JPS63190038A - Silky fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention <Industrial Application Field> The present invention is a woven fabric made of filament yarns with a special cross section, which has fine fibers on the surface of the woven fabric, and has a stiff, dry feel and squeaky feeling. Pertains to silky fabrics that are rich, bulky, and have a mild luster.

<Prior Art> Conventionally, silky fabrics made of synthetic fibers have been produced by improving polymers, or by adding inorganic compounds to lower the refractive index and improve color development. In addition, there are fibers made of mixed fibers with irregular shapes and different shrinkage, those made with special crimped yarns, those made with composite fibers made of co-component polymers, those made with fine denier single fibers, and the longitudinal direction of single fibers (with uneven heat shrinkage). The development of silky fabrics with improved texture and luster is progressing through dyeing, bulky texture processing, etc., and the combination of these. No silky fabric has been realized that is as good as silk fabric, which has a firm texture and a mild luster called pearlescent luster.

<Problem that the invention seeks to solve> The present inventors investigated the characteristics of silk fabric in detail.

As a result, the most important characteristics of silk fabrics are luster and bulk due to fineness and triangular cross-sectional shape C2, and secondly, they are expressed by different fineness, irregular mixed fibers, crimped structure, and fibril multilayer structure. The excellent texture and deep color effect are achieved by expanding the fiber space by scouring and removing sericin.Secondly, we focused on creating richer bulk and a smoother texture. The most important characteristics of the texture of silk fabrics are its softness and smoothness (-bulkness, warm feel, waist, dry feel, and squeaky feel).As for the luster, it is characterized by its calm luster and color tone. These are caused by the fiber structure of silk itself, and it is difficult to provide silky fabrics using polyester filaments using a single technique.Therefore, the present inventors have developed a method for producing silky fabrics using polyester filaments. The present invention was achieved through extensive research into the properties of polyester filaments in order to provide a silky fabric that has never existed before.

Means to solve problems〉 That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.

A woven fabric in which the cross section of the single fibers is irregular (reflected and uneven in the form of a sawtooth) and is woven from polyester filaments as warp and/or weft, and there are countless fine fibers in the surface layer of the woven fabric. A silky fabric featuring

Effect〉 Hereinafter, the effects of the present invention will be explained in detail.

In the present invention, the cross section of a single fiber is irregular (= uneven in the shape of a bent sawtooth), as shown in FIG. Fig. 7 schematically shows a cross-sectional state of an example of a silky fabric according to the present invention ζ, and Fig. 2 shows a monofilament according to the present invention. Fig. 9 schematically shows an example of a cross section of a sheath-core composite fiber used in the present invention, and Fig. 9 shows a conventionally known triangular cross section. An example of a cross section is shown.

The cross section of the single fibers of the present invention is more precise than the triangular cross section or its modified cross section, which is often used in conventional polyester filaments, in order to give the dry and squeaky feel that is characteristic of the texture of silk fabrics. It gives a dry and squeaky feel. The surface of a polyester filament yarn is inherently smooth, so even if the cross section of the single fiber is triangular or a modified cross section, it will have a slimy feel peculiar to polyester filament fabrics.

In this regard, as shown in Fig. 2, the single fibers of the present invention, which have an irregular cross section with a crooked sawtooth shape, have a complex uneven filament surface structure, which causes friction between the single fibers. In addition, when the warp and weft threads are rubbed against each other on the fabric structure, the frictional resistance is also large, creating a dry and squeaky feeling. Also, the phenomenon that the warp and weft threads slip on the fabric structure does not occur.Furthermore, the special cross section gives stiffness and bulkiness.Also, the complexity of the surface structure
It causes diffused reflection of light, giving it a mild luster and deep color tone effect.

The presence of countless fine fibers in the surface layer of the fabric is shown in Figure S1 (
= As shown (: Irregular cross section of a single fiber (= A state in which a part of the bent sawtooth-like unevenness is split from the single fiber at an arbitrary part, and the fine fiber does not separate from the single fiber. , refers to a state in which one of the split fine fibers is always bound to a single fiber.

The presence of these fine fibers has the effect of further adding to the texture, gloss, and color tone effects due to the above-mentioned cross section. Incidentally, when the surface of a silk fabric after scouring is observed under magnification using a microscope, these fine fibers are always present. These are naturally occurring fine fibers that are mixed within the sericin layer of silk thread, and are generated during scouring. The presence of these fine fibers influences the characteristic properties of silk fabrics, and the presence of these fine fibers is one of the main constituent elements of the present invention.

In silk fabrics, fine fibers can be created intentionally or negligently during the preparation, weaving, and scouring steps.

However, if the thickness of the fine fibers exceeds 5 μm, the Tokoura fibrillation phenomenon occurs, causing the textile product to become whitish and cause dyeing spots. Normally, the single fibers of polyester filaments used in clothing textiles are mostly O05~3 deniers, and their thickness is de~λ/,! It is μm. General: When the thickness of the double fiber is 9 μm or less, the color of the dyed fiber becomes whitish brown. This is because because the single fibers are thin, a large amount of light passes through them and the original color tone is not produced. The thickness of these fine fibers! μ
When it comes to 2 m or less, special (= 9μ in the case of textile products)
It is difficult to see with the naked eye due to the color reflection from single fibers with a thickness of m or more. Since the fine fibers in the present invention are 58m or less, they do not affect the dyeing spots or color tone of the fabric at all.
On the contrary, similar to the fine fibers that naturally exist in silk fabrics, they have the effect of imparting softness, warmth, and a squeaky feel to the texture of the fabric. Therefore, it is desirable that the difference in the thickness of the fine fibers from that of the single fibers is large, and in practice, it is more desirable that the thickness of the fine fibers be 3 μm or less.

The manufacturing method for obtaining the silky fabric of the present invention is disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 4
/-/gθ4t Although proposed in Japanese Patent No. 77, the present invention has been achieved by further improving the manufacturing method. In the example of JP-A-6/-/404t7, it was assumed that this was because the core component was also reduced at the stage where the sheath component was completely removed and the fiber surface became rounded, but after that. In this study, we found that the core component was not only reduced in weight, but also that some of the serrated protrusions on the cross section of the single fibers were broken, producing fine fibers (thus, the cross section became even milder). As a result of extensive research, the present inventors discovered that in order to obtain the above-mentioned silky fabric, the sheath component had a dissolution rate of 70 to 20 times faster than the core component in an alkaline aqueous solution from two types of polyester polymers. We have discovered that this is possible by using a sheath-core composite fiber consisting of a sheath-core composite fiber and by setting the weight loss rate of the core component to !-λθ with respect to the raw yarn, and have arrived at the present invention. A sheath for obtaining the silky fabric of the present invention, an example of type 6 drawn fiber is schematically shown (=C as shown:
A sheath-core composite fiber with irregularly bent serrated boundaries, made from a λ type polyester polymer whose dissolution rate in an alkaline aqueous solution is 10-20 times faster than that of the core component. This is possible by using sheath-core composite fibers.

What is the dissolution rate in an alkaline aqueous solution here? Weight ratio in caustic soda aqueous solution /:! 70 in boiling state at 0
It refers to the weight loss rate when immersed for minutes.

If the dissolution rate of the sheath component in the alkaline aqueous solution is less than 10 times the dissolution rate C2 of the core component, the sheath component and the core have irregularly bent serrations in the cross section of the single fiber. At the bonding boundary line with the component, a part of the sheath component that enters at an acute angle remains undissolved, and the cross section does not have an uneven sawtooth shape.

As a result, not only the initially desired texture is not obtained, but also staining spots occur due to the difference in dyeing speed between the sheath component and the core component. On the other hand, if the dissolution rate of the sheath component in the alkaline aqueous solution is more than 20 times faster than the dissolution rate of the core component (=, it is difficult to control the weight loss rate during dyeing processing, When reducing the weight of the core component with alkali, which is carried out subsequent to the above, it becomes impossible to control the amount of the core component to be 20'4 to 20'4.Accordingly, in practice, the rate of dissolution of the sheath component in the alkaline aqueous solution is , 72 than that of the core component.
A sheath-core type conjugate fiber made of a polyester polymer that is twice as fast as ~/♂ is desirable.

The warp and/or weft (=
After weaving, the sheath component is dissolved and removed in an alkaline aqueous solution, which expands the fiber space and imparts rich bulk and drape properties, resulting in a fabric with a supple texture. This has exactly the same effect as removing sericin from silk fabrics by scouring. That is, when it is organized as a fabric, it remains a sheath-core composite fiber, but when it is reduced in weight with alkali and the sheath component is removed, spaces are created between the single yarns and between the warp and weft, and at the same time, the warp and weft /Or the degree of bending of the weft yarns on the fabric structure remains large, which gives the fabric softness, bulk, and warmth.

Furthermore, as a method to make countless fine fibers exist in the surface layer of the chain fabric, fine fibers are generated by reducing the sheath component with an alkali (=thus removing it) and then reducing the core component with respect to the raw yarn by !~λθ coefficient. The presence of these fine fibers adds softness, warmth, and squeaky feel to the texture of the fabric.The method for generating these fine fibers is explained below. The cross section of the single fiber used in the invention is irregular (used as a polyester filament yarn with irregularities in a bent sawtooth shape);
can be generated. The principle of generation of fine fibers will be explained in more detail with reference to FIG. Figure 2 is a sheath-core composite fiber used in the present invention, and is a schematic cross-sectional view of the core component after the sheath component has been reduced in alkali. , the core component to the yarn!
.about., when the 2θ coefficient is reduced, the portion a in FIG. 2 splits from the single fiber, and fine fibers are generated. When a sheath-core composite fiber having a core component having a cross section C2 of a normal triangular cross section or a modified cross section such as a modification thereof is used, fine fibers will not be generated even if the core component is reduced by alkali. t~20% relative to the yarn
Reducing the weight means reducing the weight by J-,201° compared to the raw yarn used when weaving the fabric before alkali weight loss, and the raw yarn is the original yarn containing the sheath component and the core component. It is. The reason why the weight loss rate of the core component is regulated with respect to the raw yarn is in accordance with the actual processing process.

When the alkali weight loss rate of the core component is less than tS with respect to the raw yarn, fine fibers cannot be generated in the surface layer of the fabric. That is, in Figure 2 (:), the fine fibers cannot be split from the single fibers at the part a, and no fine fibers are generated.In addition, if the thickness exceeds 20 ts, the thickness of the fine fibers will exceed 58 m, and the woven product will become 0 brown. (It will be a gift and will have dyed spots.)

If the weight loss rate is further increased, fine fibers with a thickness of 5 μm or more will separate from the single fibers and re-adhere to the fabric, damaging the product. This is because, in FIG. 2, not only the portion a but also the portion b can be split from the single fibers, resulting in the thickness of the fine fibers exceeding 54 m.

From the above, in practice, it is preferable that the alkali weight loss rate of the core component is between ♂ and // with respect to the raw yarn.

<Examples> Hereinafter, several examples according to the present invention will be shown, and the texture of the fabric will be compared with comparative examples.

Example/Sheath-core type composite fiber made of a polyester polymer having a single fiber cross section as shown in Fig. 36, 2d/a4t
Example 1: Making a plain weave fabric using warp and weft seams
shall be. Example λ used exactly the same yarn as Example 9, and the weft was 2700T/M twisted on 4 raw yarns, and two yarns in the S twist and 2 twist directions were used (= Table 7 A naten crepe was made according to the textile specifications shown in Table 1. Examples shown in Table 1 and Table 2) Table 2 shows the results of normal weight loss and dyeing under the conditions shown in Table 2. 1 = Show.

Comparative Example / Figure C: As shown, a polyester filament with a so-called triangular cross section! Example using yarn of Od/361/
In order to compare with C and C, fabrics were made in exactly the same manner as C:@/ according to the specifications shown in the table, and these were designated as Comparative Examples/ and 3. Similarly 4=polyester filament 66 having a triangular cross section as shown in Fig.
, Ri d/, 24tf was used for the warp and weft, Example/,
Fabrics were made according to the same specifications as those of C and used as comparative examples C and G. Similarly, Table 2 shows the results of reducing and dyeing each material.

The texture (bulkness, dry feeling, squeaky feeling) and gloss (mildness) of the textile products obtained in Example/, Comparative Example/, C, Example C, Comparative Example 3, and G were evaluated by 70 test subjects. Table 183 shows the test results, the presence or absence of fine fibers, and the results of measuring the thickness.

Table 1 Table 2 All weight loss rates in the table represent the ratio to the original yarn.

As is clear from Table 3, the fabric obtained from Example/Koni= has a dry feel due to the special cross section of the single fibers.
The result is a distinctive silky fabric with a squeaky feel and mild luster. In addition, the presence of fine fibers further accentuated the softness and squeaky feel. In addition, a silky fabric with bulk, softness, and drape properties due to the alkali weight loss of the sheath component (: due to the appropriate spaces between single fibers and between warp and weft) was obtained.On the other hand, comparative example /, The fabric obtained by this method did not have bulkiness, dry feel, squeaky feeling, etc., and the fabric had a strong luster and could hardly be called a silky fabric.

In particular, in Comparative Examples C and D, a phenomenon in which the warp and weft yarns slipped on the fabric structure was observed, resulting in unsatisfactory products.

<Effects of the Invention> According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a silky fabric that has a dry feeling, a squeaky feeling, and a bulkiness that are not found in conventional fabrics, and has a mild luster that blends in with silk.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 7 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing the cross-sectional state of an embodiment of the silky fabric according to the present invention. FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing a sheath and a polyester filament of type 6 drawn fiber used in producing a silky fabric according to the present invention. FIG.
An example having a conventionally known triangular traverse surface is shown. 1
... warp, 2... weft 3... fine fiber, 4... sheath component, 5... core component, a, b, part where single fibers can be split. Patent applicant: Asahi Kasei Industries, Ltd. Figure 1, Figure 41

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) A fabric woven from polyester filaments as warp and/or weft, in which the cross section of single fibers is irregularly bent and uneven in the form of serrations, and countless fine fibers are present in the surface layer of the fabric. A silky fabric characterized by (2) The silky fabric according to claim (1), wherein the fine fibers have a thickness of 5 μm or less.