JPH1112824A - Lining fabric using polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a lining fabric exhibiting good lining fabric functions such as tensile strength, abrasion strength, flexural strength, and dimensional stability against washing, and excellent seam allowance-forming performance, creasing performance, and performance for recovering wrinkles generated on practical wearing by using polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers as warps, etc. SOLUTION: A lining fabric whose warps and/or wefts comprise polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns containing trimethylene terephthalate units in an amount of >=50 mol.%, preferably >=70 mol.%, especially >=90 mol.% is provided. The polytrimethylene terephthalate yarns each has a total denier of 30-120 d and a single fiber denier of 0.5-10 d.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a backing made of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a lining made of 100% polyethylene terephthalate fiber is made of 100% regenerated cellulose fiber.
A typical material for clothing linings because it is less expensive than linings made of, has higher strength against pulling, bending, and abrasion, has excellent dimensional stability due to washing, and has little change in appearance. As popular. But,
A lining made of 100% polyethylene terephthalate fiber is inferior to a lining made of 100% regenerated cellulose fiber in sewing allowance and crease performance at the time of sewing, and thus is rarely used as a lining for high-grade men's and women's clothing.

[0003] Sewing allowance and crease performance of the lining are important factors affecting the beauty of the silhouette of the finished garment. For example, if the seam allowance does not break cleanly or if the crease is not properly formed, the seam allowance and crease part will be raised, not only will the appearance of the back side of the clothes deteriorate, but also the flexibility and drape property inherent in the outer material It hinders the overall silhouette of the garment.

[0004] The sewing margin and the crease are as follows. Seam allowance: After sewing two linings together, iron the seam allowance and split the seam, or bend the two linings along the seam. With folds: Iron the kinked part of the lining and fold it so that the kinked part does not come loose. For example, emphasis is placed on the cuffs and the hem of the upper garment.

One of the functions of the lining is to prevent the occurrence of wrinkles on the outer material. From 100% of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, the lining is made of regenerated cellulose fiber 100%.
%, When clothes are actually worn, wrinkles are less likely to occur, but strong wrinkles are once formed (thin flat linings have sharp wrinkles as compared to outer materials). It has a drawback that it does not disappear simply by hanging it on a cloth or the like, and particularly when a large wrinkle is formed, the silhouette of the clothes is obstructed.

On the other hand, a lining made of 100% regenerated cellulose fiber is not only excellent in seam allowance and crease performance but also excellent in moisture absorption, so that it has no stuffy feeling when worn and has excellent antistatic properties. Because the texture is flexible and familiar with the outer material, and also excellent in sliding performance with underwear,
Although expensive, it is used as a lining for luxury men's and women's clothing.

[0007] Therefore, the disadvantages of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (sewing margin, creasing and difficulty in eliminating wrinkles firmly attached) are improved, and the advantages of regenerated cellulose fiber (hygroscopicity, flexibility, slipperiness, etc.) are combined. For the purpose, linings interwoven with these fibers have been commercialized, but although the above-mentioned drawbacks of polyethylene terephthalate fibers are reduced, the properties of polyethylene terephthalate fibers used for warp or weft are fully expressed, and thus are satisfactory. Is currently not available.

[0008]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a backing made of polyethylene terephthalate fiber, that is, it has a backing function such as strength against pulling, abrasion, flexural strength and the like, and dimensional stability due to washing. It is an object of the present invention to provide a backing made of 100% polyester fiber and a cross-woven backing made of polyester fiber and cellulosic fiber, which can significantly improve the seam allowance and creaseability and the recovery of firm wrinkles.

[0009]

As a result of various studies on the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have found that the use of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as the warp and / or weft constituting the backing allows the above-described seam allowance and fold to be formed. The present inventors have found that it is possible to remarkably improve the adhesive property and the recovery property of firmly attached wrinkles, and have completed the present invention. That is, the present invention provides a lining characterized in that the warp and / or the weft are composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention refers to a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and the trimethylene terephthalate unit is at least about 50 mol%, preferably at least 70 mol%,
More preferably 80 mol% or more, particularly preferably 90 mol% or more.
A fiber contained in a range of at least mol%. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is within a range of about 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, and particularly preferably 10 mol% or less. And polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers.

Polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under appropriate reaction conditions. In this synthesis process, an appropriate one or two or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or
Polyester or nylon other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate or the like and polytrimethylene terephthalate may be separately synthesized and then blended or composite-spun (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.).

The third components to be added include aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (oxalic acid, adipic acid, etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid, etc.), and aromatic dicarboxylic acids (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.). ), Aliphatic glycols (ethylene glycol, 1,2
Propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexanediol, etc.), aromatic dioxy compounds (hydroquinone, bisphenol A, etc.), aromatic glycols containing aromatics (1,
4-bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycol (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acid (ω-oxycaproic acid, etc.), aromatic oxycarboxylic acid (P-oxybenzoic acid) Etc.). Compounds having one or more ester-forming functional groups (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

Further, matting agents such as titanium dioxide, stabilizers such as phosphoric acid, ultraviolet absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, and antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives. An oxidizing agent, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent brightener, an infrared absorber, an antifoaming agent, and the like may be contained. In the present invention, the spinning of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is 1500
After spinning at a winding speed of about m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn,
Either a method of twisting at a rate of about 2 to 3.5 times, a direct drawing method in which a spinning-drawing step is directly connected, or a high-speed spinning method (spin draw or spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more is adopted. You may.

The form of the fibers may be long fibers or short fibers, but the backing is preferably a multifilament. The thickness and cross-sectional shape of the fiber are not particularly limited, and may be uniform or thin in the length direction, and may be round, triangular, L-shaped, or T-shaped even in cross section.
It may be a polygonal type such as a type, a Y type, a W type, an eight leaf type, a flat shape, a dog bone type or the like, a multi leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type.

The fiber generally used as a backing has a total denier of 30 to 120 d, preferably 50 to 1 d.
00d, and 0.5 to 10 for single yarn denier.
d, preferably in the range of 1 to 5d. Further, as the form of the yarn, fluid jet processing such as multifilament raw yarn (including ultrafine yarn), sweet twisted yarn to strong twisted yarn, mixed fiber yarn, false twisted yarn (including drawn false twisted yarn of POY), and so-called Taslan processed yarn There are threads.

The lining in which the warp and / or the weft are composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is preferably the following, but may be a mixture of polyethylene terephthalate fiber and the like as desired. Case 1: Both the warp and the weft use polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. Case 2: Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used for the warp, and regenerated cellulose fiber such as cuprammonium rayon, viscose rayon, and polynosic rayon is used for the weft. Case 3: A case in which regenerated cellulose fibers such as cuprammonium rayon, viscose rayon, and polynosic rayon are used for the warp and polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers are used for the weft.

In case 1, a lining is obtained that is inexpensive, has high strength, is excellent in dimensional stability by washing, and has excellent seam splitting / folding performance and strong wrinkle recovery. In this case, for the purpose of improving the antistatic properties, for example, an antistatic thread containing polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component in the warp or latitude and containing an antistatic agent may be used. In cases 2 and 3, the hygroscopicity due to the characteristics of the cellulose fiber
A lining having both flexibility and slipperiness, strength based on the characteristics of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and dimensional stability upon washing, and a lining excellent in seam allowance and crease performance and strong wrinkle recovery. The total denier and single yarn denier of the cellulose fibers in Cases 2 and 3 are not particularly limited. However, since the mixing ratio of the cellulose fibers is about 50%, the mixture is placed in a low humidity environment (20 ° C. × 2).
In order to keep the antistatic property at 0% RH), a yarn containing an antistatic agent can be used as the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used for the warp or the weft. In the cases 2 and 3, the warp or the weft may use 100% of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or regenerated cellulose. Alternatively, for example, one to three fibers may be alternately used.

The fabric structure of the lining of the present invention is not particularly limited, but may be a flat structure, a twill structure, a satin structure, etc., but a flat structure is preferred. As the density of the warp and the weft of the woven fabric, the warp density is 100 to 180 yarns / inch when the warp fineness is 50 to 100 denier, and the weft density is 60 to 130 yarns / inch when the weft fineness is 50 to 120 denier. The range can be set according to the above-described case 1 to 3 of the yarn combination, the type of clothing to be used, or the use of a gentleman or a woman. The type of the loom to be used is not particularly limited, but from the viewpoint of the quality stability of the woven fabric and the production cost, the water jet loom for the cases 1 and 2 and the air jet loom for the case 3 preferable.

The method for dyeing and finishing the lining of the present invention is not particularly limited.
This is not different from the usual method of processing a lining using polyethylene terephthalate fiber, and is a general manufacturing process, a process of scouring, desizing, dyeing and finishing.
In this case, after scouring desizing for the purpose of softening the texture, alkali weight reduction processing may be performed. In cases 2 and 3,
It is also possible to dye the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber after scouring and then dye the cellulose fiber, or to dye the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and the cellulose fiber in the same bath. At the time of finishing after dyeing, it is possible to achieve the object of the present invention without using resin processing together.However, resin processing is used together with cellulose fiber for the purpose of further improving dimensional stability by washing. May be implemented.

[0020]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In addition, the performance evaluation was performed by the following method. (1) Seam splitting and creasing test method;
Two samples of 0 cm are taken and sewn along the warp in the same direction in the inside and outside with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm. Divide the seam allowance of the sample after sewing by the following ironing conditions. Subsequently, a fold is made in the weft direction at a folding margin of 5 cm under the following ironing conditions.

Iron model = Drip type steam iron (manufactured by Naomoto Industry Co., Ltd.) Surface temperature = 140 ° C. Ironing time = 4 seconds / 20 cm Iron pressure = Iron weight (16 g / cm ² ) Followed immediately after the ironing. The criteria are shown in Table 1 below.

[0022]

[Table 1] The pass was grade 3 or higher. However, if grade 4 or higher, the silhouette of the outer material is not disturbed.

(2) Evaluation of Wrinkle Occurrence and Recovery Wrinkle recovery by actual wearing: A tight skirt of size 9 was prepared by attaching various types of linings to a woven fabric made of 100% surface wool, and the wrinkles when actually worn were prepared. The occurrence / recovery status was visually judged. The condition of wrinkles was evaluated according to the following criteria. Grade 1: Both fine wrinkles and large wrinkles are extremely bad. 2: There are sharp wrinkles. 3: Some large wrinkles and small wrinkles are noticeable. 4: There are almost no large wrinkles, and small wrinkles are slightly conspicuous. 5: Inconspicuous fine wrinkles remain but good.

The test yarn of the used polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber was produced as follows. ηsp / c =
0.8 of polytrimethylene terephthalate at a spinning temperature of 2
It is spun at 65 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn, and then stretched at a hot roll temperature of 60 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 140 ° C., a draw ratio of 3 and a draw speed of 800 m / min to obtain a 50 d / y 36f and 75d / 36f drawn yarn were obtained. Strength and elongation, elastic modulus and 10
% Elastic recovery at elongation is 3.2 g / d, 46%, respectively.
30 g / d and 98%.

The elastic recovery at 10% elongation was as follows: the sample was subjected to an initial load of 0.01 g / d, and was stretched at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute to reach an elongation of 10%. By the way, on the contrary, it contracts at the same speed, and draws a stress-strain curve.
Assuming that the residual elongation when the stress is reduced to 0.01 g / d, which is equal to the initial load, during contraction is L, it is a value calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation = [(10−L) / 10] ×
100 (%)

Example 1 A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 98 yarns / inch × weft density of 80 yarns / inch was prepared by using the test yarn 1 shown in Table 2 as a warp and the test yarn 2 as a weft. As a sample,
Using a continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3, scouring, washing, neutralization, and drying were performed. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 4, finishing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 5 to obtain a product. (Example 2) The test yarn 1 shown in Table 2 was used as the warp, and the test yarn 4 was used.
Was used as the weft to prepare a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 128 yarns / inch × weft density of 85 yarns / inch, and using the woven fabric as a sample, using a continuous scouring machine under the conditions shown in Table 3, scouring, washing, and neutralizing And drying. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 6, finishing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 7 to obtain a product.

Example 3 A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 131 yarns / inch × weft density of 80 yarns / inch was prepared using the test yarn 3 shown in Table 1 as a warp and the test yarn 2 as a weft. Using a continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 2, scouring, washing, neutralization, and drying were carried out. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions described in Table 5, finishing was performed under the conditions described in Table 7 to obtain a product. (Example 4) The test yarn 1 shown in Table 2 was used as the warp, and the test yarn 5 was used.
Was used as a weft to prepare a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 128 / inch × weft density of 85 / inch, and using the woven fabric as a sample, using a continuous scouring machine under the conditions described in Table 3, scouring, washing, neutralization, Drying was performed. Subsequently, after dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 6, finishing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 7 to obtain a product.

(Comparative Example 1) Polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo) 50d / 36f for the warp and polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo) 75d for the weft
/ 36f was used for scouring, washing, neutralizing, drying, dyeing and finishing under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a comparative example. 1 product. Comparative Example 2 A plain woven fabric having a warp density of 128 yarns / inch × a weft density of 85 yarns / inch using a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (produced by Asahi Kasei Kogyo) 50d / 36f for the warp and the test yarn 4 shown in Table 2 for the weft was used as a sample. Scouring under the same conditions as in Example 2,
The product was washed, neutralized, dried, dyed, and finished to obtain a product of Comparative Example 2.

(Comparative Example 3) A test yarn 3 shown in Table 2 was used as a warp, and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo) 75d / 36f was used as a weft. 131 warp density / × 80 weft density / inch flatness Using the woven fabric as a sample, scouring, washing, neutralization, drying, dyeing, and finishing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 2 to obtain a product of Comparative Example 3. Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1
Table 8 summarizes the measurement results of the seam allowance performance, the crease performance, the wrinkles actually worn, and the recoverability of the products obtained in Nos. 1 to 3.
As is clear from Table 8, the lining of the present invention is made of a 100% polyester lining which does not impair the silhouette of the outer material, which is excellent in seam splitting performance, crease performance, wrinkle wear and recovery, and a cross-woven lining of polyester fiber and cellulose fiber. Can be obtained.

[0030]

[Table 2]

[0031]

[Table 3]

[0032]

[Table 4]

[0033]

[Table 5]

[0034]

[Table 6]

[0035]

[Table 7]

[0036]

[Table 8]

[0037]

As described in detail above, the lining of the present invention is:
Polyester 1 that excels in seam allowance performance, crease performance, wrinkles and recovery properties in actual use, and does not disturb the silhouette of the outer material
A 00% backing and a cross-woven backing of polyester fibers and cellulose fibers can be obtained.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A lining characterized in that the warp and / or the weft are composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers.