JPS6183367A - Manufacturing method of grained fabric - Google Patents

Manufacturing method of grained fabric

Info

Publication number
JPS6183367A
JPS6183367A JP59200158A JP20015884A JPS6183367A JP S6183367 A JPS6183367 A JP S6183367A JP 59200158 A JP59200158 A JP 59200158A JP 20015884 A JP20015884 A JP 20015884A JP S6183367 A JPS6183367 A JP S6183367A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
long fiber
yarn
acetate
fiber yarn
warp
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP59200158A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
出穂 靖弘
守 宮本
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Mitsubishi Chemical Corp
Original Assignee
Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd filed Critical Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd
Priority to JP59200158A priority Critical patent/JPS6183367A/en
Publication of JPS6183367A publication Critical patent/JPS6183367A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 〔産業上の利用分野〕 本発明はアセテート長繊維糸条な用いたシボ織物の製法
に関するものである。
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a method for producing a textured fabric using acetate long fiber yarns.

〔従来の技術〕[Conventional technology]

一般にレーヨン長繊維糸条を用いたシボ織物の製造にお
けるシボ出しは、温水中で撚を固定している糊の除去と
もみ作用とによって行なわれるが、この場合レーヨン長
繊維糸条が膨潤して解撚(シボ出し)が著しく促進され
るので良好なシボな簡易に発現させることが可能である
Generally, graining in the production of grained fabrics using rayon long fiber yarns is carried out by removing glue that fixes the twist in warm water and kneading, but in this case, the rayon long fiber yarns swell and dissolve. Since twisting (graining) is significantly promoted, it is possible to easily develop a good grain.

しかしながら、その反面強撚糸の燃止めが、生糸の場合
のセリシンの溶解性を利用した蒸熱法や合成繊維糸条の
熱可塑性を利用した乾熱法又は蒸熱法が使用できず、強
撚される糸に予め糊を付け、水で湿しなから強撚加工し
、その後乾燥して糊で撚止めする方法しか使用できない
ので、糊付装置が必要であるとか、撚糸機に糊カスが堆
積したり、糸同志が糊で接着したりして毛羽が発生する
等の問題があった。
However, on the other hand, in order to prevent burning of highly twisted yarn, it is not possible to use the steaming method that utilizes the solubility of sericin in the case of raw silk, or the dry heating method or steaming method that utilizes the thermoplasticity of synthetic fiber yarn, so that highly twisted yarn cannot be used. The only method that can be used is to pre-apply glue to the thread, wet it with water, then strongly twist it, then dry it and fix the twists with glue, which may require a sizing device or cause glue scum to accumulate on the twisting machine. There have been problems such as threads being glued together and fuzzing occurring due to threads being glued together.

又合成長繊維糸条のシボ織物の製造においては、熱可塑
性を利用して製織可能な範囲で、できるだけ低温で撚止
めし、主としてもみ作用でシボ出しするが、レーヨン強
撚糸はどの解撚が行なわれないので均一で良好なシボを
発現させるのが極めて困難であった。
In addition, in the production of textured fabrics using synthetic fiber yarns, the twisting is stopped as low as possible within the weaving range using thermoplasticity, and the texture is mainly created by kneading. Since this is not done, it is extremely difficult to develop uniform and good grain.

しかもポリエステル長繊維糸条の場合は通常80〜90
℃の蒸熱で撚糸用シリンダー等に捲かれた状態で撚止め
するので内外層間で残留熱収縮に差が生じるという問題
もあった。
Moreover, in the case of polyester long fiber yarn, it is usually 80 to 90.
Since the yarn is twisted while being wound around a yarn twisting cylinder or the like using steam heat at a temperature of .degree. C., there is a problem in that there is a difference in residual heat shrinkage between the inner and outer layers.

更にアセテート長繊維糸条の場合は湿潤状態で弾性が失
なわれる性質があるので、65〜75℃の蒸熱で充分撚
止め効果が得られ、且つ撚止め工程で熱収縮しないので
ポリエステル長繊維糸条内外層での残留熱収縮差を生じ
ることばないが、アセテート長繊維糸条の強撚糸の解撚
トルクは極めて小さいのでシボ出し工程を通してもシボ
がほとんど発現しないという問題があった。
Furthermore, in the case of acetate long fiber yarn, it has the property of losing its elasticity in a wet state, so steaming at 65 to 75°C can provide a sufficient twist-stopping effect, and it does not shrink due to heat during the twist-setting process, so polyester long fiber yarn can be used. Although there is no difference in residual heat shrinkage between the inner and outer layers of the yarn, the untwisting torque of the highly twisted yarn of the acetate long fiber yarn is extremely small, so there is a problem in that the grain hardly appears even through the graining process.

〔発明が解決しようとする問題点〕[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

本発明は、かかる従来のシボ織物の製造における問題点
を解消し、アセテート長繊維糸条を用いて極めて優れた
シボ織物を製造し得る方法を提供することにある。
The object of the present invention is to solve the problems in the production of conventional textured fabrics and to provide a method for producing extremely superior textured fabrics using acetate long fiber yarns.

〔問題点を解決するための手段〕[Means for solving problems]

本発明は、アセテート長繊維糸条又はアセテート長繊維
糸条とポリエステル長繊維糸条との複合糸条を強撚加工
し、混熱で撚止めしてなる強撚糸を経糸又は緯糸或いは
経緯両方の糸に用いて製織し、次いで該織物をアセテー
ト長繊維糸条のケン化後又はケン化と同時にシボ出しを
しケン化によりレーヨン化したアセテート長繊維糸条の
膨潤作用でシボの発現を促進せしめることを特徴とする
シボ織物の製法を第1の発明の要旨とし、又アセテート
長繊維糸条とポリエステル長繊維糸条との複合糸条を強
撚加工し、湿熱で撚止めしてなる強撚糸を経糸又は緯糸
或いは経緯両方の糸に用いて製織し、次いで該織物をア
セテート長繊維糸条のケン化後又はケン化と同時にシボ
出しをしケン化によりレーヨン化したアセテート長繊維
糸条の膨潤作用によりシボの発現を促進せしめると共に
アセテート長繊維糸条をアルカリに対して安定化させ、
しかる後ポリエステル長繊維糸条のアルカリ減量処理を
行うことを特徴とするシボ織物の製法を第2の発明の要
旨とするものである。
The present invention is a highly twisted yarn obtained by subjecting acetate long fiber yarn or a composite yarn of acetate long fiber yarn and polyester long fiber yarn to strong twist processing and fixing the twist by mixed heat. The fabric is woven using a yarn, and then the woven fabric is grained after or simultaneously with the saponification of the acetate long fiber yarn, and the appearance of the grain is promoted by the swelling action of the acetate long fiber yarn, which has been turned into rayon by saponification. The gist of the first invention is a method for manufacturing a grained fabric characterized by the above, and a highly twisted yarn obtained by subjecting a composite yarn of acetate long fiber yarn and polyester long fiber yarn to strong twisting and fixing the twist with moist heat. is used for the warp, weft, or both warp and warp yarns, and then the woven fabric is textured after or simultaneously with the saponification of the acetate long fiber yarn, and the acetate long fiber yarn is swollen and made into rayon by saponification. By its action, it promotes the appearance of grain and stabilizes the acetate long fiber yarn against alkali.
The gist of the second invention is a method for producing a grained fabric, which is characterized in that the polyester long fiber yarn is then subjected to alkali weight loss treatment.

本発明を更に詳細に説明すると、本発明で使用するアセ
テート長繊維糸条としてはジアセテート又はトリアセテ
ートのいずれの長繊維糸条であってもよく、又ポリエス
テル長繊維糸条も特に制限はないが、繰返し単位の少な
くとも80モル%がエチレンテレフタレートで、共重合
成分としてスルホイソフタル酸、インフタル酸。
To explain the present invention in more detail, the acetate long fiber yarn used in the present invention may be either diacetate or triacetate long fiber yarn, and the polyester long fiber yarn is not particularly limited. , at least 80 mol% of the repeating units are ethylene terephthalate, and copolymerization components include sulfoisophthalic acid and inphthalic acid.

ナフタリン−2,6−ジカルボン酸、セバシン酸。Naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid.

アジピン酸、p−オキシ安息香酸、p−β−オキシエト
キシ安息香酸、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、1,4−
ブタンジオール、ジエチレングリコール、ネオペンチル
グリコール、ペンタエリスリトール及びエチレングリコ
ール等を用いた常圧可染性ポリエステル長繊維糸条が好
適に使用される。
Adipic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, p-β-oxyethoxybenzoic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-
Atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester long fiber yarn using butanediol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, ethylene glycol, etc. is preferably used.

又アセテート長繊維糸条のケン化は好ましくはナトリウ
ム、カリウム、マグネシウム、バリウム等の金属炭酸塩
の水溶液で行ない、第2の発明におけ、るポリエステル
長繊維糸条のアルカリ減量処理は好ましくはナトリウム
、カリウム。
Further, saponification of the acetate long fiber yarn is preferably carried out with an aqueous solution of metal carbonate such as sodium, potassium, magnesium, barium, etc., and the alkaline reduction treatment of the polyester long fiber yarn in the second invention is preferably carried out using sodium carbonate. ,potassium.

マグネシウム、バリウム等の金属水酸化物の水溶液で行
なう。
It is carried out using an aqueous solution of metal hydroxide such as magnesium or barium.

尚、アセテート長繊維糸条のケン化の程度は第1の発明
においてはシボ発現の促進効果が得られればよ(、又第
2の発明においてはシボ発現の促進効果が得られると共
にポリエステル長繊維糸条のアルカリ減量処理に際して
安定化されればよいのであって必ずしも完全にケン化し
てしまう必要はない。
In addition, the degree of saponification of the acetate long fiber yarn is determined in the first invention as long as the effect of promoting the appearance of grain is obtained (and in the second invention, the effect of promoting the appearance of grain is obtained and the degree of saponification of the polyester long fiber yarn is determined). It is not necessary to completely saponify the yarn as long as it is stabilized during the alkali weight reduction treatment of the yarn.

〔実施例〕〔Example〕

以下実施例により本発明を更に具体的に説明する。 The present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples below.

実施例1 経糸に共重合成分としてイソフタル酸を使用した常圧可
染性ポリエステル糸75 a/48f。
Example 1 Pressure-dyeable polyester yarn 75a/48f using isophthalic acid as a copolymer component in the warp.

2000T/M(St  z)(so℃の蒸熱で撚止め
)を用い、36本/cIrLの密度でS撚糸、2撚糸を
2本ずつ交互に配し、緯糸には上記ポリエステル糸とジ
アセテート糸55d/16f  との複合糸2000 
T/M (S 、  Z ) (70℃の蒸熱で撚止め
)を用い、22本/aの密度でS撚。
Using 2000T/M (St z) (stopped by steaming at so℃), two S-twisted yarns and two 2-twisted yarns were arranged alternately at a density of 36 yarns/cIrL, and the above polyester yarn and diacetate yarn were used as weft yarns. Composite yarn 2000 with 55d/16f
S twist at a density of 22 threads/a using T/M (S, Z) (stopped by steaming at 70°C).

2撚を2本ずつ交互に配して、平織物を織成した。A plain woven fabric was woven by alternately arranging two strands of two twists.

得られた織物をNa2CO3301/lの水溶液で95
℃×60分処理し、ジアセテート糸を完全ケン化した後
水洗し、次いで常圧ワッシャー型すラクサーを用い、9
5℃X20分温水中で処理してシボ出し後乾燥し、しか
る後分散染料1.5%o、w、fと直接染料0.04%
o、 w、 f及び少量の各種助剤を配合した染色浴で
120℃×30分染色したところ、玉虫調に片染された
良好なシボを有するジョーゼットが得られた。
The obtained fabric was soaked in an aqueous solution of 95% Na2CO3/l.
℃ x 60 minutes to completely saponify the diacetate yarn, wash it with water, and then use a normal pressure washer-type suluxer to
Treated in warm water at 5°C for 20 minutes to remove the grain, then dried, followed by 1.5% o, w, f disperse dyes and 0.04% direct dye.
When dyed at 120° C. for 30 minutes in a dyeing bath containing O, W, F and small amounts of various auxiliary agents, a georgette with an iridescent pattern and a good grain was obtained.

実施例2 シボ出し乾燥工程布は実施例1と同じ条件で処理した織
物をNaOH10j’/13の水溶液で95℃×60分
間処理してポリエステル糸を減量した後、酢酸1ψの水
溶液で60℃×1分間中和処理し、水洗、乾燥後実施例
1と同じ条件で染色したところ、玉虫調に片染され、良
好なシボと優れたドレープ性を有するジョーゼットが得
られた。
Example 2 Textile drying process The fabric was treated under the same conditions as in Example 1, treated with an aqueous solution of NaOH 10j'/13 at 95°C for 60 minutes to reduce the weight of the polyester yarn, and then dried at 60°C with an aqueous solution of acetic acid 1ψ. After being neutralized for 1 minute, washed with water, and dried, it was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. A georgette with an iridescent pattern and good grain and excellent drapeability was obtained.

実施例3 実施例1において、織成後の織物を常圧ワッシャー型す
ラクサーを用い、Na2CO330り力の水溶液で95
℃X60分処理することによりジアセテート糸の完全ケ
ン化とシボ出しとを同時に行なう以外は全て実施例1と
同じ条件で処理したところ、実施例1と同様のジョーゼ
ットが得られた。
Example 3 In Example 1, the fabric after weaving was soaked in an aqueous solution with a strength of 95% Na2CO3 using a normal pressure washer type laxer.
The same conditions as in Example 1 were obtained except that the diacetate yarn was completely saponified and grained at the same time by treatment for 60 minutes at ℃.A georgette similar to Example 1 was obtained.

実施例4 実施例2において、経糸にも緯糸と同じ糸を用い、且つ
経糸密度を42本/clrL、緯糸密度を29本/cI
rLにする以外は全て実施例2と同じ条件で処理したと
ころ、緩かみのあるふっくらしたドレープ性に富んだ高
級ジョーゼットが得られた。
Example 4 In Example 2, the same thread as the weft was used for the warp, and the warp density was 42 threads/clrL and the weft density was 29 threads/cI.
When the treatment was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 2, except that rL was used, a high-quality georgette with loose, plump drape properties was obtained.

〔発明の効果〕〔Effect of the invention〕

上述の如く構成された本発明によれば、アセテート長繊
維糸条を用いて極めて優れたシボ織物が得られるのであ
って、その工業的効果は極めて大である。
According to the present invention configured as described above, an extremely excellent textured fabric can be obtained using acetate long fiber yarn, and its industrial effects are extremely large.

Claims (2)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] (1)アセテート長繊維糸条又はアセテート長繊維糸条
とポリエステル長繊維糸条との複合糸条を強撚加工し湿
熱で撚止めしてなる強撚糸を経糸又は緯糸或いは経緯糸
の両方に用いて製織し、次いで該織物をアセテート長繊
維糸条のケン化後又はケン化と同時にシボ出しをしケン
化によりレーヨン化したアセテート長繊維糸条の膨潤作
用でシボの発現を促進せしめることを特徴とするシボ織
物の製法。
(1) Highly twisted yarn made by strongly twisting acetate long fiber yarn or a composite yarn of acetate long fiber yarn and polyester long fiber yarn and fixing the twist with moist heat is used for both the warp, weft, or warp. The method is characterized in that the woven fabric is textured after or simultaneously with the saponification of the acetate long fiber yarns, and the appearance of the grains is promoted by the swelling action of the acetate long fiber yarns that have been made into rayon by saponification. A manufacturing method for grained textiles.
(2)アセテート長繊維糸条とポリエステル長繊維糸条
との複合糸条を強撚加工し湿熱で撚止めしてなる強撚糸
を経糸又は緯糸或いは経緯糸の両方に用いて製織し、次
いで該織物をアセテート長繊維糸条のケン化後又はケン
化と同時にシボ出しをしレーヨン化したアセテート長繊
維糸条の膨潤作用によりシボの発現を促進せしめると共
にアセテート長繊維糸条をアルカリに対して安定化させ
、しかる後ポリエステル長繊維糸条のアルカリ減量処理
を行うことを特徴とするシボ織物の製法。
(2) Weave a composite yarn of acetate long fiber yarn and polyester long fiber yarn by strongly twisting and fixing the twist with moist heat, using the highly twisted yarn as the warp or weft or warp and warp, and then Textiles are textured after or simultaneously with saponification of the acetate long fiber yarns, and the swelling action of the rayonized acetate long fiber yarns promotes the appearance of grains, and the acetate long fiber yarns are stabilized against alkalis. 1. A method for producing a grained fabric, which comprises subjecting the polyester long fiber yarn to alkali weight reduction treatment.
JP59200158A 1984-09-25 1984-09-25 Manufacturing method of grained fabric Pending JPS6183367A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP59200158A JPS6183367A (en) 1984-09-25 1984-09-25 Manufacturing method of grained fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP59200158A JPS6183367A (en) 1984-09-25 1984-09-25 Manufacturing method of grained fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS6183367A true JPS6183367A (en) 1986-04-26

Family

ID=16419751

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP59200158A Pending JPS6183367A (en) 1984-09-25 1984-09-25 Manufacturing method of grained fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS6183367A (en)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS517298A (en) * 1974-07-09 1976-01-21 Santo Tekkosho Kk
JPS5721569A (en) * 1980-07-12 1982-02-04 Mitsuya Seisen Kk Method and apparatus for processing acetate fabric to enhance strength and feeling thereof
JPS5721566A (en) * 1980-07-15 1982-02-04 Seiren Co Ltd Creping of hard twisted yarn fabric of polyester fiber
JPS5994674A (en) * 1982-11-19 1984-05-31 三菱レイヨン株式会社 Production of acetate crimped yarn

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS517298A (en) * 1974-07-09 1976-01-21 Santo Tekkosho Kk
JPS5721569A (en) * 1980-07-12 1982-02-04 Mitsuya Seisen Kk Method and apparatus for processing acetate fabric to enhance strength and feeling thereof
JPS5721566A (en) * 1980-07-15 1982-02-04 Seiren Co Ltd Creping of hard twisted yarn fabric of polyester fiber
JPS5994674A (en) * 1982-11-19 1984-05-31 三菱レイヨン株式会社 Production of acetate crimped yarn

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