PL246355B1 - Shampoo - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the application is a shampoo that contains, as a care ingredient, from 0.01% to 85% by weight of an aqueous extract of grape pomace, obtained by the micellar extraction technique of ground red grape pomace in an extraction solution that contains, as exclusive ingredients, water, decyl glucoside and a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol. After mixing the grape pomace extract and the remaining ingredients, the shampoo contains, at least in part, from 29.5% to 99.499% by weight of water, from 0.001% to 30% by weight of decyl glucoside and from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol. Additionally, the shampoo contains from 1% to 5% by weight of sodium chloride, from 0.1% to 25% by weight of sodium alkyl sulphate, wherein the alkyl residues are derived from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, from 0% to 5% by weight of alkylamidopropyl betaine obtained from fatty acids present in coconut oil, from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight of citric acid, from 1% to 5% by weight of sodium chloride, from 0.001% to 5% by weight of quaternized guar gum.

Description

Description of the invention

The subject of the invention is a shampoo intended for washing the hair and scalp.

Commonly known shampoos in the art comprise 0.1 to 75 wt.% surfactants, 0.1 to 20 wt.% solubilizer and/or hydrotrope, 0.1 to 10 wt.% moisturizing and/or skin lubricating substances, 0.5 to 5 wt.% sequestrants, 0.05 to 3 wt.% perfumes, 0.01 to 0.5 wt.% preservatives, 0.1 to 4 wt.% viscosity modifiers, and 5 to 85 wt.% water.

As surfactants, compounds preferably from the groups of nonionic and/or anionic and/or amphoteric surfactants are used. As anionic surfactants, compounds from the groups of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, soaps, alkyl phosphates, alkyl sulfosuccinates or similar compounds slightly modified by attaching ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to them are used, as nonionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants from the groups of ethylene oxide adducts and/or adducts of a mixture of ethylene and propylene oxides to compounds containing in their structure an alkyl chain with a length of 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably ethoxylated and/or ethoxylated-propylene ethoxylated: fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of higher fatty acids, vegetable oils, sorbitan esters; alkyl polyglucosides; alkanolamides; and as amphoteric surfactants, compounds from the alkyl betaines and/or alkylamido betaines groups or similar compounds slightly modified by adding ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to them are used.

Ethyl alcohol and/or isopropyl alcohol and/or propylene glycol and/or butylene glycol and/or pentylene glycol and/or hexylene glycol butyl ether and/or butylene glycol propyl ether are used as solvents, and sodium cumenesulfonate and/or sodium toluenesulfonate and/or urea and/or phosphoric acid esters are used as hydrotropes.

Glycerin, sorbitol, glycols, polyglycols, amino acids, fatty derivatives or lanolin derivatives are used as moisturizing and/or lubricating substances.

Sequestrants are usually compounds derived from citric acid and/or phosphoric acid and/or lactic acid and/or gluconic acid and/or edetic acid.

Viscosity modifiers used include compounds from the group of inorganic salts, mainly sodium chloride and/or potassium chloride, polymeric compounds from the group of cellulose derivatives, mainly carboxymethylcellulose and/or hydroxyethylcellulose and/or hydroxypropylcellulose and/or methylcellulose and/or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, polymeric compounds from the group of polycarboxylates, mainly sodium polyacrylate or similar slightly chemically modified compounds, compounds from the group of minerals, mainly bentonites and/or hectorites and/or montmorillonites.

Manufacturing traditional shampoos most often involves preparing a premix of the viscosity modifier with some water and then adding and mixing the remaining components.

Shampoos that contain ingredients of natural origin are known from the state of the art.

Here, we can point out as an example the shampoo described in RU2723485C1, which contains cocamidopropyl betaine, coconut glucoside, glycerol oleate, water-alcoholic extract of rhubarb, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium chloride, cyclomethicone, allantoin, citric acid and distilled water. The shampoo does not cause allergies, is non-toxic, has anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects on the scalp.

Other shampoos are also based on plant-based raw materials, including the one described in CN106726869A, prepared from sodium lauroyl sulfate, sodium lauroyl amphoacetate, cocamidopropyl betaine, and natural extracts. The naturalness and non-irritating effect result from the synergistic effect of a mild surfactant and natural extracts from camellia seeds, ginkgo leaves, cordyceps and chamomile, provided that no irritating preservative is added.

Patent descriptions CN108056975A, CN105997695A indicate shampoos that are prepared from pure Chinese herbs including knotweed root, astragalus membranaceus, black soybean, mulberry bark, wolfberry, powdered green tea, chrysanthemum flower, black sesame and ginseng. The shampoos do not contain any chemical ingredients, are mild and non-irritating, can protect, nourish and blacken hair.

Shampoos containing grape seed extract are presented in patent descriptions CN113171317A, CN109125161A. Shampoos are safe to use, do not cause irritation and have antioxidant properties.

Methods of obtaining grape pomace extracts are described, among others, in US10485258B2, FR3096582A1 or E52406858B1. The most commonly used methods are solvent extraction, extraction in the presence of supercritical carbon dioxide and steam distillation.

The methods mentioned, however, require the use of various types of auxiliary substances (amphiphilic solvents, compressed carbon dioxide) or conducting the process at relatively high temperatures (steam distillation), which causes the destruction of bioactive substances. In the case of extraction using carbon dioxide in a supercritical state, the extract obtained has a very high viscosity, which during the production of cosmetics generates the need to heat the cosmetic mass or the need to use amphiphilic solvents. In all of the above cases, the bioactive substances contained in the extract are destroyed or undesirable auxiliary substances are introduced into the composition of the cosmetic. This prevents the full use of the health-promoting potential of grape pomace extracts in cosmetics.

An alternative to standard extraction procedures is micellar extraction. This method allows, by using an aqueous solution of a surfactant - a surface-active compound, to obtain a plant extract at low temperature. However, fully effective use of the mentioned method for selected plant material requires a specific composition of the extraction solution.

The problem remains the need to use additional components in the extraction medium, the presence of which in the target product is not justified and sometimes even undesirable (e.g. Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, ethyl alcohol, glycol, glycerin or isopropyl myristate).

A shampoo containing natural origin agents with a care and washing effect and auxiliary agents is characterized in that it contains, as an agent with a care effect, reducing the irritation potential and indirectly influencing the limitation of skin drying after the washing process and imparting a red color to the preparation, from 0.01 to 85% by weight of an aqueous extract of red grape pomace containing plant ingredients and obtained by the micellar extraction technique, wherein from 1 to 30% by weight of ground red grape pomace is subjected to the action of the extraction solution, and the extraction solution contains, as exclusive ingredients, from 64.5 to 98.89% by weight of water, from 0.1 to 4% by weight of decyl glucoside and from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol as a preservative. Water acts as a solvent, and decyl glucoside as a surfactant. The ingredients used in the extraction solution are also the target ingredients of the cosmetic, so there is no need for additional purification of the extract obtained, nor the risk that undesirable substances will be introduced into it. The ingredients used in the extraction solution are fully transferred to the extract along with the extracted plant ingredients. After mixing the red grape pomace extract with the remaining agents included in the shampoo, the shampoo contains at least partially derived from the extract:

- from 29.5 to 99.499 wt.% water, from 0.001 to 30 wt.% decyl glucoside as a substance with a washing action and from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.% of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol, and additionally

- from 0.1 to 25 wt.% of sodium alkyl sulfate, wherein the alkyl residues are derived from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, from 0 to 5 wt.% of alkylamidopropyl betaine obtained from fatty acids present in coconut oil, from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.% of citric acid as a pH regulator, from 1 to 5 wt.% of sodium chloride as a viscosity modifier, from 0.001 to 5 wt.% of quaternized guar gum (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) as a cationic polymer facilitating combing and preventing electrification of hair. Sodium alkyl sulfate and alkylamidopropyl betaine are used as washing agents.

The composition of the extraction solution is based solely on the ingredients intended for the production of the final preparation and has been selected in such a way that it is possible to obtain appropriate aggregates (micelles) in the volume phase, ensuring the possibility of effective leaching of cosmetically valuable ingredients from the plant material. The extract obtained is composed solely of ingredients intended for the production of the final preparation and is intended for direct use in cosmetics intended for hygiene. Immediately after the process is completed, the extract is added to the cosmetic mass. Apart from substances isolated from the plant material, no other additional substances (e.g. alcohols, glycols or unnecessary surface-active compounds) are introduced into the cosmetic mass. The micellar extraction itself is carried out at room temperature (up to a maximum of 30°C). The relatively low temperature of the process does not cause degradation of the active plant ingredients and therefore does not reduce or eliminate their advantages. The grape pomace extract obtained by this method is characterized by high naturalness, does not contain amphiphilic solvents and is microbiologically clean. It is an optimal ingredient of shampoo, giving the preparation a red color, soothes allergic reactions, has anti-inflammatory effects, protects the skin from free radicals, reduces irritation potential and indirectly affects the reduction of skin drying after the washing process. Additionally, the shampoo is characterized by very good foaming and rheological properties.

The subject of the invention is presented in detail in the embodiment examples.

Example 1

In the first stage of manufacturing the shampoo according to the invention, an extraction solution was prepared which contained 97.5% by weight of distilled water as a solvent, 2% by weight of decyl glucoside as a surface-active compound, allowing the formation of aggregates (micelles) in the bulk phase of the extraction solution, thus enabling the leaching of bioactive substances of a hydrophobic nature from grape pomace, and 0.5% by weight of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol as a preservative (Euxyl K903). Red grape pomace was introduced into the extraction solution in a weight ratio of extraction solution: pomace equal to 9:1. The extraction was carried out at room temperature (not exceeding 30°C), with vigorous stirring for 3 hours. After the extraction process was completed, the solids remaining after grape pomace were removed by centrifugation, and an aqueous extract of red grape pomace was obtained, ready to be introduced into the shampoo. The extract, apart from the extracted plant components, contained all the components of the extraction solution in unchanged quantities. The shampoo was then prepared by mixing the extract obtained in this way as a substance giving the preparation a red color, soothing allergic reactions, having anti-inflammatory effects, protecting the skin from the effects of free radicals, reducing the irritation potential and indirectly influencing the reduction of hand skin drying after the washing process with the remaining ingredients of the shampoo. The aforementioned extract in the amount of 60% by weight was mixed with 5.0% by weight of sodium alkyl sulphate, in which the alkyl residues came from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil - as the basic compound with washing action, 1.5% by weight of alkylamidopropyl betaine obtained from coconut fatty acids as an auxiliary compound with a cleansing action, 3.0% by weight of decyl glucoside as an auxiliary compound with a cleansing action, 0.315% by weight of citric acid to obtain a pH value of the preparation equal to 5.5, and 0.05% by weight of quaternized guar gum (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) as a cationic polymer facilitating combing and preventing frizz, 1.6% by weight of sodium chloride as a viscosity modifier, and 0.5% by weight of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol as a preservative (Euxyl K903). The rest of the mixture was water. The shampoo obtained in this way had the following physicochemical and functional properties: stability in load and thermal tests, colour in shades of red - L*a*b* parameters, respectively: 17.20; 18.75 and 20.76 (shampoo without extract had: 34.30; -1.04 and -1.21 respectively, the colour difference ΔΕ between shampoo with extract and shampoo without extract was 34.1), skin hydration level after 2 hours from washing process - increase by 1.85% compared to skin not subjected to washing process (analogous shampoo without grape pomace extract caused hydration decrease to level - 2.80% compared to skin not subjected to washing process - in this case drying effect was demonstrated), irritation potential (zein number) 210 mg N / 100 ml (shampoo without grape pomace extract - value 262 mg N / 100 ml). Out of 20 people using shampoo with extract, 18 noticed care effect.

Example 2

In the first stage of manufacturing the shampoo according to the invention, an extraction solution was prepared which contained 97.5 wt.% distilled water, 2 wt.% decyl glucoside and 0.5 wt.% of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol (Euxyl K903). Red grape pomace was added to the extraction solution in a weight ratio of extraction solution: pomace of 8:2. The extraction was carried out at room temperature (up to max.

30°C), stirring vigorously for 3 hours. After the extraction process was completed, the solid parts remaining from the grape pomace were removed by centrifugation, and an aqueous extract of red grape pomace was obtained in this way, ready for introduction to the shampoo. The extract, apart from the extracted plant components, contained all the components of the extraction solution in unchanged amounts. The shampoo was then prepared by mixing the extract obtained in this way with the remaining agents included in the shampoo. The said extract in an amount of 60% by weight was mixed with 5.0% by weight of sodium alkyl sulphate, in which compound the alkyl residues came from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, 1.5% by weight of alkylamidopropyl betaine obtained from fatty acids from coconut oil; 3.0% by weight of decyl glucoside; 0.315% by weight of citric acid, allowing to obtain a pH value of the preparation equal to 5.5; as well as 0.05% wt. of quaternized guar gum (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), 1.6% wt. of sodium chloride and 0.5% wt. of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol (Euxyl K903). The rest of the mixture was water. The shampoo with the given composition had the following physicochemical and functional properties: stability in load and thermal tests, colour in shades of red - L*a*b* parameters, respectively: 10.22; 15.22 and 10.32 (shampoo without extract had: 34.30; -1.04 and -1.21 respectively, the colour difference ΔΕ between shampoo with extract and shampoo without extract was 31.3), skin hydration level after 2 hours from washing process - increase by 2.00% compared to skin not subjected to washing process (similar shampoo without grape pomace extract caused hydration decrease to level - 2.80% compared to skin not subjected to washing process - in this case drying effect was demonstrated), irritation potential (zein number) 200 mg N / 100 ml (shampoo without grape pomace extract - value 262 mg N / 100 ml). Out of 20 people using shampoo with extract, 18 noticed care effect.

Claims (1)

1. A shampoo containing natural origin agents with a care and washing effect and auxiliary agents, characterized in that it contains, as an agent with a care effect, reducing the irritation potential and indirectly influencing the limitation of skin drying after the washing process and imparting a red shade to the preparation, from 0.01 to 85% by weight of an aqueous extract of red grape pomace, in which extracted plant components are present and obtained by the micellar extraction technique, wherein from 1 to 30% by weight of ground red grape pomace is treated with an extraction solution which contains, as exclusive ingredients, from 64.5 to 98.89% by weight of water, from 0.1 to 4% by weight of decyl glucoside and from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol such that, after mixing the red grape pomace extract and the other agents, the shampoo contains derived at least in part from the extract: - from 29.5 to 99.499 wt.% water, from 0.001 to 30 wt.% decyl glucoside as a substance with a washing action and from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.% of a mixture of benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, dehydroacetic acid and tocopherol, and additionally - from 0.1 to 25 wt.% of sodium alkyl sulfate, wherein the alkyl residues are derived from fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, from 0 to 5 wt.% of alkylamidopropyl betaine obtained from fatty acids present in coconut oil, from 0.01 to 1.5 wt.% of citric acid, from 1 to 5 wt.% of sodium chloride, from 0.001 to 5 wt.% of quaternized guar gum (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride).