JPS60237012A - Hair retreatment composition and method - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a composition and method for hair regrowth.

[Prior art and its problems]

For example, in the method of hair reorganization by permanent waving or "balming", the overall sequence can be expressed as follows: penetration of the reducing agent into the hair, 2, kssk+R8H#ksH-f4tssk.

3.8SR+R8H=kSH+R85R.

4. Rearrangement of protein chains; Fixation of curls by regeneration of 5-cystine bonds.

It has been reported in the literature that under alkaline wave conditions, penetration is a slow process, with steps 2 and 3 possibly occurring as quickly as penetration occurs.

The fourth step is critical to making the process commercially acceptable. It is believed that under acidic conditions, such as pH 5-7, it is necessary to apply heat to properly reorganize the hair. If it is the number of cases, step 2 will be the main one,
Alternatively, this is because it becomes a rate-determining step. Under such conditions, hair becomes more susceptible to regeneration of cystine bonds by reversing reaction 2 during rinsing.

Under alkaline conditions, the reaction proceeds with cysteine (ksH
) progresses sufficiently through step 3 while increasing the production of
Subsequent protein rearrangements are obtained.

For this reason, alkaline waving solutions are preferred by the beauty industry.

In conventional permanent methods, the hair is contacted after washing with a waving solution of a reducing agent (generally a mercaptan) present in a sufficient concentration to cleave cystine (disulfide) bonds. Cleavage softens the protein structure (keratin) of the hair. The contact time is 1) How to use H1 and about 6
It depends on the operating temperature, which can be up to 0°C. Penetrants, such as wetting agents, are commonly used to facilitate reduction.

In practice, the main goal is to complete the waving process safely and with customer satisfaction in less than one hour. Chemically pretreated hair can be contacted with a weaker solution for a shorter period of time than normal hair. For difficult-to-process hair or to shorten processing times, a high strength reducing agent solution is required.

When applying a permanent, the technician typically creates test curls to determine whether the hair has been sufficiently treated or whether maximum bond cleavage has occurred. This check involves unwinding some curls from the mandrel to see if a "soft s" is formed in the diameter of the mandrel pattern. This is a subjective, objective and skilled test of whether sufficient hair softening has occurred to form a satisfactory wave, and is generally expressed by the technician as the time of contact between the waving solution and the hair. Effectively, this is a measure of step 4 (i.e. protein-mediated rearrangement to accommodate mandrel diameter). After sufficient test curls have been obtained, the waving solution is generally rinsed from the hair and an oxidizing agent is applied while the hair is still set on the mandrel to fix the new curl pattern. The hair is thoroughly irrigated, preferably without conditioning, and then dried.

People with naturally curly or curly hair often desire to have their hair straightened or partially straightened and then left loosely curled or permanent. However, curly hair and (
or) Problems arise due to tortuous helical twists and bends of the curly hair.

First of all, curly or curly hair is difficult to maintain and difficult to style in a cosmetically desirable manner.

Additionally, this yuzu hair is easily damaged mechanically due to increased frictional forces within the fibers resulting from efforts to style the hair into a desired style. Additionally, curly or curly hair is generally drier and more brittle than naturally wavy or straight hair.

Traditionally, the reorganization of curly or curly hair is accomplished by one of three chemical treatments. This involves straightening the hair with caustic soda (NaOH) in a cream base. This method requires tedious combing and slicking of the hair over a considerable period of time and is damaging to the hair by inducing dryness, brittleness, and breakage, as well as itching, burning, and irritation of the scalp. This is accompanied by discomfort for the customer due to blisters.

A further disadvantage is that caustic treated hair is difficult to treat with other chemicals such as Permanent Wave or Palm Kit.

In short, the chemistry of caustic reactions to hair is completely unsuitable for beauty salon conditioning regimes.

This is partly because the reaction kssK +OH#ksk (1) irreversibly converts hydroxyl ions into cystine (kss
This is because lanthionine is produced by breaking the sk) bond.

The second method is the use of a reverse permanent wave method, in which sulfite or bisulfite salts are used to cleave protein disulfides. This method is unsatisfactory because of the long processing times and the tendency of sulfites to weaken or change the natural hair color. Another negative effect is that the hair has a strong tendency to return to its original braided or curly shape when it is wetted and washed. Furthermore, this reaction system occurs under acidic conditions and tends to remain in the first stage of the reaction [corresponding to reaction (2)], as explained below: k
sH(2) A third method uses thioglycolic acid noammonium salt as the binding halide agent. Itching, prolonged treatment, and reversal commonly occur in this treatment, as in sulfite or bisulfite reverse permanent waves.

There has been a long history of techniques for processing natural curly or curly hair into a shape that is attractive to the wearer and that does not result in tedious procedures and itchy scalp. Additionally, the industry desires techniques that can be applied uniformly to all customers, whether new or unfamiliar to the technician, to ensure the best results. .

[Purpose of the invention]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a useful method and method suitable for easily standardizing permanent operations and for straightening or making curly or curly hair permanent, significantly reducing customer discomfort. It is about providing something.

[Key points of the invention]

The present invention allows for permanent waving, etc., using means and precise sequence of steps that reduces the possibility of damaging the hair or the head, shortens the overall treatment cycle, and also ensures a better and more uniform final hair. P+Mta of hair
directed towards achieving success.

Broadly, in accordance with the present invention, hair is subjected to the action of a reactive waving solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine for a period of time sufficient to obtain approximately maximum bond cleavage; 1. Remove excess wave solution by blotting and then add a suitable protein solution that can cause protein flux to the desired new configuration. Apply dynamic solution (reaction 4).

It is then oxidized to reestablish cystine bonds. This operation can be used to remove natural curls or curls by wrapping the hair onto a mandrel as it is exposed to a reducing solution, or by straightening the hair.
Alternatively, the hair can be made wavy by primarily setting it or applying a permanent afterwards.

Preferably, the method essentially contacts the conditioned hair with a reducing solution consisting of at least one water-soluble mercaptan capable of cleaving cystine bonds. The pH of the solution ranges from acidic 5 to alkaline 10, preferably from about 6 to about 10, particularly preferably from about 6 to about 95. The reducing agent is present at a concentration sufficient to achieve maximum bond cleavage in 5 to 20 minutes while providing hair penetration.

Excess reducing solution is wicked away from the hair. The hair is then suitably treated with a protein fluid solution, preferably from 2 to about 10 hydroxy organic compounds having at least one polyvalent ion and/or one or more hydroxyl groups and up to about 4 carbon atoms. A suitable protein fluidization solution consisting of an aqueous solution having a pH of
Contact for a minute. The solution may also contain detergents, conditioners such as proteins, fragrances, etc. to further promote penetration. Cystine bonds are then regenerated by oxidation with conventional peroxide or bromide oxidizing solutions.

This procedure is basic for permanent hair. If the new hair structure is straight hair, the hair can be kept as is or it can be made permanent by repeating the permanent process after straightening. When used to straighten hair, a thickener can be used to maintain the composition in contact with the hair during the stretching operation.

The present invention provides methods for converting cystine from one shape to another by using a protein flux solution following controlled cystine cleavage and, as a final step, oxidizing the hair to its desired final shape to return cystine bonds. Directed to reorganizing hair into shape. This method can be used to curl straight hair, or to straighten curly or fluffy hair, with or without subsequent permanent combing of the hair.

The invention will be described by comparing the results obtained with conventional operation and the differences achieved by implementing the invention.

As used herein, the term "maximal bond cleavage" means
Refers to the short amount of cystine (sulfide) bonds cleaved during the waving process, as determined by red time analysis of cysteine content. Generally, at least 30% cystine cleavage is required, and a successful wave typically yields about 30 to about 50 cystines.

The term "test curl" is a visual measurement of softening to form waves that are satisfactory to a permanent technician. This is expressed as the contact time with the wave solution.

"Efficiency" is a measure of the appearance of curl firmness by waving hair on mandrels (pegs) at predetermined intervals. This is expressed as the maximum hardness measured by the shape of the spacing. Straw efficiency indicates the appearance of stiff curls, but not necessarily elasticity.

"Springiness" is a measure of curl or springiness recovery established by stretching or pressing a wavy curl pattern on a mandrel at predetermined intervals. The greater the return or recovery, the greater the elasticity of the formed curl. Curls may be stiff but not elastic. The opposite is also possible.

"Formed Curl" is the curl pattern seen at the time of the test curl, expressed as a commercially acceptable elasticity value as compared to the acceptable elasticity of permanent hair.

The expression "shape the hair into a straight shape" means any operation, such as brushing, used in conjunction with the application solution, which manipulates the hair into its original curly or curly shape. Used in conjunction with solutions for straightening.

"Protein flow" refers to the molecular rearrangement of keratin-protein chains to form a curl pattern relative to the formed curl. Contrary to popular opinion, "protein flux" is not synonymous with "cystine cleavage."

The term "hydroxy organic compound" means an alcohol or polyol having up to about 4 carbon atoms.

The term "multivalent ion" means that when present in solution,
It means an ion that has at least a valence of two. This promotes protein flux but does not prevent cystine bond regeneration.

Preferably, cations are present. However, it has been observed and suspected that anions may also function.

According to the invention, cystine cleavage is an operation independent of induced protein flux. As a separate operation, more efficient hair reorganization is achieved in less time and without customer discomfort.

When used for permanent manipulation, the method is to first wash the hair and then wind the hair onto a mandrel. then applying a reducing solution of at least one reducing agent to hair hecystin (S-8) bonds;
This reducing agent can be acidic or alkaline.

Suitable reducing agents are mercaptans, including thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine, salts and derivatives thereof, sulfites, and the like. In view of the background of the invention, alkaline rather than acidic wave solutions are preferably used. This is because acidic wave solutions are more or less restricted to the reaction of step 2, independent of concentration and heating, whereas steps 3 and 4 occur more easily in alkaline systems with a pH greater than 7. Furthermore, under acidic conditions, fiber swelling is minimal and ion attraction between protein negative side chains is maximal.

For this reason, in part, solutions such as thioglycolic acid at a pH of 5-7 are less preferred than wave solutions of the same compound at an alkaline pH.

If the hair is to be straightened, the reducing solution is made viscous and the pH is adjusted from about 6 to about 10 using, for example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines, amino acids, and carboxylic methyl cellulose. ．． Preferably, it can be maintained within the range of 6 to 7. Suitable agents for increasing the viscosity, preferably to gel proportions, include stable gums, gelatins, cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethyl cellulose, and the like.

Depending on whether the hair is permed or straightened, maximum cystine cleavage can be achieved in about 5 to about 20 minutes, with excess time of about 15 minutes or more depending on the reagent concentration, p.
J: is controlled by H1 temperature or hair condition. Generally, the maximum time is about 10 minutes [+] and cleavage occurs simultaneously with penetration. Times longer than about 20 minutes are not necessary for the present invention.

This is because, in practicing the present invention, a secondary and highly harmful and brute force means is used to induce protein flux, ie, using a protein flux solution as described herein.

Under conventionally suitable alkaline conditions, as described above, the reaction proceeds satisfactorily, increasing the formation of cysteine (ksH) and losing the mixed disulfide (kssR) bond, through a long chain reaction 83.

Furthermore, the protein chains have an excess of bottleneck charge, increasing hair swelling and inducing protein flux through expulsion. As a result, the initial concentration of mixed disulfides decreases rapidly, and generally the method proceeds through step 4, with protein flux determined by the skilled technician, which in the case of perming forms car A/ This is a measure of the formation of hair, or in the case of straightening, the formation of loose hair.

As mentioned above, cleavage during acid wave solution is step 1.
and 2, and for alkaline wave solutions the cleavage proceeds to step 4. 1) Remove excess reducing solution by blotting the hair independently of H. this is,
Maintain the equilibrium of cystine cleavage achieved. The blip at this point is avoided because cystine is produced by reversing step 2. Rather, protein flux is induced by a protein flux solution. Preferably, the protein fluid solution used contains a water-soluble hydroxy organic compound and (
or) an aqueous solution of multivalent ions.

The protein flow solutions described herein can be used as long as the reducing solution is based on glycerin monothioglycolate under neutral or acidic to neutral conditions. This is because glycerin monothioglycolic acid ester is intermediate and has a pKsH of 10.2 for thioglycolic acid, whereas ionization increases under acidic conditions with PKSH 7 and 8.

Accordingly, to apply the present invention, the hair is treated with the reducing solution for a predetermined period of about 5 to about 20 minutes, preferably 5 to 1 minute, and then excess gradient solution is blotted from the hair. This leaves residue in the fiber to maintain maximum bond cleavage for subsequent protein rearrangement by the protein flow solution.

Protein rearrangement is then accomplished by applying to the hair an aqueous protein fluid solution comprising at least one water-soluble salt of a multivalent ion with an ionic charge of at least two and acceptable repulsion. Magnesium and calcium salts, preferably sulfates, are currently preferred. These salts can be used at concentrations up to solution saturation, generally from about 1 to about 10% by weight. Alternatively, at least one hydroxy organic compound having up to about 4 additional carbon atoms is preferably used. This can be an alcohol and/or a polyol. Again, the concentration can be up to solution saturation, or up to a temperature that would be harmful to the customer or use of the Fi bath solution. Although not limited, representative active compounds include ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, propylene glycol, and the like. Generally, 2-butanol is not used because of its odor. Methanol can also work, but can cause sensitization problems.

Generally, the alcohol or polyol is present at a concentration of up to about 25% by weight of the solution, preferably from about 1 to about 20%, more preferably from about 2 to about 10%. The solution pH can range from about 2 to about 10, preferably from about 6 to about 7, such as ammonia, alkaline amino acids,
It can be adjusted by adding alkanolamines, alkali carbonates, etc.

Disrupting agents such as urea, guanidine, amides, betaines and surfactants which act to expand protein structures can also be included in the protein fluid solution used.

Generally, protein fluid solutions include wetting agents such as nonionic, cationic or anionic detergents; conditioners such as amino acids or Vi proteins; thickening agents that include gel forming agents to straighten the hair. polymers or water-soluble fat derivatives such as agents; coloring agents; flavoring agents; and preservatives.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, the use of ionic solutions creates a concentration gradient that causes the fibers to temporarily absorb positively charged ions, neutralizing the uncharged protein side and increasing protein mobility. and flow to a new desired shape.

The alcohol or polyol component induces permeation and hydrophobic rearrangement of protein side chains, further increasing the tendency to flow. Protein flux is completed in 5-10 minutes, which is predetermined by the exact composition, temperature and condition of the hair.

Although the solution is used twice in the practice of the invention, the wave operation is faster, has a maximum possible completion time of 15 minutes, and provides repeatable and reliable results for the cleavage and rearrangement steps.

After addition of the protein fluid solution to the hair, the hair is rinsed and the disulfide bonds are regenerated by conventional oxidation operations, such as by applying a peroxide and bromide recombination solution. This ensures recombination of disulfide bonds.

If the operation is to straighten the hair, a web is required and the process is repeated, except that the reducing solution and protein flux solution are generally not viscous.

This is because the hair forms curls as opposed to being wrapped around a mandrel and held in a straight shape.

The following are suitable acidic and alkaline systems for use in the present invention.

Acidic regenerant glycerin monothioglycolic acid ester residue (
Weight %) Ammonia 0.34% to 0.85 Thiurea 100% to 15.00% Nonionic surfactant 1.00% to 6.00% Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50% Water The remainder The remainder is combined in proportions to give a pH of 6.8 to ZO at the time of use.

Fluid solution (wt%) Nonionic surfactant 0.50% to 6.00% Fragrance 0.10% to 0.50 Anhydrous alcohol 2.00% to 5,00 Magnesium thiosulfate 1.00% to 15 .00% water Remainder When straightening the hair, cellulose gum at a concentration of [125 to 3.0% by weight can be used in the rejuvenating agent and flow solution.

Non-ionic surfactant 100% - 5.00% fragrance
0.10%~0.50% H1O! (50 chi) 3. oo% ~ 5,00ch water
Remainder: Binding lotion for immediate skin removal (% by weight) Non-ionic surfactant: 110% - 5.00% Fragrance: 0.1
0% to 0.50% Fatty alcohol 0.10% to 0.40% Polymer JR
(a) 0.10% to 100% sodium bromide 5
．． 00% to 12.00% water, balance (a) Conditioner manufactured and sold by Union Carbide Corporation.

Alkaline ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid g n, s% Nonionic surfactant 2.00% ~ 600% Urea ttto% ~ 1
5.00% Fragrance [1,5qb Ammonium thioglycolate 8.00%~12.0
0% ammonia aqueous solution (28 cm) 2.12% to 5.0
0% water Balance pH 9-95 Fluid lotion (wt%) Non-ionic surfactant 0.5 Q%-600% Fragrance [L10-11.50% Absolute alcohol 2.00%-5.00% Magnesium sulfate tOD - ~15.00% water, balance using gelling agent and binding lotion as above.

[Embodiments of the invention]

The present invention will be described above with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.

Example 1 A series of experiments were performed to determine the extent of cystine cleavage achieved within 5 minutes. Table 1 shows typical cleavages for alkaline and acidic (ammonium thioglycolate) and neutral (glycerin monothioglycolate) wave solutions. Hair was from the same specimen. In each case the reducing agent was present at a concentration of 7% by weight.

Table 1: Alkaline (pH 9,2) 515 Thiacid (pH 48) 66% GMTG (pH 7,0) 33% shows the kinetics of the performance of a pH 9.5 solution consisting of
Figures 2 and 3 show, respectively, an acid wave solution (a pH 6.9 solution consisting of 7 parts by weight of ammonium thioglycolate and 5 parts by weight of a non-ionic compound) and Cleartip Curl (registered trademark) or 14.7 weight i: s
Glycerin monothioglycolic acid ester (GMTG)
) shows the kinetics of cystine cleavage for a commercially available acidic wave solution containing. All of these confirmed that maximal or near maximal bond cleavage occurs in 5 minutes, and GM
In the case of TG, it is accompanied by an increase of magnitude consisting of intervals of 5-10 minutes. Therefore, it was determined that in most cases, approximately maximal bond cleavage is achieved in 5-10 minutes.

Comparative Example A In a controlled beauty salon test, cystine and CMTC content in controlled amounts of hair was measured at various times during the waving operation. This confirmed that the amount of cystine did not decrease and mixed disulfides did not increase due to long-term contact with the wave solution. Furthermore, a strong influence of water on restoration of cystine bonds was demonstrated. The wave solution is 11-IS ammonium thioglycolate,
That is, it was composed of a nonionic surfactant and had a pH of 1O.

Section ■ Front hair washing 14.9±01 Micro-rinsing (H, O) 1to±0.1 14±0.3 Fermentation
131±0.1 19±00 Example 2 To further confirm that ineffective cleavage is achieved in 5 minutes, 12 customers were each exposed to an acid wave (11fi-
ATG of jl, pI' (49, 50°C) and alkaline wave (ATG of 71-iqb, pH 92, room temperature) were applied, and the cystine was rinsed with water several times. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

Table ■ - Acidic wave cleavage cystinchi 48 ± 5 chi Cystin % by water pooling 59 ± 30 Cys tinchi recovered by oxidizing agent 86% ± 7 chi cleavage cystin
29 ± 7 ± 20% to 46% Recovered cystin by water irrigation 69 ± 22% 58% to 135% Recovered cystin by oxidizing agent 95 ± 6% 78% to 113%* Based on available binding sites For values over 100tlb,
This means that additional casistin bonds were formed in conjunction with water or an oxidizing agent.

Example 3 Table 7 below shows the curl elasticity as a function of the composition of the protein flux solution applied after blotting. After blotting, thioglycolic acid a/sonilla at pH 9.2 was added.
Waves were performed for 5 minutes using a %wt solution.

Table V Curl elasticity process 2 Stress of 0~ Stress of 1o~ Water only 1.8 11 5 f'Jm % Mg5O, (a) 2.7 1.7
5 weight 1k% 5DA-40(a) 2.5 1. ,s
5 wt% Mg504(a) + 5 weight i! '% 5DA-40(a)2.9 1. r
p(a) The balance water 5DA-40 is a denatured absolute alcohol.

Examples 4 and 5 Tests were conducted regarding initiation of curl formation versus cleavage.

Figure 4 shows the onset of curl formation, and Figure 5 shows curl formation as a function of efficiency for cysteine cleavage.

Unlike the prior art, curl formation was confirmed to be delayed relative to cleavage, with protein flux being the rate-limiting step. This allowed us to treat protein flux as a factor independent of cleavage.

The wave solution used for the test consisted of a solution of 7% by weight ammonium thioglycolate and 5% by weight nonionic surfactant at pH 7O and 50°C.

Example 6 and Comparative Examples B and C Table 3 shows the results using the same wave conditions, i.e. 5 minutes contact with a 7 wt% ATG solution at pH 92, but in this case the blotting and working solutions were varied. I let it happen.

(Table ■ Comparative example Test force comparison example B 5 minutes Absorption 5 10 minutes Water 64 1
．． 4 107% ATG pH 9.2 Comparative Example C 5 minutes Rinse 10 minutes 52cm 161.0
7-ATG Polyamide - Figure 6 dramatically illustrates the effects of using the present invention.

Curl elasticity with water rinsing was not improved by delaying water addition for the indicated times after blotting, whereas
Applying the protein flux solution for 10 minutes after blotting increased the elasticity by 100 inches.

(b) U.S. Patent No. 5.981. ! i See No. 12.

*% by weight Example 7 The table below shows that 5 g of Mg S 04 was added to the protein fluid solution.
Figure 1 shows the performance of various alcohols supplemented with Grinyl (5% by weight). This solution has a pH of 9i2
It was applied after blotting the hair that had been in contact with the wt% ATG solution for 5 minutes. The contact time with the protein fluid solution was 10 minutes.

Table ■ Curl elasticity 5 weight: Beast IDA-402, 61, 15 5 weight% isopropyl alcohol 2.9 1.75 weight thipropylene glycol 2.4 1.65 weight 2
-Butanol 5O19 51-Amount Chiller Butanol 2.5 175% by weight t-
Butanol 2.7 1.851 amount Thimethanol 3.
0 1.9 5 weight percent isoamyl alcohol 2.4 14 Example 8 The acidic regenerant and the remainder are combined in proportions to give a solution pH of about 6.8 to z2 (generally about y,o); Cystine bonds were cleaved when used in combination with brushing. Contact was for approximately 20 minutes, after which the solution was blotted and the viscous protein fluid gel was combed into the hair for 5 to 20 minutes to obtain a straightened condition. After rolling, a binding lotion can be applied if a straight shape is desired. If not desired, wrap the hair onto a mandrel. The regenerant and the remainder are then combined and reapplied to re-cleave the cystine bonds formed by rinsing. After blotting, apply liquid lotion. After about 5 to about 10 minutes, the flowing lotion is rinsed from the hair and the binding lotion is applied to regenerate cystine bonds.

Perform the multi-room test according to procedure 1- above, and straighten the hair of only 3 (n = 3) customers, or straighten the hair of 12 (n = 12) customers.

It was recurled. The results of this method and the hair condition were evaluated on a scale of 1 to 10 (maximum 10). Table 1 shows the results of the test.

Table 1 Straightening and paring Ease of use 10 9 Straightening efficiency 98 Hair braid 1 & 1 (wet) 88 Compatibility (wet) 88 Body (dry) 99 艷/Gloss (dry) 99 Care (drying) 10 9 Final curl pattern N/A 9

[Brief explanation of the drawings] Figures 1 to 3 show cystine<5=S indicated by "."
) reduction degree; cysteine C5− indicated by “○”
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the formation of H) and mixed disulfides (CMTC) indicated by "x"; FIG. Figure 2 is a graph of the rate change in hair as a function of time using an alkaline solution containing about 5% by weight of non-ionic surfactant as a reducing agent; Figure 3 is a graph of the rate change of acidic hair reduction using a waving solution of 7 Ft% ammonium thioglycolate containing % nonionic surfactant; Glycolic acid ester (GMTC)
4 and 5 are graphs showing the onset of curl formation and curl efficiency versus cleavage as a function of time, respectively, establishing the formation-delayed cleavage of cystine. and FIG. 6 is a graph showing the dramatic difference in waving using the same waving solution according to the practice of the present invention. Blotting was performed at 5 minute intervals. Each post-blotting point represents the elasticity of the hair at that point after it has been blotted out and rebonded. The solid line is a plot of curl elasticity versus time using Redken Climadress® as the waving solution in a conventional waving method. The dashed line is a plot showing the elasticity obtained using a protein fluid aqueous solution of magnesium sulfate and ethanol. ※ ′/! Continuing from page 1 of ql Immediately...Sasugi 1+-[7] Priority claim 61984 February 6 [phase] United States (US)
0 Inventor Nidward Roba-Amet Moore Ura [Co.] 577180 T-20707 Arched Street, Canoga Park, California, United States Procedural Amendment (Method) % Formula % Case Description 1985 Patent Application No. 18802 Title of the invention Composition for re-synthesizing hair and its relationship to the case of the person amending the method Name of the patent applicant Redken Laboratories, Inc. Agent Address: 103 Power of attorney for the patent applicant of the application subject to amendment and its Translation 1 copy each Drawing Surface 1 content of amendments As shown in the attached sheet, the drawings have been revised #' (no change in content)

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] (1) Cystine cleavage is carried out by exposing the hair to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine, and an oxidizing agent is applied to the hair. In a method of permanently reorganizing hair that comprises regenerating cystine bonds by (a) contacting the hair with a reactive reducing solution for a period sufficient to obtain approximately maximum cystine bond cleavage; blotting to remove the reactive reducing solution, and (c) contacting the hair with the protein flux solution for a sufficient period of time to induce protein flux into the hair to achieve the desired reorganization.
After obtaining the desired shape, the reorganized shape is fixed by applying an oxidizing agent to re-establish the cystine bonds, and the protein fluid solution is a protein fluid aqueous solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10 and is polyvalent. ions, water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof. A permanent hair reorganization method. . (2) The method according to claim 1, wherein the hair is rearranged on a mandrel to form curls. (3) The method according to claim 1, wherein hair is braided into a straight shape. (4) Steps (a) to (c) are repeated before the oxidizing agent is applied and after the hair has been reorganized into a straight moth shape, and the hair is anchored and wound on a mandrel. Method. (5) Exposing the hair wrapped on a mandrel to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine to effect cystine cleavage and applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to reduce cystine. In a permanent waving method of hair that regenerates bonds, (a) the hair is contacted with a reactive reducing solution for about 5 to about 15 minutes to effect near maximum cystine bond cleavage; and (b)
the hair was blotted to remove the reactive waving solution, and (c) the hair was contacted with a protein flux solution for about 5 to about 10 minutes to induce protein flux in the hair, thereby obtaining the desired curl shape. He re-establishes the cystine bonds and fixes the curl by applying an oxidizing agent, and the protein fluid solution is a protein fluid aqueous solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10 and is present at a freezing temperature up to solution saturation. selected from the group consisting of polyvalent ions, water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present at a concentration up to about 25% by weight of solution, and mixtures thereof. A method for permanently waving hair, characterized in that it consists of an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent. (6) (a) treating the hair with a reactive reducing solution comprising at least one reducing agent having a pH of from about 6 to about 10 and capable of cleaving cystine and sufficient to obtain approximately maximum cystine bond cleavage; (b) blot the hair to remove excess reactive reducing solution; and (c) a period of time sufficient to induce protein flux into the hair. The hair is contacted with a viscous protein fluid solution over a period of time to obtain the desired straight shape, the viscous protein fluid solution being an aqueous solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10 and containing polyvalent ions,
(d) an aqueous solution of at least one protein flow agent selected from the group consisting of water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group and mixtures thereof; A treatment for straightening curly or curly hair characterized by rinsing the protein fluid solution from the hair and (,) applying an oxidizing agent to the hair to regenerate cystine bonds while maintaining the hair in a straight shape. How to do it. (71(a)) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine for about 5 to about 20 minutes; (b) blot the hair to remove the viscous reactive reducing solution; and (c) mix the hair with a viscous protein fluid solution for about 5 to 5 hours. The desired straight shape is obtained by inducing protein flux in the hair by contacting for about 10 minutes, the viscous protein flux solution being an aqueous protein flux solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10, and the viscous protein flux solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10. selected from the group consisting of multivalent ions present in concentrations up to about 25% by weight of the solution, water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present in concentrations up to about 25% by weight of the solution; and mixtures thereof. A method for straightening curly or curly hair comprising an aqueous solution of at least one protein flowing agent comprising: (81(a)) hair having a pH of about 6 to about 10; (b) contacting the hair with a viscous, reactive reducing solution comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving for a period sufficient to obtain approximately maximum cystine bond cleavage and causing the hair to straighten; (e) contacting the hair with the viscous protein flux solution for a sufficient period of time to induce protein flux in the hair to obtain the desired straight shape; The viscous protein fluid solution has a pH of about 2 to about 10 and is comprised of polyvalent ions, water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof. (d) rinsing the viscous protein flux solution from the hair; (e) rinsing the viscous protein flux solution from the hair;
) wrapping the hair on a mandrel and exposing the hair wrapped on the mandrel to the action of a reactive reducing solution containing at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine to cleave the cystine bonds and to reduce approximately the maximum amount of cystine; reestablishing bond cleavage; (f) blotting the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution; and (g) contacting the hair with a protein flux solution for a sufficient period of time to induce protein flux into the hair as desired. to obtain a curl shape of about 2 to
A fluid aqueous protein solution having a pH of about 10 selected from the group consisting of multivalent ions, water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds containing up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof. (h) removing the protein fluxing solution from the hair, and (1)
) A waving method for curly or curly hair that involves applying an oxidizing agent to hair wound on a mandrel to regenerate cystine bonds. f9) (a) contacting the hair with a viscous reactive reducing solution having a pH of about 6 to about 10 and comprising at least one reducing agent capable of cleaving cystine for about 5 to about 20 minutes; (b) blotting the hair to remove the viscous reactive reducing solution; (c) soaking the hair in a viscous protein fluid solution for about 5 to about 10 minutes to obtain maximum cystine bond cleavage; The desired straight shape is obtained by inducing protein flux in the hair by contacting the hair for 1 minute, the viscous protein flux solution being an aqueous protein flux solution having a pH of about 2 to about 10, and straining until solution saturation. multivalent ions present in deer; water-soluble hydroxy organic compounds having up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present at concentrations up to about 25% by weight of the solution; and mixtures thereof. (d) irrigating the viscous protein flux solution from the hair;
) Wrap the hair on a mandrel, and wrap the hair around the mandrel with about 2 to about 10 9 □□ 1 ka, V7f'/□ii6+&<ha (reactive containing one type of reducing agent) Under the action of a reducing solution, cystine cleavage is reduced to approximately 5
(f) blot the hair to remove the reactive reducing solution; and (g) soak the hair in a protein flux solution for about 5 minutes to re-establish maximum cystine bond cleavage. The desired curl shape is obtained by inducing protein flux in the hair by contacting for about 10 minutes, the protein flux solution having a concentration of about 2 to about 10
a fluid aqueous solution of a protein having a pH of , comprising polyvalent ions present at a concentration up to solution saturation, up to about 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group present at a concentration up to about 25% by weight of the solution. (h) rinsing the protein flux solution from the hair; and (i) wrapping the hair on a mandrel. A method of waving curly or curly hair, characterized in that the hair is brought into contact with an oxidizing solution to re-establish cystine bonds. 10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydroxy organic compound is selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, and propylene glycol. (II) The ffi source agent is glycerin monothioglycolic acid ester, and the viscosity of the reactive reducing solution is about 6 to about 7
11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, having a pH of . 10. The method of claim 9, wherein the multiply charged ions are present at a concentration of about 1 to about 10 times the solution. (13) About 1 to about 20% of the hydroxy organic compound in the solution
# of weight%! 11. The method of claim 10, wherein the method is present at (14) The method according to any one of items 1'fJ4 to 13, wherein the protein fluid solution has a pH of about 6 to about 7. [The method according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the 51M moiety is glycerin monothioglycolic acid ester or ammonium thioglycolate. ae at least one polyvalent ion present in a concentration up to solution saturation and at least one species selected from alcohols and triols and having up to about 4 carbon atoms present in a concentration up to about 251% of the solution; 1. A fluid protein aqueous solution for inducing protein fluidity in hair having cleaved cystine bonds, the solution comprising a hydroxy organic compound having a pH of about 2 to about 10. Qη The hydroxy organic compound is about 1 to about 10 times the solution
17. A protein fluid solution according to claim 16, wherein the protein fluid solution is present in a concentration of 1'. (18) Hydroxy organic compound with ethyl alcohol,
18. The protein fluid solution according to claim 16 or 17, which is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl alcohol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, and propylene glycol. Claim 16, wherein the protein fluid solution is an aqueous mixture of Mg and at least one hydroxy organic compound selected from the group consisting of ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, isoamyl alcohol, and hygropylene glycol. Protein fluid solution as described in section. (b) The protein fluid solution according to any one of claims 16 to 19, which contains a gelling agent. c! D Multivalent ions are present in the solution at a concentration of about 1 to about 1011 m, % F+: Claims 16 to #!
; The protein fluid solution according to any one of Item 19. (2) The protein fluid solution according to any one of claims 16 to 21, wherein the protein fluid solution has a pH of about 6 to about 7.