JPS6238455B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a processed yarn having the appearance and feel of spun silk, in which loops and entanglements are formed in multifilament yarn through fluid turbulence treatment. In more detail, the silk yarn exhibits a strong Kasuri-like appearance in which parts with loops and tangles and substantially linear parts without loops and tangles exist irregularly along the length of the multifilament yarn. Regarding textured yarn. Various methods have been attempted in the past, including methods of imparting loops and entanglements to multifilament yarns using fluid turbulence treatment to obtain spun yarn-like bulky yarns, or methods of imparting entanglements between filaments. Thread-like bulky yarn and its manufacturing method are published in Japanese Patent Publications No. 1984-6684 and Publication No. 35-13168.
It has been proposed in the Publication No. This method is called "Taslan" processing, in which a bundle of multifilament yarns is subjected to fluid during fluid turbulence treatment, so that the single filaments constituting the multifilament yarns are placed within the cross section of the fluid path. At the same time, the multifilament yarns are uniformly separated and dispersed from each other, and at the same time, they are moved around rapidly in a limited space to apply random torque, and then the multifilament yarns are rapidly removed from the fluid turbulence area, thereby eliminating numerous loops, sagging, and entanglements. The yarn obtained by this method has an extremely large number of loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle, usually 150 to 300 (co/m) x number of filaments, and is relatively uniform in the yarn length direction. are doing. Therefore, the obtained yarn has a spun yarn-like appearance with great bulk, and does not have a strong shaving-like appearance. Furthermore, since many of the protruding loops are coarse, there is a drawback that the unwinding of the yarn from the package cage is poor, and in high-order processing processes such as weaving and weaving processes, coarse loops may become entangled and cause yarn breakage. The disadvantages include that the loops become entangled with the knitting needles, resulting in extremely poor high-order processability, and that the knitted fabric obtained by knitting and weaving has many coarse loops on the surface, resulting in poor surface quality. The fact that portions with loops and entanglements and portions substantially free of loops and entanglements are made to exist alternately and irregularly along the length of the multifilament yarn is caused by elongation after being subjected to the fluid turbulence treatment as described above. obtained by doing. however,
The yarn obtained through the “Taslan” process has a large number of loops, and many of them are coarse.
In order to reduce the number of loops to less than m) × number of filaments, excessive elongation is required, which has the disadvantage of generating fuzz and easy thread breakage during elongation, and
The number of large loops such as 0.6 mm or more is 30.
(1/m) or less requires greater elongation, which has the drawback of being more prone to fluffing and thread breakage during elongation, and of increasing sagging in areas that are substantially free of entanglements. It is possible to reduce the number of loops by reducing the relaxation rate in fluid turbulence processing, and further to reduce the number of loops to less than 70 (co/m) x number of filaments by performing extension processing, but fluid turbulence processing When the relaxation rate is decreased, the ratio of the large number of loops to the total loops increases.For example, within the range where the yarn can be stably processed without breaking even when stretched, the number of large loops 0.6 mm or more from the fiber bundle surface should be reduced to 30 ( 1.5 mm or more from the surface of the fiber bundle, and the number of sagging protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle is often 5 to 10 (co/m) or more. It has the same disadvantages as the above-mentioned "Taslan" processed yarn in terms of threadability, passability through higher processing steps, and surface quality of woven or knitted fabrics. On the other hand, there is also a method of reducing the number of loops by performing heat treatment after fluid turbulence treatment. However, when heated under tension, thread breakage during elongation is reduced compared to elongation after the fluid turbulence treatment described above.
The number of large loops such as 0.6 mm or more is 30.
It is difficult to reduce the number of protruding bulges of 1.5 mm or more to 1 (k/m) or less, and to reduce the number of protruding bulges of 1.5 mm or more to 1 (k/m) or less, as there is a large amount of sagging in portions that do not substantially have entanglements. For those that have been heat treated in a fixed length or relaxed condition.
The number of large loops such as 0.6 mm or more is 30.
(co/m) or less requires long-term heat treatment. Therefore, the obtained yarn is easy to elongate with respect to elongation, and for example, the elongation at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve is extremely large, exceeding 20%. When passing through a higher-order processing step, yarn elongation occurs, causing tension fluctuations, and even thread breakage, resulting in significantly poor higher-order processability. In addition, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-19307 discloses a yarn in which entangled portions with strong entanglements and non-interlaced portions with asymmetrical spread are alternately present in irregular lengths, and a method for manufacturing the yarn.
This is proposed in Publication No. 52-15646. The yarn has no loops on the surface of the fiber bundle, and although it has strong entanglements, it has an asymmetrical spread in the unentangled portion, making it difficult to unwind from the package cage and in high-performance processes such as weaving and weaving processes. The passability of the next processing step is not always good, and when this yarn is used to make a woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric has a rough texture without bulk, and has the bulkiness required for a silk-spun woven or knitted fabric. , it is not possible to obtain characteristics such as a soft feeling and an elegant glossy feeling. The present invention eliminates the drawbacks of the prior art and creates a spun silk yarn that has a strong shavings-like appearance among spun yarns, which has good unwinding properties of the yarn from the package and has excellent passability through higher-order processing processes such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. It provides processed yarn. That is, the present invention provides a substantially untwisted multifilament yarn in which portions having loops and entanglements and portions substantially having no loops and entanglements are irregularly present in the length direction of the yarn, the filament fibers being Number of loops protruding from the surface of the bundle is 2 to 70
(co/m) x number of filaments, and among the protruding loops, the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle is 0.6 mm or more, and the number is 30 (co/m) or less. At the same time, the length of the portion having substantially no loops or entanglements accounts for more than 20% and less than 90% of the length of the yarn, and furthermore, in the stress-strain curve, This is a silk spun processed yarn with an elongation of 16% or less under a load of 2 g/d. Note that the fiber bundle surface in the present invention refers to a virtual surface excluding loops and sagging. In the loop and sag forming part, all the filaments constituting the yarn are mixed in the cross-sectional direction of the yarn, resulting in indistinct nep or slab-like portions on the surface of the fiber bundle, and the yarn-like yarn is not included in the present invention. do not have. The silk spun processed yarn of the present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to the drawings. 1 and 2 are model diagrams showing the structure of the thread of the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, the filaments of the present invention are mixed with each other, intertwined with each other, and have a large number of micro loops 1 protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle (entangled portion K). ) and a portion that is substantially straight and has no entangled filament yarns and no loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle (non-entangled portion H)
and are present irregularly along the length of the yarn in a substantially untwisted state. The silk spun processed yarn of the present invention needs to be untwisted in order to impart the bulkiness, soft feel, elegant luster, and scraping effect of silk spun yarn.
This effect is particularly noticeable in unentangled areas.
The number of loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle needs to be 2 to 70 (co/m) x number of filaments when measured using the measurement method described below, and is 4 to 50 (co/m) x number of filaments.
Preferably, the number of filaments. Further, the number of loops is preferably in the range of 50 to 2,500 (co/m), and more preferably in the range of 100 to 2,000 (co/m). Distance between the most distant position of the protruding loops from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle (In Fig. 2, the distance from the protruding loop 2 to the most distant position from the fiber bundle surface 3 is shown as M) The number of loops with a diameter of 0.6 mm or more is 30 as measured using the measurement method described later.
(co/m) or less, preferably 20
(co/m) or less. Furthermore, the proportion of the length of the yarn that is substantially straight and has no loops or entanglements and has a length of 10 mm or more (unentangled portion A) is greater than 20% and less than 90%. It is preferably 25 to 85%, more preferably 30 to 80%. In addition, in the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention, the number of intertwined parts is preferably 5 to 50 (co/m), and the strong contrast based on the difference in yarn form and gloss between the intertwined part and the non-entangled part. Therefore, it exhibits a strong scratch-like appearance. Note that "substantially straight" means that the filaments constituting the multifilament yarn look like straight monofilaments without opening or forming slack. In the linear unentangled portion, each filament is preferably linear, but is not limited to this, and may also have fine crimps. The number of loops protruding from the fiber bundle surface is 2 (co/
If the number is less than m) x number of filaments, the number of loops in the intertwined portions is too small, resulting in a poor textured appearance, and in the case of woven or knitted fabrics, the fabric has a slimy feel and has a poor so-called paper-like feel. 70 loops
(co/m) x the number of filaments, the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the processed yarn will have a high bulkiness and a spun yarn-like appearance and feel. The fabric is thick and fluffy, and unlike silk-spun fabrics, it has a lower texture and quality. The number of loops where the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle and the fiber bundle surface is 0.6 mm or more is 30 (co/
m) If the amount is higher, the unwinding property of the yarn from the package will deteriorate, and at the same time, large loops will become noticeable on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the processed yarn, resulting in a decrease in the surface quality of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, if the proportion of the unentangled part A in the length of the yarn is less than 20%, the proportion of the highly glossy part in the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the yarn will be too small, and the contrast with the interlaced part will be too low, resulting in a strong dull tone. It no longer looks like this. If the proportion of the non-entangled portion A in the length direction of the yarn is greater than 90%, the proportion of the interlaced portion with weak luster will be too small, and the contrast between form and gloss will be too low, resulting in a scratch-like appearance. Furthermore, the processed yarn obtained in the present invention must have an elongation of 16% or less at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve, preferably 12% or less. 2
If the elongation under g/d load exceeds 16%, yarn elongation occurs due to the various tensions applied to the yarn when it passes through various processes when the processed yarn is subjected to higher processing such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. It has the disadvantage that it causes tension fluctuations in various knitting and weaving processes, and also causes yarn breakage, resulting in extremely poor high-order processability. The number of protruding sagging in filaments and filament groups where the distance L between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface is 1.5 mm or more shall be 1 (co/m) or less as measured by the measurement method described below. is preferably 0.7 (co/m) or less, and more preferably 0.7 (co/m) or less. The number of protruding sag of 1.5mm or more is 1
If the amount is more than (1/m), the unwinding property of the yarn from the package cage deteriorates, and at the same time, high-order processability such as weaving, knitting and weaving tends to deteriorate. The silk spun yarn of the present invention can be produced by the following method. That is, a substantially untwisted multifilament yarn is supplied to a fluid turbulence region where a fluid with a fluid pressure of 3.0 kg/cm ² (G) or more is ejected at a relaxation rate of 10% or more and 30% or less to create loops and entanglements. When generating the fluid, in the fluid turbulence area, fluid is injected onto a plane that forms part of the yarn path and is opposite to the direction of injecting the fluid into the fluid turbulence area, and the multifilament yarn is pressed against the plane. The fibers are opened and vibrated to generate take-out loops and entanglements in a direction that quickly injects fluid from the fluid turbulence area, and is then subjected to elongation processing. DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The method for producing silk spun yarn of the present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 3 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention. The process will be explained. First, the multifilament undrawn yarn 10 is drawn by a supply roller 11, a drawing pin 12, and a drawing roller 13. The supply roller 11 preferably has a rubber surface that nips the supply roller. Next, the drawn yarn is supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle 15 in an oversupply state by giving a difference in peripheral speed between the drawing roller 13 and the roller 14, and in this nozzle, the yarn is subjected to the turbulent flow of the fluid and becomes a fiber bundle. Each filament that makes up the filament is spread apart along a plane opposite to the fluid jetting direction, vibrates and migrates randomly, and is then jetted outside the nozzle in the direction of jetting the fluid from the fluid turbulence area. Immediately remove and form loops and tangles. Note that it is preferable to provide a collision body, particularly a collision plate 16, on the nozzle exit side of the fluid turbulence nozzle, since this has the effect of reducing the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more. roller 14
The yarn that comes out is stretched between rollers 17 and then wound up by a winding device 18. Roller 14 and roller 1
It is preferable that the heating element 19 is used in conjunction with the heating element 19 during step 7 to elongate the yarn while heating it, as the yarn is thermally contracted and the coarse loops generated in the fluid turbulence area are thermally contracted to become preferable minute loops and the entanglement strength is improved. In the method for producing silk spun processed yarn of the present invention, the treatment with the fluid turbulence nozzle 15 must be performed in an oversupply state, and the relaxation rate must be in the range of 10% or more and 30% or less. Yes, 12% or more
It is preferably 28% or less. Further, the pressure of the fluid supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle must be 3.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or higher, and preferably 4.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or higher. If the relaxation rate is less than 10%, the number of loops is less than 2 (co/m) x number of filaments, and the number of loops larger than 0.6 mm is 30.
(1/m), and furthermore, the number of protruding sag of 1.5 mm or more may be greater than 1 (/m). Stress when the relaxation rate exceeds 30%
The elongation at a load of 2 g/d in the strain curve is greater than 16%, the number of loops is greater than 70 (co/m) x the number of filaments, and the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more is greater than 30 (co/m). There may be cases where this occurs.
If the pressure of the fluid is lower than 3.0 Kg/cm ² (G), the number of protruding sag of 1.5 mm or more tends to be more than 1 (co/m), and furthermore, there is a drawback that the entanglement strength becomes weak. The amount of fluid supplied to the fluid turbulence area is expressed as {denier (D) of supplied yarn} x {fluid flow rate required to process 1 kg of yarn (Nm ³ /Kg)} from 600 to
It is preferable that it is 2000 (D・Nm ³ /Kg),
More preferably, it is 900 to 1800 (D·Nm ³ /Kg). This value is about 1/5 to 1/2 of that normally used in "Taslan" processing, indicating that processing can be performed with an extremely small amount of fluid consumption. The fluid turbulence nozzle used in the present invention has a plane that forms a part of the yarn passage and faces the direction in which the fluid is jetted, and presses the multifilament yarn against the plane by jetting the fluid. It has a mechanism that spreads each filament constituting the multifilament yarn separately, vibrates it, and randomly migrates it along the line, and has a mechanism and structure that jets the multifilament yarn out of the nozzle by fluid jetting. something is needed. Specific examples will be explained below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 4a is a schematic vertical cross-sectional view of a fluid turbulence nozzle preferably used in the present invention, and FIG.
It is a schematic diagram of the xY cross section in figure a. The nozzle is composed of two parts, a housing 21 and a piece 22, and by tightly fixing the housing 21 and the piece 22, a plane 2 facing the fluid jetting direction forms a thread passage 23 and a part of the thread passage 23.
4. The housing 21 has a fluid introduction hole 25, a fluid injection hole 26, and a thread passage groove forming a thread passage, and the piece 22 is a plate-shaped piece with a smooth plane to form one plane 24 of the thread passage 23. It is the body. In Fig. 4, a recess is provided in the housing to form a thread passage.
A thread passage may be formed by providing a recess in the piece or in both the housing and the piece.
The fluid injection hole 26 is required to have the function of imparting entanglement to the yarn by fluid injection and ejecting the yarn to the outside of the nozzle, so it is bored at an angle α with the yarn passage 23. From the viewpoint of imparting effect and yarn feeding effect, the angle is preferably 30° or more and 70° or less. In the fluid turbulence nozzle, the fluid first enters the fluid introduction hole 25, passes through the fluid injection hole 26, and is injected into the yarn passage 23. Here, it collides with the multifilament yarn supplied from the entrance of the yarn passage 23, and while pressing the multifilament yarn against a plane 24 facing the fluid jetting direction, each filament constituting the multifilament yarn is spread apart and vibrated. While randomly migrating, the yarn is ejected outside the nozzle by the yarn feeding effect caused by the ejection angle α of the fluid ejection hole 26. In conventional Taslan processing, in the fluid turbulent region, each filament that makes up the multifilament yarn is separated and dispersed within the cross section of the fluid passage, and is moved around rapidly to apply random torque to generate loops and entanglements. Since the movement of the filament within the fluid passage is large, the size of the loop has to be large. On the other hand, in the present invention, in the fluid turbulence area, the multifilament yarn is pressed against a plane facing the fluid jet direction, and each filament is opened separately, vibrated, and randomly migrated to generate loops and entanglements. Since the filament moves only in a space very close to one plane within the fluid passage and is small, it has the characteristic that the size of the loop is small. When feeding the multifilament yarn to the fluid turbulence area in the fluid turbulence nozzle, it is possible to feed the yarn at a feeding angle θ of 30° to 100°, as shown in FIG.
This is preferable in that it forms a fulcrum 27 when the filament is opened, vibrated, and migrated, thereby enhancing the entangling effect. More preferably, the yarn feeding angle θ is 45° to 90°. If moisture is added to the multifilament yarn to moisten it before supplying the multifilament yarn to a fluid turbulence area, loops and entanglements will occur uniformly in the length direction of the yarn, and the entanglement strength will tend to become too large, resulting in fluid turbulence. When stretching after treatment, fuzz and thread breakage are likely to occur, and in some cases it is difficult to increase the proportion of unentangled portions A to more than 20% in the stretched yarn, so even if moisture is added, it is 1 c.c. ./min or less is preferable, and it is more preferable not to apply it. In the yarn obtained by performing only the fluid turbulence treatment in the present invention, the proportion of the non-entangled part A in the longitudinal direction is usually 20% or less, and the proportion of the non-entangled part A in the longitudinal direction is larger than 20%. It is necessary to perform an elongation process after a fluid turbulence process. In other words, this is to utilize the characteristic that by elongation processing, loops and tangles formed by fluid turbulence processing disappear in order from weak to weak depending on the degree of elongation, and portions with strong loops and tangles remain. As long as the yarn is substantially stretched under tension during stretching after fluid turbulence treatment, for example, a method of winding the yarn while stretching it after fluid turbulence treatment, a method of separately performing stretching treatment after winding, Any method may be used, such as applying fluid turbulence treatment, elongation treatment, and then winding. After the fluid turbulence process, it is preferable to mechanically determine the elongation rate and perform the elongation process between rollers, etc., as this provides good uniformity in the macro sense in the length direction of the yarn. The elongation rate in the elongation treatment after the fluid turbulence treatment is preferably at least 1%, more preferably 2% or more, and even more preferably 3% or more. The upper limit of the elongation rate corresponds to the relaxation rate in fluid turbulence treatment, and is preferably within 80% of the relaxation rate, more preferably within 70%. The elongation rate when the elongation process is repeated is determined based on the yarn obtained by the fluid turbulence process. It is also possible to carry out elongation treatment using heat treatment after fluid turbulence treatment, and in this case, it is preferable to elongate while heating as shown in FIG. Although there are no particular restrictions on the shape of the heating body used in the heat treatment, it is preferable to run the yarn in contact with the heating body. In this case, a flat hot plate with or without grooves is preferably used, but any shape such as a pin type or saddle type hot plate can be used. The temperature of the heating element should be at least a temperature that can thermally shrink or eliminate coarse loops and sagging generated in the fluid turbulence treatment and improve the strength of the entanglement, and it is sufficient that the temperature of the heating element When the softening point is T _S , it is preferably at least (T _S -110°C) and at most (T _S -30°C). If the heating element temperature is lower than T _S -110°C, thermal shrinkage and elimination effects of coarse loops and sagging occur. When the temperature exceeds T _S -30°C, the texture of woven or knitted fabrics obtained using the processed yarn becomes rough and hard, and the defect of uneven dyeing occurs during the dyeing process. This is because it is easy to occur.If the fineness of the loop is increased by 1.5 times or more when heat-treating and heat-shrinking the loop, the processed yarn will have a rough and hard feel, which is undesirable.The heat treatment time with the heating element is determined by the stress-strain curve. 0.1 seconds or less is preferable from the viewpoint of minimizing the increase in elongation at a load of 2 g/d in
The range is preferably 15% to 15%, more preferably 3% to 13%, and it is preferable that the heat shrinkage rate is substantially uniform in the length direction. Multifilament yarns that can be used in the present invention include regenerated protein, cellulose (rayon),
Cellulose ester multifilament yarn and thermoplastic multifilament yarn, preferably thermoplastic multifilament yarn. Thermoplastic multifilament yarns include polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, and polyvinyl yarns, with polyester and polyamide being particularly preferred. For example, the polyester type uses terephthalic acid as the main dibasic acid, and the glycol uses ethylene glycol or cyclohexanedimethanol as the main glycol, or ethylene oxybenzoate, and various ester-forming compounds. It may be a copolymerized product. Examples of polyamides include polyε-capramide and polyhexamethylene adipamide, and copolymers of various amide-forming compounds can also be used. Further, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, known pigments, antistatic agents, flame retardants,
Modifiers such as dye-seating components may also be included. The cross-section may be round or irregularly shaped, but irregularly shaped, especially trilobal cross-sections are preferred in order to give the appearance of kasuri-like silk spinning. The multifilament yarn supplied to the fluid turbulence region needs to be substantially untwisted because each filament is opened and vibrated separately in the fluid turbulence region, causing random migration. The thermoplastic multifilament yarn used in the present invention has the effect of reducing coarse loop sag, eliminating the effect, and improving the entanglement strength when the yarn has a boiling yield of 5% or more immediately before the heat treatment after the fluid turbulence treatment. It is preferable from the point of view that it can sufficiently exhibit the properties, and 7% or more is more preferable, and 10% or more is even more preferable. In addition, the filaments that make up the multi-filament yarn have a fine denier, and the more filaments there are, the more the entanglement strength is improved, so the filament denier is
It is preferably 3.2 denier or less, more preferably 2.1 denier or less, and the number of filaments is preferably 24 or more. Furthermore, it is also possible to supply mixed fiber yarns having different filament deniers or different heat shrinkage rates, or to feed the yarns in a mixed manner. Also, the total denier of multifilament yarn is 20~
Applicable to 200 denier, 40~150
It can be more preferably applied to denier ones. In addition, as a starting material in the production method of the present invention, the third
As shown in the figure, a multifilament undrawn yarn may be used, but it also includes a case where a drawn yarn is processed as a starting material. As explained above, in the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention, interlaced portions having loops and substantially straight unentangled portions alternate in the length direction of the yarn, so that when made into a woven or knitted fabric, It has excellent softness, flexibility, and drapability, and has a moderate amount of shear and bulkiness.In addition to a deep coloring effect, it also has a strong rasp tone based on the contrast of the shape and gloss difference between interlaced and non-entangled areas. A silk-spun woven or knitted fabric having the appearance of Furthermore, the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention has a sufficient number of loops to exhibit a strong Kasuri texture, and in particular has a small number of large loops, which improves the unwinding of the yarn from the package and the ease of weaving, knitting and weaving. Excellent process passability in high-order processing processes such as Further, in this manufacturing method, it is possible to efficiently manufacture silk-spun processed yarn having stable loops and entangled forms under stable processing conditions. Next, how to measure the number of loops and the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more, how to measure the number of protruding sagging of filaments and filament groups, the length of unentangled part A and the ratio to the length of yarn (unentangled part A ratio) The method for measuring the elongation under a load of 2 g/d, and the method for measuring the relaxation rate during fluid turbulence treatment are shown below. [Method for measuring the number of loops and the number of loops larger than 0.6 mm] Approximately 15 to 20 cm of processed yarn was placed between two transparent flat plates under a tension of 0.1 g/d and magnified 17 times with a magnifying glass. Make a video. In the present invention, in such an image, as shown in the filament of FIG. 2, the distance N between the positions of both loop ends on the fiber bundle surface of the loop 2 protruding from the fiber bundle surface, and the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface. A loop is one in which the ratio N/M of M is 4 or less. Note that an arch is one in which N/M is larger than 4. This operation of reading the number of loops per 10 cm is performed for 10 randomly sampled samples, and this is averaged to determine the number of loops per 1 m. Among the loops, the distance M between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface is measured with a nozzle and similarly read for loops of 0.6 mm or more, and the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more is defined as the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more. [Method for measuring the number of protruding sagging of filaments and filament groups] In the present invention, protruding sagging refers to those that protrude from the fiber bundle surface, that is, the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface in a loop or arch. Refers to items with a diameter of 1.5 mm or more. The number of protruding sag is measured by the following method. Observe 10 m of processed yarn on black paper under a tension of 0.1 g/d while magnifying it from directly above with a magnifying glass.
Use a caliper to read the number of filaments and filament groups where the distance between the farthest point from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface is 1.5 mm or more.However, a filament group is defined as a number of filaments in exactly the same position and the same. Refers to something with an unknown number of filaments. This operation is performed on 10 randomly sampled samples, and the average number of pieces per 1 m is determined. [Method for measuring the length of the unentangled part A and the ratio of the unentangled part A] One processed yarn with a length of about 110 to 120 cm is crimped to one end of a horizontally arranged measuring plate with a length of 1 m. to the thread
Attach a weight calculated to apply a load of 0.01 g/d to the other end, pass the string through the pulley, and hang it freely beyond the edge of the measuring plate. Pass a smooth, pointed pin vertically through the part where the distance between the loops is 10 mm or more according to the scale of the measuring plate, and slowly move it back and forth by hand to find the length l of the part that is substantially straight and has no tangles. Find up to mm. This operation is repeated for all locations where the distance between the loops is 10 mm or more within the sample length of 1 m, and the sum of the lengths of the untangled portions in 1 m of processed yarn is determined. The force applied when passing the pin through the sample thread must be selected so as not to cut or stretch the filament. This operation is performed on 10 randomly sampled samples, and this is averaged to determine the length of the unentangled portion A per 1 m. In addition, the unentangled portion A ratio is determined by the following formula. Non-entangled part A ratio (%) = Sum of lengths of non-entangled part A (mm)/1000 (mm)
×100 [Method for measuring elongation under load of 2 g/d] Using a Tensilon tensile tester, the tensile rate was 10
cm/min, chart speed 20cm/min, sample length 20cm
Under these conditions, draw stress-strain curves for five randomly sampled samples. The elongation of the sample processed yarn under a stress equivalent to 2 g/d is read from the obtained stress-strain curve and averaged to determine the elongation under a load of 2 g/d. [Relaxation rate during fluid turbulence treatment] When the surface speeds of the roller feeding yarn into the fluid turbulence treatment area and the roller taking it out are V ₁ and V ₂ m/min, respectively, Relaxation rate (%) = V ₁ - V ₂ /V ₁ ×100. The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to Examples. Example 1 An undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 (measured in orthochlorophenol at 25° C.), 225 denier, 36 filaments, triangular cross section, and no twist was processed according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. Stretching pin 12 is a 100℃ heat pin, stretching roller 1
3 was stretched at a surface speed of 300 m/min and a stretching ratio of 3.0 times. The fluid turbulence treatment nozzle 15 is shown in Fig. 4a and b.
A collision plate was used in combination with a nozzle having the shape shown in . In the nozzle, the thread passage 23 has a rectangular shape with a width a of 1 mm, a height b of 1.4 mm, and a length of 13 mm.
6 had a diameter of 1 mm, and the injection angle α was 60°. Further, the yarn feeding angle θ was set to 90°. Air pressure supplied to the fluid turbulence treatment nozzle, stretching roller 13 and roller 14
The relaxation rate between rollers 14 and 17 and the elongation rate between rollers 14 and 17 were set to the conditions shown in Table 1. Experiment No.
In Nos. 11 to 13, heat treatment was performed during elongation, and the heating body 19 was a flat hot plate with a weld length of 250 mm, and the heating temperature was 200°C. Immediately before winding, an oil agent containing 90% by weight or more of mineral oil with a viscosity of 70 seconds (30°C) is applied to the processed yarn weight at 0.8% to create a straight-rolled cheese with a winding angle of 15° and a winding width of 150 mm. (2Kg roll). Table 1 also shows the elongation rate during winding, the number of loops of the obtained processed yarn, the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more, the number of protruding sag, the elongation at a load of 2 g/d, and the ratio of unentangled portion A. Furthermore, experiment No. 1,
Examples 4, 10, 13 and 14 are comparative examples for clarifying the effects of the present invention. As is clear from Table 1, in order to stably obtain a good spun processed silk yarn with an emphasized Kasuri tone, which is the objective of the present invention, the relaxation rate needs to be between 10 and 30%, and the relaxation rate must be between 12 and 30%. 28%, and the fluid pressure supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle is 3.0Kg/ ^cm2
(G) or more is required, and 4.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or more is preferable, indicating that elongation processing is necessary. These 14 levels of processed yarns were used as warp and weft yarns to form a plain weave at a weave density of 80 warps/inch and processed using a normal dyeing process for polyester.

[Table] For each processed yarn, 50 cheese rolls of 2 kg each were unwound using a double twister (WT) manufactured by Murata Machinery under the conditions of yarn speed 16 m/min, spindle rotation speed 8000 rpm, and number of twists 500 T/m (Z). Subjected to sex test. Table 1 shows the number of yarn breaks in the unwinding test.
Also listed. Experiment No. 1, which used processed yarn, had poor unwinding properties due to the large number of coarse loops, poor passability through the weaving process, and poor quality of the resulting fabric. experiment
In the processed yarn of No. 4, the yarn spreads in the non-interlaced part and the unraveling property is due to the excessive number of protruding sag.
There was a problem in passing through the weaving process, and the resulting fabric had a strong luster, weak scratchiness, and was thin and lacked bulk and softness. The textured yarn of Experiment No. 10 had a large number of loops, a large number of protruding sag, and a high 2 g/d elongation, so the unwinding and weaving properties were significantly inferior, and the resulting fabric had a texture similar to that of a spun yarn. However, the texture was too emphasized and the texture was inferior, which was completely different from the silk texture that is the object of the present invention. The textured yarns of Experiment Nos. 13 and 14 had too high elongation under a load of 2 g/d, so yarn breakage was noticeable due to large tension fluctuations during unwinding and weaving. All of the processed yarns other than Experiment Nos. 1, 4, 10, 13, and 14 had excellent unwinding properties and passability through the weaving process, and the resulting fabrics exhibited a good, emphasized kasuri-like appearance. It was a fabric with an excellent texture and moderate bulkiness and soft feel. Example 2 A 210 denier 34 filament triangular cross-section, untwisted nylon-6 undrawn yarn was used as the supplied raw yarn and processed according to the conditions of No. 11 of Example 1. Processed yarn: Number of loops: 15 (/m) x number of filaments, number of loops of 0.6 mm or more: 15 (/m), number of protruding sagging: 0.6
(k/m), elongation at 2g/d load 12%, non-entangled part A
The yarn ratio was 33%, which was sufficient to achieve the purpose of the present invention. The obtained processed yarn was used both vertically and horizontally to form a plain weave of 80 yarns/inch in the vertical direction and 70 yarns/inch in the horizontal direction, and was processed using the usual dyeing process for using nylon 6. The obtained fabric had a good silk-like exterior feel and texture, with an accentuated Kasuri tone, deep color, elegant luster, soft feel, and appropriate bulkiness. Comparative Example 1 Using a 225 denier 36 filament untwisted polyethylene terephthalate yarn with a triangular cross section and a "Taslan" nozzle shown in FIG. 4 of U.S. Pat. Processed according to the conditions of No. 6. As shown in Table 2, the properties of the obtained processed yarn are No. 16, the number of loops, especially large loops of 0.6 mm or more, is extremely large, and the number of protruding sag is also large, so the unwinding of the yarn from the package is poor. The passability during the weaving process was also poor. In addition, the obtained fabric has many coarse loops on its surface, lacks luster, has a texture and appearance similar to that of a spun yarn with a bulky and fluffy feel, and has a strong kasuri-like texture, which is the objective of the present invention. The appearance was different from silk spun fabrics and was of inferior quality. Here, processing was performed using heat treatment, which is effective in reducing the number of loops, especially the number of loops larger than 0.6 mm. First, it was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment under the same conditions as in Experiment No. 16, and then subjected to tension heat treatment using a 0.60 m flat hot plate at 200°C at an elongation rate of 6%, and then wound up at an elongation rate of 3%.

[Table] Although the number of loops in the obtained processed yarn (experiment No. 17) falls within the range specified by the present invention, when looking at the shape of the yarn in the non-interlaced part, filaments that are opened and spread out are noticeable. The proportion that is visually defined as unconfounded area A is small. Occurrence of fluff thread breakage was also observed. The number of protruding sag was large, and the unwinding and weaving properties were also poor. Next, it was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment under the same conditions as in Experiment No. 16, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment using a 1.0 m tube heater at 200° C. at a relaxation rate of 1%, and then wound up at an elongation rate of 3%. Although the number of loops in the obtained processed yarn (experiment No. 18) is within the range specified by the present invention, it is 2.
The elongation under g/d load was too high, the number of protruding sag was large, and the tension fluctuated greatly during unwinding and weaving, resulting in poor unwinding and weaving properties. In addition, the boiling yield value of the processed yarn was as low as 0.2%, making it difficult to dye and finish the fabric, and the surface of the fabric had a rough feel, making it impossible to obtain a silk-spun fabric with a good texture and texture. .

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a model diagram showing the shape of the thread of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a model diagram for explaining the shape of the thread of the present invention, and Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a preferred embodiment of the manufacturing method of the present invention. 4A is a schematic sectional view showing an example of a fluid turbulence nozzle that can be preferably used in the present invention, and FIG. 4B is a schematic view showing an XY cross section in FIG. 4A. . FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing the direction in which the thread is supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle and the direction in which it is taken out. 1, 1'...Loop, 2...Protruding filament, 3...Fiber bundle surface, 4...Protruding sag, 10
...Multifilament undrawn yarn, 11... Supply roller, 12... Stretching pin, 13... Stretching roller, 14, 17... Roller, 15... Fluid turbulence nozzle, 16... Collision plate, 18... Winding device, 19
... Heating body, 21 ... Housing, 22 ... Piece, 23 ... Yarn passage, 24 ... Plane facing the fluid injection hole, 25 ... Fluid introduction hole, 26 ... Fluid injection hole, 27 ... Fulcrum .

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A substantially untwisted multifilament yarn in which portions having loops and entanglements and portions substantially having no loops and entanglements are irregularly present in the length direction of the yarn, The number of loops protruding from the surface of the filament fiber bundle is 2 to 70 (co/m) x number of filaments, and the distance between the most distant position of the protruding loops from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle is 0.6. The number of loops that are greater than or equal to mm is 30
(k/m) or less, and in the part having substantially no loops or entanglements, the length of the part having a length of 10 mm or more accounts for more than 20% and less than 90% of the length of the thread. , a silk spun processed yarn further characterized in that the elongation at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve is 16% or less. 2 Filaments with a distance of 1.5 mm or more between the farthest position from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle, and the number of protruding sagging of the filament group is 1 (co/m)
A silk spun processed yarn according to claim 1 which is as follows. 3. The silk spun processed yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the multifilament yarn is polyester. 4. The silk spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the multifilament yarn is polyamide.