JPS602761A - Production of fabric for expanded part brassier - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for producing fabric for the bulge of a brassiere, and more particularly to a method for producing a fabric for the bulge of a brassiere, which includes a scallop having a picot.

BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, a bulging portion of a brassiere for holding a breast is formed using a fabric that is bulged by seamless processing. By the way, this seamless processing is a method of forming a bowl-shaped bulge in the fabric by stretching the fabric itself using a molding process. When forming a bulge, it is advantageous in that the seams do not appear in the bulge as would be the case when fabric is sewn together to form a bulge.

Conventionally, in order to mold the lace fabric used as the outer material for the bulging part of this type of bra, a bowl-shaped convex part of a shape corresponding to the bulging part of the brassiere to be manufactured is formed on the bottom surface. The lace fabric is placed between the upper mold and the lower mold, which has a recess on the upper surface into which the convex part fits, and the upper mold and the lower mold are energized by heating elements disposed inside them. The lace fabric is held at a predetermined temperature, and the upper and lower molds sandwich the lace fabric while heating it and elongating the area, thereby thermoforming the lace fabric into a bowl-shaped bulge that corresponds to the protrusion of the upper die. This is how the lace fabric is bulged.

Thereafter, the bowl-shaped bulge is cut into appropriate pieces and used as outer fabric for the bulge of a brassiere, but this lace fabric is not provided with scallops having picots at its edges.

Therefore, in order to place a protruding scallop with a picot on the edge of the bulge of a brassiere formed by seamless processing, it is necessary to sew a narrow lace fabric with a scallop with a picot separately from the base material. I had no choice but to wear it.

However, this method requires a lot of work to sew the narrow lace fabric, which increases the cost of the bra. The edges were thicker than the other parts, which was not desirable in terms of design.

This invention was made with the aim of solving the above-mentioned drawbacks.The edge of the bulging fabric itself is provided with a scallop having a picot, and this fabric is used to form the bulging part of a brassiere. To provide a method for manufacturing a fabric for a bulge of a brassiere, which allows a brassiere to be provided with a scallop having a picot at the edge of the bulge by forming the fabric.

In order to manufacture a fabric like the one in item 2, a number of lace fabrics are knitted together in tandem, and the edges of each lace fabric are knitted with scallops having picots, and Adjacent lace fabrics are knitted so that they can be separated from other lace fabrics at the picot portion, and then the lace fabric is molded so that the picot portion is located at the edge of the bulge of the bra to be manufactured. Then, one lace fabric is separated from the other lace fabric, and of both lace fabrics, one of the lace fabrics with a sharp scalar knob appearing on the edge is used as fabric for the bulge of the bra. I can't think of a way to do that.

In the above case, as a means of separating adjacent lace fabrics at the picot part, a thread that is weaker in strength than the threads in other parts is used at the boundary between the edges of the two lace fabrics. After knitting, the lace fabrics on both sides are separated by pulling them apart from each other and tearing the threads at the boundary, or by unraveling the threads at the boundary between the edges of the two lace fabrics. One possible method is to remove the sutures to separate them.

However, in the above case, if the boundary threads are simply knitted along the stitch rows of the lace fabric, when the lace fabric is stretched during the subsequent molding process, a tensile force will be applied to the stretched portion. As a result, there is a risk that the threads at the boundary may be cut and twisted during the molding process. If the border thread is cut during processing, tears will occur in the lace fabric, and the fabric in the vicinity will not stretch sufficiently.
An imbalance will occur between the elongated parts, and therefore, when one lace fabric is separated from its edges after molding, the scallops that have protruded out will appear beautifully on the edge of the lace fabric. It is something that cannot be released.

Because it is not a scale and is cut at the border thread, when cutting or removing the border thread, the work is interrupted at tlli points, and one separation work is performed along the border thread. This means that it cannot be done continuously.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted various studies to solve the above problems, and as a result, the adjacent edges of two lace fabrics are formed into an atlas knitting structure, and the yarns at the boundary between the edges are We have discovered that the above-mentioned drawbacks can be overcome by knitting along the atlas knitting structure on both sides.

Embodiments of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings.

First, a material fabric (1) formed as follows is used. In other words, the fabric part opening C and the fabric part (10') are integrally warp-knitted so that they are alternately arranged vertically, and the adjacent edges of each fabric part (llll+ +10') +Ill (11
In the knitting part molecule I+ (I') which is
21) (122) (123) (124) (125) and each warp (12'l) + 12'2) (12'3) + 12
'4) (12'5) A staggered atlas knitting structure is created by sequentially moving to the adjacent stitch row (b) W on the right every few courses, and repeating the knitting process in which the knitting goes backwards in unison the same number of times each time. At the same time, at the boundary between the edges (111 (ll')), another warp (13) is knitted along the atlas knitting structure.And each fabric part QQ) (10')
In the knitting part (Ill ([1')), each warp (1
4)...and each warp (14')...
· is knitted along the stitch row W to form a chain stitch. +151 +15') is each fabric part opening 01
(10') is an insertion yarn that connects adjacent stitch rows (B) 6M in knitting part 'Ill (II'), and after several courses of insertion knitting are performed along one stitch row W, the next stitch row W , the stitch row W is knitted with the same number of courses inserted as above, and then the knitting is repeated by returning to the original stitch DA Jt1M and knitting the same number of courses inserted as above in that stitch row IJNM. (In the organization charts shown in Figures 8 to 10, at the overlapped parts of the knitting part Il and the knitting part (B), the warp thread Q41 (14') and the insertion thread (151 (
15') is omitted). Although not shown, in the knitted portion (■) of at least one fabric portion 00), a watermark pattern is formed by appropriately knitting and twisting the pattern yarn in the stitch row (6).

(16) is a picot forming yarn, and warp (121) and warp (122) at the edge (111) of one fabric part 001
), the edge (11)
At the same time, it reciprocates between the warp threads (13) at the boundary at predetermined intervals in the warp direction, and the folded part (a) I at the boundary.
In this case, insertion knitting is performed so as to be fixed by the warp (13). 071 is a soluble warp arranged between the warp +121) and the boundary warp (13), and is knitted between the warp (121) and the warp (13). 16) is fixed between the folded part (a) and the knitted part (b) for the edge 011. 08) is inserted and knitted so as to reciprocate in a zig-sag pattern between two stitch rows W (b) along the pattern threads (122) and warp threads (125). (19) is a reinforcing yarn and the stitch row is along the warp (122)! In addition to being inserted into the IM, at the point where it goes back and forth between the picot forming system (16) and the boundary warp (13), it is inserted so that it goes back and forth between the warp (121) adjacent to the left.

This serves to reinforce the edge of the picot-forming yarn (161) (the knitted area (b) relative to 111) and to create a pattern effect.

t21+ is the boundary warp (13) and the other fabric part (10'
) is a connecting yarn that connects the warps (14') of the knitted part (■'), and is inserted and knitted so as to reciprocate in a zigzag pattern between the stitch rows Nvl (tv) at both ends.

The material fabric (1) is formed as described above, or each group except the boundary warp (13) and the soluble warp (lη).

Typically, nylon or polyester threads (filament or textured threads) are used. And the boundary warp 03
) has a strength that is weaker than each of the above groups, or has a strength that is not easily cut or broken by the magnitude of the tensile force that acts on the warp (I3) in the scouring and dyeing process and mold forming process that will be described later. thread is used. As a result of various experiments conducted by the present inventors, it has been found that among the threads and L that satisfy these conditions, acetate threads or cotton threads are suitable. In particular, the strength of acetate yarn decreases when it is heated, so while it is easier to cut in the separation process described below, there is a risk of it being broken during the scouring and dyeing process and the molding process. Therefore, it has conventionally been thought that it is not appropriate to use it for fabrics subjected to the above-mentioned seamless process. In order to overcome the above-mentioned difficulties, the present inventors formed the two fabric parts (1 (11flO') in the adjacent edge I11 (11・Flea Atlas knitting structure) as described above, and also formed the above-mentioned edge +Il+ (11') Boundary warp (13')
) was solved by knitting along the atlas knitting structure on both sides.

The raw material fabric (1) formed as described above is usually subjected to a scouring dyeing process to dissolve and remove the soluble warp threads 0η before the molding process. In the scouring and dyeing process, the material fabric (1)
is processed without much tension, leaving room for the material fabric (1) to stretch during the mold forming process described later.

After scouring and dyeing, one piece of the material fabric (1) is molded as follows to form a bowl-shaped bulge (2).In other words, the upper die (31) of the mold has a A bowl-shaped protrusion corresponding to the bulge (1o) of the flasher to be manufactured is provided (triple force), and a heating element (not shown) that generates heat when energized is arranged inside the upper mold (31). However, when a recess (37) into which the above-mentioned convex part (32) is inserted is provided on the upper surface of the lower mold (361) of the rolling mold.

A heating element (not shown) similar to that built into the upper mold (3I) is installed inside the lower mold (36), and each heating element is energized to connect the upper mold (3I) and the lower mold. Both molds (3G) are heated to a predetermined temperature (around 200°C). Then, move the raw material (11) to the boundary between the two fabric parts 101 (10') or the lower mold (36) so that it crosses the recess (3η) of the lower mold (36).
) (Fig. 2), and place the raw material (1
) around the lower mold (36) using a frame (not shown) to prevent it from sagging on the upper surface of the raw material (1) or the lower mold (36), and in this state, insert the upper mold (31). Gradually lower the material fabric f1+ at the convex part (321) to lower mold (36j
Press down to within the range of . By doing this, the material fabric (1
) will gradually expand at the pressed F point, and a tensile force will act on the expanded portion. In this case, the material fabric (
In 1), the degree of elongation is greater in the center of the recess ta71, but the two fabric parts (101(
] (1') edge (+u (11') is formed in the atlas knitting structure, and the warp Q3 at the boundary between the edge II+ (11') is knitted along the atlas knitting structure. Therefore, even if a large tensile force is applied, it will be absorbed by the atlas knitting structure, and the above edge f+o
Not only each warp (121) to (125) of (11') and each warp (12'1) to (12'5), but also the boundary warp (13) may be cut during the mold forming process. Never.

At the convex part (321) of the upper mold (31), press the raw material (1) into the lower mold (
After pressing down into the recess (37) of the upper mold (36) (Fig. 4), the material fabric (1) is held between the upper mold (31) and the lower mold (36) for a predetermined period of time, and then the upper mold (31) ) is raised and the material dough (1) is removed from the lower mold (361). By performing the mold forming process on the material dough (1) in this way, the material dough (1) is expanded into a bowl shape. Because it is heat-set to
The material fabric (1) has two fabric parts jlD1 +10')
A bowl-shaped bulge (2) will be formed in the part that was intended to be removed (Fig. 5).

After the molding process, the material fabric (1) has fabric parts U (1) on both sides.
0 apart from each other to separate the boundary warp threads (1
3), and place one dough part plate on the other dough part (1
0'). As a result, each fabric part 00) (10
') has a bowl-shaped bulge (2) or a bisected bulge (2a) (2'a) (Fig. 6).

Therefore, among the two fabric parts uol (10'), the edge (111) exhibits a scallop ts+ due to the atlas knitting structure, and from the scallop (S), the picot forming yarn 06) is folded back. (Picot which appeared because part (A) was released) (one fabric part with Pi +1
The periphery of the 0+ bulge (2a) is cut out to obtain a fabric (3) for the bulge of the bra.

In order to form the bulge part (4o) of the bra using the fabric (3) produced as described above, the picot fPl
It is sufficient to place it on the front side of the bulging part (4o) so that the part thereof is on the upper edge of the bulging part (4o) of the brassiere, and to form it in the same manner as in the conventional method.
A brassiere with a scallop (S) having a picot (Pi) can be obtained without sewing a separate narrow lace fabric to the upper edge of the bra (Fig. 7).

In addition, the above material fabric (for the month, the fabric part opening is 0) and the fabric part (10
') are arranged alternately, so even if the molding process is carried out over any two adjacent fabric part openings 01 (10'), the fabric for the bulge part of the bra will be cut from one of the fabric parts. (
3) can be manufactured.

In the above-mentioned material fabric (1), picot-formed yarn (
Is the distance between the folded part (a) of I6) and the knitting part (b) relative to the edge curve fixed by the soluble warp 117), or is the distance between the folded part (a) and the knitted part (b)? If it is short, the picot (S) protruding from the IS scallop (S)
If the projecting length of P) is shortened, there will be no problem in knitting the material fabric (1) even if the soluble warp (1η) is not fixed.

In addition, in the case of the above embodiment, when molding the raw material fabric (1), the boundary between the two fabric parts (IQI (10') The lower mold (36I
The position of the concave part 0η to be crossed can be determined as appropriate, so that it is suitable for various sizes of the bulge part of the bra to be created (such as half cup or full cup). It is possible to manufacture the fabric (3) for the bulge.

In order to separate one fabric part 00] from the other fabric part (10') after knitting, use a 5° yarn, which is weaker in strength than the other yarns, for the boundary warp (13), and The birthplace of (
It)) (10') are separated from each other by tearing and separating the warp threads 03) at the border by one thread, or by unraveling the warp threads (13) at the border and removing the threads. May be separated. When using such a method, there is no need to use a yarn with weaker strength than the other yarns for the warp (13) at the boundary, and 1 normal filament yarn is used, and soluble yarn is used for the warp on both sides (as described above). In the example, in addition to the warp (171), the warp (12'l) is also made of soluble yarn.

As explained above, in this invention, the material fabric (1
), the adjacent edges Ill (11') of the two fabric parts f101 (10') are warps (121) (
122) (123) (124) + 125) and warp (
12'l)+12'2)(12'3)(j2'4)+1
2'5) is sequentially transferred to the adjacent stitch row NfM, and then the atlas knitting structure is formed by repeating the knitting that goes backwards the same number of times. 13) is knitted and knitted along the atlas knitting structure, and the edge (111) of the one fabric portion (10) has a picot forming system (16) along the warp (121) (122) of the atlas knitting structure ), the picot-forming yarn (16) reciprocates between the warp (13) at the boundary at appropriate intervals in the warp direction, and at the folded part (a) at the boundary, the warp (13) When the material fabric (1) is molded across two fabric parts (10) (10) and that part is formed into a bowl-shaped bulge (2).

Even if a large tensile force is applied to the part spanning the two fabric parts 1101'(10') due to elongation, that force will be absorbed by the atlas knitted structure part of the edge On (11'). This means that not only the warp at the edge U (11') but also the warp (13) at the boundary can be molded without being cut during the molding process.

According to the method of the present invention, one fabric part qO) is separated from the other fabric part (10') by removing the warp threads 03) at the boundary of the material fabric (1) after the molding process. Scallop +51 with beautiful picot fPl
This means that the fabric (3) for the bulge part of a brassiere can be easily produced.

According to the method of the present invention, when the material fabric (1) is molded, the boundary warp (13) is not cut midway, so the boundary warp (13) is removed and one fabric part is i] When separating 0) from the other fabric portion +10'), the process of tearing or removing the warp threads (13) at the boundary that connects from one end of the material fabric (1) to the other end. This makes it possible to efficiently separate the two fabric parts 110) (10') from the boundary.

It goes without saying that the fabric for the bulge part of a brassiere produced by the method of the present invention can be similarly used as fabric for IT protrusion of a plus lip in which a brassiere and a slip are integrated.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 shows an example of the material fabric used in the method of this invention.
A plan view, Fig. 2 is a plan view of the raw material placed on the upper surface of the lower mold for molding, Fig. 3 is a 1.1ili side view of the raw material just before the molding process is performed, and Fig. 4 Figure 5 is a perspective view of the raw material after mold forming, Figure 6 is a perspective view of the raw material after mold forming separated into two parts, and Figure 7 is a perspective view of the raw material after mold forming. The figure is a perspective view of a bra made using one of the two fabric parts, and Figure 8 is a perspective view of a bra made using one of the two fabric parts.
The organization chart of the material fabric shown in the figure, Figure 9 is the organization diagram after the soluble warp threads have been dissolved and removed in the organization chart of Figure 8, and Figure 0 is the organization diagram after the material fabric has been separated into different fabric parts. This is an organizational chart of the fabric department of . (1)...Material fabric, (2)...Bowl-shaped bulge, (
3)...Fabric for the bulge of the bra, (10 (10')
)...Fabric part, l11(11')...Edge of fabric part, (121)(122)(123')+124)(1
25) (12' 1) (12'2) + 1213) (12
'4) (12'5)... Edge warp, C1310. Boundary warp, 06)...Picot forming thread, (a)...
Folded part of bicot forming yarn, (S)...scallop,
fP)...picot, saV)...stitch number 1j0 Patent applicant Takeda Lace Co., Ltd. is a force/1 person j2-'>]i name 2nd name 1933 41st procedural amendment (voice) Showa 58 years 9 years! 6th 1, Display of the case 1988 Patent Application No. 111697 2, Name of Issue 1!11 Method for manufacturing fabric for the bulge of a bra 3, Person making the amendment Relationship to the case Patent applicant Wakaei-cho, Fukui City 601 Representative Takeda Race Co., Ltd. 1) Kotobuki - 4, Agent 8F Barak Building, 2-9 Kawaramachi, Higashi-ku, Osaka 541 (
06-227-5535) Month, Day, Showa Voluntary 6. Number of inventions increased by amendment (1) The scope of claims in the specification will be corrected as shown in the attached sheet. (2) Delete the statement "1 Atlas edition" on page 9, line 11 of the same book. (3) On page 10, line 17 of the same book, insert the statement [with the above-mentioned knitting location (b)] after "at predetermined intervals". (4) In the same book, page 11, line 6, 108), insert the description ``warp thread'' next to ``pattern thread''. (5) “From the scallop (S)” in the same book, page 16, line 8.
is corrected to "for the scallop (S)." (6) In the same book, page 19, line 6, ``same number of times'' is corrected to ``sequentially''. (7) The warp (12+) (12 children) of the same book, same page, line 11
” will be deleted. (8) “The warp of the boundary (13
)...at the folded part (a)" should be corrected as "staggered" so that it stands out from the knitting part (b). ■Page 8, line 15, line 16. Page 09, line 13. ■Page 13, 3 lines, 5 lines. ■Page 15, line 1, line 3, line 4-5. 016 page 7 lines. ■Page 19, line 7, line 9, line 11. 020 Page 2, Claim 1 A method for manufacturing a fabric for a bulging part of a brassiere, which comprises the following steps. (c)) The paulownia fabric (1) has a fabric part (10) and a fabric part (1).
o) are integrally warp-knitted so that they are vertically arranged, and the adjacent edges (
11) (11') is 1 each warp (121X12
2X123X124X125 ) and warp (1i1
) (1-2) (1-3 X12/ 4 X12/ 5)
is formed into a staggered structure by repeating knitting that sequentially moves to adjacent stitch rows (5) and (5) and then sequentially moves backward, and at the boundary between the edge flll+ (11') Another warp (13) is knitted along the staggered structure, and the edge (II) on the one fabric portion side Vr
c, the picono-forming yarns (16) are knitted along the staggered structure, and the picono-forming yarns 06) protrude from the knitting points (b) at regular intervals in the warp direction, and the protruding portions The warp threads at the boundary (13) are fixed, and the material (1) is molded across the two fabric parts + 10) (10), and that part is formed into a bowl-shaped bulge (2).
). (B) The bulge (2) formed in the step (A)
) to separate one fabric part (10) from the other fabric part (10') by removing the warp threads (13) at the boundary of the moon fabric (1). (C) The edge (11) of the two fabric parts 110) (10') separated separately in the step (13)
exhibits a scallop (S) due to the staggered structure, and the scallop (S) [is a pico-soto formed by the release of the protruding part of the pico-soto-forming thread (16)] CP)
A step of using one of the fabric parts (10) having the above as a fabric (3) for the bulging part of a brassiere. , 2 For the boundary warp thread 03), a yarn with lower strength than the other threads is used, and in the step CB), the fabric portions on both sides (10
) (10') apart from each other and tearing off the warp (13) at the boundary, one fabric part (
10) The method for producing a fabric for a bulging part of a brassiere according to claim 1, wherein the fabric part (10) is separated from the other fabric part (10). 3 In the step (B), the boundary warp (13)
2. The method of manufacturing a fabric for a bulging part of a brassiere according to claim 1, wherein one fabric part 00) is separated from the other fabric part (1d) by HFi threading.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A method for producing fabric for IT distribution of brassiere, which comprises the following steps. fA) Material fabric (1) has fabric part t101 and fabric part (1
0') are integrally warp-knitted so that they are vertically arranged, and the two fabric parts [10) (10')f7);
'E adjacent edge fll+ (11') is warp thread (
121M122) (123) (124) (125) and warp (12'1) (12'2) (12'3) (12'
4) f1215) or adjacent stitch rows! The atlas knitting structure is formed by repeating knitting in which the knitting is sequentially transferred to tM NM and then reversed the same number of times, and the edge U (
11'), another warp (13) is knitted along the atlas knitting structure, and at the edge (11) of the one fabric portion U, the warp (13) of the atlas knitting structure
121) The picot-forming thread (16) is knitted along (122), and the picot-forming thread (I6) reciprocates between the warp threads 03) at the boundary at appropriate intervals in the warp direction, and folds back at the boundary. In part (A), the warp threads 03) are fixed, and the material fabric (1) is divided into two fabric parts (10
) (10') and forming that part into a bowl-shaped bulge (2). (Bl The bulge formed in the step TA+ (2
) is removed from the warp (13) at the boundary of the material fabric width to separate one fabric part uO) from the other fabric part +10〆). 1 fcl In the above process (of the two fabric parts 001 (10') separated by Bl, the edge (11) exhibits a scallop (S) due to the atlas knitting structure, and from the scallop (S) The picot [
A process of using one fabric part 00) having Pl as a fabric for the bulge part of a brassiere (3). G) yarn, which is weaker than other yarns, is used for the boundary warp (13), and in the step ([3), the fabric part [0
1 (10') apart from each other and tearing off the warp threads (13) at the boundary, one fabric part (
101 from the other fabric portion (1 (1')). 3. Step B ) by removing the sutures by osteolysis, one fabric part (10)
The method for producing a fabric for a bulge portion of a brassiere according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is separated from the other fabric portion (10').