JPS647961B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing novel cosmetic oils.

It is well known that oils that can be used in cosmetics, that is, cosmetic oils, are liquid at room temperature and have low volatility.

One of the properties of these oils is their ability to be insoluble in water and to dissolve various organic substances that are desirable to be present in the cosmetic composition.

These oils are insoluble in water and can form emulsions with water, in which water constitutes the continuous phase or the dispersed phase in the form of fine droplets.

The main properties of oils are their slimy feel and general lubricity which facilitates application and their ability to spread over the skin leaving a hydrophobic film on its surface.

The softening properties of cosmetic oils are related to the latter properties of the oils. The softening effect manifested in the improvement or maintenance of skin suppleness can be explained by the formation of its hydrophobic film, which retains skin moisture and prevents evaporation even under atmospheric cold or dry conditions. In addition, the softening effect in the case of cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions is partly due to the fact that the water in the emulsion, which is available to retain moisture in the skin, contributes to this effect. I can explain.

However, it is well known that not all oils have the same degree of softening properties and only some oils can be used in cosmetics.

On the other hand, it has been pointed out above that the oily feel resulting from the lubricating properties of oil is an advantageous property insofar as it facilitates application to the skin.

However, this property is considered unpleasant and therefore undesirable when the film remaining on the skin after application of the composition retains its oily texture or is often slightly sticky, i.e. sticky. , which is a drawback.

It must be acknowledged that drawbacks of this kind are in fact always felt, albeit to varying degrees, in most of the cosmetic oils conventionally used.

Additionally, experience has shown that some oils are difficult to spread onto the skin. These oils eventually become "tirants" and are considered unpleasant.

Another disadvantage of using oils in cosmetic compositions is that the oil film applied to the skin exhibits a more or less shiny appearance, which is generally not considered to be very aesthetic. .

The object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions containing cosmetic oils which exhibit none or only a few of these various disadvantages.

The oils used in cosmetics are especially those of vegetable origin.

It is known that vegetable matter contains mostly esters, mainly saponifiable fatty acid glycerides as well as unsaponifiable fractions.

Unsaponifiable fractions also have extremely advantageous properties in dermatology, and their use in cosmetic compositions is particularly recommended for improving the appearance of aged, dry or rough skin. .

However, compositions containing unsaponifiable fractions, like all oil-containing compositions, suffer from the disadvantages pointed out above, namely the formation of a glossy oil film on the skin, which is particularly unpleasant to the touch. Show shortcomings.

The more the oil leaves behind an oil film that is unpleasant in appearance and feel, the less penetrating it is considered to be.

The present invention is particularly directed to cosmetic compositions containing permeable cosmetic oils.

According to the invention, 20 to 45% by weight of bittersweet oil, 25 to 40% by weight of sunflower oil, and 20 to 40% by weight of at least one unsaponifiable fraction previously extracted from soybean oil, avocado oil, corn oil or sunflower oil. A cosmetic composition is provided that contains a mixture of cosmetic oils.

The preparation of unsaponifiable fractions is described, for example, in French Patent No. 2041594 and in the “journal of the
American Oil Chemists′ Society” 37 , 564−
567 (1960) and 39 , 323-327 (1962), and can be carried out by subjecting fat to an extraction operation of saponifiable and/or non-saponifiable parts.

It is well known that unsaponifiable fractions contain many components and their composition is generally not completely known. It is clear that the composition of the unsaponifiable fraction depends in particular on the method of its preparation, and above all on the extraction solvent used.

In addition, the fraction obtained also contains a small proportion of saponifiable components and is only a fraction enriched in unsaponifiable substances.

However, the unsaponifiable fraction used in the cosmetic oil of the present invention may be any of the unsaponifiable fractions extracted from the above-mentioned vegetable oils by the above-mentioned known methods.

As used herein, the term "unsaponifiable fraction" refers not only to previously extracted unsaponifiable fractions (or parts thereof);
It also includes fractions that are enriched in unsaponifiable components but still contain some of the saponifiable components of the feedstock. The proportion of unsaponifiable components in this kind of enriched fraction is
It exceeds 40% by weight.

When the unsaponifiable fraction is in the form of a mixture of two unsaponifiable fractions, such as the unsaponifiable fraction of soybean oil and the unsaponifiable fraction of avocado oil, the weight ratio between the two unsaponifiable fractions is 1/ 4 to 3/1, and preferably 2/1 for a mixture of unsaponifiable components of soybean oil and avocado oil.

Components other than the cosmetic oil in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are conventional components.

These cosmetic compositions are generally any cosmetic compositions containing oil. These compositions, the other ingredients they contain, their methods of preparation and application are well known to those skilled in the art. Generally, these compositions contain at least the cosmetic oil of the present invention.
Contains 10%.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may be in the form of fluid emulsions, lotions or thicker emulsions (creams).

These compositions include, for example, softening emulsions or creams, hand care emulsions or creams, makeup removal creams or emulsions, foundation bases,
Sunscreen emulsions or creams, artificial tanning emulsions or creams, antiperspirant emulsions or creams, shaving creams or foaming agents, pre-shave lotions, or infant skin care emulsions or creams.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention containing the above-mentioned cosmetic oil can be used in particular for coloring (lipstick in the narrow sense) or for preventing cracks, for applying around the eyes, and for other compositions such as facial cosmetics. It can be a thing.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention in the form of solutions are in particular sunscreen oils (which, in addition to cosmetic oils, contain sun filters that absorb ultraviolet radiation), hand oils, These include body oils, pre-shave and post-shave oils, and bath oils.

Generally, in these compositions in the form of solutions, the proportion of the cosmetic oils mentioned above can vary from 10 to 100%. In other cosmetic compositions of the invention, the cosmetic oil is generally present in a proportion of 10 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention generally contains at least one component such as a preservative, an antioxidant, a fragrance, and a coloring agent in addition to the cosmetic oil.

The following experiment was conducted for the purpose of verifying the good permeability of the cosmetic oil used in the present invention.

An equal amount of one of the following oils was applied to the skin of the back of a person's hand: First oil: Stirberry oil Second oil: Sunflower oil Third oil: Unsaponifiables (unsaponifiables of avocado oil 1) /3
+ unsaponifiable content of soybean oil 2/3) Fourth oil: 50:50 of soybean oil and sunflower oil
Mixture 5th oil: 50:50 mixture of sagebrush oil and unsaponifiables (oil 3rd) 6th oil: 50:50 mixture of sunflower oil and unsaponifiables (oil 3rd) 7th Oil: 1:1:1 mixture of bittersweet oil, sunflower oil and unsaponifiables (oil number 3).Each oil was applied to 8 subjects and the permeability of the applied oil ranged from 0 to 10. A score was given. Penetration was evaluated as follows: - Feel after application - Appearance after application - Penetration rate Each oil was rated by the test subject from 0 to 10, with a rating of 10 corresponding to very good penetration.

The average scores obtained are shown in the table below: Table 1 Oil number Average score 1 5.81 2 4.69 3 6.13 4 6.19 5 7.81 6 5.50 7 8.31 Analysis results of variance values applied to this experiment and
Student's test results show that the difference in scores between the 7th oil and the other oils is significant.

The same experiment as above (three panelists) was conducted using the following oils A to E.

Oil A: sunflower oil + bittersweet oil + avocado oil unsaponifiables (1:1:1) mixture) Oil B: sunflower oil + bittersweet oil + unsaponifiables (1:1:1) mixture (unsaponifiables: 1/ 2 Sunflower oil unsaponifiables + 1/2 corn oil unsaponifiables) Oil C: Sunflower oil + soybean oil + sunflower oil unsaponifiables (1:1:1) Mixture Oil D: Sunflower oil + soybean oil + unsaponifiables ( 1:1:1) mixture (unsaponifiable: 1/3 unsaponifiable portion of avocado oil + 2/3 unsaponifiable portion of soybean oil) Oil E: Sunflower oil The effects obtained with the above oils are shown in the table below.

Table 2 Oil Average Rating A 7 B 6.37 C 6.75 D 6.37 E 4.75 The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention and are not intended to limit it.

Examples of oils for cosmeticsExample A Wt.% bittersweet oil 33.3 Sunflower oil 33.3 Soybean oil unsaponifiable content 22.2 Avocado oil unsaponifiable content 11.2 Example B bittersweet oil 35 Sunflower oil 40 Avocado oil unsaponifiable content 25 Example C bittersweet oil 20 Sunflower oil 40 Avocado oil unsaponifiables 15 Soybean oil unsaponifiables 25 Example D Soybean oil 30 Sunflower oil 35 Avocado oil unsaponifiables 15 Soybean oil unsaponifiables 20 Example E Soybean oil 35 Sunflower oil 30 Avocado oil unsaponifiable Minutes 15 Soybean oil unsaponifiables 50 Example F Soybean oil 40 Sunflower oil 30 Avocado oil unsaponifiables 10 Soybean oil unsaponifiables 20 Example G Soybean oil 33.3 Sunflower oil 33.3 Corn oil unsaponifiables 17.0 Sunflower oil unsaponifiables 16.4 Example H Soybean oil 30 Sunflower oil 40 Unsaponifiables of corn oil 30 Example I Soybean oil 45 Sunflower oil 30 Unsaponifiables of sunflower oil 25 Example J Soybean oil 35 Sunflower oil 35 Pistachio oil 10 Unsaponifiables of avocado oil 20 Examples K Soybean oil 25 Sunflower oil 25 Avocado oil 25 Unsaponifiable content of avocado oil 25 Examples of cosmetic compositions 1 Body oil weight% Cosmetic oil of Example A 99.8 BHA (butyl hydroxyanisole) 0.1 BHT (butyl hydroxy) Toluene) 0.1 100 A similar body oil was obtained by replacing the cosmetic oil of Example A with that of Example G.

Sunscreen oil can also be made from this body oil by adding a sunlight filter (light agent) that absorbs ultraviolet rays.

These body oils or sunscreen oils can also contain fragrances.

Example 2 Sunscreen Oil Weight % Cosmetic Oil of Example A 94.8 BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole) 0.1 BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) 0.1 “Parsol Ultra” - Sunlight filter commercially available from GIVAUDAN 5.0 This sunscreen oil may also contain fragrance. In this embodiment, the cosmetic oil of Example A can advantageously be replaced by an equivalent amount of Example G or H.

Example 3 Emulsion for makeup removal Weight % Cosmetic oil of Example A 15.0 Glycerol stearate 2 Stearic acid 1.40 Triethanolamine 1.30 High molecular carboxy vinyl polymer commercially available from GOODRICH under the name Carbopol 93 0.60 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.25 BHA 0.10 BHT 0.10 Fragrance A similar emulsion for makeup removal was prepared by adding the required amount of sterile demineralized water and replacing the cosmetic oil of Example A with that of Example G.

Example 4 Body Emulsion Weight % Cosmetic oil of Example C 15.00 Mixture of alcohol and lanolin sterol (Amerchol L101 available from American Choresterol Products) 0.30 Stearic acid 1.40 Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 0.20 Triethanolamine 0.95 High-molecular carboxy-vinyl polymer commercially available from GOODRICH under the name Carbopol 93 0.25 Propylene glycol 2.00 BHA 0.10 BHT 0.10 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.35 Fragrance Add required amount of water 100 Cosmetics of Example C A similar body emulsion was obtained by replacing the oil with that of Example I.

Example 5 Care Cream Weight % Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate 5.0 Cosmetic oil of Example F 26.0 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.3 Carbopol 940 0.4 Triethanolamine 0.4 BHA 0.1 BHT 0.1 Fragrance Required amount Sterile demineralized water A similar care cream was obtained by substituting the cosmetic oil of Example F with that of Example H.

Example 6 Care cream wt% Magnesium lanophosphate 2.85 Lanolin alcohol 6.65 Cosmetic oil of Example J 48.30 Ozokerite 2.00 BHA 0.10 BHT 0.10 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.10 Add sterile demineralized water 100 In this example: Advantageously, the cosmetic oil of Example J can be replaced by an equivalent amount of that of Examples G, H or I.

Example 7 Sunscreen Cream Weight % Self-emulsifying glycerol monostearate 5.0 Cosmetic oil of Example H 26.0 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.3 Carbopol 940 0.4 Triethanolamine 0.4 BHA 0.1 BHT 0.1 Parsol Ultra commercially available from GIVAUDAN 5.0 Fragrance Add the required amount of sterile demineralized water 100 In this example, the cosmetic oil of Example H can advantageously be replaced by an equivalent amount of Example D, G or I.

Example 8 Sunscreen Cream Weight % Magnesium lanophosphate 2.85 Lanolin alcohol 6.65 Cosmetic oil of Example E 48.30 Ozokerite 2.00 BHA 0.10 BHT 0.10 Parsol Ultra commercially available from GIVAUDAN 5.00 Methyl parahydroxybenzoate 0.10 Sterile demineralized water added In this example, the cosmetic oil of Example E can advantageously be replaced by an equivalent amount of that of Example B, H or I.

Example 9 Foundation wt% Isopropyl lanolate 4.0 Stearic acid 2.6 Self-emulsifying glycol monostearate 5.0 Cosmetic oil of Example K 20.0 Triethanolamine 1.2 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.1 Bentonite 2.5 BHA 0.1 BHT 0.1 Parahydroxybenzoic acid Methyl Required amountFragrance Required amount Add demineralized water 100Other titanium oxide Iron oxide talc Required amount according to desired color and covering power In this example, the cosmetic oil of Example K is the same as that of Example G. It can be replaced with

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. 20 to 45% by weight of bittersweet oil, 25 to 40% by weight of sunflower oil, and 20 to 40% by weight of at least one nonsaponifiable fraction extracted in advance from soybean oil, avocado oil, corn oil, or sunflower oil. A cosmetic composition characterized by containing a cosmetic oil consisting of a mixture of. 2. A composition according to claim 1 in the form of an aqueous emulsion. 3. A composition according to claim 1 in the form of a solution. 4. The composition according to claim 1, which is in the form of a lipstick, a cosmetic composition to be applied around the eyes, or a facial cosmetic composition. 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which contains at least 10% by weight of the cosmetic oil. 6. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the cosmetic oil is present in a proportion of 10 to 15% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. 7. The composition according to claim 3, which contains 10 to 100% by weight of the cosmetic oil.