JPH11140738A - Spun-like yarn having excellent elastic recoverability - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a spun-like yarn not having a waxy touch, having excellent elastic recoverability, bulkiness and soft touch and suitable for sportsweareise and the like by controlling the difference between the dry heat shrinkage percentage of a core yarn and the dry heat shrinkage percentage of a sheath yarn within a prescribed range. SOLUTION: This spun-like yarn comprises a fluid-treated bulky yarn obtained by blending and interlacing a filament yarn (core yarn) constituting a core portion with a filament yarn (sheath yarn) constituting a sheath portion. The sheath yarn comprises a filament yarn having a dry heat shrinkage percentage (SHD) of <=0% at 160 deg.C and a single filament fineness of <=5 denier. The core yarn comprises a polyester elastic yarn, such as polypropylene terephthalate yarn or polybutylene terephthalate yarn, having a dry heat SHD of <=30% at 160 deg.C and a single filament fineness of <=10 denier. The difference (ΔSHD) between both the dry heat shrinkage percentages of the core and sheath yarns at 160 deg.C is expressed by the inequality: 5%<=ΔSHD<=30%. Therein, ΔSHD expresses the dry heat shrinkage percent difference (%) of both the core and sheath yarns at 160 deg.C. The length difference (ΔL) between the core and sheath yarns is preferably expressed by the inequality: 2%<=ΔL<=15%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a spun-like yarn made of polyester fiber, which is processed into a woven or knitted fabric, and then subjected to ordinary dyeing and finishing, thereby exhibiting self-elongation, resulting in a light feeling. With excellent swelling and excellent stretch recovery,
It is a woven or knitted fabric having a new spun-like texture.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, a large number of woven or knitted fabrics using polyester fibers, particularly woven or knitted fabrics using different shrinkage mixed fibers, have been put on the market in the fields of women's thin to medium and thick fabrics. These products use the difference in heat shrinkage to give a swelling and softness to the woven or knitted fabric. Has been realized. On the other hand, false twisting technology has been developed with the aim of imitating the crimped structure of wool, and with the aim of expressing the bulge on the next level, a core-sheath structure with the same element technology as silky texture expression, A so-called new worsted texture has been realized. However, in these disclosed methods, the texture, the dyeing property, and the like are monotonous, and the change is poor, and it is easy to win. A number of mixed-fiber woven / knitted fabrics combining a self-expanding yarn and a heat-shrinkable yarn disclosed in JP-A-2-93410 and JP-A-5-331705 have been proposed,
Has been launched. However, although the disclosed techniques provide a rich and soft feeling, the polyester has a slimy feel as a touch, which is not preferable. In addition, these fabrics lack stretchability and stretchability recovery properties, and due to this, there are also sewing problems such as difficulty in sewing and a lack of tailoring.

[0003]

The present invention relates to a spun-like yarn having excellent elasticity recovery properties, and more particularly, to a loop-shaped bulge formed by fluid entanglement and a wet heat treatment and a dry heat treatment during dyeing. It exhibits self-elongation and newly develops fine crimps, which does not cause the sliminess peculiar to polyester woven and knitted fabrics. An object of the present invention is to provide a spun-like yarn that can be processed into a new textured woven or knitted fabric having excellent elastic recovery properties by elastic fibers.

[0004]

Means for solving the above problem, ie, the present invention, has the following constitution. Fluid-treated bulky yarn in which the filament yarn (core yarn) constituting the core and the filament yarn (sheath yarn) constituting the sheath are mixed and entangled with each other, and the sheath yarn undergoes heat shrinkage at a dry heat of 160 ° C. Rate (SHD) 0%
Hereinafter, the core fiber is made of a polyester fiber having a denier of 5 denier or less, and the core yarn is made of a polyester elastic fiber having a heat shrinkage (SHD) of 30% or less at a dry heat of 160 ° C. and a denier of 10 denier or less. A spun-like yarn excellent in elastic recovery, characterized in that the difference in shrinkage ratio (率 SHD) between the core yarn and the sheath yarn at a dry heat of 160 ° C. is 5% ≦ △ SHD ≦ 30%, SHD
Indicates the difference in shrinkage (%) between the core yarn and the sheath yarn at a dry heat of 160 ° C. 3. The spun-like yarn having excellent elastic recovery properties according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based elastic fiber is polypropylene terephthalate fiber, and the excellent elastic recovery property according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based elastic fiber is polybutylene terephthalate fiber. Thread length difference between spun-like yarn, core yarn and sheath yarn
2. The spun-like yarn excellent in stretch recovery properties according to claim 1, wherein (ΔL) is 2% ≦ ΔL ≦ 15%.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In order to obtain a sheath yarn of a spun-like yarn excellent in stretch recovery properties of the present invention, an intrinsic viscosity [η] containing at least 85 mol% of an ethylene terephthalate unit as a polymer is 0.45 to 0.7 cc / cm. g of polyester,
A polyester fiber is obtained by a melt spinning method, but terephthalic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, 1,4-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid,
An ester-forming derivative comprising a combination of an aromatic dicarboxylic acid component such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and a glycol component such as ethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, and neopentyl glycol is used in combination. It may be contained as a polymerization component. Also, if necessary, inorganic fine particles and pigments such as titanium dioxide, barium sulfate, kaolinite, and silicon dioxide,
Polyester mixed with other additives may be used.

The polyester to be used must have an intrinsic viscosity [η] containing at least 85 mol% of ethylene terephthalate units of 0.45 to 0.7 cc / g. In addition to deteriorating spinnability in spinning, the fabric is subjected to an alkaline hydrolysis action selectively due to the reduction in alkali when processed into fabric, and the degree of embrittlement is remarkable, so that fabric or fabric can withstand practical use It cannot be strong.

Further, the core yarn of the present invention needs to be a polyester elastic yarn. Preferably, polypropylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate are suitable. The polypropylene terephthalate in the present invention, terephthalic acid as the main dicarboxylic acid component,
A polyester having trimethylene glycol as a main glycol component, and having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit, and glycols such as ethylene glycol and butanediol, isophthalic acid, 2, 6 as long as their properties are not impaired. -Naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or the like may be copolymerized usually in an amount of 10 mol% or less. Further, the polybutylene terephthalate in the present invention is a polyester having terephthalic acid as a main acid component and tetramethylene glycol as a main glycol component, and having a tetramethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. Glycols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, isophthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and the like may be copolymerized in an amount of usually not more than 10 mol% as long as the amount is not impaired. In addition, the polypropylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate described in the present invention are polypropylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, as long as the physical properties thereof are not impaired, and may include a modifier such as an ultraviolet absorber, an antioxidant, and a flame retardant. good. By using these polyester-based elastic fibers for the core yarn, the stretch recovery property can be ensured. In particular, polypropylene terephthalate is suitable because it has characteristics such as excellent stretch recovery at the time of recovery of elongation of about 10% to 20%. In addition, the fact that normal pressure dyeing is possible enables a combination with various copolymerized polyesters.

[0008] Fluid treatment is also required in the present invention. By this treatment, the core yarn and the sheath yarn are entangled. that time,
A bulge due to a difference in yarn length (△ L) with respect to the core yarn of the sheath yarn, and a bulge due to fine crimping due to a difference in yarn length caused by spontaneous elongation due to dry heat treatment or wet heat treatment such as a dyeing process. Generate. The composite bulge of the lair characterizes the fabric feel made from the yarns of the present invention. In order to generate the fine crimp, the difference in the shrinkage ratio (△ SHD) of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn is important. Like texture can be created. At this time, the difference in shrinkage ratio (△ SHD) of the sheath yarn with respect to the core yarn is preferably 5% ≦ △ SHD ≦ 30%. △ SH
When D is less than 5%, micro-crimping caused by spontaneous elongation is insufficient, and when ΔSHD is more than 30%, overshoot occurs, which is not preferable. ΔL is 2% ≦ ΔL
≤15% is good. When ΔL is 2% or less, a substantial difference in yarn length does not occur due to the elasticity of the polyester elastic fiber of the core yarn.

Within the scope of the present invention, a cloth having a novel characteristic texture by a composite micro-crimp effect obtained by adding the crimp of the fiber itself to the conventional micro-crimp caused by spontaneous elongation, and A cloth excellent in the light weight effect by the cross-sectional shape effect and the composite fine crimping effect is obtained.

[0010] The total denier of the spun-like yarn of the present invention which is excellent in elastic recovery is not particularly limited, but is generally in the range of 30 to 300 denier in consideration of general clothing use depending on its texture and use. It can be selected as appropriate. The composition ratio of the polyester fiber constituting the core portion and the polyester-based elastic fiber constituting the sheath portion is desirably 30/70 to 70/30, more preferably 40/60 to 60/40, as a weight ratio. Further, the preferred range of the single yarn denier of the polyester fiber constituting the core portion is 2 denier to 10 denier, and the preferred range of the single yarn denier of the polyester elastic fiber constituting the sheath portion is 0.3 denier to It is 5 denier. Of course, these are not limited at all, and appropriate combinations may be considered according to the feeling, the use, and the like. From the viewpoint of light weight, it is also effective to use a hollow cross-section fiber as the polyester fiber constituting the sheath. It is also effective to use fibers having an irregular cross-sectional shape from the viewpoint of texture.

In the method for producing the polyester fiber constituting the sheath portion of the present invention, spinning is performed using a polyester containing at least 85 mol% of ethylene terephthalate units. For example, a polyester undrawn yarn melt-spun at a spinning speed in the range of 2000 to 4000 m / min. Is drawn in a temperature range from the first transition temperature to the crystallization temperature of the undrawn yarn, and then the relaxation rate is 10 to 100%. A method of relaxing by dry heat is included. The dry heat relaxation heat treatment is preferably performed using a slit heater. By increasing the relaxation rate, the heat shrinkage ability is easily removed, which not only has an effect on improving the self-elongation rate, but also causes a variation in the degree of heat shrinkage removal between filaments. It becomes easy to develop crimpability.

The polyester-based elastic fiber, preferably polypropylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate fiber, constituting the core of the present invention is obtained by spinning polypropylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate as a starting material and selecting a condition which can be set normally. By stretching, it is excellent in elongation recovery,
In addition, it also has an appropriate bending rigidity, and it is possible to easily manufacture a filament suitable as a filament constituting the core of the yarn in the present invention.

Further, the spun-like yarn of the present invention, which is excellent in elastic recovery, is a combination of a spontaneously extensible polyester fiber and a polyester-based elastic fiber. A known air-entangled nozzle described above can be used. The pressure of the high-pressure air must be appropriately selected according to the running speed of the yarn to be treated, the type of air entangled nozzle, the total denier of the yarn, the number of filaments, etc., but it is generally used in the range of ^{2 to} 6 kg / cm ^2. Is desirable.

[0014] The spun-like yarn of the present invention, which has excellent stretch recovery properties, is used as it is, or after being twisted using a known twisting machine, woven and knitted into a fabric foil structure, and then subjected to ordinary dyeing. You. By the dry heat treatment and the wet heat treatment in this dyeing process, the polyester fiber that constitutes the sheath develops self-elongation, shows a new texture with a rich feeling and a soft feeling, and expands and contracts due to the contribution of the polyester fiber in the core. A resilient cloth can be made.

[0015]

The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples. Of course, the present invention is not limited to the following examples. In addition, each physical property value in the text and in the examples is based on the following measurement methods. (a) Relative viscosity The relative viscosity was measured at 30 ° C. using a mixed solvent of p-chlorophenol and tetrachloroethane at a ratio of 3: 1. The solution concentration is
0.4 g / dl. (b) 160c dry heat shrinkage SHD (%) A 1/30 (g / d) load is applied to the sample, and its length L3 (mm) is measured. Then, the load is removed, and the sample is placed in a dryer and dried at 160 ° C. for 30 minutes. Cool after drying, and again 1/30
(g / d) is applied and its length L4 (mm) is measured. the above
Substitute L3 and L4 into the following formula to obtain dry heat shrinkage SHD. still,
The average value of five measurements is used as the measured value. SHD (%) = (L3−L4) / L3 × 100 (c) Yarn difference ΔL (%) A load of 1/30 (g / d) was applied to each sample of the core yarn A and the sheath yarn B. The lengths LA and LB are measured, and the yarn length difference ΔL (%) is obtained by the following equation using the measured values. ΔL (%) = {(LB−LA) / LA} × 100

Example 1 Using a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin having a relative viscosity of 1.45 and winding at a spinning speed of 3,500 m / min. Using a conventional melt spinning method, undensed 80 denier 48 filaments were obtained. Using a slit heater (non-contact heating) at an ambient temperature of 210 ° C, the undrawn yarn was relaxed at a rate of 50%, and the processing speed was increased.
Relaxation heat treatment was performed at 250 m / min. The dry heat shrinkage SHD of the relaxed yarn was -5%, and the yarn substantially had self-elongation ability. On the other hand, a polypropylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.39 is once wound at a spinning speed of 1300 m / min by ordinary melt spinning, stretched 2.8 times, heat-set, and stretched at 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage SHD 15%.
75 denier 12 filaments were obtained. Using a fluid turbulent nozzle, the polyester undrawn yarn after the relaxation heat treatment and the polypropylene terephthalate drawn yarn are at room temperature at a supply speed at which the yarn length difference between the polyester undrawn yarn and the polypropylene terephthalate drawn yarn is 4%. To give a spun-like yarn. The treated yarn had sufficient entanglement and did not hinder handling.

The yarn was double-twister No. 31 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
After twisting at 0, the density of the greige machine is 119 strands / in, weft 83 strands / i
n. After refining and relaxing the woven fabric foil, use a liquid dyeing machine to reduce the weight.
After applying a 19% alkali weight reduction process, it is subsequently dyed with a disperse dye using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and a normal final set is performed.
A dyed cloth of in., 95 lines / in. was obtained. Observation of the surface state of the cloth with a scanning electron microscope revealed that a large number of fine loops formed by self-elongation of the relaxed heat-treated undrawn yarn were formed, and the surface of the cloth was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment. It was confirmed that the loop was almost covered by a relatively large loop due to the compound and a composite form of the loop due to self-extension. The cloth had a moderate swelling feeling (bulkness) and a soft feeling. Moreover, it was excellent in elongation recovery.
Table 1 shows characteristic values such as elongation recovery.

Example 2 Using a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin having a relative viscosity of 1.45, an undrawn yarn of 80 denier and 48 filaments was obtained by a usual melt spinning method at a spinning speed of 3500 m / min. The undrawn yarn was subjected to a relaxation heat treatment using a slit heater (non-contact heating) at an ambient temperature of 210 ° C. at a relaxation rate of 50% and a processing speed of 250 m / min. The dry heat shrinkage SHD of the relaxed yarn was -5%, and the yarn substantially had self-elongation ability. On the other hand, a polybutylene terephthalate having a relative viscosity of 1.56 is once wound at a spinning speed of 1300 m / min by ordinary melt spinning, stretched 2.6 times, heat set, and stretched at 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage SHD 12%. yarn
75 denier 12 filaments were obtained. The unstretched polyester yarn and the drawn polybutylene terephthalate yarn after the relaxation heat treatment were treated with a high-pressure air stream at room temperature under the same conditions as in Example 1 using a fluid turbulent nozzle to obtain a spun-like yarn. . The treated yarn had sufficient entanglement and did not hinder handling.

The yarn was used as a double twister No. 31 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
After twisting at 0, the density of the green machine is 119 yarns / in, weft 84 yarns / i
n. After refining and relaxing the woven fabric foil, use a liquid dyeing machine to reduce the weight.
After applying a 20% alkali weight reduction process, the product is dyed with a disperse dye using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and a normal final set is performed.
/ in., 96 dyes / in. Observation of the surface state of the cloth with a scanning electron microscope revealed that a large number of fine loops formed by self-elongation of the relaxed heat-treated undrawn yarn were formed, and the surface of the cloth was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment. It was confirmed that the loop was almost covered by the loop and the composite loop configuration of the loop. The cloth had a moderate swelling feeling (bulkness) and a soft feeling. Moreover, it was excellent in elongation recovery. Table 1 shows characteristic values such as elongation recovery.

Comparative Example 1 The polyester fiber described in Example 1 was used as a sheath yarn in the same manner as in Example 1, and the following polyester fiber was used as a core yarn. Using a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin with a relative viscosity of 1.45, wind it up at a spinning speed of 1100 m / min.
By drawing 7 times and heat setting, a drawn yarn of 75 denier 12 filaments was obtained. These two types of fibers were treated with the same fluid turbulence as in Example 1 and with a high-pressure airflow at room temperature under the same conditions as in Example 1 with the same yarn length difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn. To give a yarn. The entanglement of the treated yarn was sufficient and there was no problem in handleability.

The yarn was used as a double twister No. 31 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
After twisting at 0, the density of the greige is 122 threads / in, weft 85
Weaved into a twill structure of book / in. After refining and relaxing the woven fabric foil, it is subjected to a 20% alkali weight loss process using a liquid jet dyeing machine, followed by dyeing with a disperse dye using a liquid jet dyeing machine. Perform a normal final set, and finally finish density
A dyed cloth of 138 lines / in. And 97 lines / in. Was obtained. Observation of the surface state of the cloth with a scanning electron microscope revealed that the undrawn yarn subjected to the relaxation heat treatment exhibited self-elongation, formed a loop-like morphology, and had micro powder touch. Was lacking. Table 1 shows the characteristic values such as the stretch recovery property.

Comparative Example 2 Using the same polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin as in Example 1, the spinning speed was 3500 m by the ordinary melt spinning method.
/ min. to obtain a wound undrawn yarn of 80 denier and 48 filaments. Using a slit heater (non-contact heating) at an ambient temperature of 210 ° C., the undrawn yarn was relaxed at a rate of 0%, and the processing speed was 250 m / m.
In., a fixed-length heat treatment was performed. The dry heat shrinkage SHD of the fixed length treated yarn was 3.5%, and the yarn substantially showed heat shrinkability. Therefore, the yarn had no crimp and the yarn was not bulky. The unstretched yarn after the constant-length heat treatment and the polypropylene terephthalate stretched yarn of 75 denier 12 filaments of Example 1 were used in the same manner as in Example 1 by using a fluid turbulent nozzle to give a sense of swelling in the woven fabric. Then, under the condition that the yarn length difference between the sheath yarn and the sheath yarn is 13%, a treatment was performed with a high-pressure airflow at room temperature to obtain a yarn. Although the entanglement of the treated yarn was sufficient, the handleability was somewhat impaired due to the yarn loop.

The yarn was used as a double twister No. 31 manufactured by Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.
After twisting at 0, the density of the greige is 120 strands / in, weft 84
Weaved into a twill structure of book / in. After refining and relaxing the woven fabric foil, it is subjected to a 20% alkali weight loss process using a liquid jet dyeing machine, followed by dyeing with a disperse dye using a liquid jet dyeing machine. Perform a normal final set, and finally finish density
A dyed cloth with 133 lines / in. And weft 94 lines / in. Was obtained. When the surface state of the cloth was observed with a scanning electron microscope, the undrawn yarn subjected to the constant-length heat treatment did not self-elongate, and the cloth had elasticity recovery properties, but the so-called peach touch. Had a different softness and lack of beaminess.
Table 1 shows the stretch recovery characteristic values and the like.

[0024]

[Table 1] * 1 Indicates the recovery rate when the fiber constituting the core part is stretched by 10%. * 2, * 3 Evaluation result of woven fabric. As a measurement method, good was evaluated as good and bad was evaluated as poor by a sensory test. The evaluation was performed by 10 persons, and indicated by the highest rated scale.

[0025]

As described above, the spun-like yarn of the present invention, which has excellent elasticity and recovery properties, is woven and knitted as a fabric-laminated structure, and then subjected to ordinary dyeing.
When the micro-crimped lightweight polyester fiber self-elongates, the micro-crimp develops to form a large number of complex composite loops that are composited with bulges due to air entanglement due to the air entanglement treatment, and the loop becomes a multilayer. The cloth covers the surface of the structure and has a suitable, moderate swelling, softness, dryness and a feeling of swelling. In addition, the polyester elastic fiber constituting the core provides excellent elasticity recovery properties, and together with these properties, it is a material suitable for clothing for sports and the like.

Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification code FI D01F 6/62 306 D01F 6/62 306C D02G 1/18 D02G 1/18 3/04 3/04 3/22 3/22

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. Filament yarn (core yarn) constituting a core portion
And the filament yarn (sheath yarn) constituting the sheath portion is a fluid-treated bulky yarn in which the sheath yarn is mixed and entangled with each other.
Heat shrinkage at 0 ℃ (SHD) 0% or less, single fiber fineness is 5 deniers or less, made of polyester fiber, and core yarn is dry heat 160 ℃
Heat shrinkage (SHD) at 30% or less, polyester fiber having a single fiber fineness of 10 deniers or less, and a difference in shrinkage (△ SHD) between the core yarn and the sheath yarn at a dry heat of 160 ° C. is 5 % ≦ △ SHD ≦
30% spun-like yarn with excellent stretch recovery. (Where HDSHD is the dry heat of both the core yarn and the sheath yarn.
It shows the 60 ° C shrinkage difference (%). ) 2. The spun-like yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based elastic fiber is a polypropylene terephthalate fiber. 3. The spun-like yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based elastic fiber is a polybutylene terephthalate fiber. 4. The yarn length difference (△ L) between the core yarn and the sheath yarn is 2% ≦ △ L.
The spun-like yarn according to claim 1, wherein ≤ 15%.