JPS626099Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed explanation of the idea] This invention relates to the improvement of hakama.

Currently, there are two types of hakama: kusu hakama (kusuari hakama) and andon hakama.
The former is used for formal wear in combination with a crested haori, and the latter is worn for everyday wear, but in both cases, the fabric used is hakama (wider than regular width fabric, about 9 to 10 meters in length), and the front and back hakama are used. There are designated folds on the front hakama, and bamboo folds on the front hakama.
It is customary to create a nage on the back hakama, but
The above-mentioned sasahida is made by exposing the surface of the fabric on the front side of the front hakama, folding it, then turning it to the outside back side, stacking it to correspond to the folding on the front side, and folding in the edges. Because the front hakama was removed, it was impossible to make a front hakama with two pieces of medium-width front cloth. When worn, the folds overlap from the waist down, making it bulky and difficult to wear lightly.Andon hakama, which was once considered for everyday wear, is no longer suitable for everyday wear these days. Also, even though it can be worn like pants, monpe is used for work wear, so it is not suitable for everyday wear.

This invention uses two pieces of regular-width cloth in the front and back, and a linseed cloth that goes over the crotch area.It has pleats and bamboo folds, making it look cool and comfortable to wear as a hakama over a kimono, and can also be worn easily for everyday wear. The aim is to provide a completely new type of hakama that can be worn on a daily basis.

This will be explained below with reference to the drawings.

The hakama body 1 is made of wool fabric, pongee fabric, synthetic fiber fabric, cotton, or other double-sided fabric of medium width or single-sided fabric, and the front hakama 2 and back hakama 3 are both made of cloth 2 with a length corresponding to the length. Fold the sides of the front cloth 5 from the back side to the front side according to the shape of the bamboo folds, fold the sides of the front cloth 5 into the same width, and sew them together 6. Then, a bamboo fold 7 is provided on the surface of the front hakama, the side part of the back cloth 8 is folded to the back side by a predetermined length, folded into the edge thereof and sewn 9, a throw 10 is provided on the back hakama, and a bamboo cloth is placed in the crotch part 11. 12 is sewn across and a gore 13 is provided. The size of the lintel should be approximately 27 to 29 cm square, which will fit well with long kimono, but if it is worn over a short kimono, such as one that reaches to the knee, it can be smaller, and A 13 to 14 cm square piece is sufficient.
Reference numeral 14 is a small opening in the front of the crotch area.It is convenient to leave approximately 6 to 8 cm unstitched when sewing the cloth, and there is no need to provide an opening for items used by women. . The front hakama has pleats 16 by folding the cloth from left and right over the seam 15 of the front cloth.
At this time, the lower pleats 16' are folded to the right from the front seam and folded back from a predetermined position (Fig. 4), and the upper pleats 16'' are folded into the folds 1 of the lower pleats.
6a and fold it to the left, its fold ridge 16b
Fold it back around the center of the hakama and overlap. One or two pleats 17 are provided on each side of the folds on the upper side of the overlapped pleats, and a front string 18 is sewn to the waist of the front hakama. The above-mentioned overlapping pleats and the pleats on the left and right sides thereof can be made into poppy pleats that extend up to the kick or almost up to the knees. For the back hakama, the fabric is folded from left and right over the interwoven part 19 of the back fabric, and the lower pleats 20' and upper pleats 20'' are folded at the same time as the overlapped folds of the front hakama. A folded fold 20 is provided in which the upper fold touches the pleat ridge 20a and the upper fold ridge 20b is located approximately at the center of the hakama, and a back string 21 is sewn to the waist. , a wide back strap is used without the attachment, and a hard core 22 is used in the part that hits the back.
However, this does not preclude the installation of a wainscot or an annex. The front string and back string can be made of the same fabric or different fabric depending on the fabric used, but it is convenient to use something that is easy to tighten and does not come undone.The width of the front string is approximately 2.5 to 3 cm, and the width of the back string is approximately 5 to 6 cm. It's getting to a point. The seam allowance at the upper end of the pull-up is slightly incised to make it easier to fold the bamboo folds, and this part is protected from the front side by barring 23.

When making the Sasa pleats, the proposed hakama is formed by folding the sides of the front cloth from the back side to the front side by an amount corresponding to the Sasa pleat shape, exposing the back side to the front surface, and folding the edges by the seam allowance. Unlike creating pleats, you don't use much of the width of the front cloth, so you can create bamboo folds with two pieces of normal width cloth.
It is possible to sew a front hakama with overlapping pleats and folds on the left and right sides of the hakama.When worn, these pleats give the appearance of a hakama, which makes it look cool, and since the type has a gusset, both legs are separated and the hem of the kimono. The fabric is supported by a gusset and is made from a small amount of fabric, so it is easy to hem and is light and comfortable to wear.
And since it is not stiff and stiff like traditional hakama, and does not have the image of work wear like monpe, it is suitable for going out or everyday wear.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

The drawings show an embodiment of the invention, and FIG. 1 is a front view with the right side folded back. Figure 2 is a rear view with the bottom of the folds open. FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of the crotch and overlapping folds seen from the front, and FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram of the folds of the front hakama.

Claims (1)

[Scope of utility model registration request] It is a four-width cross-legged hakama made from two pieces of regular width cloth on the front and back, and above the fold, the sides of the front cloth are folded from the back side to the front side by approximately the same amount as the bamboo folds, and the edges are used as the seam allowance. Fold and sew to create bamboo folds on the front side of the front hakama, fold the sides of the back fabric to the back side to a specified size, fold in the edges and sew, create a nage on the back hakama, and cross the crotch area with linden cloth. A gusset is sewn on the front hakama and a back hakama, and the upper fold is placed in the center of the hakama. A hakama is formed by creating pleats on the left and right sides of the folds on the upper side of the folds, attaching a front string to the waist of the folds, and attaching a back string to the waist of the back hakama.