JPS6024873B2 - Manufacturing method of Kasuri pattern fabric - Google Patents
Manufacturing method of Kasuri pattern fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPS6024873B2 JPS6024873B2 JP54088624A JP8862479A JPS6024873B2 JP S6024873 B2 JPS6024873 B2 JP S6024873B2 JP 54088624 A JP54088624 A JP 54088624A JP 8862479 A JP8862479 A JP 8862479A JP S6024873 B2 JPS6024873 B2 JP S6024873B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- warp
- kasuri
- color
- ground
- small
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 13
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 238000007639 printing Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010018 discharge printing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 241000519695 Ilex integra Species 0.000 description 18
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 14
- 102100020720 Calcium channel flower homolog Human genes 0.000 description 4
- 101000932468 Homo sapiens Calcium channel flower homolog Proteins 0.000 description 4
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 4
- 241000209094 Oryza Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000007164 Oryza sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000010354 integration Effects 0.000 description 3
- 235000009566 rice Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium(2+) 5-chloro-2-[(2-hydroxynaphthalen-1-yl)diazenyl]-4-methylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Ba+2].C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O.C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Coloring (AREA)
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
本発明は、地の部分に汚線の生じないように縦糸をも地
糸と一緒に総梁したするもので、この為餅づけを抜着梁
により行い、抜色走りのないよう配慮した濃色地に異色
4・粉梁による縦模様を表現せしめた美しい餅模様織物
を安価に提供し得る餅模様織物の製造法に関するものに
して、抜色される染料を使用して所望濃色地に総染した
隆糸のうち緋模様をつける経糸を捺染台上に整経し、こ
の整経経糸上に餅型紙を当て、後記の抜染工程で抜色さ
れない地と同色の染料を使用して小紛染を行い、この小
絞梁の上に模様型紙を当て、地と異色の抜着染料を使用
して抜着捺染を行って所望模様の範囲で不抜地色間を着
色した4・縦隆糸を製作し、この小緋経糸の製作と同機
な技法で小縦縞糸を製作し、この小耕経糸をと小紡績糸
と一緒に総染した地経緯糸とを使用して濃色地に異色小
縦による縦模様を表現せしめたことを特徴とするもので
ある。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In the present invention, the warp threads are made entirely of beams together with the ground threads so as not to cause stains on the ground part.For this reason, the mochizuke is carried out using a stripping beam. This article relates to a method of manufacturing mochi-patterned fabrics that can produce beautiful mochi-patterned fabrics at low cost, expressing a vertical pattern made of unique color 4 and powder beams on a dark-colored ground that does not run, and uses dyes that remove color. Then, among the ridge threads dyed all over the desired dark color, the warp threads that will give the scarlet pattern are warped on a printing table, and a mochi pattern paper is placed on top of the warped warp threads, which are the same color as the ground that will not be colored in the discharge printing process described later. Perform small-blend dyeing using the dye, place the pattern paper on top of this small shibori beam, perform strip-print printing using a strip-free dye of a different color from the ground, and create a non-bleed ground color within the desired pattern area. 4. A warp thread with colored spaces is produced, a small vertical striped thread is produced using the same technique as the production of this small scarlet warp thread, and this small warp thread is dyed together with a small spun thread to create a ground weft thread and warp thread. It is characterized by the fact that it uses a dark-colored background to express a vertical pattern with unique small and vertical patterns.
在来例えば黒色地に赤色の花模様を表現せしめた餅模様
織物を製造する場合先ず2色梁の縦糸を作らなければな
らない。Traditionally, for example, when manufacturing a mochi-patterned fabric that expresses a red flower pattern on a black background, two-color beam warps must first be made.
この2色梁の縦糸を作る場合には2枚の粉型紙を使用し
て色毎に2回緋捺染しなければならない。In order to make the warp threads of this two-color beam, two pieces of powdered paper must be used, and each color must be printed twice in scarlet.
この2枚の縦型紙を使用して正しく2色の緋が交互に連
続するように捺染することは厄介である。すなわち、温
湿度や染料の濃度や捺染熟練度などの諸条件により正し
く縦が連続せず最初の黒色の緋と次の赤色の緋との境界
部に空白部が生じたりして正しい餅捺染ができない欠点
があった。このため濃色の黒色の方は縦型紙を使用して
捺染し赤色の方は縦型紙を使用せずに黒色織部にも重な
るがべた染にし、赤色より黒色の方が濃色のため黒色が
赤色で汚染されず、黒色縦間だけ赤色に染まったように
見える方法も採用されている。ところが、いずれにして
も餅経糸を捺染で黒色に染める場合には地経糸も縦経糸
同様同色の黒地の織物となり即ち黒色地に赤色の緋を表
現したい場合前記の方法では餅経糸の黒色は捺染で行わ
れ、地経糸の黒色は先染浸染で行われることになる。こ
の場合浸染と捺染との染色工程の相違から同じ黒色の染
料を使用しても全く同色にならず、製織した場合地の部
分に浸染による地経糸の黒色と縦捺染による餅経糸の黒
色とが同じ黒色ではなく、少し違う黒色を呈するため経
縞になって汚染(汚線)状態となる。この汚染は地全体
に生ずるため非常に目立ち、商品価値がなくなることに
なる。It is difficult to properly print the two colors of scarlet in alternating succession using these two sheets of vertical paper. In other words, due to various conditions such as temperature and humidity, dye concentration, and printing skill level, the vertical lines may not be continuous correctly, and a blank space may appear at the boundary between the first black (hi) and the next red (hi), resulting in incorrect mochi printing. There was a drawback that it could not be done. For this reason, the dark black color is printed using vertical paper, and the red color is printed solidly, even though it overlaps the black weave, without using vertical paper. A method has also been adopted in which the black vertical spaces appear to be dyed red without being contaminated with red. However, in any case, when the mochi warp is dyed black by printing, the ground warp becomes a black fabric of the same color as the warp, that is, if you want to express red scarlet on a black background, the black color of the mochi warp cannot be printed using the above method. The black color of the ground and warp threads will be dyed by dyeing. In this case, due to the difference in the dyeing process between dyeing and printing, even if the same black dye is used, the color will not be exactly the same, and when weaving, the black of the ground warp due to dyeing and the black of the mochi warp due to vertical printing will be different on the fabric part. It is not the same black color, but a slightly different black color, resulting in warp stripes and contamination (dirty lines). This contamination occurs all over the land and is very noticeable, resulting in a loss of commercial value.
このことは縞糸についても同様で綾織が生ずることにな
る。This also applies to striped yarns, resulting in a twill weave.
本出願人はこの点に着眼し、いろいろ研究を重ねた結果
最初の緋と次の異色緋との餅合わせを考えなくとも良い
方法則ち2枚の鉄型紙を使用しない方法であり且つ濃色
の方だけ餅型紙を使用し、淡異色の方は餅型紙でな〈べ
た染できる方法でありながら地の部分は地経緯糸と一緒
に行い得る繰糸浸染であるから前記の汚染経線や汚染緯
線の生じない織糸の製造を可能にして濃色地に美しい異
色織模様を表現した織模様織物の製造を可能にしたもの
で、抜色し得る染料を使用して濃色地に総梁した糸のう
ち続模様をつける経糸と緯糸を夫々捺染台上に整経して
並べ、この整経並列糸に餅型紙を使用して先ず最初の小
餅梁を行う。The present applicant has focused on this point and has conducted various studies, and has found a method that does not require consideration of the combination of the first scarlet and the next uniquely colored scarlet, that is, a method that does not use two pieces of iron pattern paper, and a dark color. For those with a light and unusual color, we use mochi katagami (rice cake stencil paper).Although it is a method that can be dyed all over with mochi katagami (rice cake stencil paper), the ground part is dyed by yarn reeling, which can be done together with the warp and warp of the ground, so the above-mentioned contaminated meridian and latitude lines can be dyed. It has made it possible to produce weaving threads that do not cause blemishes and to produce woven patterned fabrics that express beautiful, unique weave patterns on dark colored backgrounds. The warp and weft threads, which are to be used to create a continuous pattern, are warped and lined up on a printing table, and the first small mochi beam is made using a mochi pattern paper on these warped parallel threads.
そして次の異色餅梁は鉄型紙でなくて、模様型紙で行う
から在釆のように先、後の統合わせを全然気にしなくと
も良く、単なるべた染であり乍らその染料が抜着染料で
あり、且最初の餅はこの抜着染料により抜色されない染
料を使用し、また地梁は抜色される染料を使用している
から模様型紙の模様窓の範囲内で抜色と着色とが行われ
るため統合わせではなく、抜色されない耕同志の間を確
実に異色に着色でき、統合わせの場合のように境界部に
空白部が生ずるようなことは絶対に起り得ないことにな
る。The next unique mochiliang is made using a patterned paper rather than an iron pattern, so there is no need to worry about the integration before and after, unlike in the case of zaiko, and although it is just solid dyeing, the dye is a pick-up dye. And since the first rice cake uses a dye that cannot be colored by this extraction dye, and the base beam uses a dye that can be extracted, color extraction and coloring can be done within the range of the pattern window of the pattern paper. Because this is done, instead of merging, it is possible to reliably color the gaps between Kodoshi that are not colored in a different color, and there will never be a blank space at the boundary like in the case of merging. .
而かも一度は餅型紙による粉梁であるが、次の異色緋は
縦梁ではなく単なる模様染でべた捺染で良いからそれだ
け捺染が容易であるだけでなく、型紙の製作もその分だ
け簡易となり、全体としてコスト安に縦糸が製作される
ことになる。Moreover, once the powder beams were made using mochi pattern paper, but the next unique color, Hi, is not just a vertical beam, but can be simply pattern dyed and solid printed, which not only makes it easier to print, but also makes the paper patterns that much easier to make. , the warp threads can be produced at a lower cost overall.
而かも前記した統合わせを配慮しての捺染は細かい程難
しいことになるが、本発明はこの総合わせが不要な方法
で縦糸を製造するからどんなに細かい緋でも製造出来る
し、細かい為苦労する分だけコスト高になる縦糸を容易
に且コスト安に量産し得るから在来高価であった細かい
織織物を安価に量産し得る特長を発揮することになる。Moreover, printing with consideration to the above-mentioned integration becomes more difficult the finer the detail, but since the present invention produces the warp by a method that does not require this integration, no matter how fine the scarlet threads can be produced, it is possible to print even finer scarlet threads. Since the warp threads, which are otherwise expensive, can be mass-produced easily and at low cost, fine woven fabrics, which were conventionally expensive, can be mass-produced at low cost.
更に地を渡色とし、最初の縦を地と同色にするから最初
の餅梁は地を汚染する心配がなく、適当な範囲を設定し
て行えば良く、汚染を考えないで良いことはそれだけ作
業能率を良好にする。次に異色織はその設定範囲内で行
うもので、この時模様窓を設定して行うことにより抜色
されない最初の餅と次の抜着された異色緋との2色の縦
糸となる。このような縦糸を小緋経糸と小紡績糸として
使用した餅織物を製織するから濃色地に異色緋が連続し
た美しい異色小紋による所定の粉模様例えば細かい緋だ
けの集合で花を表現した美しい餅模様を表現した縦模様
織物になる。In addition, since the ground is colored in a different color and the first vertical direction is the same color as the ground, there is no need to worry about contaminating the ground with the first mochi beam, and you can set an appropriate range and do it without worrying about contamination. Improve work efficiency. Next, the different color weaving is performed within the set range, and by setting the pattern window at this time, the two-colored warp threads are created: the first mochi, which is not removed, and the next, different color scarlet, which is removed. Because we weave mochi textiles using such warp threads as small scarlet warp threads and small spun threads, we create a beautiful powder pattern with beautiful small patterns of different colors on a dark background.For example, a beautiful flower is expressed by a collection of only fine scarlets. It becomes a vertically patterned fabric that expresses the mochi pattern.
次に本発明において、一番重要なことは、縦糸をあらか
じめ繰糸として浸染する先染により地の濃色を染めてい
るという点である。Next, in the present invention, the most important point is that the dark color of the ground is dyed by yarn dyeing, in which the warp threads are reeled in advance and dyed.
このように本来捺染により緋づけする縦糸を先梁浸染を
採用することにより先染浸染することが原則である地糸
と一緒に総糸にして浸染し得ることになる。In this way, by employing the head-liang dyeing method, the warp threads, which are originally made scarlet by printing, can be dyed together with the base threads, which are normally dyed with the threads.
このように地糸と粉糸とを一緒に先梁浸染し得ることは
縦織物として極めて注目すべきことで、前記したように
例えば同じ黒色でも浸染と捺染とでは染色条件の相違か
ら同じ黒色にはならない。The fact that ground yarn and powder yarn can be dyed together in this way is extremely noteworthy for warp textiles.As mentioned above, for example, the same black color can be dyed to the same black color due to differences in dyeing conditions between dyeing and printing. Must not be.
従って地糸を浸染し、縦糸を餅型紙を使用して地の黒色
をも捺染する場合両者の黒色が少し相違するためその縦
織物は地の部分において経線、緯タ綿の汚染(汚線とも
いえる)が生じ、極めて商品価値が低下することになる
。この点本発明は前記した抜着技法の採用により縦糸の
地の部分の繰糸浸染を可能にし、最初から縦糸を地糸と
一諸に総糸浸染するから縦糸と地糸0の濃色が全く同じ
濃色を呈し、前記汚染(汚線)現象が全然生じない縦糸
となる等幾多の秀れた特長を発揮する。Therefore, when the ground yarn is dyed and the warp yarn is printed using mochi pattern paper to print the black color of the ground, the black color of the two will be slightly different, and the warp fabric will be contaminated with warp and weft cotton (also known as dirty lines) in the ground part. ), resulting in a significant decline in product value. In this regard, the present invention employs the above-mentioned extraction technique to enable reeling dyeing of the ground portion of the warp yarns, and since the warp yarns and the ground yarns are all dyed from the beginning, the dark colors of the warp yarns and the ground yarns are completely eliminated. It exhibits a number of excellent features, such as a warp yarn that exhibits the same deep color and does not suffer from the staining (dirty lines) phenomenon described above.
次に本発明の実施の一例を詳述すると次の通りである。Next, an example of the implementation of the present invention will be described in detail as follows.
タ 抜色される染料例えば抜色剤により抜色出来易し、
抜性の酸性染料を使用して黒色に総梁した経糸のうち餅
模様をつける縫糸を整経して捺染台上に並列に並べる。
この整経糸に縦型紙を当てて後記の抜染工程で0抜色さ
れない地と同色の染料例えば抜色剤により被色されにく
い雛抜性の酸性染料を使用して濃い黒色に小紛梁を行う
。この小餅梁は地と同色のため図示することが不可能で
あるから小緋梁を施した部分は斜線で図示する。Dye that can be color removed easily with a color remover, for example,
Among the warp threads, which are made black using an extractable acid dye, the sewing threads that will create the mochi pattern are warped and arranged in parallel on the printing table.
A vertical pattern paper is applied to the warp threads, and in the discharging process described later, a dye of the same color as the ground that is not bleached, such as an acidic dye that is difficult to be colored by a color stripping agent, is used to create a deep black color. . It is impossible to illustrate this Komochi Liang because it is the same color as the ground, so the part with the Komochi Liang is shown with diagonal lines.
この小耕梁を行った所定範囲内に納まるそれより小さい
花輪郭の模様窓を有する模様型紙を当てて地と異色の抜
着染料例えば抜色剤を混入した赤色の酸性染料を使用し
て抜着捺染を行って前記織染の施されていない地色を抜
色すると同時に地と異色(赤色)に着色せしめて小耕経
糸を製作する。This small plowing process was carried out by applying a patterned paper with a pattern window of a smaller flower outline within the predetermined area, and removing it using a different colored dye, such as a red acid dye mixed with a color removing agent, to the ground. Printing is performed to remove the ground color that has not been dyed, and at the same time, it is colored in a different color (red) from the ground to produce a small warp.
常法により染着処理を施す。Dyeing treatment is performed using a conventional method.
これと全く同様にして小緋縞糸を製作し、常法により染
着処理を施す。A small scarlet striped thread is produced in exactly the same manner, and dyed using a conventional method.
この小緋経糸と4・餅緯糸と−諸に総梁した地経緯糸と
を使用して黒色地に赤色の細かい緋だけの集合で花模様
イを表現せしめた織模様織物を製織する。Using these small scarlet warp threads, 4. Mochi weft threads, and the ground warp threads that are all beamed, a woven patterned fabric is woven that expresses a flower pattern I by a collection of fine red scarlet threads on a black background.
図面のものでは全く同様な技法で芯部を別色(ピンク)
にした芯模様口を表現した場合を図示し、符号1‘ま小
餅染部、2は抜着捺染部である。In the drawing, the core is made in a different color (pink) using the same technique.
The figure shows a case in which a core pattern opening is expressed, and numeral 1' is a small mochi dyeing section, and 2 is a pick-up printing section.
第1図は縦模様織物の一部の正面図、第2図は総染した
糸、第3図は小緋染した糸、第4図は抜着捺染した糸で
ある。
久/燐
力z数
女a傷
次4髪教Figure 1 is a front view of a part of a vertically patterned fabric, Figure 2 is a fully dyed yarn, Figure 3 is a small scarlet dyed yarn, and Figure 4 is a discharge printed yarn. Kyu/Rinriki Z Kazujo A Kazuji 4 Hair Teaching
Claims (1)
糸のうち絣模様をつける経糸を捺染台上に整経し、この
整経経糸上に絣型紙を当て、後記の抜染工程で抜色され
ない地と同色の染料を使用して小絣染を行い、この小絣
染の上に模様型紙を当て、地と異色の抜着染料を使用し
て抜着捺染を行つて所望模様の範囲で不抜地色間を着色
した小絣経糸を製作し、この小絣経糸の製作と同様な技
法で小絣緯糸を製作し、この小絣経糸と小絣緯糸と一緒
に綛染した地経緯糸とを使用して濃色地に異色小絣によ
る絣模様を表現せしめたことを特徴とする絣模様織物の
製造法。1 Among the warp threads dyed on the desired dark color background using the dye to be extracted, the warp threads to be patterned with a splashed pattern are warped on a printing table, a Kasuri pattern paper is placed on the warp threads, and the discharge printing process described later is carried out. Perform small kasuri dyeing using a dye of the same color as the ground that will not be removed, place a pattern paper on top of this small kasuri dyeing, perform extraction printing using a different color extraction dye from the background, and create the desired pattern. A small kasted warp was produced with colored spaces between the unbleached ground colors within the range of , and a kasuri weft was produced using the same technique as the kasuri warp, and the kasuri warp and the kasuri weft were skein-dyed together. A method for manufacturing a kasuri-patterned fabric, characterized in that a kasuri-patterned fabric is expressed by using small kasuri patterns of different colors on a dark-colored background using ground warp and warp threads.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP54088624A JPS6024873B2 (en) | 1979-07-12 | 1979-07-12 | Manufacturing method of Kasuri pattern fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP54088624A JPS6024873B2 (en) | 1979-07-12 | 1979-07-12 | Manufacturing method of Kasuri pattern fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPS5615484A JPS5615484A (en) | 1981-02-14 |
| JPS6024873B2 true JPS6024873B2 (en) | 1985-06-14 |
Family
ID=13947954
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP54088624A Expired JPS6024873B2 (en) | 1979-07-12 | 1979-07-12 | Manufacturing method of Kasuri pattern fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS6024873B2 (en) |
-
1979
- 1979-07-12 JP JP54088624A patent/JPS6024873B2/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS5615484A (en) | 1981-02-14 |
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