-twisted yarn of 1 heater is used, the expansion and recovery ratio is 35 to 50%, the crimp is strong, and the surface of the woven fabric may be disturbed. It is preferred to use false twisted yarns for the heater. As mentioned above, it is essential that the single yarn denier is not more than 1.5 denier, but if it exceeds 1.5 denier, the soft texture of the surface layer will be deteriorated and the product having the desired texture will be obtained. Is not obtained. For polyester fibers and the like, if the single yarn fineness is 0.5 denier or less, the strength decreases and it becomes unsuitable for external clothing applications.
Generally, it is preferable to use one having a range of 1.5 to 0.5 denier.

The mixed yarn used in the present invention can be obtained by various methods using the above-described composite yarn and false twisted yarn. Generally, a low shrinkage filament is used as the false twisted yarn and The composite yarn is interlaced,
It is preferable that the fibers are entangled with each other to form a mixed yarn.

The woven fabric of the present invention is woven using such a mixed fiber as the warp, but the same mixed fiber can be used as the weft. However, as the weft, it is preferable to use a yarn having a fineness larger than that of the warp, and particularly,
It is preferable to use a strongly twisted yarn having a twist coefficient of 5000 to 30000. When the twist coefficient is 5000 or less, the tightness of the yarn is eliminated and the cloth has a damp texture, and the desired drape property cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient exceeds 30,000, the texture becomes hard and the object is also obtained. Drapability cannot be obtained.

As such a strongly twisted yarn, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No.
As described in JP-A-9-24212, one having a two-layer structure in which a drawn yarn and an undrawn yarn are false twisted at the same time to arrange the drawn yarn in the core portion and the undrawn yarn in the sheath portion, or JP-B-58. -12
As described in Japanese Patent No. 940, a non-stretched yarn and a semi-stretched yarn are simultaneously drawn and false-twisted to form a two-layer structure as described above.
When a composite false-twisted yarn having a two-layer structure is twisted, the yarn of the core portion is not strongly twisted but the bulkiness remains, even if the yarn of the core portion is strongly twisted. Further, when a false-twisted yarn of thick thin yarn is used as the weft yarn, a dry-touch woven fabric having a tight feeling due to a thick portion having low orientation can be obtained. As such a thin yarn,
For example, as described in JP-A No. 63-256733, there may be mentioned those obtained by cold-drawing and false-twisting an undrawn yarn after allowing it to relax.

The woven fabric of the present invention uses yarns as warps and wefts as described above, but more importantly, in the case of the present invention, the fine fineness false twisted yarn is located in the surface layer portion. A special mixed yarn is placed on the surface of the fabric as much as possible. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the woven structure is configured such that the ratio of the ups and downs of the warp composed of the mixed fiber is 2: 1 or more, preferably 3: 1 or more, more preferably 4: 1 or more. .. Examples of such a structure include a twill weave, a satin weave, and a combination of these. However, if the floating number of the warp threads exceeds 7: 1, the warp threads may float and form a loop or fluff, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, the fineness of the weft (total fineness)
As described above, it is preferable to make it larger than the warp, but the fineness is 2.5 to 5.0 times the total fineness of the warp, specifically, the total fineness of about 100 to 400 denier. It is preferable that When a strong twist yarn is used as the weft yarn, the strong twist causes the weft yarn to be highly bundled into a circular shape, while the warp yarn is a simple mixed yarn, that is, untwisted or sweet twisted, and thus has a low convergence and is easily loosened. Therefore, by increasing the fineness of the weft as described above, even if the warp does not float,
The distance between the adjacent crossing points of the warp and weft becomes long, so that the warp bends greatly around the circular weft and at the same time the loose warp single yarn floats up in a loop and diffuses on the fabric surface. It is possible to obtain a product with a good texture.

Further, in the present invention, in order to obtain a soft feeling and drapability, when polyester fiber is used, it is preferable to reduce the amount of alkali by about 10 to 30%. It is needless to say that the woven fabric of the present invention may be subjected to various processes such as dyeing, raising, softening, antistatic and water repellent.

In order to obtain the cashmere-like woven fabric of the present invention, it is necessary to heat-treat the fabric after weaving to shrink the heat-shrinkable yarn of the mixed yarn, that is, the composite yarn. In the previous relaxing step, it is preferable to directly immerse the fabric in hot water of high temperature (90 ° C. or higher).

[0015]

[Example] The following three types of yarns A to C were prepared, and A, B and A were prepared.
And C are mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 respectively, and mixed yarns W1 and W
Got 2. A. False twisted yarn obtained by false twisting a normal polyester filament with a two heater method (boiling water shrinkage rate 3.5%)-75
d / 72f. B. Polyester terephthalate (Shrinkage rate of boiling water 5-7
%) And a high-shrinkage polyester of isophthalic acid copolymer (boiling water shrinkage of 30 to 40%): 1: 1 side-by-side composite yarn-50d / 12f. C. Multifilament yarn made of isophthalic acid copolymer high shrinkage polyester (boiling water shrinkage 30-40%)-5
0d / 12f.

Table 1 shows the physical properties of the raw yarns B and C and the physical properties of the mixed yarns W1 and W2. However, the measuring method of each data is as follows. 1. Boiled water shrinkage: Take a cassette with a cassette remover 5 times, immerse it in hot water at 95 to 100 ° C. for 1 minute under a load of 0.001 g / d, shrink it, and dry it to recover the original length. L ₁ and the length after contraction are L ₂ , [(L ₁ −L ₂ ) / L ₁ ] × 1
It was calculated as 00 (%). 2. Denier: Determined by the JIS-L-1090 method. 3. Strength / elongation / stretch recovery rate: Determined by the JIS-L-1090 method. Table 1 yarn combined filament yarn B C W1 W2 denier 49.0 48.8 134.2 133.8 strength 4.27 4.56 3.7 4.0 Elongation 35.2 29.0 27.6 30.3 boiling water shrinkage 34.3 35.6 27.8 29.9 stretch recovery ratio - - 13.3 4.2 Torque - - 37 16 entangled - - 157 152 OPU (oil and fat) − − 1.06 1.50

The mixed yarns W1 and W2 thus obtained were used as warp yarns respectively, and the composite false twisted yarn "Belle Ivy (5uw) -125d / 60f" manufactured by Kanebo Co., Ltd. was used as the weft yarns. Five pieces of satin fabric (length 32m, width 137
cm, warp density 161 yarns / inch, weft yarn density 68 yarns / inch). Such a woven fabric was subjected to a relaxation treatment (120 ° C. × 20 minutes) with a jet dyeing machine, non-tension drying (170 ° C. × 60 seconds) with a shrink surfer, and then a preset (190 ° C.) with a slight overfeed so as not to be pulled. ℃ × 30 seconds), then the steam method at 105 ℃ continuously reduce the weight by 15%, and use a conventional jet dyeing machine to 130
After dyeing at ℃ × 30 minutes, relax dry (170 ℃ × 60
Second) and processing according to the preset (170 ° C x 30 seconds)
Finished with.

The product thus obtained has a length of 25 m,
Width 124 cm, warp density 177 threads / inch, weft density 85
At the number of books / inch, a woven fabric was obtained in which the warp was exposed on the surface. Table 2 shows the comparison of the texture of each product. Table 2 Product 1 (using W1) Product 2 (using W2) Shrinkage Relatively weak Strength Thickness Small Large Hardness Flexible (with falling feeling and drapeability) Hard Raised appearance Uniform uniform muscle-like surface touch Good Poor According to the present invention The product 1 using the mixed fiber W1 including the special composite yarn is a cashmere with a drape property that has a natural appearance and has a natural appearance in which the entire surface is uniformly covered with a fine fineness crimped yarn. It became a textured fabric. On the contrary,
Mixed yarn W simply containing highly shrinkable polyester filaments
The product 2 using No. 2 had a poor texture because the texture appeared streaky on the surface and lacked drapeability. It is considered that this is because the composite yarn of the present invention shrinks three-dimensionally, whereas the shrinkable yarn of the comparative example shrinks linearly.

[0019]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, inexpensive synthetic fibers can be used to obtain a high-quality woven fabric with a cashmere tone, which has a very good texture.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location D03D 15/04 B 7199-3B A 7199-3B D06C 23/04 A 7199-3B

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A heat shrinkable yarn having a single yarn denier of 2 to 6 and a high count false twist yarn having a single yarn denier of 1.5 or less are from 50:50.
A 30:70 mixed yarn is used as at least the warp yarn, and is woven so that the ratio of the floating number and the sinking number of the warp yarn is 2: 1 or more, and then the heat shrinkable yarn is heat shrunk. As a heat shrinkable yarn, a cashmere-like woven fabric comprising a composite yarn in which two components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more are eccentrically combined. 2. A composite yarn of single yarn denier 2 to 6 in which two kinds of components having a difference in boiling water shrinkage of 15% or more are eccentrically combined, and a high count temporary yarn denier of 1.5 or less. A mixed yarn of 50:50 to 30:70 of twisted yarn is used as at least the warp yarn, and is woven so that the ratio of the floating number and the sinking number of the warp is 2: 1 or more. A method for producing a cashmere-like woven fabric, which comprises immersing in hot water at a temperature of ℃ or higher.