JPS6152251B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a pongee-like woven and knitted fabric preparation yarn using synthetic fiber filament yarn.

Conventionally, in order to make pongee-like woven and knitted fabrics using knotted threads, it has been considered to use, for example, a composite fancy yarn as described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 35417/1983 as the knotted thread.

However, this type of knotted yarn is created by winding the filaments of the sheath yarn in a concentrated state around the filaments of the core yarn, so that the ground yarn part consists of a single spiral part and the knotted thread part consists of a triple or more spiral part. However, since the knotted yarn part is not untwisted, it has a tight shape and structure, and in the ground yarn part, the winding yarn is not wound neatly around the core yarn.
It has an irregular spiral winding structure.

FIG. 1 is a model diagram schematically showing a conventional fancy yarn, in which the core yarn 2 does not completely cover the area around the core yarn 1 in the ground yarn part.
It is shown that the sheath yarn 2 exhibits a single spiral portion in which it is wound in a helical shape in a bundled state, and a spiral portion in which the sheath threads 2 are wound in three or more layers in a bundled state even at the knotted thread portion.

FIG. 3 is a microscopic photograph showing an example of a knotted part of a conventional composite fancy yarn.

For this reason, woven fabrics constructed using the above-mentioned yarns have a hard texture, and the knotted yarn section consisting of triple or more spiral sections has a tight shape.
Because of this structure, a sagging-like knot effect is imparted to the surface of the fabric.

In general, in fabrics using pongee thread, a natural fiber, the knotted thread part is thin and the fibers are gently twisted and accumulated, forming a soft and swollen knotted part, and the knotted thread part is soft and bulgy. The pongee-like fabric made from Siyaan is insufficient in terms of texture and appearance.

An object of the present invention is to provide a decorative yarn for use in pongee-like woven and knitted fabrics, which improves these conventional drawbacks, provides a good feel, and forms natural-looking knotted sections. That is, the present invention provides a design yarn with a core-sheath structure consisting of at least two types of threads, in which the core yarn is composed of a filament having a single fiber denier of 1 denier or more, and on the other hand, the single fiber denier is less than 1 denier, and The number of constituent pieces N is 1.5×D<N′3×D
(N: number of sheath yarns, D: total denier of core yarn) A multi-filament sheath yarn that satisfies the following is wound in only one direction so as to substantially completely cover the core yarn, and is wrapped around the ground. It forms a yarn part (non-bundled yarn part), and is intermittently wound three times or more in the yarn axis direction to form a knotted part, and some of the single fibers in the knotted part become loops or slacks to form a knotted yarn. It is a craftsmanship yarn prepared for pongee-style woven and knitted fabrics that are characterized by an overhang around the area.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

The design yarn of the present invention is one of the design yarns with a core-sheath structure consisting of at least two types of threads. A filament yarn with a fiber denier of less than 1 denier is used. The type of filament yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is a filament yarn of synthetic fiber such as polyacrylic/polyamide, polyester, etc., but in consideration of the texture of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable to use a filament yarn of polyester.

In the present invention, it is necessary that the single fiber denier of the filament yarn used as the core yarn is 1 denier or more.The reason is that if the filament yarn is less than 1 denier, a yarn with a complete covering structure cannot be obtained. This is because the necessary tension and waist cannot be obtained. Further, when the single fiber denier of the sheath yarn is 1 denier or more, a yarn having a structure as described below cannot be obtained.

As shown in FIG. 2, the design yarn of the present invention has a base yarn portion 3 in which a sheath yarn made of a filament having a single fiber denier of less than 1 denier almost completely covers a filament of a core yarn, and a yarn portion 3. The threads are intermittently wound three times or more in the axial direction to form the knotted thread portion 4, and a portion of the single fibers of the knotted thread portion 4 becomes a loop slack 4' and overhangs around the knotted thread portion 4. It forms a structure that FIG. 2 is a model diagram schematically showing the designed thread of the present invention, and FIG. 4 is a microscopic photograph showing an example of the designed thread of the present invention.

Such a yarn structure is only possible when an ultrafine filament yarn with a single fiber denier of less than 1 denier is used as the sheath yarn. Since the rigidity of the sheath yarn is small, the sheath yarn does not form a three-dimensional, concentrated form when wound. Moreover, since the number N of the sheath yarns satisfies the above formula, the core yarn is wrapped around the core yarn. The yarn is wound in only one direction so as to completely cover the yarn to form a neatly wound ground yarn portion (indicated by 3 in FIG. 2). Therefore, the filament yarn supplied as the sheath yarn is untwisted or 100%
It is desirable that there is no twist of twists/m or less,
In order to completely cover the core yarn, the following relationship with the total denier of the filament yarn serving as the core yarn must be established.

1.5×D<N<3×D N: Constituent number of sheath threads D: Total denier of core thread On the other hand, at the knotted thread part, the sheath threads are wound three times or more, but the rigidity is small;
The inability of the sheath yarns to form a three-dimensionally bundled form during winding deteriorates the entanglement of the sheath yarn single fibers.
It becomes a loop/sag and protrudes around the section of the knotted thread.

Design threads having such a form and structure can be made, for example, by the following method. That is, the fifth
In the figure, the core yarn 5 wound around the bobbin 5' is
Feed rollers 7, 7' feed the false twisting area, while the sheath yarn 6 wound on the bobbin 6' is fed to the false twisting area by feed rollers 8, 8'. be done. The core yarn 5 and sheath yarn 6 supplied to the false twisting area are false twisted by the false twisting means 11, and then wound onto a winding bobbin 13 via tension rollers 12, 12'. 9 is
The supply guide 10 for the sheath yarn 6 represents a heating heater. (Figure 5 shows 1 of the method for obtaining the design yarn of the present invention.
It is a process chart which shows an example. ) The sheath yarn 6 has a larger supply amount than the core yarn 5 and has a supply amount of 60~
Supplied with 150% overfeed. The feeding angle of the sheath thread 6 is preferably 90° or less than 90°, and the feeding guide 9 is desirably placed at least 20 cm away from the core thread 5. The effect of covering the thread 5 is promoted.
That is, since the sheath yarn 6 is made of filaments whose single fiber denier is less than 1 denier and whose number N satisfies 1.5D<N<3×D, the filaments are not bundled and are formed into a core. A wrapped base yarn portion is formed around the yarn 5. Also, the pongee thread 6 is 60
% or more, the core-sheath yarn 5 is traversed intermittently in the yarn axis direction to form a knotted yarn portion having a triple or more winding structure. In forming this section, since the filament denier is a single fiber or less than 1 denier, its rigidity is low, and when winding, the bundle of the sheath yarns 6 is disturbed, and the filaments constituting some of the sheath yarns become loops. As already mentioned, the threads become slack and protrude around the knotted threads. It is preferable to supply the sheath yarn 6 with an overfeed amount of 150% or less. If the sheath yarn 6 is supplied with an overfeed amount of more than 150%, the rigidity of the sheath yarn 6 is small, so a triple or more winding structure is required. Therefore, a good knotted part cannot be formed.

As described above, the designed yarn of the present invention has a sheath yarn made of filaments with a single fiber denier of less than 1 denier that completely covers the core yarn made of filaments with a single fiber denier of 1 denier or more. The threads are wrapped around each other to form a ground yarn part, and are also wound intermittently three times or more in the yarn axis direction to form a knotted thread part, and some of the single fibers in the knotted thread part become loops or slacks to form a knotted thread part. Since it protrudes around the area, woven and knitted fabrics using this thread are
It gives a soft feel and has an appearance and feel very similar to natural pongee, with the knotted threads being soft and bulging.

In addition, when the above-mentioned woven or knitted fabric is made of polyester filament yarn, it is possible to reduce the weight of the wound yarn using fine denier filament yarn by a larger amount through alkali weight loss treatment during the dyeing and finishing process. Therefore, in combination with the use of a fine denier, it is possible to obtain a fabric that is extremely flexible and soft to the touch.

The present invention will be explained below with reference to Examples.

Example Polyester filament yarn (50
denier/24 filament), and the same polyester ultra-fine filament (64
denier/144 filament), and while overfeeding the sheath yarn at 120%, it is fed to the process shown in Figure 5 and false twisted at the same time.
Obtained craft yarn for pongee-style woven and knitted fabrics. Using this thread,
A woven fabric having a plain weave structure with a warp density of 24 threads/cm and a weft density of 23 threads/cm was prepared and was treated with 35 g of caustic soda at a temperature of 97° C. for 30 minutes to reduce weight. The obtained woven fabric had a soft ground yarn part and a soft and swollen knotted yarn part, and was similar to a natural pongee.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a model diagram schematically showing a conventional composite fancy yarn, Fig. 2 is a model diagram schematically showing the design yarn of the present invention, and Fig. 3 is a model diagram schematically showing a conventional composite fancy yarn. FIG. 4 is a microscopic photograph showing an example of a knotted part of an e-yarn, FIG. 4 is a microscopic photograph showing an example of a knotted part of a designed yarn of the present invention, and FIG. It is a process diagram showing one example. 3... Ground yarn part, 4... Knotted thread part, 4'... Loop/sag of settled thread part, 5... Core thread, 6... Sheath thread.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. In a design yarn with a core-sheath structure consisting of at least two types of threads, the core yarn is composed of a filament with a single fiber denier of 1 denier or more, and on the other hand, the single fiber denier is less than 1 denier, and the number of filaments is N. A multi-filament core yarn satisfying 1.5×D<N<3×D (N: number of sheath yarns, D: total denier of the core yarn) is such that it substantially completely covers the core yarn. It is wound only in one direction to form a ground yarn part (unbound yarn part), and is intermittently wound in the yarn axis direction three times or more to form a knotted part, and the single fibers of the knotted yarn part are A craft yarn for pongee-style woven and knitted fabrics that is characterized by a part of it becoming a loop or slack and protruding around the knotted yarn section.