JPH11279894A - Long / short composite fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Problem] It has water permeability as a comfortable function, and it has a soft touch and comfortableness due to water absorption and diffusion when wearing garment as clothing on relatively thin fabric, and at the same time, it is suitable for silhouette Provide a long-short composite structure woven fabric with tension, waist, rebound, and drape. Kind Code: A1 A woven fabric having a multi-layered structure in which a warp on the front side is made of a spun short fiber and a warp on the back side is a multifilament yarn twisted, and the back side has a point contact with a contact surface. It is a long-short composite structure woven fabric characterized by a simple structure, and the relationship of the arrangement of the warp on the front side and the warp on the back side is preferably 2: 1 to 12: 1.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven fabric excellent in water absorption / permeability and wearing comfort. The present invention relates to a woven fabric having a long-short composite structure which is suitable for wearable and comfortable clothing which has a water-permeable surface and is comfortable to the skin.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, polyester fibers are hardly wrinkled and have excellent pleating properties and dimensional stability.
Since it has many excellent properties such as drapability, tension, waist and rebound, it is used as the mainstream of synthetic fibers, especially in the field of women's clothing. Until now, new textures have been required for changes in fashion trends from the aspect of affluent lifestyles along with the rapid growth of the economy, and the development of new yarns for textiles has been carried out one after another and has become established in the market as a new synthetic fiber. did. In addition, opportunities for sports have expanded due to the increase in leisure time.
It is expanding to the so-called sports fashion worn to watch sports.

[0003] As a material used in sports clothing up to now, knits have been mainly used because stretchability is required for dosports. For fabrics having a water-permeability function as a comfort function, see No. 61-61.
A number of proposals have been made, such as Japanese Patent No. 27990 and Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 62-29496, most of which are related to the design of water absorption and water permeation functions by knitted fabrics, and are combined with the luxurious appearance such as the appearance and silhouette of the garment. It is not the original idea, but the fact that the materials that meet the current market requirements are not provided.

[0004] In knitting, it is difficult to obtain a drapeable fabric having tension, waist and resilience characteristics like a woven fabric from a fabric structure, and the style of a garment is mainly sporty. Not suitable for silhouettes.
Especially for golf, a sporty casual feeling is required, and traditional knits do not provide relatively thin fabrics with tightness, waist, rebound, so there is a strong demand for fabrics, silhouettes are sporty casual, As a wearing comfort function necessary for do sports, a material having both a sweat absorbing property and a quick drying property is required.

[0005] Further, it is clear that the society will shift to an aging society, lifestyles are changing from the past, and demands for health care are increasing in response to changes in the social environment. In particular, in the future, as a nursing care clothing, there is a strong demand for a medium-thin fabric that has various functions required for both the caregiver and the caregiver, and that can be further worn to obtain an elegant style. There is a tendency.

A design for obtaining water permeability, which is one of the wearing comfort functions, is proposed in, for example, the above-mentioned Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-27990. In this case, a non-hygroscopic fiber thread is used on the surface of the fabric. Basically, the difference in fineness gradient between the yarns constituting one surface and the other surface, that is, the fineness on the water-absorbing side is made large and the diffusion side is made thin. When a cloth is worn as a garment, the side in contact with the skin is strongly required to be soft, whereas in the case of a woven fabric, due to the weave structure, even the same fineness tends to be felt more firmly than a knit. Cannot use woven fabrics with large fineness. Therefore,
In order to obtain a soft touch and to obtain comfort when worn due to a water absorbing effect and a diffusion effect, further improvement of comfort is caused by stuffiness because there is no hygroscopicity when using 100% non-hygroscopic fiber. Discomfort may remain, and even if a hygroscopic fiber is used, it is necessary to improve the structure by absorbing and diffusing water so that the discomfort does not remain.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to have water permeability as a comfortable function, a soft touch when wearing a garment as clothing on relatively thin ground, and comfort due to water absorption / diffusion. At the same time, it is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric made of a long-short composite structure woven fabric having tension, waist, rebound, and drape suitable for a silhouette.

[0008]

The constitution of the long and short composite structure woven fabric of the present invention which achieves the above object is as follows.
That is, a woven fabric having a multi-layered structure in which the warp on the front side is made of a spun spun yarn and the warp on the back side is a multi-filament yarn formed by twisting, and the back side has a point contact with the contact surface. It is a woven fabric with a long and short composite structure. Preferably, the relationship between the warp on the front side and the warp on the back side is 2: 1 to 12: 1, and the garment is excellent in tension, waist, resilience and drapability on a woven fabric. Twisting coefficient α of multifilament yarn to give silhouette
Is a woven fabric using a yarn twisted at 1,000 to 18,000, and a multifilament yarn having a multi-leaf or irregular cross-sectional shape in order to further improve the water absorption, diffusion, and water permeability described above. Is a woven fabric. Further, it is preferable that the yarn constituting the surface of the woven fabric has a hygroscopic property, and that the weft of the woven fabric is a yarn having a multi-leaf or irregular cross-sectional shape.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Details of the long-short composite structure woven fabric of the present invention will be described.

In the present invention, a woven structure having a multi-layer structure such as a double woven structure is used in order to obtain a woven fabric having a water absorption / diffusion, a water permeation effect, a natural surface feeling and drapability, and a soft touch. As the double weave organization, a warp double weave organization, a weft double weave organization, and a warp / weft double weave organization are known. In order to give a water permeability effect to the woven fabric, it is possible to increase the water absorption performance in the same way as knit by increasing the difference in fineness gradient between the front and back by making it a double weave structure with weft and weft, but if the fineness on the back is large, the woven fabric will be The touch is hard and lacks in wearing comfort. From such a point, it has become possible to achieve the demand by repeatedly studying a fabric having a water absorption / diffusion effect as a feeling of wearing comfort and a soft touch. In the present invention, a double-woven structure is preferably used, but a triple-layer or more multilayer structure can be used as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

First, the yarn and the woven structure used in the long-short composite structure woven fabric of the present invention will be described. A spun short fiber yarn is used for the warp constituting the surface side of the woven fabric of the present invention, and a multifilament yarn and / or a short fiber spun yarn is used for the weft. In addition, a twisted multifilament yarn is used as the warp constituting the back side of the woven fabric.

Synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers and polyester fibers or natural fibers are used as varieties of spun yarns for the warp yarns on the front side, but the kind is not particularly limited. In addition, a hydrophobic fiber is used as the warp yarn constituting the back side, and a polyester fiber is particularly preferably used as a type of the multifilament yarn. The short fiber spun yarn and the multifilament yarn used for these warp yarns are arranged and manufactured. In this case, the warp yarns or the warp yarns constituting the front side are not arranged on the entire back surface (1: 1). It is preferable to arrange at an interval from the weft.
Preferably the front yarn: back yarn relationship is from 2: 1 to 12: 1, most preferably from 3: 1 to 6: 1. With this array,
When the back side of the fabric is used as the back side of the garment,
The organization point on the back side is configured as if a stepping stone was placed,
Point contact is made with the skin, which is the contact surface, so that water is easily absorbed and diffused, and the touch becomes softer.

Further, in the present invention, when a yarn containing moisture-absorbing (having hydrophilicity) fibers is used as the type of warp yarn on the surface side, even if the woven fabric is in a state of absorbing and diffusing due to sweating or the like,
Since the warp on the back side is in contact with the skin surface and the hygroscopic fiber of the warp on the front side does not directly contact the skin, there is no unpleasant feeling of wetness, conversely, before sweating, Until the fabric and the skin surface are in a high humidity state, that is, until sweat is released from the skin, the hydrophilic fibers adjust the humidity by the moisture release effect, so that there is an effect of contributing to a comfortable feeling.

Next, among the long and short composite structure woven fabrics of the present invention,
The following is an explanation of the elements necessary for designing a garment made of a sewn garment with excellent water absorption / diffusion performance and a silhouette suitable for sporty casual with a tension, waist, rebound, and drape property in a relatively medium-thin fabric.

In order to quickly absorb water from the back side of the woven fabric and to diffuse the absorbed water to the front side as quickly as possible, the fineness of the single fiber yarn fineness of the yarn constituting the front side in the multi-woven structure structure is small. The larger the single fiber fineness of the yarn constituting the back side, the better the so-called fineness gradient difference, the better. However, on the other hand, from the viewpoint of wearing comfort, a soft touch is required in addition to the water absorption. In a woven fabric, it is generally said that when the single fiber fineness is 3 dtex or more, the skin is usually felt to be hard. When the design is basically such that the ratio of the yarn constituting the back side is small as in the woven fabric,
The tightness of the woven fabric required for tailoring appearance is preferably required to have a single fiber fineness of 3 dtex or more. When the single fiber fineness is large, a yarn having a shape in which the arrangement of the single fibers is disturbed, such as false twisting or taslan processing, is useful. When the single fiber fineness is 3 dtex or less, a yarn having a high water-absorbing effect may be a modified or multi-lobed yarn having a high water-absorbing effect. As a yarn having an irregular or multi-leaf cross-sectional shape, there is a flat yarn having a cross section having 3 to 6 corners or leaves, or a yarn having a C, H, L, U, X-shaped cross section or the like. Any of those obtained by direct spinning or a method of forming an irregular cross section by reducing the amount of alkali in the dyeing step after composite spinning into a fabric may be used.

When short fiber spun yarns are used in combination with other yarns as in the woven fabric of the present invention, it is preferable to use modified cross-section yarns having a large water-absorbing effect. Furthermore, since the polyester itself is hydrophobic, the converged multifilament yarn is excellent in water absorption from the cross section of the fiber, as seen in the water absorption effect by the birec method, but from the side of the fiber. Poor water absorption. In order to enhance the water absorption effect from this side, in the dyeing process, a method of reducing the amount of alkali, and furthermore, a polyester multifilament yarn such as thick and thin, which has a yarn having a molecular height difference in the length direction of the yarn such as thick and thin It can also be used to reduce the alkali and cause cracks on the sides of the fibers.

Furthermore, the warp constituting the back side of the woven fabric is
A polyester multifilament yarn obtained by spinning a polymer containing ceramic particles represented by titanium oxide can be used. By using this multifilament yarn, when the woven fabric comes into contact with the skin surface, a cooling effect, that is, a contact cooling / heating effect can be obtained. The mixing ratio of ceramic particles such as titanium oxide is preferably 1
-7% by weight, more preferably 2-6% by weight.
When the amount of the ceramic particles is 1% by weight or less, the cooling effect is poor, and when the amount is 7% by weight or more, there is a problem in the spinnability of the raw yarn for clothing, which is not preferable. Further, by using the yarn containing the above ceramics on the front side of the woven fabric, a UV cut effect can be obtained, which is more preferable.

Further, in order to give an effect to the tailored silhouette, the multifilament yarn used for the warp is twisted. The level of the number of twisted yarns is as follows: number of twists: T (t / m), fineness of multifilament yarn: D (dtex), twisting coefficient:
When α is set, the twist coefficient α calculated by the following equation: α = T × D ^1/2 is preferably 1,000 to 1.
8,000, more preferably 2,000 to 1
5,000.

In order to enhance the quality with a sense of quality, the yarn type and the fabric structure constituting the surface are important. As described above, short yarn spun yarn is basically used as the yarn type. The short fiber spun yarn may be 100% of a hydrophobic fiber, or may be any of a blended yarn of a hydrophobic fiber and a water-absorbent fiber and a composite yarn. In particular, the former is suitable for applications requiring a water-repellent effect, and the latter composite yarn typified by polyester / cotton blend yarn is applied to applications requiring comfort due to moisture absorption, such as shirting and uniforms. it can.

The composition of the short fibers is preferably smaller as the single fiber fineness is smaller in order to increase the difference in the fineness gradient with the yarn constituting the back surface side. However, it is not suitable for the sporty casual feeling of the sewn product. There is a need. For example, even if the single fiber fineness is 1 dtex or less, the woven fabric structure can be free from pilling and other physical problems, and in some cases can be improved by increasing the number of twists of the spun yarn. Further, even when the difference in the fineness gradient from the back side becomes small, the effect of comfort can be covered by the point contact structure with the contact surface on the back side. Further, in the case of a spun yarn of a synthetic fiber, it is possible to widely cope with a change in demand by a structure variation due to a blending of raw cotton having different dyeing properties or an arrangement in a weaving process.

In the present invention, when the fabric structure on the front side has a lot of warp floats, by using a spun yarn having a modified cross section having a high water absorbing effect for the weft to be used, the water absorbed from the back side can be reduced. The diffusivity on the front side can be increased.

The long-short composite structure woven fabric of the present invention can be obtained by a general spun yarn weaving method using the above-mentioned yarns, with the arrangement of the warp yarns on the front side and the back side being in a fixed relationship. In the standard process for short fiber fabrics.

Further, by subjecting only the surface of the woven fabric to the water repellent treatment, a woven fabric having the effects of front and rear water absorption and back water absorption can be obtained.

The water absorption from the back side and the diffusion to the front side of the woven fabric were evaluated by the following methods.

(1) Backside dripping water absorption time: JIS L19
The water absorption rate by the dropping method in 07 "Test method for water absorption of textiles" is used.

(2) Front and back diffusion area ratio: As a sample, three 10 cm × 10 cm woven fabrics are collected. B. B. 0.1 cc ink stock solution (produced by Pilot) is dropped on the back of the fabric. After leaving for 3 minutes, copy the diffusion state of the dough surface and the back of the dough onto paper. E. Read the area of the copied paper with a digital planimeter (KP-90, manufactured by Uchida Yoko) and calculate the average value of the three sheets. From the front and back diffusion area obtained above, the front and back diffusion area ratio is calculated by the following equation.

Front / back diffusion area ratio = S1 / S2 S1: Front diffusion area value S2: Back diffusion area value The criteria for accepting the effect of the present invention is that the smaller the back surface drop water absorption time of (1), the higher the effect. 5 seconds or less, and the ratio of the front and back diffusion area in the above (2) is 2 times or more, and the way of ink application is point contact.

[0028]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.

(Example 1) As a yarn constituting a surface of a woven fabric, a staple 1.65 dtex, 38 mm by spinning and drawing of a polyester containing no titanium oxide was used as a warp yarn, and the number of twists was 20.2 T / 2.54 cm. 1 spun in
4.75 tex spun yarn was used. In addition, as a warp yarn constituting the back surface of the woven fabric, titanium oxide was used in an amount of 0.2%.
% Multi-filament false-twisted yarn (mixed fiber false-twisted composite yarn with round cross section and 6-leaf cross section, 165 dtex-
48fil) and 300 T / M twisted yarn was used.

The spun yarn was glued with a warping machine, and a whiverse beam was prepared in an arrangement of spun yarn 4: multifilament yarn 1 by beaming. This whiverse beam is set on a ZA type air jet loom made by Tsuda Koma, and staples of 2.75 dtex, 64 mm of 6-leaf irregular flat cross section made of polyester containing no titanium oxide are used as wefts, and the number of twists is 17.5T / 2.54. 1 spun in cm
The spun yarn of 9.7 tex count was driven.

The fabric structure is such that the front side is a 2/1 left-upward twill so as to obtain the high-grade feeling required of men's golf pants, and the back side is a spun yarn and a multifilament yarn alternately in a stone shape. And the weaving conditions were set so that the multifilament yarn did not come out. The density of the warp and weft of the greige machine is 160 yarns / 2.54 cm x 92 yarns / 2.54 cm
And the weaving width was 160 cm.

The woven machine thus woven was put into a dyeing finishing step and dyed and finished as follows. First, refining
In the relaxing step, the glue and oil agent of the spun yarn and the oil agent of the multi-filament yarn were removed in a bath at 40 to 98 ° C., and in the presetting step, tentative setting by dry heat was performed, followed by 5% alkali reduction. . After washing, plain dyeing was carried out with a disperse dye at 130 ° C. using a jet dyeing machine. The warp / weft density of the woven fabric after dyeing was 168 yarns / 2.54 cm × 96 yarns / 2.54 cm.

The water absorption time of the back surface of the woven fabric was 2 seconds or less, at which time the mirror surface state of the water droplet disappeared on the woven fabric surface by dropping the water droplet, and the water absorption speed was extremely excellent. Next, as a result of measuring the front and back diffusion area ratio, the back surface was 4.2 cm ² , and the front surface was 23 cm ² .
2cm ² , diffusion ratio between front and back is 5.5, which is excellent in diffusibility. Multifilament yarn constituting the back surface has no ink adhesion and diffuses and moves to warp and weft constituting the surface, so black and white stepping stone-like In actual wear, there was shown a state in which no moisture remained in the portion in contact with the skin side, indicating comfort. In addition, the surface of the woven fabric has a sense of unevenness of the warp spun yarn, shows a natural look, and has a drape property and tightness that can not be obtained with ordinary staple fiber woven fabric. It was a woven fabric. Table 1 shows the results.

Example 2, Comparative Example 1 A polymer ester multifilament false twisted yarn (165 dtex 48 filament) made of polyester in which 2.3% by weight of titanium oxide was added to the warp constituting the back surface of the woven fabric was added with 300 T
A woven fabric was produced under the conditions shown in Example 1 except that a multifilament yarn having a twist of / M was used. Also,
For comparison, the polyester staple 1.65 tex, 38 mm used in Example 1 was used at 100% and 38 mm in twist number 2.
A spun yarn having a count of 14.75 dtex spun at 0.2 T / 2.54 cm is used for both the warp and the weft to obtain a normal 2 spun yarn.
/ 1 twill. Next, the obtained fabric was dyed and finished in the same manner as in Example 1. These fabrics were evaluated for warmth and coldness to the skin, which contribute to water absorption / diffusion and wearing comfort, by measuring and evaluating the dry / wet contact thermal sensation of the fabric. Table 1 shows the results.

[0035]

[Table 1] From the performance comparison of these fabrics, it can be seen that the fabric of Example 1 is a comfortable garment material having excellent water absorption rate and diffusivity, a small value of qmax in a wet state, and no contact cold / hot feeling. Further, the woven fabric of Example 2 has a larger qmax in a dry state than the woven fabric of Example 1, and the contact cool / cool feeling is cool and effective in summer. On the other hand, the woven fabric of the comparative example is inferior in moisture absorption and diffusion, and has a large qmax in a wet state. In addition, cotton material,
Although the water absorption rate is high, the diffusivity is poor, the qmax in a wet state is large, and the comfort is poor.

Here, qmax (w / cm ² ) in the dry state is:
Made by Kato Iron Works Co., Ltd. “Precision rapid thermophysical property measuring device” KE
It is a cooling / cooling sensation evaluation value (also referred to as a normal contact cooling / cooling sensation) measured on a woven fabric sample in a measurement room conditioned at 20 ° C. × 65% RH by S-F7 (THERMO LABOIITYPE). I feel cold. Also, qmax (w / cm ² ) in a wet state is
As measurement conditions with the above measuring device, a drop of 0.1 cc of distilled water was made with a syringe on a plastic plate placed on a table, and the back surface of the woven fabric sample to be measured was gently placed on the drop of water and allowed to absorb and diffuse. After 30 seconds, the measurement is performed in the same manner as above.

[0037]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric which is excellent not only in water absorption and water permeability but also in wearing comfort. In particular, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having water permeability as a comfort function, and having a soft touch and comfort due to water absorption / diffusion when a garment is worn as clothing on relatively thin fabric. Further, the woven fabric of the present invention has tension, waist, rebound, and drape suitable for silhouette.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Hiroaki Kobayashi 3-3-3 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku, Osaka Toray Co., Ltd. Osaka Works Co., Ltd. Textile Co., Ltd.

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A warp yarn on the surface side is made of a spun short fiber,
A woven fabric having a multi-layered structure comprising a multifilament yarn in which a warp on the back side is twisted, wherein the back side has a structure in which the back side makes point contact with a contact surface. 2. The long-short composite fabric according to claim 1, wherein the relationship of the arrangement of the warp on the front side and the warp on the back side is 2: 1 to 12: 1. 3. The multifilament yarn has a twist coefficient α.
The long and short composite structure woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the woven fabric is twisted at 1,000 to 18,000. 4. The long-short composite fabric according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn and / or the yarn constituting the surface has a multi-lobed or irregular cross-sectional shape. 5. The multifilament yarn according to claim 1, wherein the multifilament yarn and / or the yarn constituting the surface is a multifilament yarn made of a polymer containing 1 to 7% by weight of ceramics. Long and short composite fabric. 6. The long-short composite structure woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the yarn constituting the surface of the woven fabric has a hygroscopic property. 7. The weft of the woven fabric is a yarn having a multi-leaf or irregular cross-sectional shape.
The long and short composite structure woven fabric according to any one of the above.