JPS6342013B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a processed yarn having the appearance and feel of spun silk, in which loops and entanglements are formed in multifilament yarn through fluid turbulence treatment. In more detail, the silk yarn exhibits a strong Kasuri-like appearance in which parts with loops and tangles and substantially linear parts without loops and tangles exist irregularly along the length of the multifilament yarn. This invention relates to a method for producing textured yarn. Various methods have been attempted in the past, such as methods of imparting loops and entanglements to multifilament yarns using fluid turbulence treatment to obtain sublime yarns similar to spun yarns, or methods of imparting entanglements between filaments. Ito-like sublime threads and their manufacturing method are published in Japanese Patent Publications No. 1984-6684 and Publication No. 35-13168.
It has been proposed in the Publication No. This method is called "Taslan" processing, in which a bundle of multifilament yarns is subjected to fluid during fluid turbulence treatment, so that the single filaments constituting the multifilament yarns are placed within the cross section of the fluid path. At the same time, the multifilament yarns are uniformly separated and dispersed from each other, and at the same time, they are moved around rapidly in a limited space to apply random torque, and then the multifilament yarns are rapidly removed from the fluid turbulence area, thereby eliminating numerous loops, sagging, and entanglements. The yarn obtained by this method has an extremely large number of loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle, usually 150 to 300 (co/m) x number of filaments, and is relatively uniform in the yarn length direction. are doing. Therefore, the yarn obtained has a spun yarn-like appearance with great sublime quality, and does not have a strong smudge-like appearance. Furthermore, since many of the protruding loops are coarse, there is a drawback that the unwinding of the yarn from the package cage is poor, and in high-order processing processes such as weaving and weaving, coarse loops can become entangled and cause yarn breakage. The disadvantages include that the loops get entangled with the knitting needles, resulting in extremely poor high-order processability, and that the knitted fabric obtained by knitting and weaving has a large number of coarse loops on the surface, resulting in poor surface quality. The fact that portions with loops and entanglements and portions substantially free of loops and entanglements are made to exist alternately and irregularly along the length of the multifilament yarn is caused by elongation after being subjected to the fluid turbulence treatment as described above. obtained by doing. however,
The yarn obtained by the “Taslan” process has a large number of loops, especially coarse loops, so the yarn is 70 (ko/m).
×In order to reduce the number of loops, such as below the number of filaments, excessive elongation is required, and there is a drawback that fluff occurs and threads break easily during elongation, and 0.6 mm from the surface of the fiber bundle
The number of large loops as above is 30 (co/m)
In order to reduce the number to below, a larger elongation is required, and when elongated, there are disadvantages in that fluffing and thread breakage are more likely to occur, and there is a disadvantage in that sagging increases in areas where there is substantially no entanglement. By reducing the relaxation rate in fluid turbulence processing, the number of loops is reduced, and by further stretching the number of loops, the number of loops is reduced to 70.
It is possible to reduce the number of filaments to less than (co/m) x the number of filaments, but if the relaxation rate in fluid turbulence treatment is reduced, the ratio of large loop numbers to the entire loop will increase, and even if stretched, the thread will not break and remain stable. 0.6 from the fiber bundle surface within the range that can be processed to
The number of large loops, such as mm or larger, is set to 30 (co//mm).
m) 1.5mm from the surface of the fiber bundle in areas where the fiber bundle cannot be smaller than
The number of protruding sag such as above is 5 to 10 (ko/
m) Many of the above-mentioned drawbacks in unwinding property, passability through higher processing steps, and surface quality of woven or knitted fabrics are the same as those of the above-mentioned "Taslan" processed yarn. On the other hand, there is also a method of reducing the number of loops by performing heat treatment after fluid turbulence treatment. However, when heated under tension, thread breakage during elongation is reduced compared to elongation after the fluid turbulence treatment described above.
The number of large loops such as 0.6 mm or more is 30.
It is difficult to reduce the number of protruding bulges of 1.5 mm or more to 1 (k/m) or less, and to reduce the number of protruding bulges of 1.5 mm or more to 1 (k/m) or less, as there is a large amount of sagging in portions that do not substantially have entanglements. Those that have been heat treated in a fixed length or relaxed state
The number of large loops such as 0.6 mm or more is 30.
(co/m) or less requires long-term heat treatment. Therefore, the obtained yarn is easy to elongate with respect to elongation, and for example, the elongation at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve is extremely large, exceeding 20%. When passing through a higher-order processing step, yarn elongation occurs, causing tension fluctuations, and even thread breakage, resulting in significantly poor higher-order processability. In addition, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2003-19307 discloses a yarn in which entangled portions with strong entanglements and non-interlaced portions with asymmetrical spread are alternately present in irregular lengths, and a method for manufacturing the yarn.
This is proposed in Publication No. 52-15646. The yarn has no loops on the surface of the fiber bundle, and although it has strong entanglements, it has an asymmetrical spread in the unentangled portion, making it difficult to unwind from the package cage and in high-performance processes such as weaving and weaving processes. The passability of the next processing step is not necessarily good, and when this yarn is used to make a woven or knitted fabric, the woven or knitted fabric has a rough and hard texture without the sublime quality, which is required for a silk-spun woven or knitted fabric. , it is not possible to obtain characteristics such as a soft feeling and an elegant glossy feeling. The purpose of the present invention is to eliminate the drawbacks of the prior art, and to produce silk that has a strong kasuri-like appearance among spun yarns, which has good unwinding properties from the package, and has excellent passability through higher-order processing processes such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. The present invention provides a method for producing spun yarn. In order to achieve the above object, the present invention has the following configuration. i.e. 10 multifilament yarns
Fluid pressure is 3.0 with a relaxation rate of % or more and 30% or less
When producing loops or entanglements by supplying fluid of Kg/cm ² (G) or more to the fluid turbulent area formed by jetting it into the thread path, the fluid is The yarn is fed at an angle of 30 to 100 degrees with the yarn path axis, and a part of the rectangular parallelepiped yarn path is formed in the fluid turbulence area, and the fluid is jetted into the yarn path at an angle of 30 to 100 degrees.
Fluid is injected onto a plane opposite to the direction of the injection at an angle of 70 degrees, and the multifilament yarn is pressed against the plane without turning while being vibrated to open the yarn. This is a method for producing silk spun yarn, in which loops and entanglements are quickly generated in the same direction as the jetting direction, and then elongation is performed. By adopting the above structure, the present invention provides a multi-filant yarn in which portions having loops and entanglements and portions substantially having no loops and entanglements are irregularly present in the length direction of the yarn. The number of loops protruding from the surface of the filament fiber bundle is 2.
~70 (co/m) x number of filaments, and among the protruding loops, the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle is 0.6 mm or more, and the number of loops is 30 (co/m). or less, and the length of the portion substantially free of loops and entanglements is 10 mm or more, but the proportion of the length of the yarn is greater than 20% and less than 90%, and the stress-strain curve is It is possible to obtain silk spun processed yarn having an elongation of 16% or less under a load of 2 g/d. Note that in the above, the fiber bundle surface is a virtual surface excluding loops and sagging. FIGS. 1 and 2 are model diagrams showing the structure of yarn obtained by the present invention. As shown in FIG. 1, the yarn obtained by the present invention has its constituent filaments mixed with each other, intertwined with each other, and micro loops 1 protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle.
The length of the yarn is the part where there are a large number of filaments (entangled part K) and the part which is substantially straight and has no entangled filaments and no loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle (non-entangled part H). They exist irregularly along the direction. The number of loops protruding from the surface of the fiber bundle is 2 to 70 (ko//) measured using the measurement method described below.
m) x number of filaments. Further, the absolute value of the number of loops is in the range of 50 to 2500 (co/m). Distance between the most distant position of the protruding loops from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle (In Fig. 2, the distance from the protruding loop 2 to the most distant position from the fiber bundle surface 3 is shown as M) The number of loops with a diameter of 0.6 mm or more is 30 (co/m) or less as measured by the measuring method described later. Furthermore, the proportion of the length of a substantially straight portion having no loops or entanglements and having a length of 10 mm or more (unentangled portion A) is greater than 20% and less than 90%. In addition, the silk spun processed yarn obtained by the present invention has a number of entangled parts of 5 to 50 (co/m).
The strong contrast based on the difference in yarn form and the difference in gloss between the intertwined and non-entangled parts gives it a strong scrap-like appearance. Note that "substantially straight" means that the filaments constituting the multifilament yarn look like straight monofilaments without opening or forming slack. In the linear unentangled portion, each filament is linear, but some have fine crimp. The number of loops protruding from the fiber bundle surface is 2 (co/m)
If the number of filaments is less than x, the number of loops in the intertwined portion is too small, resulting in a poor textured appearance, and in the case of woven or knitted fabrics, the fabric will have a slimy feel and a poor so-called paper-like texture. 70 loops
(co/m) x the number of filaments, the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the processed yarn will have a high quality, spun yarn-like appearance and feel, but because there will be many loops on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric. The fabric has a thick texture and a strong fluffy feel, and unlike silk-spun fabrics, it has a lower texture and quality. The number of loops where the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle and the surface of the fiber bundle is 0.6 mm or more is 30 (co/
m) If the amount is higher, the unwinding property of the yarn from the package will deteriorate, and at the same time, large loops will become noticeable on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the processed yarn, resulting in a decrease in the surface quality of the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, if the proportion of the unentangled part A in the length of the yarn is less than 20%, the proportion of the highly glossy part in the woven or knitted fabric obtained from the yarn will be too small, and the contrast with the interlaced part will be too low, resulting in a strong dull tone. It no longer looks like this. If the proportion of the non-entangled portion A in the length direction of the yarn is greater than 90%, the proportion of the interlaced portion with weak luster will be too small, and the contrast between form and gloss will be too low, resulting in a scratch-like appearance. Furthermore, the processed yarn obtained by the present invention has an elongation of 16% or less at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve.
If the elongation at a load of 2g/d exceeds 16%, the yarn elongation will occur due to the various tensions applied to the yarn when it passes through various processes when the processed yarn is subjected to higher processing such as weaving, knitting, and weaving. It has the disadvantage that it causes tension fluctuations in various knitting and weaving processes, and also causes yarn breakage, resulting in extremely poor high-order processability. The number of protruding sagging in filaments and filament groups in which the distance L between the fiber bundle surface and the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface is 1.5 mm or more is 1.0 (co/m) or less as measured by the measuring method described later. If the number of protruding sag of 1.5 mm or more is more than 1.0 (co/m), the unwinding property of the yarn from the package cage deteriorates, and at the same time, high-order processability such as weaving and weaving tends to deteriorate. DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The method for producing silk spun yarn of the present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 3 is a process schematic diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention. The process will be explained. First, the multifilament undrawn yarn 10 is drawn by a supply roller 11, a drawing pin 12, and a drawing roller 13. It is preferable that the supply roller 11 be one that nips the rubber surface. Next, the drawn yarn is supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle 15 in an oversupply state by giving a difference in peripheral speed between the drawing roller 13 and the roller 14, and in this nozzle, the yarn is subjected to the turbulent flow of the fluid and becomes a fiber bundle. The filaments that make up the filament are spread apart along a plane opposite to the direction in which the fluid is injected, vibrated and migrated randomly, and then injected outside the nozzle to quickly remove loops and entanglements from the fluid turbulence area. Form. It is preferable to provide a collision body, particularly a collision plate 16, on the nozzle outlet side of the fluid turbulence nozzle, since this has the effect of reducing the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more. The yarn leaving the roller 14 is stretched between the rollers 17 and then wound up by a winding device 18. When the heating element 19 is used between the rollers 14 and 17 in combination to heat and elongate the thread, the yarn is thermally contracted, and the coarse loops generated in the fluid turbulence area are thermally contracted and become preferable minute loops, and the entanglement strength is improved, which is preferable. That's true. In the method for producing silk spun processed yarn of the present invention, the treatment with the fluid turbulence nozzle 15 must be performed in an oversupply state, and the relaxation rate must be in the range of 10% or more and 30% or less. Yes, 12% or more
It is preferably 28% or less. Further, the pressure of the fluid supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle needs to be 3.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or higher, and preferably 4.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or higher. When the relaxation rate is less than 10%, the number of loops is less than 2 (co/m) x the number of filaments, the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more is greater than 30 (co/m), and the protrusion of 1.5 mm or more There are cases where the number of sag becomes larger than 1.0 (co/m). When the relaxation rate exceeds 30%, the elongation at 2 g/d load on the stress-strain curve becomes greater than 16%, the number of loops becomes greater than 70 (co/m) x the number of filaments, and the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more increases. number is 30
(co/m). If the pressure of the fluid is lower than 3.0 Kg/cm ² (G), the number of protruding sag of 1.5 mm or more tends to be more than 1 (co/m), and furthermore, there is a drawback that the entanglement strength becomes weak. The amount of fluid supplied to the fluid turbulence area is 600 to 2000 when expressed as {denier of supplied yarn (D)} x {fluid flow rate required to process 1 kg of yarn (Nm ³ /Kg)}
(D・Nm ³ /Kg), preferably 900 to
More preferably, it is 1800 (D·Nm ³ /Kg).
This value is about 1/5 to 1/2 of that normally used in "Taslan" processing, indicating that processing can be performed with an extremely small amount of fluid consumption. The fluid turbulence nozzle used in the present invention forms a part of a rectangular parallelepiped thread passage and has one plane facing the direction in which the fluid is jetted, and presses the multifilament yarn against the plane by jetting the fluid. a mechanism that separately opens and vibrates each filament constituting the multifilament yarn along the plane and causes random migration; and a mechanism that jets the multifilament yarn out of the nozzle by fluid jet; Something with structure is needed. The fluid turbulence nozzle 15 shown in FIG. 3 will be described below using a specific example. FIG. 4a is a schematic vertical cross-sectional view of a fluid turbulence nozzle preferably used in the present invention, and FIG.
It is a schematic diagram of the XY cross section in figure a. Further, FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing the supply direction and take-out direction of the yarn to the fluid turbulence nozzle, and FIG. 6 is an explanatory view showing the position of the filament between the yarn passages in the fluid injection hole. The nozzle is composed of two parts: a housing 21 and a piece 22.
By closely fixing the thread passage 23 and the thread passage 23, a plane 24 facing the fluid jetting direction forming a part of the thread passage 23 is formed. The housing 21 has a fluid introduction hole 25, a fluid injection hole 26, and a thread passage groove that forms a thread passage.
Reference numeral 2 denotes a plate-shaped body having a smooth plane for forming one plane 24 of the thread passage 23. In FIGS. 4a and 4b, a recess is provided in the housing to form a rectangular thread passage, but a recess may be provided in the piece or in both the housing and the piece to form a rectangular thread passage. Also, in Figure 4b
The width of the yarn passage shown in (a) is √/20 mm or more, where D is the total denier of the multifilament yarn that is supplied to the fluid turbulence area, in order to provide uniform entanglement and form minute loops. /3 mm or less, more preferably √/15 mm or more and √/5 mm or less. The fluid injection hole 26 is required to have the function of imparting entanglement to the yarn by fluid injection and ejecting the yarn to the outside of the nozzle, so it is bored at an angle α with the yarn passage 23. From the viewpoint of imparting effect and yarn feeding effect, it is necessary that the angle is 30° or more and 70° or less. In the fluid turbulence nozzle, the fluid first enters the fluid introduction hole 25, passes through the fluid injection hole 26, and is injected into the yarn passage 23. Here, the multifilament yarn is collided with the multifilament yarn supplied from the entrance of the yarn passage 23, and as shown in FIG. Spread each filament 28 that makes up the
While the fluid is vibrated and rotated and migrated randomly, the fluid is jetted to the nozzle by the yarn feeding effect caused by the jetting angle α of the fluid jetting hole 26. At this time, if the entire multifilament yarn is subjected to a swirling action due to a swirling flow, each filament will not open, making it difficult to form loops or entanglements. In conventional "Taslan" processing, in the fluid turbulence area, each filament that makes up the multifilament yarn is separated and dispersed completely within the cross section of the fluid passage, and is moved around rapidly to apply random torque to generate loops and entanglements. Since the movement of the filament within the fluid passage is large, the size of the loop has to be large. On the other hand, in the present invention, in the fluid turbulence area, the multifilament yarn is pressed against a plane facing the fluid jet direction, and each filament is opened separately, vibrated, and randomly migrated to generate loops and entanglements. Since the filament moves only in a space very close to one plane within the fluid passage and is small, it has the characteristic that the size of the loop is small. When feeding the multifilament yarn to the fluid turbulence area in the fluid turbulence nozzle, the yarn feeding angle θ is set at 30° to 100° as shown in Fig. 5 from the direction opposite to the fluid injection hole with respect to the yarn path. This is necessary in order to form a fulcrum 27 when the filament is opened, vibrated, and migrated, thereby enhancing the entangling effect. The yarn feeding angle θ is preferably 45° to 90°. Further, at this time, the direction in which the yarn is taken out from the fluid turbulence area is substantially perpendicular to the direction of fluid jetting from the yarn path 23 (the axial direction of the yarn path), and the same as the direction of fluid jetting from the fluid jet hole 26 to the yarn path. Direction (see Figure 5)
This is necessary for stable running and formation of entanglements and loops. If moisture is added to the multifilament yarn to moisten it before supplying the multifilament yarn to a fluid turbulence area, loops and entanglements will occur more uniformly in the length direction of the yarn, and the entanglement strength will easily become too large, resulting in fluid turbulence. When stretching after flow treatment, fuzz and yarn breakage are likely to occur, and there are cases where it is difficult to increase the proportion of non-interlaced parts A to more than 20% in the stretched yarn, so even if moisture is added, 1c .c./min or less, and more preferably not. In the yarn obtained by performing only fluid turbulence treatment in the present invention, the proportion of the non-entangled part A in the length direction is usually 20% or less, and the proportion of the non-entangled part A in the length direction is larger than 20%. To achieve this, it is necessary to perform an elongation process after a fluid turbulence process. In other words, this is to utilize the characteristic that by elongation processing, loops and tangles formed by fluid turbulence processing disappear in order from weak to weak depending on the degree of elongation, and portions with strong loops and tangles remain. For example, a method of winding the yarn while stretching it after fluid turbulence treatment, as long as the yarn is stretched in a substantially tensioned state, specifically, at an elongation rate of 1% or more when it is stretched after fluid turbulence treatment. Any method may be used, such as a method in which a stretching process is performed separately after winding, a method in which a stretching process is performed after a fluid turbulence process, and then the film is wound. After the fluid turbulence process, it is preferable to mechanically determine the elongation rate and perform the elongation process between rollers, etc., as this provides good uniformity in the macro sense in the length direction of the yarn. As mentioned above, the elongation process after the fluid turbulence process is
It means that the elongation rate is 1% or more, but 2%
The content is more preferably 3% or more, and more preferably 3% or more.
The upper limit of the elongation rate corresponds to the relaxation rate in fluid turbulence treatment, and is preferably within 80% of the relaxation rate, more preferably within 70%. The elongation rate when the elongation process is repeated is determined based on the yarn obtained by the fluid turbulence process. It is also possible to carry out elongation treatment using heat treatment after fluid turbulence treatment, and in this case, it is preferable to elongate while heating as shown in FIG. Although there are no particular restrictions on the shape of the heating body used in the heat treatment, it is preferable to run the yarn in contact with the heating body. In this case, a flat hot plate with or without grooves is preferably used, but any shape such as a pin type or saddle type hot plate can be used. The temperature of the heating element should be at least a temperature that can thermally shrink or eliminate coarse loops and sagging generated in the fluid turbulence treatment and improve the strength of the entanglement, and it is sufficient that the temperature of the heating element When the softening point T _S is defined as (T _S -110°C) or more and (T _S -30°C) or less, it is preferable.
When the temperature of the heating element is lower than T _S -110°C, the thermal shrinkage of coarse loops and sagging, the effect of erasing, and the effect of improving the entanglement strength are significantly reduced, and when it exceeds T _S -30°C, the effect of improving the entanglement strength is significantly reduced. This is because the texture of the woven or knitted fabric becomes rough and hard, and defects such as uneven dyeing are likely to occur during the dyeing process. Note that if the fineness of the loop is increased by 1.5 times or more when the loop is heat-shrinked by heat treatment, the processed yarn will have a rough and hard feel, which is not desirable. The heat treatment time with the heating body is preferably 0.1 seconds or less in order to suppress the increase in elongation at a load of 2 g/d in the stress-strain curve. In addition, the boiling temperature of the processed yarn is 2~
It is preferably in the range of 15%, more preferably in the range of 3 to 13%, and preferably has a substantially uniform heat shrinkage rate in the long direction. Multifilament yarns that can be used in the present invention include regenerated protein, cellulose (rayon),
Cellulose ester multifilament yarn and thermoplastic multifilament yarn, preferably thermoplastic multifilament yarn. Thermoplastic multifilament yarns include polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, and polyvinyl yarns, with polyester and polyamide being particularly preferred. Polyesters include those that use terephthalic acid as the main dibasic acid, and glycols that use ethylene glycol or cyclohexanedimethanol as the main glycol, or those that use ethylene oxybenzoate and various ester-forming compounds. It may be a copolymerized one. Examples of polyamides include polyε-capramide and polyhexamethylene adipamide, and copolymers of various amide-forming compounds can also be used. Further, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, known pigments, antistatic properties, flame retardants, etc.
Modifiers such as dye-seating components may also be included. The cross-section may be round or irregularly shaped, but irregularly shaped, especially trilobal cross-sections are preferred in order to give the appearance of kasuri-like silk spinning. The thermoplastic multifilament yarn used in the present invention has a boiling yield of 5% or more immediately before heat treatment after fluid turbulence treatment, and when heat treatment is performed, coarse loop sag is reduced, eliminated, and entanglement strength is improved. It is preferable from the standpoint of fully exhibiting its effects, more preferably 7% or more, and even more preferably 10% or more. In addition, the filaments that make up the multi-filament yarn have a fine denier, and the more filaments there are, the more the entanglement strength is improved, so the filament denier is
It is preferably 3.2 denier or less, more preferably 2.1 denier or less, and the number of filaments is preferably 24 or more. Furthermore, it is also possible to supply mixed fiber yarns having different filament deniers or different heat shrinkage rates, or to feed the fibers in a mixed manner. Also, the total denier of multifilament yarn is 20~
Applicable to 200 denier, 40~150
It can be more preferably applied to denier ones. In addition, as a starting material in the production method of the present invention, the third
As shown in the figure, a multifilament undrawn yarn may be used, but it also includes a case where a drawn yarn is processed as a starting material. As explained above, in the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention, interlaced portions having loops and substantially straight unentangled portions alternate in the length direction of the yarn, so that when made into a woven or knitted fabric, It has excellent softness, flexibility, and drapability, and has a moderate shine and sublime quality, and in addition to a deep color effect, it has a strong kasuri tone based on the contrast of the shape and gloss difference between interlaced and non-interlaced areas. A silk-spun woven or knitted fabric having the appearance of Furthermore, the silk spun processed yarn of the present invention has a sufficient number of loops to exhibit a strong Kasuri texture, and in particular, because it has a small number of large loops, the yarn can be easily unwound from a package and can be used for weaving, knitting, etc. Excellent process passability in the next processing process. Further, in this manufacturing method, it is possible to efficiently manufacture silk-spun processed yarn having stable loops and entangled forms under stable processing conditions. Next, how to measure the number of loops and the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more, how to measure the number of protruding sagging of filaments and filament groups, the length of unentangled part A and the ratio to the length of yarn (unentangled part A ratio) The method for measuring the elongation under a load of 2 g/d, and the method for measuring the relaxation rate during fluid turbulence treatment are shown below. [Method for measuring the number of loops and the number of loops larger than 0.6 mm] Approximately 15 to 20 cm of processed yarn was placed between two transparent flat plates under a tension of 0.1 g/d and magnified 17 times with a magnifying glass. Make a video. In the present invention, in such an image, the distance N between the positions of both ends of the loop on the fiber bundle surface of the loop protruding from the fiber bundle surface as shown in filament 2 in FIG. 2, and the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface. A loop is one in which the ratio N/M of M is 4 or less. Note that an arch is one in which N/M is larger than 4. The operation of reading the number of loops per 10 cm is performed on 10 randomly sampled samples, and this is averaged to be the number of loops per 1 m.
The value obtained by multiplying this by the number of filaments is the number of loops. The distance M between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface in the loop and the fiber bundle surface is 0.6 measured with a Nogi.
What I read in the same way for loops larger than mm
The number of loops should be 0.6mm or more. [Method for measuring the number of protruding sag of filaments and filament groups] In the present invention, protruding sag refers to those that protrude from the fiber bundle surface, that is, the distance between the farthest position from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface in a loop or arch is 1.5 Refers to objects larger than mm. The number of protruding sag is measured by the following method. Observe 10 m of processed yarn on black paper under a tension of 0.1 g/d while magnifying it from directly above with a magnifying glass.
Use a caliper to read the number of filaments and filament groups where the distance between the furthest point from the fiber bundle surface and the fiber bundle surface is 1.5 mm or more. Refers to those with the same shape and unknown number of filaments. This operation is performed on 10 randomly sampled samples, and the average number of pieces per 1 m is determined. [Method for measuring the length of the unentangled part A and the ratio of the unentangled part A] One processed yarn with a length of about 110 to 120 cm is crimped to one end of a horizontally arranged measuring plate with a length of 1 m. to the thread
Attach a weight calculated to apply a load of 0.01 g/d to the other end, pass the string through the pulley, and hang it freely beyond the edge of the measuring plate. Pass a smooth, pointed pin vertically through the part where the distance between the loops is 10 mm or more according to the scale of the measuring plate, and slowly move it back and forth by hand to find the length l of the part that is substantially straight and has no tangles. Find up to mm. Repeat this operation for all locations where the distance between loops is 10 mm or more within a sample length of 1 m.
Calculate the sum of the lengths of the untangled portions of 1 m of processed yarn. The force applied when passing the pin through the sample thread must be selected so as not to cut or stretch the filament. Perform this operation on 10 randomly sampled samples,
This is averaged and taken as the length of the unentangled part A per 1 m. In addition, the unentangled portion A ratio is determined by the following formula. Ratio of unentangled part A (%) = Sum of lengths of unentangled part A (mm) / 1000 (mm) Ten
cm/min, chart speed 20cm/min, sample length 20cm
Under these conditions, draw stress-strain curves for five randomly sampled samples. The elongation of the sample processed yarn under a stress equivalent to 2 g/d is read from the obtained stress-strain curve and averaged to determine the elongation under a load of 2 g/d. [Relaxation rate during fluid turbulence treatment] When the surface speeds of the roller feeding yarn into the fluid turbulence treatment area and the roller taking it out are V ₁ and V ₂ m/min, respectively, Relaxation rate (%) = V ₁ − V ₂ /V ₁ ×100. The present invention will be specifically explained below with reference to Examples. Example 1 An undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 (measured in orthochlorophenol at 25° C.), a 225 denier 36 filament, and a triangular cross section was processed according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. Stretching pin 12 is a heat pin at 100℃, stretching roller 1
3 was stretched at a surface speed of 300 m/min and a stretching ratio of 3.0 times. The fluid turbulence treatment nozzle 15 is shown in Fig. 4a and b.
A collision plate was used in combination with a nozzle having the shape shown in . In the nozzle, the thread passage 23 has a rectangular shape with a width a of 1 mm, a height b of 1.4 mm, and a length of 13 mm.
6 had a diameter of 1 mm, and the injection angle α was 60°. Further, the yarn feeding angle θ was set to 90°. Air pressure supplied to the fluid turbulence treatment nozzle, stretching roller 13 and roller 14
The relaxation rate between rollers 14 and 17 and the elongation rate between rollers 14 and 17 were set to the conditions shown in Table 1. In Experiment Nos. 11 to 13, heat treatment was performed during elongation, and the heating body 19 was a flat hot plate with a weld length of 250 mm, and the heating temperature was 200°C. Immediately before winding, an oil agent containing 90% by weight or more of mineral oil with a viscosity of 70 seconds (30°C) is added to the processed yarn weight at 0.8% to create a straight-rolled cheese with a winding angle of 15° and a winding width of 150 mm. (2Kg roll). Table 1 also shows the elongation rate during winding, the number of loops of the obtained processed yarn, the number of loops of 0.6 mm or more, the number of protruding sag, the elongation at a load of 2 g/d, and the ratio of unentangled portion A. Note that Experiment Nos. 1, 4, 10, 13, and 14 are comparative examples for clarifying the effects of the present invention. As is clear from Table 1, in order to stably obtain a good spun processed silk yarn with an emphasized Kasuri tone, which is the objective of the present invention, the relaxation rate needs to be between 10 and 30%, and the relaxation rate must be between 12 and 30%. 28%, and the fluid pressure supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle is 3.0Kg/cm ² (G)
or more is required, preferably 4.0Kg/cm ² (G) or more,
This also indicates that decompression processing is necessary. These 14 levels of processed yarn were used as warp yarns and weft yarns, and were made into a plain weave at a weave density of 80 yarns/inch in the vertical direction and 70 yarns/inch in the horizontal direction, and were processed using a normal dyeing process for polyester.

【table】

[Table] Also, for each processed yarn, 50 cheese rolls of 2 kg were unwound for each level using a double twister (WT) made by Murata Machinery under the conditions of yarn speed 16 m/min, spindle rotation speed 8000 rpm, and fuel number 500 T/M (Z). Subjected to sex test. The number of yarn breakages in the unwinding test is also listed in Table 1. In Experiment No. 1, which used processed yarn, there were many coarse loops, which caused poor unwinding performance, poor weaving process passability, and poor quality of the resulting fabric. In the processed yarn of Experiment No. 4, the yarn spread in the non-interlaced portions and the number of protruding sag was too large, resulting in poor unwinding properties and poor passage through the weaving process, and the resulting fabric had a strong luster and a scratchy appearance. It was also weak and plain, lacking sublimity and softness. The textured yarn of Experiment No. 10 had a large number of loops, a large number of protruding sag, and a high 2 g/d elongation, so it had significantly poor unwinding and weaving properties, and the resulting fabric had a spun yarn-like texture. However, the texture was too strong and the texture was inferior, which was completely different from the silk texture that is the object of the present invention. The processed yarns of experiments No. 13 and 14 are 2
Since the elongation under g/d load was too high, yarn breakage was noticeable due to large tension fluctuations during unwinding and weaving. All of the textured yarns other than Experiment Nos. 1, 4, 10, 13, and 14 had excellent unwinding properties and passability through the weaving process, and the resulting fabrics exhibited a good, emphasized kasuri-like appearance. It was a fabric with an excellent texture and a moderate level of sublimity and softness. Example 2 The procedure of Example 1 was carried out using a 210 denier 34 filament undrawn nylon 6 yarn with a triangular cross section as the supplied raw yarn.
Processed according to the conditions of No. 11. Number of processed yarn loops
15 (co/m) x number of filaments, number of loops of 0.6 mm or more 15 (co/m), number of protruding sagging 0.6 (co/m),
It had an elongation of 12% under a load of 2 g/d and a ratio of unentangled portion A of 33%, which was sufficient to achieve the objectives of the present invention. The obtained processed yarn was used both vertically and horizontally to form a plain weave of 80 yarns/inch in the vertical direction and 70 yarns/inch in the horizontal direction, and was processed using the normal dyeing process for using nylon 6. The resulting fabric has an accentuated Kasuri tone, a deep color, an elegant luster, a soft feel,
It had the appearance and texture of a good silk texture with a moderate level of sublime quality. Comparative Example 1 Using a 225 denier 36 filament, undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn with triangular cross section, Example 1 was carried out using the "Taslan" nozzle shown in FIG. 4 of U.S. Pat. No. 3,545,057 as the fluid turbulence nozzle.
Processed according to the conditions of No. 6. As shown in Table 2, the properties of the obtained processed yarn are No. 16, the number of loops, especially large loops of 0.6 mm or more, is extremely large, and the number of protruding sag is also large, so the unwinding of the yarn from the package cage is poor. The passability during the weaving process was also poor. In addition, the obtained fabric has many coarse loops on its surface, lacks luster, and has a spun yarn-like texture and appearance with a sublime and fluffy feel, and has a strong kasuri-like texture, which is the objective of the present invention. The appearance was different from silk spun fabrics and was of inferior quality. Here, processing was performed using heat treatment, which is effective in reducing the number of loops, especially the number of loops larger than 0.6 mm. First, it was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment under the same conditions as in Experiment No. 16, and then subjected to tension heat treatment using a 0.60 m flat hot plate at 200°C at an elongation rate of 6%, and then wound up at an elongation rate of 3%.

[Table] Although the number of loops in the obtained processed yarn (Experiment No. 17) falls within the range specified by the present invention, when looking at the shape of the yarn in the non-interlaced part, filaments that are opened and spread out are noticeable. The ratio of unentangled portions A desired by the invention is small. In addition, breakage of fluff threads was also observed. The number of protruding sag was large, and the unwinding and weaving properties were also poor. Next, it was subjected to fluid turbulence treatment under the same conditions as in Experiment No. 16, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment using a 1.0 m tube heater at 200° C. at a relaxation rate of 1%, and then wound up at an elongation rate of 3%. Although the number of loops in the obtained processed yarn (experiment No. 18) is within the range specified by the present invention, it is 2.
The elongation under g/d load was too high, the number of protruding sag was large, and the tension fluctuated greatly during unwinding and weaving, resulting in poor unwinding and weaving properties. In addition, the boiling yield value of the processed yarn was as low as 0.2%, making it difficult to dye and finish the fabric, and the surface of the fabric had a rough feel, making it impossible to obtain a silk-spun fabric with a good texture and texture. .

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a model diagram showing the shape of the thread of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a model diagram for explaining the shape of the thread of the present invention, and Fig. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a preferred embodiment of the manufacturing method of the present invention. Figure 4a is a schematic sectional view showing an example of a fluid turbulence nozzle that can be preferably used in the present invention, and FIG. 4b is a schematic view showing an XY cross section in FIG. 4a. . FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram showing the direction in which the thread is supplied to the fluid turbulence nozzle and the direction in which it is taken out. FIG. 6 is an explanatory view showing the position of the filament in the thread passage in the fluid injection hole. 1, 1: loop, 2: protruding filament, 3:
Fiber bundle surface, 4: protruding sag, 10: multifilament undrawn yarn, 11: supply roller, 12: drawing pin, 13: drawing roller, 14, 17: roller, 15: fluid turbulence nozzle, 16: collision plate, 1
8: Winding device, 19: Heating body, 21: Housing, 22: Piece, 23: Yarn passage, 24: Plane facing the fluid injection hole, 25: Fluid introduction hole, 26:
Fluid injection hole, 27: fulcrum, 28: filament.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Supplying a multifilament yarn to a fluid turbulent region formed by ejecting fluid with a fluid pressure of 3.0 Kg/cm ² (G) or more into a yarn path at a relaxation rate of 10% or more and 30% or less. When generating loops or entanglements, the yarn is fed into the yarn path from a direction opposite to the fluid injection hole at an angle of 30 to 100 degrees with the yarn path axis, and in the fluid turbulence area, the yarn is fed into a rectangular parallelepiped shape. The fluid is injected onto a plane that forms part of the passage and is opposite to the direction in which the fluid is injected into the yarn passage at an injection angle of 30 to 70 degrees, and the multifilament yarn is pressed against the plane without turning while opening. Silk spun processed yarn characterized by vibrating the fibers and quickly taking them out from the fluid turbulence area in a direction substantially perpendicular to the axis of the yarn path and in the same direction as the fluid jetting direction to generate loops and entanglements, and then subjecting them to elongation treatment. manufacturing method. 2. The method for producing a spun silk yarn according to claim 1, wherein the elongation treatment is performed in a heated state.