TW200427896A - Process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types with one or more dyes. The process according to the invention is characterized in that the mixture contains a portion of cationized cellulosic fibres. Furthermore, the invention relates to fibre blends obtainable by the process according to the invention.

Description

200427896 〇). Description of the invention [Technical field to which the invention belongs] The present invention relates to a method and a fiber mixture for dyeing a mixture of two or more different types of fibers. [Prior art]

It is known to process fiber mixtures from different sources to make fabrics such as woven or knitted fabrics. In addition, it is known to achieve color effects in fabrics by using fibers or yarns dyed in different ways. With this, the starting materials (ie, fibers or yarns) used to make fabrics must usually be dyed with different dyes to achieve the desired effect in the fabric, which is quite labor-intensive. In particular, when manufacturing a so-called denim fabric, the warp yarn must be dyed in the exhaust dyeing method in an indigo dyeing method (that is, the finished cloth cannot be dyed conveniently).

This problem is particularly noticeable when using dimensional vitamins (such as viscose, lyoce 11 fibers) and cotton fibers. The object of the present invention is to propose a method for dyeing two or more different fiber types with one or more dyes, whereby the method can overcome those disadvantages. [Summary] This object can be achieved by the method of the present invention, which is characterized in that the mixture contains a part of cationized cellulose fibers. It has been known that 'using cationized cellulose fibers, various problems related to the color effect of fabrics can be solved, or new possibilities can be opened, especially: • Use only One dye can get different color intensity (differential dyeing) between two fiber types (cationized cellulose fiber and others, especially cellulose, fiber) • Mixed colors when dyed with several dyes, As a result, different fiber types are colored differently or not by the dyes used. • Dyeing procedures are accelerated when dyeing a mixture of cationized cellulose fibers and synthetic fibers (such as polyester or polyamide fibers). [Embodiment] Cationized cellulose fibers have been known. Cationic group-doped fibers are particularly preferred for use in the method of the present invention. Such fibers are prepared by adding a cationic agent which is stable in each process to the spinning fiber blend used to make the fiber or to the precursor of the spinning fiber blend. In addition, it is known that cationized cellulose fibers have special color properties different from non-cationized cellulose fibers. Cationized viscose fibers, i.e. fibers made by the viscose method with cationic groups, are particularly preferred for use in the method according to the present invention. The production of cationized cellulose fibers is known and described, for example, JP-A 61-258801, JP-A 52-26561, JP-A 2-274738, EP-A 0 6 8 3 25 1, EP- In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, A 0 690 1 6 6 or W 0 9 6/2 6 2 2 0 0, the mixture contains a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers. The non-cationized cellulose-6- (3) (3) 200427896 fiber may be selected from standard viscose fiber, modal fiber, Lyocell fiber, cotton fiber and linen fiber. Because the coloring properties of cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers change, an interesting color effect can be achieved in a simple manner, that is, when colored with only one dye. The method according to the invention is effective when the mixture is dyed with direct and / or reactive dyes. Cationized cellulose fibers (especially cationized viscose fibers) are colored more strongly with direct and reactive dyes than non-cationized cellulose fibers. Surprisingly, the achievable color mixing effect is therefore particularly related to the salt concentration used for dyeing (less closely related to pH and temperature during dyeing). The dye concentration in the batch is also important. The higher the dye concentration, the smaller the difference in color depth between the fibers. When dyeing with direct dyes, the color mixing effect is particularly obvious at low salt concentrations of 3 to 5 g / l. On the contrary, at higher salt concentrations (up to 25 g / l), the color depth of the cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibers is almost the same. When dyeing with reactive dyes, the salt concentration is as high as 20 g / l The effect of color mixing is particularly noticeable. At higher salt concentrations up to 80 g / l, the color depth of the cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibers is almost the same. In addition, when using modal fibers or cotton fibers as the non-cationized cellulose fibers, the phase Compared with the standard viscose fiber or Lyocell fiber, -7- (4) (4) 200427896 has a stronger color mixing effect. An interesting effect is also obtained when a mixture of cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers is dyed with two different reactive dyes. In this case, the dyeing may be performed first with a reactive fiber under the condition that only the cationized cellulose fiber is colored. After that, a second reactive dye is added and dyed under conditions that the cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers are colored. Another characteristic of the method according to the invention is that the mixture is dyed with wool dyes and at least one other dye, in particular direct dyes and / or reactive dyes. In this embodiment, it is particularly suitable to use a fiber mixture containing cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers. Those skilled in the art know that wool dyes tend to dye wool and polyamides. It has acid dyes, metallized dyes and acid reactive dyes. The use of metallized dyes as wool dyes is particularly preferred. Non-cationized cellulose fibers in a mixture of cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers cannot be colored with a wool dye 'The cationized cellulose fibers can be colored with a wool dye. A second dye (preferably a direct dye or a reactive dye) is used under appropriate dyeing conditions to color the non-cationized cellulose fibers. This second dye also colored at least a portion of the cationized cellulose fibers. So, on the one hand, it causes color mixing between cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibers. On the other hand, the use of wool dyes and competitive dyeing methods including the first dye also caused color mixing in the cationized cellulose fibers themselves (5) 200427896. When the dye used is a metallized dye, it has proven advantageous to use Lyocell fibers as the non-cationized cellulose fibers in the mixture, since the fibers are dyed at least by the metallized dye. Another preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention is characterized in that the vitamin mixture contains a portion of non-cellulosic fibers. Here, in particular, polyester fibers (PES) or polyamide fibers (PA) for the same application are used. In this way, a combination of two components (cationized cellulose fibers / synthetic | or three components (cationized cellulose fibers / non-cationized plain fibers / synthetic fibers) is advantageous. It can be seen, for example, The mixture of cationized cellulose fibers and polyester fibers is dyed with reactive dyes under reactive dyeing conditions, and the dyeing room will be greatly reduced. Here, the effects that can be achieved are related to different parameters and types of dye components used. The following The attached table lists the dyeing temperature and the effects of P Η 値 according to the embodiments of the present invention. To maintain those, to be indifferent) The method of fiber dimension is related to (6) 200427896 Schedule 1 cationic Behavior of cellulose and non-cationized cellulose during competitive dyeing period Cationized cellulose Non-cationized cellulose Cationized cellulose Non-cationized cellulose Dyeing temperature T = 80-90 ° CT = 80 -90〇CT = 110-130 ° CT = 110-130 ° C Wool dye fully dyed unstained fully dyed unstained (metallized dye) Direct dye fully dyed from slightly dyed Completely stained from slightly stained to completely unstained, depending on the salt concentration depending on the salt concentration. Reactive dyes completely stained from moderately stained and completely stained from slightly stained to completely stained. Salt concentration depends on salt concentration

Behavior of cationized cellulose and polyamide during competitive dyeing Cationized cellulose polyamine Cationized cellulose polyamine pH 値 4 to 5 4 to 6 9 to 11 9 to 11 Wool dyes from Slightly dyed Completely dyed Completely dyed From slightly dyed to (metallized dye) to completely incompletely unstained -10- (7) (7) 200427896 The table specifically shows that cationized and uncationized cellulose fibers In the mixture, the coloring behavior is lower than 100 ° C higher or lower than the dyeing temperature. This fiber mixture can be dyed in the form of a yarn or a portion of a yarn 'or separately in the form of a fabric or a portion of a fabric. By indigo dyeing method to achieve the desired indigo effect of yarn fabrics. To continuously dye indigo on cellulose fibers, a multi-stage method must be used. It must be dyed, that is, it is not convenient to dye the finished cloth. In particular, it is known that mixed fabrics made of cationized cellulose fibers, polyester fibers, and cotton fibers can be dyed without the need for multi-stage indigo dyeing and to achieve a unique indigo effect on the finished fabric. In addition, a unique and selective mixing effect can be achieved. The cloth made from the blended fabric dyed in this way has better weather resistance, and a softer and more comfortable touch can be obtained. In addition, it has better wash resistance than standard indigo products. The hybrid coloration achievable by the method of the present invention has good reproducibility. In addition, the present invention relates to a fiber mixture obtainable by the method of the present invention. In addition, the present invention particularly relates to a fiber mixture containing a portion of cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers. The fibers are colored with the same direct dye and / or reactive dye, and the color strength of the cationized cellulose fiber portion and the non-cationized cellulose fiber portion are different. -11-(8) (8) 200427896 As mentioned above, the degree of coloring can be controlled, especially by selecting the salt concentration used in the dyeing method. This embodiment of the fiber mixture of the present invention is preferably characterized in that the difference in color strength of the cationized cellulose fiber and the non-cationized cellulose fiber is 5 to 50 C IE L A B units according to the measurement method described below. Other preferred embodiments of the present invention relate to a fiber mixture containing a portion of cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers. The fiber mixture is characterized in that a portion of the cationized cellulose fibers are colored with wool dye, At least a portion of any of them is colored with another dye, especially a direct dye and / or a reactive dye, and a portion of the non-cationized fibers are colored only with the other dye. As previously mentioned, interesting color effects can be achieved in a simple manner with such a fiber mixture. Fibers selected from standard viscose fibers, modal fibers, Lyo cell fibers, cotton fibers and linen fibers can be used as non-cationized cellulose fibers. In the fiber mixture according to the present invention, the cationized cellulose fiber is preferably a cationic group. In addition, the 'cationized cellulose fiber is preferably a cationized viscose fiber. The fiber mixture according to the present invention preferably contains a portion of non-cellulosic fibers (e.g., polyester fibers or polyamide fibers). A particularly preferred embodiment of the fiber mixture according to the present invention is the application to a denim fabric. Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. -12- 200427896 0) All the cationized viscose fibers mentioned in the following examples were prepared according to the method described in WO 96/26220. Example 1 A mixture of standard viscose fibers and cationized viscose fibers at a dyeing temperature of 80 ° C to contain 2% (relative to 200 g fabric, 600 ml batch) dye (Sirius Rubin K-2BL-direct Dyes, manufacturer Messrs.DyStar)

And nonionic wetting agent in a dye bath at different salt concentrations (N a2 S Ο 4). The brightness of the colored viscose fibers and the cationic viscose fibers were measured according to the following measurement method:

The CIELAB whiteness of the fiber was measured according to the following method: The fiber color coordinates according to Rx, Ry, and Rz were measured according to DIN 61 74 and DIN 5 03 3 at a light source D64 and an observation angle of 10 °. From those color coordinates, the CIE whiteness and the color points in the red / green axis are calculated according to DIN 5 5 9 8 1 (= according to the color shift of Gartner / Griesser), which is calculated as follows: CIE whiteness: W = Y + 800 * (x〇-x) + 1 700 (y〇-y) Color point (= dark): T = 900 * (x〇-x) -65 0 * (y〇-y) (Note: T negative = Lighter red 'T positive = lighter green) Y ... standard color for green sensitivity (Ry. · Green reflection) x〇, yQ ... standard color without color point (at D 6 5 / 10 °, the following is valid: x〇 = 0.3138; y〇 = 〇.JJl0) χ, y ... The standard color of the sample is calculated according to the following: • 13- (10) (10) 200427896 xX / (X + Υ + Z) yY / (X + Y + Z) ζ = 1-χ-y The standard 値 x, γ, ζ appearing in these formulas are calculated from the reflection 値 (= filter 値), the light source D65, Rx, Ry, Rz at an observation angle of 10 ° are according to the following formula: X 2 0.94 8 1 1 * RX Y = Ry

Z = 1.073 04 * RZ The following table lists the difference in CIELAB brightness between the two dyed fiber types-this is related to the salt concentration used: Table 2 Salt concentration (g / l) Brightness difference (CIELAB unit) 2 10 5 7 10 6 20 4.5 Example 2 The fabric contains -14- (11) (11) 200427896 • Cationized viscose fiber • Low cellulosic Lyocell fiber (, LyOCell LF "type, manufacturer

Lenzing AG) and Modal Fiber (manufacturer Lenzing AG), which uses two types of dyes (direct dyes (Sirius dyes, manufacturers

Messrs. DyStar) and metallized dye (Isolan dye ' manufacturer Mes s r s · D y S t a r) dye bath dyeing. The following standards are maintained: Liquid ratio: 10 grams of fabric relative to 600 ml of batch non-ionic wetting agent salt content: 10 g / l pH 値: 7 Dyeing temperature: 80T: Dyeing time: 45 minutes to contain Batch dyeing of the following dyes: _; i • 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.15% Isolan dark blue 2S-GL 01 • 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.4% Isolan dark blue 2S-GL 01 • 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.8% Isolan dark blue 2S-GL 01 • 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0,4% Isolan bordeaux R 220% • 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.8% Isolan bordeaux R 220% • 2 , 0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.8% Sirius turquoise GL 01

• 2,0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.8% Isolan grey S-GL • 1.0% Sirius blue K-GRL; 1.5% Isolan yellow K-GLN 250% • 1.0% Sirius blue K-GRL; 0.5% Isolan yellow K -GLN 250% • 1.0% Sirius blue K-GRL; 1.0% Isolan scarlet K-GLS 150% • 1.0% Sirius blue K-GRL; 0.5% Isolan scarlet K-GLS 150%

• 1,0% Sirius blue K-GRL; L5 ° / 〇Isolan grey S-GS • 1.5% Sims scarlet K-CF; 1,0% Isolan yellow K-GLN 250% • 1.5% Sirus scarlet IC-CF; 0.5 % Isolan yellow K-GLN 250%

• 1.5% Sirus scarlet K-CF; 0.8% Isolan olive SG -15- (12) (12) 200427896

• 1.5% Sirus scarlei K-CF; 0.2% Isolan olive SG • 1.5% Sirus scarlei K-CF; 0.15% Isolan dark blue 2S-GL 01

• 1.5% Sirus scarlet K-CF; 1.5% Isolan grey S-GL In all examples, non-cationized cellulose fibers (Lyocell or Modal respectively) are colored with dyes other than direct dyes; in addition, cationized viscose fibers Coloring with metal dyes, whereby depending on the color and concentration of the dyes used, mixed coloring can be controlled over a wide range of cationic fibers. These mixed colors (ie, the color difference between the cationized viscose fibers and other cellulose fibers) create an interesting effect in fabrics containing these two fibers and dyed with the aforementioned dyes. Similar results were observed with similar experiments involving fabrics made of cationized viscose and cotton fibers. Example 3 Striped socks (1 cm cationized viscose fibers and 1 cm Lyocell fibers are alternated) and dyed with the following dye mixture: 3a) 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.15% Isolan dark blue 2S-GL 01 3b) 2.0 % Sirius yellow K-GRL; 0.4% Isolan bordeaux R 220% The striped area of the dyed striped socks has a distinctly different color. In Example 3a), the Lyo cell fiber portions were dyed yellow; the cationized viscose fiber portions had green mixed colors (derived from yellow direct dyeing -16- (13) (13) 200427896 dye and blue wool dye). In Example 3b), the Lyo cell fiber portion was dyed yellow; the cationized viscose fiber portion had orange / red mixed colors (derived from yellow direct dye and red wool dye). In addition, • Knitting socks made from cationized viscose fibers and Lyocell fibers (Nm50 / 1) • twisted yarn (Nm50 / 2) (mixture of cationized viscose fibers and Lyocell fibers) (transverse yarn) and modal Fiber (warp yarn) to produce twill 3/1 • twisted yarn (Nm50 / 2) (mixture of cationized viscose fiber and Lyocell fiber) (transverse yarn) and modal fiber (warp yarn) to produce cross stitch fabric It is dyed with the aforementioned dye mixture to get interesting color effects. In all cases, the resulting mixed color can be successfully reproduced, i.e., repeated experiments yield substantially the same dyeing results. Example 4 A knitted fabric made of twisted yarn (containing cationized viscose and cotton fibers in a ratio of 50/50) and PES filaments under dyeing conditions for PES fibers (ie, 13 (TC), Dye a mixture of dyes (including metallized and disperse dyes) in the dyeing bath, and then dye at 90 ° C with direct dyes at a salt concentration of 7 g / l. The dyeing procedure is as follows:

• Initial time: temperature 50 ° C, dye bath; metallized dye + disperse dye; 20 g / L sodium acetate, dispersant; Setam〇i NS -17- (14) (14) 200427896

• Heat to 1 3 0 ° c • Dry 3 to 4 5 minutes • Cool to 50 ° C • Add dye directly to the dye bath '7 g / L of salt • Heat to 9 0 ° C • Dye for 30 minutes • Cool the following dyes: 4a) 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL (direct dye); 0.4% Isolan bordeaux R220% (metallized dye) 4b) 2.0% Sirius yellow K-GRL (direct dye); 0.8% Supranol turquoise GGL (metal complex; manufacturer: Messrs. Dy S tar) selected black disperse dye (Dianix Schwarz CC, manufacturer: Messrs. Dy Star) as the disperse dye for PES fibers. As a result, fabrics with interesting mixed colors are obtained, in which the PES filaments are dyed black by disperse dyes; the cationic viscose fibers are mixed dyed by metallizing dyes and direct dyes; cotton fibers are dyed only by direct dyes. Example 5 In order to achieve the butyl cloth effect, a fabric composed of a mixture (warp yarn) of cationized viscose fiber and PES fiber (60/40) and cotton fiber (transverse yarn) was dyed 'this is as described in Example 4 Prior to the dyeing conditions used for pe S fibers, it is dyed with a dye mixture composed of disperse dyes and metallized dyes. -18- (15) (15) 200427896 If the disperse dye and metal dye are used in the same shade, the sample dyed in this way is equivalent to the butyl cloth produced by the standard indigo dyeing method. The use of different shades produces color mixing, and standard techniques for indigo staining are labor-intensive and expensive. After that, after PES staining, more samples were stained with direct dye in the same dye bath. Thereby, the cotton component can be dyed in the same dyeing method. The aforementioned one-hour competitive staining method in a single bath can be regarded as an interesting alternative to the labor-intensive and technically demanding indigo staining method. In addition, according to the dyeing method of the present invention for producing a dannib effect, since it is not necessary to be dyed in advance, it provides excellent flexibility, and thus can be quickly and efficiently adjusted to market quantities. -19-

Claims (1)

(1) (1) 200427896 Patent application scope 1. A method for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fiber types with one or more dyes, characterized in that the mixture contains a part of cationized cellulose fibers. 2. The method of claim 1 in which the cationized cellulose fibers are doped with cationic groups. 3. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cationized cellulose fibers are cationized viscose fibers. 4. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture contains a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers. 5. The method according to item 1 or 2 of the patent application, wherein the mixture is dyed with direct dyes and / or reactive dyes. 6. The method according to item 5 of the patent application, wherein the dyeing with direct dyeing is performed at a salt concentration of 2 to 25 g / l (preferably 3 to 5 g / l). 7. The method according to item 5 of the patent application, wherein dyeing with reactive dyes includes operation at a salt concentration of up to 80 g / l (preferably less than 20 g / l). 8. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture is dyed with wool dyes and at least one other dye (especially direct dyes and / or reactive dyes). 9. A method as claimed in claim 8 wherein the wool dye is a metallized dye. 10. The method of claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixture -20- (2) (2) 200427896 contains a portion of non-cellulosic fibers. 11. The method according to the scope of the application for a patent or item 2, wherein the fiber mixture is dyed in the form of a yarn or a part of a yarn, respectively, or in the form of a fabric or a part of a fabric, respectively. 12. The method according to item 11 of the scope of patent application, wherein the fiber mixture is dyed in the form of a fabric so as to achieve a dyneib effect. 13. A fiber blend ' which is obtainable from a method according to any one of the foregoing patent applications. 1 4 · A fiber mixture comprising a portion of cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers, characterized in that a portion of the cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of the non-cationized fibers are colored with the same dye, and A portion of the cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of the non-cationized fibers have different color strengths. 15. The fiber mixture according to item 14 of the patent application, wherein the difference in color strength is 5 to 50 CIELAB units. 1 6 · A fiber mixture comprising a portion of cationized cellulose fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulose fibers, characterized in that a portion of the cationized cellulose fibers is colored with wool dyes, and at least a portion of any is dyed with other dyes (Especially direct dyes and / or reactive dyes), and a portion of the non-cationized fibers are colored only by the other dyes. 17. The fiber mixture according to any one of claims 14 to 16 in the scope of patent application, wherein the cationized cellulose fiber is doped with a cationic group. 18. The fiber mixture according to any one of claims 14 to 16 in the scope of patent application, wherein the cationized cellulose fiber is a cationized viscose fiber-21-(3) 200427896 19. As the scope of patent application, the first The fiber mixture according to any one of items 4 to 16, wherein the mixture contains a portion of non-cellulose fibers. 20. The fiber mixture according to any one of claims 14 to 16 in the scope of patent application, wherein it is supplied in the form of a denim fabric. -22- 200427896 柒, (1), the designated representative of this case is: None (二), the representative symbols of the elements in this case are simply explained: No, if there is a chemical formula in this case, please reveal the chemical formula that can best show the characteristics of the invention: no